hi, I have a 1980mod John Deere 410 backhoe. I was stuck in mud and tried to get out by both driving and pushing with the digger when suddenly the hydraulic became weak. After a while the hydraulic did not responde at all. Everything is dead, power steering, front bucket, digger and the tractor does not move back or forward. There is no "bad" sound from the tractor. I have done some research on the web, and found that the transmission pump might be the reason. This pump feeds the main pump in front of the tractor. It could be an easy fix with a blocked filter or screen or it could be the pump inside the transmission. Does anyone have any experience with similar problems? Could it be something else? I was thinking to start to check the filter(s) and screen. Could anyone tell me where filter and screen is located from this picture? If this is not a quick fix, how difficult is it to replace/fix the pump? Do I have to split the tractor?
I have a 310, but I think it is very similar. The screen is about a foot long and 1 inch or so in diameter and sits across the bottom of the transmission. It can be accessed by removing the short hose between the horizontal filter and the transmission case. You have to drain the oil first of course. There are two bolts that hold the filter assembly to the frame. If you remove those, it will make removing the short hose easier. Remove the hose to case nipple and the screen can be pulled out.
Thanx chroniekon! Do you think it could be a blocked screen causing it?
A blocked screen could cause your problem. Your description of 'sudden' decrease of hydraulic function makes me wonder, however. There are several hydraulic experts on this site that will be able to give you better advice. I am far from an expert on hydraulic systems. I own one of these old backhoes for use on my farm and when I first bought it I changed all the fluids and cleaned the screen.
My Deere experience is limited to a 610c, the system is similar, but the specific locations are different. I can't help you with the screen, mine is behind a big plug in the bottom of the transmission. The transmission filter is the short vertical cylinder in the bottom of the picture. http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt The longer horizontal cylinder in the top left of the picture is the hydraulic filter. http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt I couldn't find the screen, or the transmission pump. You might get lucky and fix it with new filters, and cleaning the screen. If not, that's a good place to start and see what kind of junk comes out. I'm assuming you checked the oil level, and that the transmission input is turning? do the gears grind like they should when you shift fast?
This model is built like an Ag tractor with no driveshaft. I also have a 410 but sorry I can't add anymore info then already provided.
Hello Arnstein, I'm sure you did all the obvious checks first. But just to hear you post them why don't you go through all the obvious checks first just in case the unit was low enough on fluid that you just might have blown up something. Did you smell fluid burning while driving it. Check the fluid levels to make sure they are not too low, perhaps if you may or may not have smell anything burning while you were operating it while trying to get it free from being stuck, because if you were smelling fluid burning thats your first clue to look into. I ask this because its not typically normal for a machine to be working fine then stop working after driving it aggressively to get it loose from being stuck. I strongly believe its not going to be a clogged filter, unless you were really pushing it burning it up and that caused a clogged filter, but that would mean you were really working it hard. Sounds more like you blew up and/or fried something, so make sure the fluid levels were not too low, and if they smell burnt, etc... Of course I'm only suggesting and can be totally wrong, but thats just what I'm thinking so far with what you have mentioned. Good luck with it.
Here is something interesting.....I looked in my parts catalog to find the location of the transmission pump and I never found one. Unless I missed it, the main pump in front of the motor is the only hydraulic pump. I don't have a service manual but the next step after checking all of the obvious things that you mentioned would be to take some pressure readings. Also make sure that the coupling that drives the front pump hasn't loosened up.
Sorry guys, I see its the 410 backhoe is the problem being worked on, didn't mean to take over the post having made the mistake of talking about the 310c.
#16 in the photo should be the screen your reffering to.
joeeye, are you looking under a straight 410 with no letters?
Coupler that drives the front main pump stripped and spinning on the spline shaft?
