First off, thanks for the Add. Learned a ton my short time here. No stranger to mechanical work, but first "larger" machine. Tractors, track loader. Tigg'R 2016 CAT 305.5e2 CR 6865 hrs (verified by CAT dealer) CAT3055EJCR500854 Lived its whole life out of the Las Vegas area Our intended work is around the properties. Tree removal, clearing and general digging. Everything works as advertised. Bucket needs some help, and the manual quick connect needs some cleaning up (which we removed) Under the covers all looks fantastic, no "recent washing" no leaks. Purchased all the replaceable filters from CAT dealer (ouch) Oil, Inner/Outter Air, both fuel, Hydraulic return, Engine Breather (looked original) and Cabin No blowby coming out of oil fill while running. Changed out the: Engine Oil Partial Hydraulic (could get to the tank drain) Final drives Greased everything up, check track tension and went to work. SiL and I are clearing our properties, and he is expanding the one acre pond. I want thank @Baxsie for documenting his journey. It motivated me to document mine. I plan on changing the fluids again after about 25-30 hours of use and sending them off for analysis. There was an analysis submitted with the auction, but I can't find it at the moment. I have already purchased the Operators manual and Service manuals. I have a couple little things to address as time permits, cracked plastics, door latch slop, etc. I am open to all comments and suggestions. Thanks again Keith
Genuine ones or clones.? The OEM Service Manual contains the Operation & Maintenance Manual. Welcome BTW.
Welcome to the adventure! I think the 305.5E2-CR is much more prevalent around here. Probably a safer financial bet than my Chinese 305.5E2 (not CR).
PDF versions from SIS.
That must have taken somebody a while to produce. Been there, done that.
Hey ZooDad: Wish I had been as thorough checking out the Kubota U55-4 I purchased used--but did hire a moonlighting Kubota mechanic to come to my property and do a complete 3000 hr service (and walk me through everything) at 2000 hrs. just to protect my investment. It looks like you bought a very capable, clean machine. Nice job. A couple of thoughts based on my learning curve clearing land. BTW: my experience level given some of the pros on this site is maybe a 3 out of 10. So take what I say with a grain of salt. 1) Carefully study trees, tree geometry, gravity, etc... before taking anything of size down. And, be careful not to hit hydraulic lines/fittings on the boom and stick as you most into brush and tree limbs. 2) When clearing heavy brush, go slow so that you can clearly see hill slope, hidden rocks and objects, and things that can damage your equipment. 3) consider buying a brush mower. I bought the RUT Manufacturing 36" economy brush mower (they put the correct mount on it for my Kubota). It didn't need a third hydraulic "case drain" return line--which meant it was a plug and play since the Kubota was plumbed with additional stick hydraulic connections. It's a simple machine but a beast and will make brush clearing and maintenance quick work. I paid $3500 with shipping included. 4) wear a seatbelt. Seems obvious--but our sized excavators can get tossed around a bit. If you're not belted in a bad situation can become worse quickly. 5) if you're cutting and back-dragging a road where the uphill bank is more than a couple of feet high then make sure the uphill cut is angled back toward the hill at least 15 degrees. That way you won't inadvertently drag your engine bonnet against the uphill bank or tree roots sticking out--defacing your machine (ask me how I know!). Have a blast! I think the excavator is an amazingly versatile piece of equipment. Not great for dental work though. A
Here's pic of the brush mower. It easily knocks down brush and tree limbs to about 2". It's not a finesse machine but gets the job done. The price was right.
@Allan M Thanks for the info. I actually have a Takehuchi TL12V2 with a forestry mulcher hear that a friend is letting me use. It is an animal. I definitely wont be taking down any large trees, that's what chainsaws are for. There are only a couple areas with any appreciable slope. We have probably 50 downed trees on the property I am in the process of cleaning up. Here is a "piece" of one of the trees. That is a 24" bucket for reference.
I'm jealous of the forestry mulcher! It probably does a great job. A little out of my price range though. I've taken down many oak that are 1.5 to 2' in diameter by digging tap roots and pushing these over. It saves the chain saw routine. Then make sure these are stacked off the ground and harvest for fire wood a year or two later (of course with a chain saw). It looks like you're well acclimated to using an excavator. It's interesting how many downed trees are simply out there in the wilderness. Nature is constantly pruning. Enjoy!
Ok. Changed the engine oil/filter and final drive oils today. (About 50 hours) Oil was dark (expected) Final drives looked good also. The thing that is interesting is the final drives only took 22oz. Manual call for 33 (1 liter) I tilted the machine towards the draining side and then leveled and filled. Rotated the track several rotations both directions. Did the opposite side. Checked the oil level on the first side and it was full. Same on second side. Will check levels after a couple hours of use.
Not too bad of a start
You may not be aware but all capacities listed in the manual are only approximate, and yes it would be nice if the approximations were a bit closer to reality. Always fill to the dipstick markings, sight glass, or whatever other method the manual specifies.
@Nige Totally agree. Just thought 33% difference was odd.
Based on past experience I’d lay odds that it’s a number calculated by the company who built the final drive and has never actually been confirmed, simply taken on trust by the OEM.
The spiderweb hard facing on the bucket side cutter area is cool. Just might have to copy that idea.
So my OCD kicked in. The door latch has slop (wear) in it. When you pull it at the end of the cycle it take a snap to get it open. I took the handle latch out and could see the two wear points. I need to to take up some space. So I came up with this I cut the ends off a heat shrink butt connector. First one slid right over. I had to split the second to put it over the first. It’s solid and not going anywhere. And the door opens very nicely now. ZooDad
Wow, we going to Disney Land?
Moving along. Got this big standing dead oak dug around and pushed over ZooDad