Just purchased an older (570A-07522t) grader and not sure where the control is for the saddle pins or where the hydraulic tank is.
Well from memory,the saddle pin control was a switch on the cab floor with a flip up cover and the hydraulics didn't have a tank as it used oil from the transmission. Terry
There sure are a lot of those 570 Deeres on the used market getting down cheap these days. I am tempted to try one, but I just don't know enough about them to make an informed decision. I suspect the early 570 trannies have roots in the Ford Selecto-Speed tractor transmissions, which proved a little weak in the hands of all but the most astute operators. It's like if you get a good one, you're good to go. get a bad one, you're gonna eat the whole enchilada. Best of luck with yours, Hat six.
Anyone familiar with a manufacturer's transmission upgrade for the 570 Deere?
Well going back to my farmer days now... The 570A powershift is exactly the same bullet proof transmission Deere put in their old mid 60s to mid 80s farm tractors. I have seen a few of them torn apart but not many. They were pretty good units. I have a 570A with untold hours that I have had for 10 years or so. I have rammed and jammed it plowing snow and grading crappy Alaska roads for as long as it has been here. I am pretty sure the tranny is not the weak point of the old girl. There are however the normal John Deere external lubrication issues characteristic its time. Almost every one I have seen leaks hydraulic/tranny oil between the engine and rear gear box. Mine goes through about 10-15 gallons per year. The engine is also pretty easy to work on. I think it is the same engine as the old 4030 JD farm tractor. Never saw one that didn't make at least 10,000 hrs. I think the 570 is a great little blade and will keep this one around. I have been told the 670 is probably one you don't want to mess with. I have been told it has the same tranny with about twice as much power. I suspect that is more than it wants. If you do buy either one make sure you use the right transmission oil. Regular hydraulic oil will take out the tranny. I would also suggest you run the tranny oil samples before you buy it if possible. You will notice a jerk when when you shift from 2 to 3. That is just a range change and is normal. There is a less severe jerk between a couple of the higher gears as well. This is also a range change. Don't let that bother you it is normal. We ran the old farm tractors with front loaders for years and years. Never had one broken and believe me some of the feed lot cowboys were heavy on the spurs. Good luck!
Didn't they have the electric switches for moldboard side shift and something else? I seem to recall a friend of mine cussing because he had to replace some brand new curb and gutter due to the side shift switch sticking at an inopportune moment.
The 570 and 570A have typical JD tee handle that controls sideshift and circle turning motor. 570B has cat style controls. I sort of like the old JD controls because both blade lift controls are close together and operated by one hand. Not sure why they went back to cat controls.
Seems like JD led the way with articulating equipment steering on the 570. Combined with lean wheel they beat out the AW for a tight turning radius. Very popular machine with all needed parts still readily available forty years on. If they have been shown a little love, they are dependable machines that can be economical to operate and hold their resale value. I'm good for about four hours in one before my arms and mental concentration give out. Less on a hot day. My theory on the B model hyd. controls change was to keep some of the heat from the hyd. lines out of the cab. May be a little more leverage on the controls too. I do like the one handed blade lifts, but not so sure about that T-handle.
Adjacent blade lift levers were also used on the Allis Chalmers Model D. Personally, I liked that set up as it resulted in less wasted motion by working one arm and not two. The T-hanndle was used by Deere on some dozers like the 450C for blade lift and angle control, and probably forward curl function on six-way machines. No problems here either. I have read enough on this thread to convince me to try a 570. Seems like most of the complaints against them come from disgruntled CAT owners. Prices are certainly reasonable for used 570's. The problem is they all seem to be somewhere far, far away.
The physical size is apealling to me, I have quite a few miles of forestry roads that might be alot easier to maintain with somthing that size.
I love the 570A and have spent many hours in them while in the military. I would love to have one now but just can't justify the money for a machine that would only be a toy for me with an occasional paying job.
Does anyone know if the transmission in a JD 570A is exactly the same as in any agriculture machines? In other words will it bolt into the machine and operate correctly. I have a 1978 John Deere 570A that has a bad transmission and the replacement from parts machines that I have found are too expensive.......perhaps a transmission from an agriculture machine would be easier to find and cheaper.......any thoughts..thanks
Love the 570 graders. we have two 570A's in our fleet. The tranny oil is also used to run the hydraulics. The saddle pin release on ours is on the right side floor panel. Sad to say I have not got ours to work because the pin is rush in. I like the controls on them. so nice and easy to run with one hand one the wheel and one running the blade. They are a nice sized machine for small jobs and roads.
Can anyone tell me about the saddle pin on a 79 model 570 A. The blade is in float and pins are free and the hyd hose show pressure when you step on the control but the pins won't release. I have put new o rings in but still no movement
the pins could be rusted up in the saddle. That is how ours are from lack of use.
Same with mine. The dealer recommended bringing it in, they would try an impact hammer and if that didn't work, lance the pins out, =$$$. Decided it wasn't worth it. Reading the operators manual, you are doing everything right. I think that the problem is in the way the pin release system was designed. Number one was having two smaller pins instead of one and if my understanding is right, the pins operate slowly when working. The technical manual indicates that an "imbalance in pressure causes the pins to retract" which indicates to me that it can not overcome a lot of resistance. I heard that articulating the frame while in the retract mode can free up the pins for operation. Didn't work for me My other thoughts include that mine is a thirty year old plus machine that plows snow and keeps the road in good shape at the right price, I don't need to be adding more stress to the components with the blade out at 50 degrees pulling a back slope. Keep it simple works best for me.
I can't tell you, but you could spend a little (lot?) of time on jdparts.com and compare the internal part numbers to see what's the same, might have the same internals and have to swap the guts into the original case? I was looking into the same question on a "similar?" jd transmission, but when I dug into it it was an easy fix, so I don't know just how bad it could have been. By the way, what's wrong with yours? how much do you trust the diagnosis?
570 A saddle pins The pins are free. The cylinders are re-sealed and the hoses have hydraulic pressure but the pins won't retract. It appears the pins have constant pressure to hold them in and when you float the blade, step on the button the hydraulic pressure is reversed and the pins retract. My guess is the problem is in the cylinders or perhaps not getting enough hydraulic pressure Thanks for your reply
Both saddle lock cylinders have pressure on both ends until you press the plunger in the saddle lock valve and the pressure on the back side is routed to return. Try disconnecting the lines one at a time on the back side of the saddle lock pin/cylinder and plug the line. If the pin retracts the problem will be in the pin retract foot valve or the return line is blocked or plumbed incorrectly. If the pins don't retract the problem could be that no pressure is on the front side. Let me know if this helps at all.
I'm sure the clutch packs and brake packs are the same physical size but the ratios in the Ag tractors could be different. You would have to compare the part #'s for the clutch packs and brake packs/planetary assemblies to know. Unless the planetary for the brake packs and C3 clutch is bad those transmissions can usually be repaired pretty reasonably. Aftermarket clutches, seperator plates, piston seals and gaskets, etc. are available from Deere dealers and other places. Tell them you want the A- ( A dash ) parts. If the pump and input shaft are ok and the planetary are ok repairing may be the best option.
I’m sure you’ve realized by now, you were responding to a thread from 13 years ago. While that may be a new record, it does bring up new stuff. Lol
No, I didn't realize that until now. I'll have to remember to look at the dates!