Hi. For our recycling plant, we just bought two brand new JD skid steer loaders. After about two weeks use, they both started overheating, and are now almost always in the red. There are two radiators, forming a V shape, at the back of the machine. As the title implies, one of them is pristine clean, and the other one is completely clogged up. No doubt the cause of the overheating is the clogged radiator, but the mystery is why is it always clogged? 3 different mechanics from John Deere came over to try to figure it out. It`s the right-side radiator that is clogged. The mechanic tried to make a modification, making large holes in a plate that holds some kind of filter in front of the radiator, to have a better air flow. It didn`t change anything. It is a conception flaw for sure, because both of our machines have the exact same thing happening. Now, from the pictures, does anyone have a guess of what could be the problem? It seems like something is creating some kind of humidity on the right-side radiator. But what? Even is diesel was being dropped by operators when they refuel, there is a border that would not let it spill onto the radiator. We are just all puzzled and really scratcing our heads with this one. Any help would be appreciated. It might not be visible, but the left radiator (where there is the hydraulic oil reservoir with the orange cap) is pristine clean inside, and the right one is completely clogged. Same on both machines. Links to the same images in case you can zoom better with them: 1 http://i66.tinypic.com/f3dfrn.jpg 2 http://i64.tinypic.com/1127tqs.jpg 3 http://i67.tinypic.com/20frp0n.jpg 4 http://i68.tinypic.com/2n83zo.jpg We would all say that it has to do with airflow, but literally every single hole in the right radiator is clogged with dust that seems very slightly humid, and every single hole in the left one is clean. So can`t just be an airflow problem.... Yes there is a lot of dust in this work environment but we`ve never had this problem before (used to own Bobcat brand loaders). Thanks MATTL
How have you cleaned the clogged radiator ? Air ? Water ? Could radiator have a oil film from manufacturing ? Condensate from air conditioner ? Overflow from coolant tank ? Where is the cooling air intake located? What is the dust clogging radiator ? paper, dirt ? A model number may help get you better suggestions.
Thank you for the answer. For now we have only been using compressed air to clean the radiators. Of course if we can find the underlying cause of this phenomenon, we will do a more thorough cleaning. There is no air conditioner installed on this model. The coolant tank has not overflown. The dust is mostly fiber dust. Paper dust. Cardboard dust. The cooling air intake is the black cylinder on the top. Every work shift cleans their machine at least once with compressed air, so that`s three times a day. There is no water in the compressed air. I don`t have the model number on me right now unfortunately
Whenever I have seen a radiator look like this, there is usually something mixing in the air like fuel or oil - but a new machine shouldn't have this issue..... Were other machines you used in the past configured like this, with the fan sucking air through the radiators? Or more traditional pushing air through them?
On the Bobcat models the fan was horizontal, pushing air upwards through horizontal radiators. This model has a reversible fan, which is currently set to 10 minutes. Nothing humid gets pushed inside the machine though so the humidity definitely comes from some phenomenon near the radiator..
I am not well mechanically versed, so wouldn`t know precisely what to call it, but on the last picutre, the device that is belt driven, behind what i believe would be a fuel filter, has the same kind of layering of damp caked-up dust.
That would be the alternator. It makes electricity. And it shouldn't be damp either. I would try to collect as much of the dust as I could and squeeze some of the liquid out of it. Is it slippery like fuel? Thick like oil? Sticky like coolant? Is the machine loosing any fluids it shouldn't be? The fuel filter being right there does make me suspicious.
Looks like an "E" series? Does the fan turn at full speed when hot? As a test, you can unplug the coolant sensor and the fan should go to full speed. Does your machine have the auto reversing fan option? Is it enabled? In a trash application a reversing fan is a must. I would wash everything real good and make sure there are no leaks from anywhere that could be getting onto the radiator. Any dampness on the fins will be a dust magnet.
