he.llo everyone i went bought a as is john deere 310a backhoe , hired rollback , hit a bridge cause overheight , blew tire out on rollback , and had to pay guy with rollback more money put battery in , new switch , wire to injection pump , sprayed wd40 down in intake and let set 24 hrs , then went to crank , nothing , no fuel to injectiors , mechanical pump bad , replaced with facet low pressure pump , still no fuel , pulled top of injector pump off , solniod working , took pump off and carried to rebuild local shop. today sprayed whole machine purple power , pressured washed ,lots of grease /oil/yellow paint , then i seen bell housing cracked behind engine ,looked recent , hitting a bridge not good !!! from top to about halfway down . so the fun has started , need housing used ?plus check clutch disc /pressure plate ,etc? was told from helper trans was strating to slip from helper b bought it from .
Wow, the only way it could possibly get worse is if you tried to fix it. From everything so far, I'd say don't spend another cent on it.
hello john deere 310a project hello going to get price for used bell housing , new clutch/pressuress plate , bearing . i bought backhoe real cheap ,crap metal price , so it maybe worth fixing if engine good , also big hydraulic pump on front has been replaced , few hydraulic cyclinders been replaced or redone , desent tires ,about half hydraulic hoses replaced , so overall desent shape .
I'd love to be wrong. It looks like that has a reverser between the transmission and clutch. The reverser contains wet clutches that shift from forward to reverse without the dry clutch. Those are more likely to fail than the dry clutch, if that's what it is. How did it hit a bridge and not bend a hydraulic cylinder? How does the roll off driver like his new bridge?
It would only be over height if the driver failed to lower the backhoe boom....
john deere 310a project hello will find out when get injection pump back on , being rebuilt . i have not got backhoe running so not sure of moving and hydraulics . the guy was a helper of a farm , he said foward / reverse was weak and hydraulics was not working . when i get it running , hopefully hydraulics work and transmission works . far as hitting bridge , we winched on doudle axle rollback with backhoe boom chained up , the driver said he wouldnt be overheight , big mistake !! i suggested let bucket down on bed of rollback by winching it closer at front of bed . hittirng bridge broke strap across backhoe at front , by mile****ting top of boom and raise front of backhoe up , also cracked bellhousing . then couple miles later tire on outer of rollback blew out , two much weight for double axle rollback only using rear axle .
What happened to the bridge and what was the legal ramifications of that? Keep us posted on your tractors progress. One thing for sure, when you get it done you will be a lot more knowledgable about how it works. We all know it costs money for an education.
lol
If the reverser is weak and hydraulics don't work you are in need of a charge pump. You'll be right there when you change the trans bell housing. The pump supplys oil under pressure to the radial piston pump up front and also to the clutch packs for the trans. First off though look at the filters and see what is in them
I got cut off...! Anyhoo often when the brakes fail on these machines it will take out the hyd system because the filters won't remove stuff under 20 micron (I think) so look carefully at the debris of any.
Suction strainer is most likely plugged solid, nobody ever services them, or for that matter changes the lifeblood, er, oil in the transmission. If the brakes have gone to metal, part it out. I did a 510 that the owner insisted on running for "just one more job" even after the hydraulic pump packed it in due to metal contamination. We ended up pulling that down to the bare transmisison case and went back up, *every* component that came apart was disassembled and cleaned, all lines purged, pumps rebuilt, all cylinders cleaned and repacked... added an extra 10 micron spinon for the hydraulic pump supercharge and still the last time I saw it three years later the filters were catching silver from somewhere. If the brakes are down to the cast iron backer, it's a lost cause.
john deere 310A project update need help hello i installed rebuilt injection pump , clean lines , new washers , opened screw at each one injector at a time to bleed air . then done all 4 and treid cranking her up , turned fast then slowed , the hydraulic pump was building pressure so i run wire to it , to release pressure . ok now engine spins over good , see smoke and smell diesel but she want bust off . i sprayed little either same thing . anyone helpful ideas ? timing 180 degrees off / adjust valves - not sure firing order ? pulled valve cover -very clean - did not adust just checking valves moving -etc thanks for any help
Did you actually get good clean fuel at all four injector fittings? It takes a long time to get the air out of empty injector lines.
hello fresh clean diesel at all four injectors , do you think still have air in lines ?
No, sounds like you have it. Might be a timing issue, not sure.
When you removed the pump, how did you time the engine before taking the pump off? And how did you time it when you put it back on? If you had the line in the pump window lined up before it came off, had a pin in the flywheel, didn't move the engine in between, and had the line lined up when it went back on, you should be good. That's the method I know, not sure if it applies to your engine, sorry.
hello i agree that timing must be off , going to recheck it , finding the hole in flywheel tdc is a pain . then look at injector pump side window marks . maybe i am 180 degrees off ? would like to check vavles clearence also , dont know firing order , engine number 417516T TYPE 42100T 07
hello well today got backhoe running , took injection pump backoff , took starter off , found correct timming hole . i then put all back together , bleed lines , she fired right up !!!!! ok treid hydraulics , nothing works , seen fluid leaking from pump next to hydraulic filer , pretty good stream . so would you take off and see blown o rings ??
Earlier you posted about transmission issues. does it drive in forward and reverse? Did you change the bell housing or whatever was cracked? Have you pulled the suction strainer and filters to check for clogging? This ain't a two line gear pump system, you have to do some detective work to diagnose the problem usually.
john deere 310a project got running , no hydraulics hello got it running , tried hydraulics nothing , but seen steady stream of hydraulic fluid coming out around filter area . i did try to drive it , so transmission dont know . the bell housing is cracked about 1/4 way so maybe weld it with nickel rods . when we loaded on rollback we used a bobcat to pick up outriggers , front bucket , and backhoe to chain them up to load it . i think the pressure from picking them up has done damage even using levers on each as we done it.
