I do a great deal of drainage ditch cleanout and have always struggled with keeping the bucket cutting level as I'm pulling it in to cut the bottom width. Grade is not an issue since I have a Spectra LB60 plumb compensating receiver. I've tried marking the stick and bucket mounts, one of those cheap slope gauges that show cross-slope, and having the receiver mounted to the bucket. I did upgrade to a tilt bucket this season and with the top of that bucket being flat it is considerably easier than a normal bucket. Just looking for any other ideas some of you might have out there. I've been running hoe for over 20 years so some would say I should know where level is but I'm just looking to be a little more peoductive, and maybe a little better fit and finish. Any advice appreciated.
It's all about reference points, find a piece of steel on the bucket that is parallel to the ground.
It doesn't have to be parallel to the ground. Just visually lock in a reference point that is going match up every time you want the bucket flat. If you haven't locked it in after 2-3 days weld a couple of tabs on the bucket/stick pin collar that will line up when the bucket is flat, paint them a bright color. If that still isn't doing the trick make an appointment for the eye doctor.
Check out Excavision. We have it on one of our mini's that we use for sidewalk grade and need to be pretty precise. It works pretty well. Never really saw the need on bigger machines though.
I agree with bigshow & David427. I like pulling in the stick lever at steady speed and boom lever adjusting up and down to stay level. Watch the top of the bucket or side cutters next to the original ground as you pull stick towards you. You just have to adjust if bottom grade is not parallel with original grade. If you are v -ditching the original ground maybe to far away from bottom grade, so shelf down near the center of cut and reference bottom grade to shelf leaving bottom 1 inch high, then grade slope and scrape bottom last.
Call it complete stupidity on my part but after realizing the vertical plumb feature and trying it with the receiver on a mast attached perfectly plumb to the bucket problem solved. Plus added feature of being able to cut grade at full reach or right up to the tracks.
Figured I'd jump into this pic thing. I can move the mast to either side.
What you can also do is to set one length or cut manually then take half a bucket at a time, that way the existing floor acts as a benchmark, you could also practice pulling your bucket in in a straight line at eye level to get more control over the machine It's all practice