Seeking information about the older Deere 570, 570A and 570B graders. They appear to be some of the cheaper name brand iron on the used market. Engine, problems, hydraulics, etc. All replies appreciated as I have no experience with Deeres. Except the one I'm married to, and that's been problematic, to say the least.
The 570A was one of the best small graders ever made at the time. The one we bought in 1980 was sold around 2003 to a rancher in west texas to grade his ranch roads. Would never have sold it accept that it was just a little too small for use in the landfill.
Finally something I know about, the co I work for has 2 of them one is a B and was rebuilt by us after a building fire, 20 years ago, never touched the engine except for vc and pan gasket, hoses etc, it has over 25k hours on it and no issues ever. We did rebuild the moldboard wear areas/slides. also 20 years ago. Very troublefree machines.IMO
My 570A I aquired my 1979 570A three years ago from a local municpality where it received regular check-ups and had a maintainence history. They also installed a new engine in the early 90's which now has 2500 hrs. Some of the problems I have encountered: return line failed at a hose connection right over the radiator which then washed the engine in hydralic oil. Check it as it is quite a mess to clean-up if it fails. Some electrical issues in the front panel due to old connections. Slow leaks in two tires which was fixed when I had tubes installed. Shimmed the slide on the moldboard. Had a king pin drop down in the front steering, caught it before it fell out. I kick myself because I did not check the saddle pins out, they are still frozen and the dealership tells me they generally have to "lance" them out and replace them. Expensive... however it is not a function that would get used much by me, just nice to have working. Some other minor issues with hydralic over electric switches for brake lights and also a safety switch for starting. I added a cable ladder step rung which has the added benefit of letting me know when I've articulated that far, (helps me keep the blade and tires from meeting. Over all it has been a solid machine that should pay for itself. The thread on 670A that threw a rod scared me a little, especially when one of the replys stated that the bottom rod bearings and bolts should be replaced at 5,000 to 6,000 hours. Hope this helps.
You will come to regret putting tubes in tubeless tires.What a ridiculous waste of money.A real tire serviceman would've explained to you that putting a tube in a tubeless tire assembly is REDUNDANT.All it would take to stop the slow leak would be to clean the bead area of the wheel,along with the o-ring channel of the rim-base and bead band with a wire brush and properly lubricate them before re-mounting the tire.(new valve grommet or core-housing would also have stopped the slow leak).At any rate,now when you get a nail in that tire(assuming the nail remains in the tire) you have a flat,whereas had it been left tubeless,you'd have a slow leak.Why,you ask?Because the nail puts a hole in the tube-which loses air.The same nail in a tubeless assembly only creates a slow leak because the nail is plugging the hole,the only place for air to escape.With a tube in there,the air from the tube leaks out of the tube then through the valve hole and o-ring gutter(because there's no o-ring). This is one of my biggest pet-peeves,akin to replacing a hydraulic cylinder with a winch and pulley.Just sayin'. Another one that just drives me nuts is the old"boot it and put a tube in it".Well,the ONLY purpose a tube has ever or will ever serve is to contain air.PERIOD.The boot,if properly installed,repairs the tire body AND is an airtight seal.NO TUBE REQUIRED.What do they think,that the tube is gonna structurally strengthen the tire?Get real.Well,there's my two cents worth,as well as my soapbox rant for the week.:salute
Tireman, your points are all valid. Only exception being sometimes old tubeless tires will no longer hold air and can have their life extended by installing a tube. Budget consideration. Your mannerism however will cause most readers to stop reading after the first couple sentences and not give you the credit your experience and history deserves..... Common mistake that I've made several times....
I can add a comment about running tubeless tires. I was out in the middle of nowhere (oilfield) and was getting a flat on motor grader. I could hear the air coming out. Not having anything but some old screws and pliers and scewdrivers I threaded a screw into that leak and stopped that thing from leaking. I would have been hoofing it if I didn't do that. That screw stayed in the tire for about 3 months before we ever got it fixed. Not the best thing but it saved the day. You could not have done that with a tube tire for sure.
Thanks for the replies. As luck would have it, a 670A has shown up on the local radar screen first.
Very valid point,ovrszd.I know that I sometimes come across quite brash,but I make no apologies for keeping it real and simple.I guess I should've been a little more PC, but that's just not me.I feel that that's one of the problems with society today,too many folks worried about being "PC" instead of being real,but I won't get on that soapbox.Bottom line is,point taken.Thank you.
My point exactly,Radrock.Thank you.
No worries. I agree with everything you said.
“It’s difficult to get a man to understand something when his salary depends on his not understanding it.” —Upton Sinclair Third time I take the tire off, go to town to get the same leak fixed, I said put a tube in it. Problem solved, real and simple.
And you are 100 percent positive that the original problem wasn't the valve stem,or bead leaks-the two points of seal for a tubeless tire aside from it's own inner-liner?See,because properly remedying these issues would've also been a really simple way to solve the problem as well.Just out of curiosity,what type of tire are you talking about?
ointlaughI see that I replied without realizing who I was replying to.My mistake,fresh out of bed this morning.Could very well have been an o-ring issue.Again,very easily remedied.Only exception being if the assembly had been run flat long enough(at one time or progressively either way) to wear away the ridge on the bead band(assuming a three piece wheel which would've been OE on said machine) that the o-ring seals against.If this were the case,tubing is the only option short of replacing the wheel part.Another remote possibility is a cracked wheel.It does happen.Never personally seen it on a grader-mostly on wheel loaders and haul trucks.Had it happen once on a 637 scraper.The lube guy goes to change the lube in the planetary,& when he's removing the plug,it shoots out at him like a bullet.Rim base cracked behind the plate and air leaked from the tire into the planetary gear housing,building pressure.Bottom line,tubes are a LAST RESORT.:IMO:deadhorse