The upright filter has the short 3 inch long x 1 inch diameter rubber hose running to the transmission housing. The hose needs to come off, and then the nipple on the transmission housing unscrews, there is a screen filter inside. The transmission pump is a gear pump that pumps oil to the front hydraulic pump, it is down inside the transmission. The front pump generates high pressure, but it has to be fed oil from the transmission pump in order to generate the pressure. Make sure your clutch is not pushed in for a long time, as this causes a delay in the transmission pump pumping oil to the front pump. Here is another idea.... You may have a tiny piece of junk stuck in the filter relief valve causing transmission oil to go back to transmission instead of being directed to the front hydraulic pump. Your picture shows the 2 filter cans. The one that stands straight upright needs to come off. There is a plug on the side of the transmission case just up from the filter you removed. Remove that plug. If you look up into the filter cavity, you will see a spool valve. That spool contains the filter relief valve.The valve can be pushed out of it's bore with a screwdriver, out the plug hole. Not easily done. Once out, very carefully check the small poppit inside the valve spool. There could be a be a piece of debris holding the valve partially open which will keep your pressures from building.
I got confused thinking we were talking about a 310c which is the same thing I have with a jittery hydraulic problem under load that I thought I could add to the conversation, then when I seen the original post was for the 410 I need to delete my posts and stop with the misleading advice.. oops sorry..
No problem joeeye....could someone please tell me where to look so I can see this trans pump in a no letter 410? Outbackrider?
O&W I have the service manual for a straight 310, same for straight 410, the manual refers to it as a transmission oil pump, but the pump is in the reverser brake housing. The pump is simply two gears. If you look under JDparts dot com look under the straight 410 machine alphabetic search "REVERSE BRAKE HOUSING" the pump gear assembly is part number 13. The service manual explains it this way: The transmission oil pump is a constant displacement, gear-type pump, located on the rear wall of the reverser housing and driven at engine speed by the powershaft. From what I have read, the transmission pump is pretty durable and it is one of the last items to fail....the gears (turn/pump oil) to the front pump when the clutch is released. If you hold the clutch in too long, you can loose hydraulic pressure.
Thank you very much. I guess this POS military parts manual I'm using is missing some stuff. I will look for it online. So let me ask you this. My foot clutch is frozen so I have never been able to push it in. If I were able to push it in does that mean that the power steering would stop working?
Happy to help...With my limited experience, yes...very possible. As the transmisssion pump disengages when the clutch is pushed in, the oil flow is reduced to the front pump, one of the first items charged with high pressure oil is your power steering. Also, make sure your fluid level is high enough. Also, the hydraulic oil accumulator, probably has lost it's charge, the accumulator is designed to supply the power steering and loader operation with high pressure hydraulic oil. The operator's manual states it this way....The transmission oil pump supplies oil for the (front) main hydraulic pump. Therefore, avoid prolonged disengagement of the engine clutch which controls oil pump operation. Disengaging the pump for long periods reduces supply of pressure oil for hydraulic functions.
OK, thanks again. Yeah, I'm pretty sure after all of these years the accumulator is flat. I've been wanting to check into it hoping it might also smooth out the high pressure pulses from the main pump. It seems like the high pressure lines are vibrating way too much. I may have found the gear pump in my manual in the reverse brake housing. It's shown as an assembly so it's not actually showing gears like I was looking for and they call it "gear assembly-speed"
Hi folks and thanks again for your quick response. I will give you some more information on the matter: This backhoe was for sale with the dead hydraulics. I took a chance and bought it ;-) The information I got on what happend when the hydraulics gave in is what the seller told me. He also told me he have not done any faultfinding on the machine. He seemed honest so I went over and had a look at the backhoe. The engine started easily and ran without any alarming bad sounds. And the fact that he was selling the machine with a second machine for spare parts made me take a chance and go for it ;-) I wil get the machine delivered to my place in about 2 days, so I posted here to get an idea on where to start when the machine arrives. i am hoping for luck and a quick fix! When I checked the machine at the sellers farm, I checked oil level on transmission (Stick under the seat) and oil level on the engine. Everything was fine and the oil did not smell burned. There was no bad sounds from the hydraulic pump and when i operated the controls for digger, loader or power steering there was no change and nothing happened. I checked that the axle from engine to the front pump was not broken and that it was spinning. I also lay my hand on the pump to feel if it was turning, and I believe it was. But off course, OldandWorn could be right that the coupling has loosen and that it is only spinning on the pump axle. That was all the checks I did before i bought it. Yes, I know I took a chance, but I like to live a little bit dangerous ;-) When I get the machine home my plan is: 1. Check if the transmission is turning by shifting gear a little hard to see if the transmission grinds. 2. Drain the oil from the transmission, replace filters, clean screen and check relief valve. 3. Check the axle for the main pump. Please advice me if this is a good start.
