Have a JD 310 with I think a reverser problem. The numbers on the plate are Type : 310-D serial: 218483T which do not seem to match anything. The painted number on the machine is just 310. I can not find a separate hydraulic oil dip stick or fill for the reverser system? Seems to be all mechanical linkage. Have the two large filter cans underneath, one vertical one horizontal. Do not know where to start on researching the possible area for the reverser failure. All other hydraulics work fine just no fwd or rev. Any help appreciated.
Could you post a picture of the plate you got the information from ?
Think it is here attached below.? This plate is on the right hand side of the frame front end of machine. There is another one on the backhoe attachment that reads Type 9405 S/N 024937T
Welcome to HEF Spinone ! That is a straight 310 backhoe. The dipstick for the transmission/reverser/hydraulics is below the seat behind your feet. First thing you need to do is check the oil level.
Have checked that it is fine. Was concerned that I could not find another one and all the posts I read on here said that the reverser had a separate oil system. The oil on the dip stick is clear. Is one of the can filters for the reverser system only? All I have for this machine is a 80 page general information manual, which is no help.
I don't think that plate in the photo you posted is the tractor id and serial number. I did a search in my John Deere account and that serial number is not a tractor serial number. The result was----> invalid number it must have 13 digits.
That is the only plate on the tractor, the one on the backhoe is the same format with the information I previously posted. It is only a two wheel drive unit..
That is the plate on the older stuff.
Vertical one is the transmission, horizontal one is the hydraulic. The suction screen is under the fitting that is connected to the hydraulic filter with a short rubber hose. Since your hydraulics work fine, I would check your clutch linkage rod that goes from the pedal across to the transmission control valve. There is a pin that connects the two and it likes to fall out part way, or wear a sloppy hole in the shaft. If that is OK, check your clutch adjustment. Proper clutch adjustment is with the clutch pedal stop down, depress the pedal to the stop. Then adjust the clutch fork shaft rod until the throwout bearing contacts the clutch pressure plate fingers, then shorten the clutch fork rod by 2-1/2 turns. Check your shift linkage to make sure it is functioning correctly and moving the spool. Then you need to acquire the tech manual TM1036.
Thanks for the information and direction to proceed in. Had checked some of the clutch travel but not knowing what exactly to look for it seem okish?? Kinda hard to push the peddle and crawl around at the same time when you get into the 3/4 plus Century Club!
Ok snow and cold finally gone enough to get back to the 1973 JD 310! One thing that I did not realize last fall was that you can shift to all the gear position and also shift the high/low range without depressing the clutch peddle. Is this an indication that the clutch pac is shot??? It obviously is disengage..
It is rare for both the Forward and Reverse to be shot at the same time. The next logical step would be to check the transmission pressures.
Thanks not sure where and what is needed to do that. But the snow has returned after a week of 70 & 80 degree temps. So will be a few days before I can get back under the machine.
Have you crawled under and cleaned, lubed, check for clutch pedal FULL return to floorboard ?? You can do this without machine running…. That last 1/2” of clutch pedal return is extremely important ! Been there,,,, figured that out… The linkage runs under the machine and can get gummed up over time and behave exactly like what you’re describing..
Thanks have checked some of the points had power washed a lot of the areas. Will do a travel check on the clutch pedal think it is traveling all the way back?
Mine gets/needs sprayed with PB Blaster a few times a year… Where are you located in Pa. ??
Have power washed a lot of the linkage and under carriage. Will check the linkage and lube points better. Seems like I remember from the fall that peddled was coming back ok and the last few inches there was no resistance. Thinking the resistance started about at 4” of peddle depression? But there again I have since found that do not need any disengagement to shift gears or low/high range, or park. The shuttle shift can also be anywhere when doing all of the above?
Northwest Pa Warren co.
Any new updates ??
No weather has turned again here and I blew an outrigger hydraulic hose lifting the machine up so I had more room to work under it. Unfortunately my clearance to get it in the barn to work is not high enough, so it is all outside work depending on the weather.
If your door opening is just a couple of inches short to clear the cab, let some (a lot) of air out of the tires. My shop door barely allows the roof of the cab to clear, but I have to extend the backhoe to get it all the way inside.
Unfortunately when I built the barn 40 years ago all I had was a ** 50 with a front bucket that had plenty of clearance. One more row of blocks would have made a big difference. Even had enough on hand? “Youth” always in a hurry!
I hope it doesn't need saying to not work under the BH supported by the outriggers. Okay to lift with but don't bet life & limb on a hydraulic system.
Thanks for the safety note. Good to remind everyone to be smart about getting in a hurry and not taking the time to block, lock, and disconnect the battery depending on the equipment problemsl you are working on.
Update The backhoe is now back in service about 3 week ago!! Was parked without any attention to getting back to problem solving. Was getting ready to advertise for sale. Never had a helper to operate the clutch and shifter while I was under the machine. Anyway (mg2361) actually had the problem analyzed, I just did not see it without someone depressing the clutch pedal. Even then I did not realize that was the problem with the grease covering the hole for the cotter pin that connected the round sleeve to the transmission control valve rod was completely gone and just looked like it was ok! You would think I would have a backlog of work but finished everything up in a couple of hours. Too many other toys that can move dirt, just not dig like the backhoe! Thank again to everyone that helped with information !