Which side is the crankcase vent on? Wouldn't take much steamed oil sucked through a radiator to collect a lot of paper dust. I had a JD 8875 that vented along the block. It was horrible about plugging the radiator til I stretched the vent hose out beyond the radiator. John
Interesting problem. Since you had three mechanics out there, I would assume if the issue was easy it would be solved by now. Here is an idea. Power wash the machine and get it clean and DRY. Get powder dry dirt and take a blower fan like you would see to dry out a house out or blow smoke from a house fire and start the fan, "dump the dry as flour" dirt in front of the fan and into the area that the radiator takes in air. Run the SSL at full RPM, dump and repeat. Shut it down and look at what the dry dirt sticks to. If there is a leak somewhere the dry dirt should make that apparent.
Thank you for all the suggestions. Sorry it took a while to reply. To answer the questions: Yes the fan runs full speed Yes the fan is reversible and I have set it at an interval of 10 minutes (the fan reverses for 15 seconds, then goes back to its original direction). 10 minutes is the minimum. There really are no apparent leaks at all on any of the machines. The theory that I find interesting is JD8875`s, especially since it happened on a machine of his. It seems to make a lot of sense. Any possibility to go into more details on that crankcase vent potential problem? Where would the steamed oil come out from? Is it visible on the pictures I have posted? The model is either 320G or 324G. It`s really a fantastic machine and it operates very well. We just want to find the cause of this particular issue.
On my machine it was a rubber hose from the valve cover down the left side of the engine. It appeared to run under the engine but stopped just short of the bottom of the oil pan. Not sure how the newer machines are set up, mine was a 95 model 8875. It caused me more than a few headaches before I found what was causing my issue. I looked in your photos but couldn't see anything I could positively ID as a vent hose. John
Can anyone confirm these are both cooling system radiators? I would expect one to be a turbo intercooler, or transmission oil cooler, and to be a different fin spacing than the engine antifreeze radiator. Otherwise the crankcase vent is a good place to check. If it vents to the atmosphere, then it will usually be about 3/4" and hang down the side of the engine, look underneath and it should be coated with oily paper fuzz. If it feeds into the air intake, for emissions reasons, then it wouldn't be causing a problem. Either way, this should be a dealer problem on a new machine IMHO.
That engine has a closed crankcase system. The vent hose runs from the valve cover to the intake. I'll double check when I get to work since I am working on one right now. Radiator is on the right side of the machine with the oil cooler on the left side. If it had AC (which I don't see in the picture) the condenser would be on the engine side of the cooler.
Here are some pictures of the crankcase ventilation on a 329E with an iT4 Yanmar. Your "G" would be the same. I attached a parts page from a non turbo Yanmar showing the closed crankcase ventilation. Also the "E" I am working on has debris stuck in the radiator as you can see.
I realize this is an old post. I am having the same issue running my 2018 John Deere 331G. It’s a great machine but it runs hot after 2-3 hours of farm work with the smooth or grapple bucket. We clean the radiator daily with a pressure washer. Most weeks we use the machine less than 10 hours but it gets annoying when we need to use it for 8 hours in a day. If anyone knows of a flaw that’s causing the radiator to constantly clog, please share.
Welcome to HEF Orchard ! First thing to check if a thorough cleaning doesn't solve your issue is the fan speed. We would need to establish that it is reaching full speed. Unplugging the fan speed control solenoid and measuring fan speed with a photo tach is how to check it. What is your serial number? Do you have the reversing fan option?
I have a 331g with same issue I live in Florida so it's mostly sand, it just started happening but the display with say "stop engine overheat", I do have the reversing fan option. I pressed the fan switch but nothing happened, so I'm trying to figure out if maybe something might be wrong with the fan, its a 2019 331g with AC
Welcome to HEF JD331G ! Need a serial number. Year means nothing in the equipment world. You said the reversing fan is not working? Is the fan turning when idling? Also look at post #17.