All of those sound like good things to check for. The main pump shaft is splined so take that into consideration. Unless the splines are gone, if you can see the coupler turning it's a good chance your pump is also turning. Thinking about your symptoms I'm going to guess that you don't have any major high dollar problems.
outbackrider.....I'm looking at JD online and I see the pump gears. My parts catalog just shows the front and back plate (5 and 9) with nothing in the middle and lists it as an assembly.
arnstein77....I found another filter on our machines that I never knew about and it may be something to look at if your other checks don't find anything. I have a very difficult to navigate military manual and I found a troubleshooting section for "hydraulics not working". One of the things they mentioned is a filter in the stroke control valve which is attached to the front of the main pump. On the bottom right hand side there is a big nut to gain access to this filter. It's part #15 under stroke control valve, hydraulic pump.
On that stroke control filter I just mentioned it looks to be not used in serial #383251 and up. I don't know why they say serialized and non-serialized but it sure is confusing to me. Contradicting what I said about being a cheap fix. If your hoe always works when the oil is cold and stops when it warms up, that could indicate a worn out pump.
Here is a photo that I took of the sump screen. This is after removing the short hose and unscrewing the steel nippled fitting that the hose attaches to. Reach in and pull out the screen. At the time, I had a mental block on where the screen was....then the light came on... Over time, crud and unfortunately brake lining material can cause this screen to clog. As I understand it, this screen rough filters the hydraulic oil being pumped by the transmission gear pump to front high pressure pump. Any low pressure return oil is filtered through the canister micro filter before ending back in the transmission sump, to repeat the process. If this screen is clogged, hydaulic performance will go down, due to lack of oil flow to the front pump....Hope I am not being too redundant....
I had the same problem with the exact same machine. First thing you gotta do is pressure test it. There are a couple test ports on the pump to check it, Its fairly easy. I'll give you some more info. on that tonite after work. Mine turned out to be a stripped input shaft on the reverser assembly, Wrenchbender did one and the clutch had exploded in it, another guy had one and it was a blocked sump screen. All of these machines had the same symptoms as yours. I think there is also a relief valve in there that will cause it too. For now here's my thread: Andy
Thanks Outbackrider for a nice picture of the screen placement. I am realy hoping for a easy fix, but propably I have a stripped input shaft or clutch disk.. I am guessing that the "gear grinding test" will confirm it if there is a stripped shaft og clutch..? Thank for the information Awhelan! How much work is it to split the engine from the tractor? Does anyone have a step by step guide for that?
I suggested the gear grinding test, but other members have added better advice. If you get nothing from the transmission, then the clutch isn't turning for some reason. if it grinds "lightly" it could be dragging but not turning under any load. It's a ton of work to split a tractor like that, depending on what kind of equipment you have. relatively simple though.