I doubt it. I'd bet you could pick up and flip over the whole machine with any of those "arms" and not hurt the hydraulics, with or without the levers.
Like someone suggested the strainer in the trans. case should be pulled and cleaned, I found out about this on my 310b a few years ago. Also, it sounds like your filters are leaking too, I found these to be difficult to get the thin oring to seal and mine leaked for a while.
hello worked on backhoe today , took flters off and treid getting strainer out . i treid like pick hook and no luck .anyone have any ideas ? i found a return hose that was crimped , looks like regular heater hose .backhoe has two coats of yellow paint , looks desent .
Unfortunately that's a bad sign. The strainer packs up with chunks and gunk which makes it hard to pull out. The hard bits will usually be brake friction bits. I remember driving a large screwdriver between the outside wall of the strainer and the transmission case to get enough space to grab the plastic strainer with some small visegrips, then rotating it while yanking on it, once you get it moving it will usually come on out. Then you have to try to clean all the junk out of the bottom of the case. Probably need a new plastic strainer, Deere dealer should have it, when I bought one last it was less than $50, YMMV. NOT regular heater hose though, it's hydraulic return hose rated for oil at 100 psi I think.
hello ok going to try get strainer out today , then maybe fiqure out how get peices out of case . maybe vacuum out or flush with diesel fuel ? or maybe some tractor supply hydraulic fluid , have it on sale 26 a 5 gal bucket of 303 .
I had issues with my backhoe and the screen was one, flushing with diesel and pulling with needle nose pliers, eventually worked. Check out the thread; HeavyEquipmentForums
I wouldn't run it much with that tsc 303, It would be ok to flush it out with I am sure. it says on the can that it fits all makes and list cat and oliver and deere but then at the bottom says in bold not for anything with wet clutches and nothing newer than 1973. sort of like a CL ad that tells you "van for sale ready to go needs nothing" . then goes on to tell you in the description that it need brakes muffler and a battery. lol
hello thanks for heads up on hydraulic 303 fluid . i read other post and thinking about pulling top cover off --use a compressed air engine cleaner sucking up diesel in and give good cleaning then fill with 10 gallons of diesel and let set . got to get new filters at jd dealer tommorrow . what hydraulic fluid would you use ?napa premuim or tsc premuim fluid ?
hello thanks for help , would you pull top of transmission off and give good cleaning with diesel ? this backhoe i have just got running -yet to see hydraulics work or seen it move .when cranking seen hyraulic fluid spraying out next to steering box , fixed that . also seeing another leak the small box thing on side of trans ,clutch shaft hooks to .
I took the cover off so I could inspect and thoroughly flush/vacuum/magnet inside. If I recall correctly, others said it wouldn't be necessary. My procedure was take both drain plugs out, screen out(eventually), side opposite the screen (there's a small tube on out side, screen rest in 'pocket' ) and maybe ten gallons of diesel. Put a screen from sherwin williams on a 5 gallon bucket (for straining paint) under the drain plugs to capture what was flushed out, And just kept magnet/flushing/ repeatedly. Used a weed sprayer to get in hard to reach spots. In my opinion, this worked best. After pouring in the diesel there was still shavings left in crevices. This took me by myself a long time, as I kept at it until there were no more shavings. Changed fluid/filters and cleaned screen within about 20 hours of use (if I recall). Didn't get much out then or the next time. The filters are difficult to get to seal with the thin gasket, I found it was best to hold the assembly in place and tighten down, keeping the spinning to a minimum. I used some fluid from TSC that was Deere spec, for the first fill and use. I have since gone with hy-gard, it's expensive.
hello well spent afternoon getting strainer out , pb blaster , long nose needle nose , pull picks , etc i found brownish sludge ,little peices of debri , etc filter going to be replaced . i then started on the bad hydraulic leak around the transmission side box see pics, ? leaking around outer cover , pretty heavy running , drips when not ,when i take off whats coming out ? ok next removed main plug , some water then brownish fluid . hope lots flushing gets moisture out.
john deere project hello took both canister filers off also , not real bad , brownish contamined hydraulic oil , and hose from strainer to where it connects was kinked shut , dont see how any fluid went through .
Okay, that first picture of the filter head, on the left side at the bottom of the kidney shaped port you can just see the stop rod for the one pressure regulator spool, you're that close I would try to pull the plug that the stop rod is part of, try to get that spool out, make sure the spring is good, replace any o-rings with the correct ones, make sure the spool moves freely. That's what sets the supercharge pressure for the hydraulic pump inlet.
You may have removed the tube shown, I saw the end of it in the second picture after getting this image, Also; The short hose between the screen fitting and filter base, wrinkled for me slightly but is not bad. I think this is due to the pieces on each end not lining up exactly.
removing part thats leaking on side transmission hello the leak is on this peice , left rear side /toward rear drips not running -pours when running . was going remove clean ---replace gaskets and any bad orings
hello the short hose was replaced with real long hose , ran up around frame then back down , it was totally crimped , the ends dont line up
The short hose I was refering to is #4 on the diagram, I'm not sure we are talking about the same hose, it's the on the end of the trans screen fitting
john deere reverer control box hello the hose we are talking about is the same , thats where long hose was from screen filter to caniister filter , it went up then back down and was crimped. i treid getting control revere box off , loosened two bottom screws --one on side , still looking for other mounting screws .
control reverer vavle mine is leaking bad around side cover
hello treid removing reservse control box , got loose and the shaft that leaves reverer to clutch pivot arm , the arm has a shear pin in it that goes in shaft . i am going to try drill it out and knock arm off shaft . anyone done this before ?