I have had a hell of a time with my 310G s/n to310GX934593 park brake everything works fine on the machine except when the machine is driven for a short distance and park brake is applied then a buzzing sound is heard and is coming from solenoid area below the steering wheel column. I replaced all three solenoid pressure switchs witch are outlined in red but still have buzzing and the buzzing seems to be coming from that area if I disconnect the X27 solenoid connector the buzzing stops but also turns brake off it only happens when the machine is warmed up
It won't hurt the transmission. Based on your machine serial number the transmission serial number associated with that machine there was a Die Cast issue when the control valve was manufactured creating a small restriction in oil flow when in neutral which causes the spool to vibrate causing a buzzing noise. The only fix if you want to spend the money is to by a new control valve assembly (to the tune of $4000 ). They purged all the old stock out with the new that does not have that manufacturing issue.
Thank you I was leaning toward something like that but just hoped it was something simple Im guessing John deere never had a recall for that ?
Nope.
I am having some more problems with my 310g the park brake is not releasing ive checked starting at the switch going to the silonoid and all seems good there the problem started when a leak formed in a gasket behind the silonoids the leak is repaired but the park break still is not working the transmission fluid was very low from the leak mentioned I toped it off im wondering if the break is having a pressure issue any help would be great this is the same machine as i first started this thread with
oil level is correct I swaped the MFWD for the park brake and the park brake worked fine so how hard of a job will it be to repair the solenoid valve assembly ?
I believe you simply replace that. Or, you could swap with the diff lock solenoid just above it if you don't use that. I rarely need mine.
Not difficult at all.
I replaced the solenoid assembly and all works great thank you for the help it was an easy project
Glad that worked out.
well crap everything worked fine when I replaced that solenoid assembly when I tested it for about 30 minuets of testing so today I started a project and about 30minuets in the dang break did the same thing would not work so I swaped the park break with the MFWD just to finish the job any other ideas ?
So you replaced that solenoid valve for the parking brake. Worked great for 30 minutes and now its stopped working again and you've swapped it with the MFWD solenoid to get the job done? Did you check to see if MFWD still works with the swapped in solenoid? Those solenoids seem to be tough, I just don't see how you could have killed two of them. Wonder if you might have some other problem and it's not really the solenoid causing this parking brake problem. Maybe wiring?
ill try and trace some wires I have had some wiring issuses with this machine the mwfd did work the other day but i will check it tomorrow as well
Check under the floor board where the wiring travels over the top right side of the transmission control valve. That has been a point of wear for the harness.
finally had some time to work on this machine I found a bad connection and all works fine now another issue im having with this machine is the heater is just not heating up as I feel it should so I figured while I have things torn down now might be a good time to check it out the blower motor works fine as well as the ac it gets cold no problem any help would be appreciated
Make sure your heater hoses from the engine to the heater core are not kinked or damaged. Also make sure your heater valve is working allowing hot coolant to get to the heater core. There is also the possibility of a thermostat issue. They had a manufacturing problem with the thermostat and the part number changed. Also there is the possibility an issue with the casting in the head that could cause the thermostat to distort and therefore stick. Check your operating temperature with a heat gun at the thermostat housing when at full operating temp and post what you have.
Well I ran the machine yesterday to run some test for the heater issue and still had issues with the MFWD it would not turn off again so I ran all the voltage test and all seemed ok so I put everything back together and it worked my problem / issue now is that several weeks ago when I was having park break issues I also noticed a leak that was in the plate that is where the silonodes are so I had one of my guys replace the plate well I noticed it leaking again yesterday so I tore it all down again and before I order another 400.00 plate im just wording what my options are or any suggestions im attaching several pics of what I have going on the old plate is the black one in the pics
Did you also install the new hardware with it. The length of the bolts changed with the gasket change.
The bolt length changes with the gasket change? You've got to be sh$tin me! LOL. For what it's worth I made this change myself, same new part # and reused the old bolts. That's been about 250 hrs ago and no leaks. It looks like you are working from above the floor of the tractor. I find it's much easier to pull the main hyd. pump after lifting the tractor up good and high on stands. Then I sit in one of those stadium chairs and work on the plate. I would also suggest you take a bright light and inspect that plate very carefully for any chips/cracks, etc. Looks like you have it nice and clean.
the new plate actually has a bad spot in the little felt like built in gasket and im guessing that is where the leak was im not sure if it was from my guy or if oil wore it off I hate to buy a new plate is it posable that something else could be going on further in that could be giving me issues ?
Ok finally getting back to this The number is 4660 406102
Your machine requires the gasket you have (AT336878?), but make sure you use the new hardware. Order (19) T159607 bolts (60mm in length). If you have the original bolts they are 65mm and will bottom out preventing proper clamping load. Just in case compare the silk screened rubber bead to your old gasket's impressions and to the duct plate/directional control valve to make sure the rubber bead has the same pattern. Your duct plate's sealing surface looks pretty good as far as I can tell.
How bout a handful of flat washers? Making the AT336878 the same thickness as its predecessor would have made too much sense I guess.
I found some thicker washers and re assembled everything so far so good. I will be using it on a water line project and will check it over after that and check for leaks thanks for all the help everyone
well crap still leaking and still having issues with the park brake it all worked fine the first half of the day then all of a sudden the park break would pop on and at first i could just switch it back off but after about three times of that it finally would not switch off at all I even switched the solanoid wires and tried using the mfwd switch but that did not work either so I just tightened the brake release bolts to finish the day out Im going to order the proper bolts and possible a new plate as well for the leak problem
When the parking brake came on, did you check the transmission fluid? I know you've chased down some electrical issues on this machine, but I'm wondering if you also have a hydraulic pressure issue. The parking brake is spring applied and hydraulically released. The electrical side of the machine might be working right, but you're loosing hydraulic pressure and causing the brake to apply. If the transmission oil is too aerated or too low this can happen.
I’ve got a JD 310G park brake stops the machine intermittently. Swapped the mfwd with park brake wires. I can turn on and off the park brake with the mfwd switch but the machine won’t move. I swapped the solenoid valve assemblies, same outcome?? Trans oil level full.
Is the parking brake light on when it doesn't move? Also, I thought I had a problem once and I had knocked the machine out of gear, so make sure you are in gear. The transmission charge pump makes the hydraulic pressure that releases the parking brake. It's electrical control over hydraulics. So an electrical problem or hydraulic problem can keep you from moving.
Welcome to HEF, Wrench hand !
Welcome to HEF Wrench Hand ! Will the park brake release if you rev the engine rpm's up?
No
Does 12volts need to be present at The park break light is on and when I try to move forward or reverse it beeps and won’t move, doesn’t try to move
Crawl underneath and on top of the park brake on the front of the rear axle is a pressure switch. Check that switch. It has either failed or more likely been broken. I see many of them broken.
No park break release pressure
So you've tested switch or connected to a test port and don't have pressure from charge pump or?
Bump here, I am having the same issue with an 310G with the parking brake coming on randomly and almost putting me through the windshield. Is there a way to just bypass the parking brake? I have checked all the rest of the switches/fuses etc
Nolan, welcome to the forum! You've got the 4 speed in the floor? Posting the serial # would help the experts determine the arrangement of your specific machine. FACT: When your backhoe is not running the parking brake is spring applied. That brake stays applied until hydraulic pressure releases it. This is for safety reasons. In your situation, does everything work properly at first and then after machine reaches operating temp, the parking brake comes on? Have you checked your trans fluid level? How does the trans fluid look? Can you let the backhoe sit for a while and brake releases properly again?