I purchased a 544E John Deere Loader. I used it about 3 months ago to break apart some snow piles. I used the clutch cut out feature when I was moving the piles. The loader had god power when I was moving the piles and when i parked it. When I tried moving the loader after it sat for a few weeks the loader had good power at first then it acted like it was slipping and it would not pull its own weight. If I shut it off it would move and have power enough to feel it if I applied the brakes but within a few minutes it did not want to move. If I leave it sit for a while it has power for a few minutes then it slowly loses power. I have changed the transmission oil(it does not smell burnt), the filter and cleaned the pick-up piping from the reservoir to make sure it was not clogged. There were no metal or other parts in the oil. The problem seems to be in the control circuits from what little I know of this machine. The linkage to the transmission is mechanical for forward and reverse and speeds 1 through 4. I understand this is a ZF transmission but the ID plate is missing. I have the shop manuals from John Deere.
Hi Tom, So, I'd say it is a 4WG120 with mechanical control system. Deere kept ordering the WG's with mechanical control for a very long time. I could get you an operators manual for a 4WG150 which is equal to WG120 apart from number of clutch discs. The manual would show pressure ports of clutches for better evaluation. Please share email address if you like.
Welcome to HEF Tom ! On the instrument panel there should be a toggle switch for turning the clutch cutout on/off. Turn it off and see if your problems go away. Report back.
mg2361, I have tried disconnecting/unplugging the solenoid and blocking the hydraulic line to the clutch cut off valve but that did not help.
Bigbert, my email is [email protected] I have the JD shop manuals but at this point anything could help. Normally the loader does not want to move after a short time of running but yesterday I repeatedly moved the speed selector lever up and down through its range of 1-4, the transmission pressure light came on a few times as I moved it up and down and the loader would move forward and back but without the power of true engagement.
I just purchased a 544E and it started having similar problems almost immediately. First johne deere I've ever owned, so limited on knowledge. Did you figure out the problem with yours?
Tom hasn't logged in to HEF since last June. If you send him a PM, it will generate an email notification and it will automatically be sent to him by HEF.
As a point of interest I remember having a short conversation with the Deere dealer rep when I noticed a new loader had a Zed Eff transmission in it. I told him I had intimate experience with them, and was not impressed. He stated rather bluntly that mother Deere was so impressed with them that they had just purchased Funk, lock stock and barrel. Good luck.
And they have owned Funk for years and still use ZF in their wheel loaders, backhoes and now in the ADT's. Why? The $1000 question. They use Funk in the motor graders and the skidders. If you look at available products from Funk they offer plenty of powertrains for backhoe and wheel loader size equipment. Maybe its cheaper to buy a ZF than build their own ???
As far as I remember Deere fits ZF since beginning 1980's. 4WG150 and 180. Until End of 1980's with mechanical-hydraulic control system, from end 80's to mid 90's with electro-hydraulic control and TCU EST17 and EST25. From end of 90's Ergopower 4 and 5 speed WG130/160/190/210/260/310 w/o and with lock-up clutch. (With little complaints and issues reported here in HEF ) At least Tom's loader got a 4WG150 with mechanical control. We had a longer email conversation in Aug./Sept 2020. So, mills, if you'd describe the behaviour of your 544E, we might possibly be able to resolve.
The 544E I have is a 92 model, serial #536895. Just purchased it last week from an used equipment dealer. I thought the loader checked out good for it's age, and the hauler I had deliver it said the same thing. After an initial once over I drove it up as small incline and picked up a fairly good size log. Just as I started backing down the loader died... and down the bank I went. It didn't start back very easy. Fuel level was low, so we added five gallons and got it restarted. Put it in gear and started moving forward, but it was pulling sluggish as if the brake was on... and it died again. Just before it died I had noticed an alarm sounding. After repriming the fuel, and started it back up, I could hear the alarm every time you shift into forward or reverse, and now the loader doesn't move. Doesn't feel like it shifts at all. I left it in gear and tried to find the source of the alarm... and it died again. Question I have is do I have one problem or two. Is the alarm shutting it down on a timer, or do I have a transmission problem, and a fuel supply issue that shows up when the loader is under load. Transmission fluid looks good with no burnt smell. Changed the filter, but still wont engage. I have a service manual coming, but it won't arrive till later this week. I'm new to the Deere world, so any help would be appreciated.