Here is a copy and paste from the 310 manual. There are a few pictures that didn't follow along. Also, like most manuals, when reading one section, it refers you back to other sections of the manual. I edited/added to the following text the best I could to eliminate some of the confusion this would cause. If you need clarification on something, let me know. You may want to consider purchasing a manual. I bought mine on CD from www.johndeeretechinfo.com It was under $50. REMOVING AND INSTALLING REVERSER HOUSING Removal Raise loader to full height and support boom by one of the following methods. 1. Attach a piece of angle iron to the boom cylinder piston rod between the rod end and the cylinder barrel, being careful to avoid damaging the piston rod. Be sure the angle iron is large enough to rest against the cylinder barrel and not against the head casting. 2. Use prop under cross member to support boom. 3. Chain bucket to hoist or overhead beam. Disconnect battery ground strap. Drain oil from transmission. Bleed down accumulator by operating steering valve. Disconnect all connections between clutch housing and engine Remove operator’s seat and floor panels. Disconnect main pump pressure line at pressure control valve on right side of transmission. Insert wooden blocks between front axle and front end support to keep tractor from tipping. Place solid blocking under loader frame and remove cap screws securing loader to front end support and canopy brackets to flywheel housing. Support rear of machine and front of transmission case with solid blocking. Install two JD-244 engine lifting adapters in engine cylinder head. Attach JDG-1 sling to adapters and to A-frame hoist. Fig. 8-Engine Attaching Points Remove reverser housing-to-engine cap screws. With the aid of a hoist, roll engine with front end assembly away from reverser housing. Disconnect all the necessary wiring, linkage and hydraulic lines between upper cowl and reverser housing. Disassemble upper cowl from top of reverser housing. Disconnect and remove the brake valve and transmission shift cover. Remove transmission-hydraulic oil filters. 1 -Reverser Housing 3-Transmission Shifter Cover 2-Transmission Case 4-Attaching Points Fig. S-Reverser Housing Attaching Points Position a chain hoist around reverser housing. Remove cap screws securing reverser housing to transmission case and remove housing from transmission.
Testing at port "B" should give you trans. pump pressure. If you get nothing you'll prob. be pulling the motor. Check your trans. sump screen, filters and relief valves first.
I had to size the pages to upload, now there hard to read. The bottom port is "B" should be 100+ psi. The top port is pump output pressure and should be 1300 or 1700 psi depending on your serial#
Also on a side note, I'm interested in your seat and how it's mounted. Could you get me a few pics?
I have had the whole assembly off if you have any specific questions.
No grinding from the gearbox... :-( any other checks I should do before I start splitting?
Did you find anything in any of the filters or screen? Do you see any inspection hole for the bellhousing, to take a peek at the flywheel and clutch? maybe take the starter off and use a mirror, or vacuum cleaner to check for loose junk? sure sounds like you'll be splitting it though...
You could try the trans pump pressure test at port B as described in Awhelan's post. I don't think you would even need a pressure gauge. If oil comes out, the pump is turning.
Ahhh...I understand now. These are the sellers words and not what happened to you when you were testing the machine out before buying. It made me think that the machine would operate ok when cold. Don't get ahead of yourself. The checks in the last few posts needs to be done first at the very least.
Splitted my backhoe in half today and found broken springs from the clutch. Thanx for all your help and support! Good to know there is a place on the web where people know an old JD! Must say I am impressed with the design of the 410. It was easy to splitt the backhoe due to good engineering! Is there anything else I should change with the engine seperated from the transmission? The crank shaft seal? Is it easy to replase? Is it easy accessable behind the flywheel?
I guess the broken parts will follow a complate clutch replacement set? Does anyone have the part numbers? Is it straigt forward to replace like a normal car clutch?
You should be able to get on the Deere site for your country and look the numbers up. I don't know your serial number but it looks like the pressure plate assembly or individual parts including the springs (T24956) are no longer availiable. The US site says to contact the dealer. The clutch plate looks to be availiable with a number change (AL71088). https://jdparts.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90.jdparts.view.publicservlets.HomeUnsigned
Did you take the clutch apart? Those might be from the disk not the pressure plate? I'd definitely do the seal. It looks like it's a one piece and "should" be easy. When I had the hydraulic pump off the front of my JD backhoe, I took the front seal off even though there was no leakage and the machine is newer than yours. Glad I did, the spring in the seal was wearing a groove in the surface it rode on, so now I have a new seal and a speedisleave. Don't get worried that JDparts says the parts are unavailable, that might just mean they're unavailable online. Everything is available somewhere, and it won't be hard to get that disk or complete set.
