So the backhoe was running fine except 4x4 wouldn't work and the park brake switch would take a few times maybe more of cycling the switch on and off for it to release. It was parked for the winter and not worked for approximately 6 months but was started every month or so but not physically moved . We'll we decided to pour concrete where the backhoe was so we would have to move it to do so. Went out cranked it fired right up , but no forward or reverse. I have since changed the park brake switch just suspecting that the switch finally failed. But still no movement any suggestions? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
You've got several possibilities here. The FNR lever switch and neutral bypass buttons on the shift and the loader knob can be your problem. But I would first take a look at the ground connecting the reverser solenoids. Maybe connect a temporary ground from the solenoids to the tractor frame. If that doesn't work, do not disconnect the ground but also run a temporary wire from the forward solenoid to the + battery terminal. I think I would run it into the cab with a switch so you can safely test it without getting run over by your tractor. So if it goes forward now you know your reverser is working but your wiring needs repairing. Maybe a garment chewed up your wires or just corroded connectors. You can also run wire jumpers to the park brake solenoid to test it.
Where are that solenoids located? I believe I have found the park brake solenoid already, above the rear axle
Attached to the left side of the reverser. That's the small unit between the bell housing and the transmission.
Ok I'll check that. I can hear the relays clicking in the fuse box when I switch it to forward and reverse.
That's good. You can also listen for clicking at the solenoids under the tractor with someone in the cab doing the switching.
Thanks Mr deon, So we got under there and checked solenoids everything works fine. I did happen to find a tran oil dip under the floor , it looked really low in the cold position. Do you know if that would cause any problems and what type of fluid does it take?
In the transmission, reverser and hydraulic tank you need oil that meets a John Deere spec of J20C or J20D. If your oil is low in the reverser (dipstick in door in front of windshield, right side) you may have this type of problem. But the dipstick under the floor is your 4 speed transmission and axle, final drive and brake system. The tank in that door in front of windshield is you hydraulic reservoir. The reverser oil level is checked with engine running. Turn engine off for all other checks. If you don't have an operator and service manual, you need them to keep this machine running.
Thanks Mr deon , I've looked at the dipstick again and read it correctly and it says to check when cold so I think that the fluid is at the correct level. However I've went through and checked reverse solenoid and forward and they click when switched. I've went through and checked all the connections running to them and into the fuse box . I very let the battery go dead somehow. I'll charge and update soon thanks
Ah, maybe the dead battery is your only problem. Not strong enough to work the solenoids. Is your tach working? The tach runs off the alternator. Or maybe your battery/batterys are toast.
It's very possible, I noticed the ground cable seemed to be loose so I'm gonna replace it . Also should there be a red light on inside the park brake switch? I've replaced it with a new one and still no light .
On mine the hoses inside the door where you check the fluids on the back of the hood, check those fittings, one of mine was loose and after tightening it the light started working,... BTW it took 5 gallons of fluid in my trans axle when I changed it out, but the brake chatter quieted down a lot with new correct fluid,...
I'll check it thanks
[/QUOTE]=Also should there be a red light on inside the park brake switch? I've replaced it with a new one and still no light .[/QUOTE] I don't know. My 310D is a 1992. Has no light but the bulb could be burnt. But the switch works fine, but if you have a light and the bulb is good but not lighting up, that could indicate a connection problem and cause your brake to stay on locking up the machine into neutral.
Thank yall very much for your input on the problems with the backhoe. I went through the machine cleaned all connectors on the wires running out of the power supply box and all the connections coming to and from battery, replaced the ground cable and if finally got it moving . I appreciate it
Sammyp87, your very welcome. Glade to hear it now works properly.
sammyp87, if you receive this, I have a simliar problem in Texarkana with a JD 310D that I have put in a new reverser, torque converter, but it still willll not move forward very strongly. You may call me in Texarkana at 870 772 2942. I am a retired army helicopter pilot with a farm over near Hope /Arkansas. thanks so much.
But it does move forward? A reman from the dealer? Aftermarket? Or did someone rebuild it?
I doubt sammyp87 will respond. He hasn't logged onto HEF since his last post. That was over 5 years ago.
I remember ordering a rebuild kit, I think, from Broken tractor Company and Big Rig in Hope, Arkansas put it together, then we installed after he rebuilt it. Also sent torque converter to somewhere in Texas, was rebuilt, and reinstalled, so I don't know if that is considered Reman or not. Don
Then I would suspect that the forward clutch pack clearance was not properly set.
Certainly a possibility. Will talk with the mechanic who put it together.
Are there two sets of solenoids, one for forward , and one for reverse. Are they magnetic units stack on top of each other and could the stem that goes down into them go bad or be worn. I don't know what it is called. There seems to be one unit somewhat on top of reverser and one unit is behind it and a little lower. If the backhoe is a little downhill, it will go forward some when I twist the steering back and forth or lower or raise the buckets. Makes me wonder if enough oil is flowing for forward movement, but yet reverse movement is strong. Don Ruggles Aviator
Not worn, but sticking maybe. Since reverse is strong I would suggest testing the forward clutch pack pressure. I would also test voltage and ground at the forward solenoid by backprobing the connector. If you have high resistance in the circuit maybe the solenoid valve is not moving all the way. You should have 12 V on the positive side and 0.1 V on the negative side.