1T0331GKCKF348943 I'm not completely sure the reverse in not working I leave it on auto but when I pressed the switch down nothing happened when i hopped out but apparently you have to hold it for 10s. The fan is turning when Idle and I get about an hours worth of work before engine temp gets to about 215 and then i park it before I get the alarm. Not much dirt on the radiator at all, it has 1088h. I blew out the radiator then washed them with garden hose but didnt seem to help. Ill check the fan speed, how fast should i be measuring?
Do I need to unplug the cylinoid or can i measure while its turning? Does it only have 1 fan speed it turns at?
What full speed should the fan be running at and if its not what do you think would cause that?
Either the fan speed solenoid or the hydraulic temperature sensor needs to be unplugged. Then reflective tape needs to be installed on the the fan for a photo tach. With the hydraulic oil at 150* F and the engine at fast idle the fan speed needs to be a minimum of 2450 rpm. Also did you confirm temperatures with an infrared temperature gun to make sure you are in fact getting that hot and it is not a sensor issue?
Thanks for the info, no i didn't confirm but what exactly would i measure the temp of? I have a FLIR thermal imager i can use. Isn't the engine overheat a measurement of the engine oil? is that what i would measure?
Measure the temperature of the block, head, thermostat outlet to the radiator, and water pump inlet from the radiator. The first three should be over 200F and the inlet should be somewhat less. Post the numbers. engine overheat on a water cooled engine is the coolant temperature getting into the temperature range where it can boil. Boiling coolant is BAD. Air cooled, or oil cooled engines can run much hotter, it's not the metal that overheats at 240, it's the cooling system that fails, and then metal overheats closer to 1,000.
The engine overheat light comes on when i get close to 220 that about 10 degrees from the red zone that sets the alarm off. The hydraulic oil temp rarely gets up to 150, but ill take some thermal images and post on here. Thanks
yes, should have said, measure when you're as hot as you usually get it, so if you run till the light comes on and the gauge says 220, then the block and head should be real close to 220. The radiator return temp will tell you how things are working also.
Neat photos, Doesn't say much to me other than radiator is cooling. And air flow of the fan is at the blades. Take a Look at the engine block.
Good evening, I realize this is an old post if I should be posting on another thread I'd be appreciative for any pointers. However, I was hopeful this thread might lead me to a solution to my issue then I got to the last page so here it is, perhaps someone here might be able to lead me in the right direction to an on going issue I am having with a 2017 333G SN 1T0333GMEHF309290 AC, Turbo, Closed cab, etc. The machine performs good with a 4n1 bucket, replace it with a 2021 MH60D mulcher I purchased new instead and it's a whole other story. Stop engine light comes one within 45mins to 1.5hrs depending outside temp, Fall/Winter it runs much better. It seems the system does not cool the hydraulic oil quick enough to operate the mulcher within temp range. Hydraulic flow meter states correct flow per spec., radiator has been removed and redone by radiator shop, hydraulic system has been filter caddied, primary and secondary air filters are clean and practically new, radiator and cooler veins compressed air cleaned and high pressure washer cleaned without damage to veins, cleaned under cab so no dirt or any other leaks at hydraulics or pump area etc., upgraded hydraulic pump, fan shroud and intake. This issues seems more like an over working hydraulic oil temp problem causing the engine to excessively hence overheating vs a single air intake clogged radiator air restriction overheating problem. Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks ahead for reading.
A mulcher is a huge power user, and a 4 in 1 bucket uses no power basically. the only thing I can come up with, is to check the temps going to the radiator and coming back from the radiator, so use a non contact thermometer and shoot the thermostat housing, and the water pump inlet, WHEN it's as hot as you get it, so when the stop engine light comes on, immediately, and then watch it at medium speed for a few minutes to see how fast it cools off and what temp it reaches. Post that back here and go from there. wouldn't hurt to check the hydraulic oil temps at the cooler at the same time. Codes? any codes?