Unfortunately I did not take the clutch apart, and it is a 2 hour drive from my house.. I guess it could be the springs on the clutch disk its self? What does these springs do? The clutch pedal felt ok before i splitted the blackhoe, that indicate that the pressure plate is ok? Is it normal that the springs in the clutch disk breakes? Expensive parts, so hoping I could get away with only the disk....
The springs in the clutch attenuate the torque peaks coming from the engine. Without them there would be lots more vibrations and sounds - NO FUN AT ALL. Also reduced lifetime of the components driven by the clutch. Yes, sometimes the springs break, maybe due to excessive heat, and/or force, not sure.
Very good point! Looking at the pics in the linked thread, the pressure plate springs look to be larger than the ones laying in the bottom of the OP's machine. It also looks as though the pressure plate springs are visible after splitting the tractor. I would also replace the throwout and pilot bearings since it's open.
It's not normal for the springs to break, but if something fails, as opposed to the clutch facing wearing out, that's more likely than the pressure plate failing. The springs take the shock out of clutch abuse, and they took a little too much. The clutch "feeling" good, is a good sign that the pressure plate is OK, but you'll want to take a good look at it before you reuse it.
On mostly all vehicles like cars and pick-ups its impossible to install the clutch backwards, but being this is the first time I've ever seen clutch springs break like that I can't help but ask if the unit looked like it could have been taken apart a year or two or three ago and your particular backhoe is known to be able to install the clutch backwards? Just an educated guess. Try looking at both sides of the new and old clutch and see if the mechanics of it such as what houses the springs and such have the same measurements, so that there is a chance that it could have been installed backwards by the prior owner? Can you post a picture of the old clutch, because the picture I see there looks like a new clutch. Thanks a bunch for posting your finding! ~Joe
Hi, I will post a picture of the old clutch once I have removed it from the backhoe. Never heard of a clutch beiing installed the wrong way. How do you install it backwards? Will my new clutch be marked some way? This side out?
Yes, every one I've ever seen is marked flywheel side, but some of them will go in the wrong way too. Typically the hub would wear on the flywheel if it was put in wrong.
This is the reason for my problems: Hopefully, there is nothingelse wrong with the machine!
That machine should, like the 1981 410 I use to own, have an accumulator to soften the forward and reverse functions. If it's empty of nitrogen, I assume will cause the shifts in direction to be abrupt and could cause these springs to take the hit. Anybody have better knowledge of this information?
I agree with Deon, don't them rivets look like its still a new clutch ?
The clutch doesn't show any ware because it is not used like a conventional clutch. It's only ever disengaged it you lift the metal lever on the clutch pedal for cold weather starting. Normal clutch disengagements are hydraulic.
I have a 310b JD that has the same problem will run but no steering no forward or reverse no loader or backhoe. Did you find it hard to split this machine. I think I'm going to have to split it because talking the low pressure oil line from the transmission to the high pressure pump got no oil at all.I would appreciate it if you could give me some tips
Jerry, tell me more about how your problem started, and how you diagnosed your hyd fluid pressure, did you use a shop manual and go by the recommended pick ups to check the hyd pressure? And have you noticed any new hyd leaks, even from last year?