Two
You were correct, got the fuel problem resolved. With everyone's help I think the transmission problem is narrowed down to the clutch valve, brake valve, or brake switch.
Hi Mills, you mentioned a fast down hill drive just before running into issues. This might point to wrong oil level in tranny. Measure at approx. 60 to 75 degrees C, engine low idle, tranny neutral. Level should be around 50 to 70 mm below center output shaft. Also check wether the right dipstick is placed in tube. Too high oil level will lead to foaming oil when driving fast.
I have a 1997 744H with the ZF transmission. When I bought it, it not have 3rd reverse or 4th gears at all. Everything else was fine. After a few years the clutches finally started to go and I just had the transmission replaced with a reconditioned unit. I now have 1st and 4th forward and 2nd reverse. We have pulled the transmission control valve and all solenoids function properly, it just will not move in the other gears. We bench tested the control valve and operated it through the selector and harness. I am at a loss for what may be teh issue. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Chris
Hi Chris, my first idea: Someone mixed up the hoses from control valve to clutches. Swap hoses KR and K2 and try again.
Sorry for not posting this response after I got the problem fixed, but here is my reply to Chris H. Hate to hear about your problems. Doesn't sound like the same issue. Mine was the parking brake solenoid stuck closed. I despise electrical issues. Mine is a manually shift unit with an electrical clutch solenoid, so I unplug the solenoid, and was able to finish the job I was on. Very little electrical information available for these units. Luckily it's a simple system and didn't take too long to run down once I got it back to the shop. Oh, and this loader was filthy making trouble shooting extremely difficult. Took two days of cleaning, but you can at least see what you're working on now. The loader doesn't pull hills very well in the higher road gears, so I changed filters, fluid, and cleaned the screen. Didn't help, so I'll run it till it goes out, and then I'll swap it out. Then I'll be like you and have to deal with all the new issues that incurs.
For Chris: To prove the theory with mixed up hoses. (KR solenoid feeding K2, K2 solenoid feeding KR, both on same shaft!!). If you run the engine in neutral with wide open throttle it will rev up to approx. 2200-2300 rpm. What happens if you rev it up in 2nd F? around 1800 to 1900 rpm? In 1st R and 3rd R is it like loader being stopped with parking brake?
Having a similar issue with a trojan 3500z fitted with a 4wg120. Used to plow snow 3 maybe 4 months out of the year and sit for the other 8 months. First it wouldn't move at all. nasty electrical fire in the dash. Now I've cleaned it up and with each shift of the dw1. I can verify the different solenoids doing something. Ive seen the solenoid and clutch chart and i struggle to understand it. Normally I dont post questions but after reading your reply about feeling like the parking brake is pulled in certain gears. You definitely know your stuff!! Also you have made me realize there are so many possibilities I hadn't considered before. So far I have changed the oil and filter it had quite bad emulsified milkshake oil. Somehow the fill cap was left off for the 8 months off season and then run for an unknown amount of time. After changing the oil nothing changed still wouldn't move. I have bypassed the brake pedal switch by jumping the 2 connections together. Pulled the pressure control valve cleaned the rust out if it and reassembled and now it moves but all fwd gears on the dw1 feel like SLAMMING on the brakes. Neutral is fwd but in a high gear either 3rd or 4th I can't tell. And reverse does the same hard stop in all gears. But if you shift halfway between reverse and Neutral it will go in reverse. I'm starting to believe it's an internal shifter problem but they're almost 4 thousand to replace. I'm really hopeful you can help me with your extensive knowledge of these transmissions. Thank you so much in advance bigbert
Hi Brian, I'm afraid we have a different issue here. (as no one re-installed external hoses hopefully). Milkshake oil means water/oil mix in transmission...and corrosion. First focus needs to be put on control valve. Does it work properly after cleanup? You have an operators manual of 4WG120 in front of you? Else let me know. Check pressures of clutches at ports with M10x1 thread. We must be sure pressurized clutches have at least 15 bar (215 PSI), open clutches 0 bar. How many solenoids underneath sheet metal cover at control valve? 4 or 5? Please take a photo of type plate, @bottom of tranny.