Hi, recently had a broken gear in the transmission. Rtlo 18 speed, reman trans and new itr 2050 clutch. Set the clutch to 1/2 and 1/8 with 1-1/2 free pedal and won’t release all the way. I’ve tried 9/16 to 7/16 gap and still grinds going in and the truck will mildly lurch. The new parts have less than 20 miles. Any thoughts? Break in?
Once I’ve set the gap between the bearing and clutch brake I don’t generally mess with a free travel measurement. I make sure it contacts the brake when pushed all the way down. Free travel is mainly there so that when it torques up it doesn’t pull on the linkage causing the clutch the slip. What kind of shape is all the linkage in?
All the linkage is in great shape. All the adjustments are in spec. But still won’t fully release. Once in gear semi hard to get out
All of your measurements were good to begin with, 1.5 to 2.0 inches free is plenty. But I have the nasty feeling a driven plate is in backwards. I always mark with paint stick. FWS or PPS
Odd, they were both here long after I posted then--poof!
Would there be any way to check without pulling the transmission?
Perhaps with a bore scope?
Unfortunately no--But I have a feeling it's going to be slid back and down anyway. Because these angle spring clutches rarely have issues when new, unless it is a diaphragm style pressure plate. One other possibility is pilot bearing suffered on installation or was it changed? I only install trans/ clutch as a unit as shown in photo, only thing to line up is pilot bearing dowel then slowly install clutch cover/pressure plate bolts through bell housing inspection cover hole, rotating engine until all bolts are started then running them down a little at a time till cover is seated to flywheel then rotate again torquing to 55 lb ft. * The hubs on each driven plate are slightly longer on one side on both, if flipped it can cause hubs to touch causing a slight lock up {both are not floating on input shaft} plus it throughs off the area of paddle contact to intermediate plate. I always mark direction of intermediate plate with a arrow pointing towards pressure plate too, by the book those are installed one way too. As the clutch bolts are drawn down and pressure plate mates to flywheel the two wood blocks between throwout bearing and pressure plate usually just fall out with a properly machined flywheel, which is a good sign, because throwout bearing to clutch brake distance is real close on final bolt torquing. The other thing is flywheel mounting bolt head distance to center spring damper of front driven plate, those cannot touch, if flywheel has been machined too much that changes that distance and can cause same effect. * I haven't installed a transmission with clutch already bolted to flywheel since early 80's. Pushing a input shaft through the two driven plates with all the angles involved during installation can damage drive hubs. 15.5 clutches can be installed that way, 14.0 clutches cannot. Hopefully you find something simple so as not to have to remove.
I really appreciate your help on this I’ll let you know what I find
I'm not telling you to pull it, that is strictly your decision.
Must be pretty slow.