Joe thanks for answering I'll tell u the whole story. My nephew owns the JD a year or so ago he was digging a whole the HYDsys just stopped he had a couple of guys take a look at it he first thing they did was change the main pump with no success they change the filters nothing they told hi the machine had to split and left the machine sat there all this time it couldn't be moved because the backhoe was inyhe hole and they couldn't get it out.he and were talking one day he had said they told he it was scrap I took a look at the machine and told the machine was to good to be scraped I told him I would take care of it I ran JD all my life but never had to repair one. Just the other day I was able to get the backhoe out of the hole and move it. I still can't work on it because it in the woods.Im going to try one thing before I try splitting it the 1inch#12inch long screen I'm going to pull that see if it plugged I don't know if that was done.If there's any thing you can add it will be welcome Thanks Jerry
Jerry, I just spilled water on my keyboard so I'm having a hard time typing… don't do anything hastily until you have a good diagnosis. When you said the hyd system stopped working I would think you could still drive it home. When you mentioned main pump I believe your talking about the hyd pump and not the fuel injection pump? There are many other things to check before taking it all apart. Sorry but I need to fix my computer's keyboard before I can help
Joe when the HYD stopped that was it it the engine would run but no forward or reverse no power steering and the front or back bucket wouldn't work
Joe I don't know if u got the last reply? I'll just repeat it. When the HYD stopped the backhoe was in the hole he couldn't get it out no forward or reverse nothing but the engine would run, I'm i explaining myself?
Jerry, So the engine runs good, and before this happened did you notice anything different about the way the machine was operating? perhaps just before it stopped working did you hear anything let loose or clunk or went bang? So what you have is a machine where none of the hydraulics work, and it will not move forward and backwards, right? I'm sorry about being redundant in asking questions, but I just wanted to make sure I understand what you have going on. I'd like to mention what happens to me once in a while, that I'd like for you to check for. sometimes as I get in and out of the seat the cuff on my pant leg becomes caught on the shifter and it takes it out of gear with out me knowing I did that, then when I shift the reverser to move the machine nothing happens. A few times when this happens I thought my reverser blew up. So basically go around and check the obvious making sure its in first gear and not in 4th gear, because I believe an older machine will not move from a dead stop in 4th gear. at lease mine don't depending what position its in, So if your in a ditch all hung on on some rough soil going up hill there might be a good chance by mistake its in 4th gear and or neutral and not 1st gear.... Again to say, I'm just throwing out some silly ideas to check for before digging deeper into the more serious fixing and checking thats got to do with the more expensive repairs. You'd be surprise how many times I use to find such minuscule problems. Let me know what you find once you check over everything like I mentioned just to be safe its nothing simple that happen by accident.
Joe give me some time and I'll get back to I have to touch bases with my nephew and he a very busy guy
Joe haven't talked in a while hope your keyboard works. I talked to my nephew ,he said there were no noise nothing different the HYDs just died, I finally got it up out of hole up on level ground I ordered batteries for it. When I get the batteries I'm going to start it. When I started working on this machine I noticed I think it was the low pressure hose off that was connected to oil cooler, when I start this should there be oil coming out of that hose if the transmission pump is working?
