Has anyone else had to figure out the travel switch on deere excavator made by hitachi I have two sets of wires that it may have plugged into: a blue with small red stripe with a red with small green stripe. these seem to come off a larger harness then a blue with yellow stripe and a black. The black is definitely a ground because when I put a meter on it and the pos on the batt I get 12 volts the same with the blue yellow and ground. I was told by a tech that these were the two that connect to the switch. But I don't see how the switch would work by putting two wires together with opposite polarity.
Would that be the Propel speed switch? Maybe a picture of the switch.
If it is the propel speed switch look at switch S8 in the wiring diagram.
here is the switch it is foot activated, basically there is nothing left of it. The bottom did have connectors but that part fell off thats where the wires connect to
It had two connections, I'm not sure if you had to hold it down with your foot to work or what. The Tech told my it is fused with the horn and that does work.
Yes you have to hold down the switch to be in high speed. The switch supplies the ground for the two speed solenoid (see schematic). And yes the two speed gets it's "juice" from the horn fuse.
Thanks mg2361! I understand this schematic much better!
I'm still trying to get my propel 2 speed working. I have continuity from the blue yellow from the switch to the solenoid. When I disconnect it and run power from the battery to the solenoid I don't hear it accuating , should I hear something or how else can I test the solenoid?
Yes you should hear or feel a small click. Check the resistance of the solenoid. The solenoid should measure 10-15 ohms of resistance. Also run a separate ground wire to make sure you do not have a bad ground.
I checked the resistance, it was 12 ohms. When I ran power and ground directly to the red and black wires on sollenoid it woulds spark but I heard nothing. I took the nut off and pulled it apart. It just slid off the spool. I don't know if the spool is jammed up or the outer solenoid could be faulty see pics
You may or may not here a clicking sound. The ohms sound ok but some digital meters do not measure coils well. Be careful not to over tighten the nut holding the coil on. The center tube it mounts on appears study but are ultra thin stainless or alu and get damaged easily. In side that tube is a iron slug which is drawn magnetically up into the center of that coil. If you use a piece of iron like a big screw driver and place it near the hole in the coil it should get pulled in to the coil when energized. Only test for short duration because the coil will over heat without a iron plug inside the coil when energized. If the coil is doing that the problem is within the solenoid or fluid flow. A bent or dented tube will cause probs, a particle of debris around the slug in the tube will cause probs. The slug is often connected to a very fine needle valve which can become blocked. I see a little corrosion around the top of tube, was it hard to pull off. These tubes are as thin as razor blades so if the coil over heats or corrosion gets in there they often crush the tube often to small to see with the eye but enough to inhibit the movement of the internal slug. Just some things to check, hope this helps Cheers
Slide coil back onto stem. Apply 12 volt to coil. Touch stem top with screwdriver. If coil is good, you will feel the screwdriver stick to stem.
Thanks guys! Yes the coil slid off easily, The coil does magnetize when I apply current to it. Can I take apart the stem? The stem seems very tight and sturdy, I didn't know if it is threaded in or what.
Yes you can. See cutaway picture I attached.
Thanks MG!
Update: I got the tube off that the solenoid slips onto, it unscrewed. there is a small indent in the tip where the spool gets pulled into. The spool was stuck but I managed to get it out with some small needle nose vise grips. after a little cleaning and polishing I got it to bounce in and out against the spring like it it supposed to. I wired a toggle switch up but still no 2nd speed. So I guess I may either try a new solenoid or deal with going 1mph less while traveling lol! See pics
Its blowing the fuse now when I flip the switch. The dealer says these things are $170. I'm not sure if it is bad or not.
Test it! It may be wire and you will waste $170! Ohm it first - if you have next to nothing on resistance - it’s shorted. Also test it for short chassis ground
its fried
Wondering if this issue ever was resolved? I’m having the same problem so far