I think an overheating hydraulic system is fixed by increasing the oil cooling. More radiator, but this may increase flow resistance i.e. pressure drop. Then more volume as in larger tank to reduce oil shear (more oil volume slows oil degradation) and give the oil more cooling surface. an auxiliary tank is also a good spot to install additional cooling loop independent of the working system.
Welcome to HEF DM79 ! If you are overheating only when running high flow attachments, then contact your dealer and ask them to look into a factory initiated policy (FIP 22-098) on the subject. Also, ask them to look at Deere solution 216764. They both are new and deal with a change in the fan drive motor and fan blade to increase fan speed specifically for that application. Do note, however, the fan pump will still have to be flow tested to eliminate that as an issue first.
I appreciate these comments. Prior to redoing the radiator I did just that, check temp at inlet and outlet and there was a large difference and John Deere verified temps upon new install. I have contemplated installing an additional oil cooler, however this model should push the head as designed. I am already highly frustrated with machine and not willing to invest more into it. This may be the FIP the dealer recently performed with the pump, intake, shroud redesign, fan, etc. along with photo tach on the fan but I will check into the the numbers of both. I will recheck this and the hydraulic temp as well. I will start with these prospective solutions and report back. First this morning again we thoroughly cleaned all veins of air and hydraulic cooling system with extreme compressed air. Operators are trying the mulcher for coolelr with morning temps and if it doesn't function properly we'll switch to a brush hog I sent to the job, brush hog 21 gpm standard flow vs mulcher 41 gpm.
Is the fan white or black in color? If it is white, then you do not have the updated setup. If the fan is black, then you should have the updated setup. Has the fan speed been recorded on any of your paperwork? Be advised that if the update has not been done, performing the update will not be a warrantable expense, as far as I know. It will cost $$.
Still no fixes yet, still running hot about mid day with the 41GPM attachment and not with the 21 GPM attachment. Upon this previous reply I dug into the FIP mentioned and the fan color being white etc. I found this FIP had not been performed during a major previous FIP. Parts are ordered as of yesterday and install to be schedule immediately thereafter. I appreciate the help and I will touch base once completed.
Hi guys, I know this is an old thread, but no one has posted after resolving the issue. I hope one of you guys or another reader might be willing to share a solution that worked. I have been dealing with my 2018 John Deere 331G overheating since purchasing it in 2020 with 1700 hours. The machine is standard flow, has been well maintained, and currently has 2400 hours. It is routinely used for lot clean up with a brush cutter and grapple. Most months one or two jobs are done that take 10-20 hours of machine time. Regardless of the task or how clean the radiators are when starting a job, when the temperature is above 80 degrees the machine can not be used for an entire workday without overheating. In order to make use of the machine, the radiators are blown out daily with a back pack blower and after each job the radiators and and all other areas that can tolerate water are cleaned with a pressure washer. The machine is then allowed to thoroughly dry before running it. Assuming the lack of a reversing fan was the source of the problem and installing one is not recommended my local service department, I have been trying to live with it, but would like to find a solution. As suggested, I am going to investigate if there could be any oil or other residue and fan speed. I have called the service department and was informed PIP 22-098 did not apply to my serial number and Deere solution 216764, is a fan system upgrade that is specific to overheating when running high demand attachments. I will further investigate the specs of the fan upgrade and may purchase it. Before doing so, I would appreciate hearing about what has been tried, whether it was successful or not. In short, if anyone reading this has found a solution that allows a John Deere Skid Steer, CTL, to be used for longer intervals with less frequent radiator cleaning, please share it.
Welcome to HEF OneHotG ! Start with a complete machine serial number. This is needed for accurate information gathering. Plus I can check what is and is not available for your machine as far as PIP's, fan upgrades, etc. Is it the engine that overheats, the hydraulics, both? Has it been confirmed with an infrared temperature reading? In the future, please start a new thread rather than piggy backing an old one. Plus, your post should have been opened in the compact track loader section, not the skid steer.