Jerry, if you want to take the hose off the hydraulic fluid cooler to test if the fluid is being pushed out by the pump, i would believe thats a good way to check if the pump is working or not, but i would not recommend doing that if your not familiar with doing something like that already, because what ever you do please do not loosen a line connection and look for hydraulic fluid to come out as if the line has a leak to tell you there is pump pressure, because the pressure of the fluid inside the line comes out like a jet stream of hydraulic fluid that is so strong, look at it this way, the lines are rated at 4500psi and up, so it cuts like a knife when a hose springs a leak, enough to cut your skin open and even loose an eye so fast, often the shop manuals explain how dangerous a hyd hose leak can be when it cuts the skin open and fluid gets under the skin with how hard it is to get hyd. fluid out from the skin, not too many doctors know how to treat that injury and limbs get too infected…. so please don't be cracking lines loose to check for fluid, and don't poke around lines that don't look safe, even engine off there can be pressure in the line, so you can get very hurt, try to get someone who's done this work before to help you if your not comfortable doing this now that i've warned you… so that was my safety lesson Jerry, I don't mean to scare you, but you did mention you never worked on the machines before so i felt it was important to remind you about safety issues. so if you still feel up to taking this on problem then make sure there is enough hyd fluid in the system, if i'm not mistaken there are 3 places to check for hyd fluid. check the fluid in the rear end, that dip stick should be under the seat, then the storage box on the side, and then the reverser dip stick thats mounted somewhere i think rear of the engine on the left side, i think? if there is not enough fluid in the system remember how much you put in, anything that 'you do' and 'see' will be necessary to know to help with finding out whats wrong. you said you got it out of the hole, how did you get it out? pulled it with another vehicle? and i guess you would have mentioned already if you saw fluid on the ground while the hoe sat there. okay Jerry, let me know what you find if the hyd fluids were not low in all three places to check, and how the fluid smells and looks, are you familiar with that a bad reverser fluid would smell like? etc… and if you safely check for the hyd pump works, pay attention to how powerful the flow was. joe
Yes, there should be lower pressure oil flowing to the oil cooler from that hose which feeds the main high pressure pump on the front of the machine. Does your machine look exactly like the original thread starter's pic? The hydraulic system has changed over the years so we need to know more about your machine. A year, serial number, model 410, 410c, etc... If it's a straight 410 (I'm not familiar with the newer models) all of the hydraulic oil is contained in the rear section and the only dip stick is located right in front of the seat. A word of caution before you run it for an extended amount of time. When they replaced the main pump there is no telling if they filled it with fluid or not so you don't want to ruin a new pump if it's running dry. Since there hasn't been too much information exchanged yet, this would be a good opportunity to start your own thread as more people will read threads with a current date. It's your choice of course.
Hi joe thanks for responding it took me a while to get this machine out of hole the backhoe was in a 5ft hole used two 3ton comealongs very slow process once I got the bucket out of the hole I was able to move to the side place it on top ground. From there I handsome big trees I could put chains around an use my comealongs very slow but I got it. I appreciate your concern for safety I will be very careful. I wish I could work on this every day but I live a distance away an every thing takes time. I got new batteries coming once I get them I will check all the fluids try to start this and see what I come up with Jerry
Thanks for your interest the machine is a 310B john deere 1977 I don't have the model or serial numbers yet I will write them down next time I'm there. Is there any way to put some HYD fluid in the pump before I try to start it? You mentioned starting my own thread I thought I did that ,how would you do that Thanks Jerry
310B and 1977 is good enough for identification and your machine should look just like the pic in the first post of this thread. The model 310 may have an open center hydraulic system which is different than the 410 but others on the forum experienced with the 310 can say for sure. I have never had to add fluid to the pump but maybe the suction hose from the oil cooler or taking one of the large plugs off the top of the pump. It's just a caution I thought I should mention if the machine has been or will be run for an extended time during troubleshooting if no oil is being fed to it from the trans pump, which sounds quite possible. Go to the tractor/loader/backhoes sub-forum and at the top of the page you will see a button that sez "+Post New Thread"
Please post a new thread, you'll get more eyes and answers. Apparently the 310, 310A and 310B had the similar radial piston pump as the other Deeres. The 310C went to a open center gear pump. I've stumbled over that one a few times... In any case, a new thread with your year and model, "77 310B suddenly lost all hydraulics and movement while operating" will have a better chance of getting your answers. Also, a JD technical manual will help explain the system. Money well spent if you feel up to working on this, but don't know the specifics of the closed center system and where the charge pressure comes from.
Hello Arnstein I read about your problems and glad you found the problem and got it fixed. I have the same problem no HYD machine won't move the engine is fine,the questions I have is did you remove the front loader, or did you raise it and do the job with it raised? If you raised the bucket how did you get up high enough to support it, that the problem I'm having. When you split this machine was it on level ground, I have to do this in the woods and the ground isn't very level, did you have any trouble putting it back together.
Hi Arnstein I would like to get some info on your splitting of your JD?