Well I got the undercarriage squared away for now but another problem has risen. While working the other day, the machine seemed like it was lugging, throwing black smoke and didn't have the power that it normally does. I figured it was a fuel filter so I changed it, drained in water in the seperator, and cleaned the filter in the banjo fitting on the fuel pump. Long story short, this changed nothing. I kept working for about 10 min after the fuel filter change until a error code popped up on the screen saying "Pump P2 Propo Valve" with the letters "PSV" in a box next to it and a small "E2" on top of the box. When this code popped up the left track immediatly started acting up (it would only turn very slowly in either direction). The right track was still fine. After a few min. the left track started working again, and the code went away. Shortly thereafter the code came back on but the left track was working fine. All the while, hydraulic performance seemed down and the machine was blowing black smoke. The machine is now sitting b/c I dont want to screw anything up. I also cleaned the pilot filter to no effect. Now that yall are thoroughly confused... what do you think???
I think this machine has a Kawasaki pump which is controlled by one solenoid for each section. Anyway it sounds like a wiring issue or problem coil in the solenoid. There should be a wire connecting to each solenoid on the pump. Make sure it is making good contact. If it is follow the wiring harness through the machine looking for worn spots or oil soakings. There is probably a specification for resistance through the coil or a milliamp reading range. I don't have that info so maybe someone else could supply it. Good Luck!
Thanks, Ill check the wiring today...
kobelco pump that machine has two solenoids one for each half of the main pump check the one on the second half of the pump kobelco numbers them from the engine out the solenoids do go bad we have changed a few of them but we have several thousand machine out
Would this solenoid cause the machine to seem like its running under a high load even when it isnt? what about a picture of the solenoid. I think I know where the solenoid is but am not totally sure.
Checked the wiring... all seemed ok. Removed the solenoid... the plunger seemed like it would not move all the way out when i would plug it into the harness with the key on. Does this mean the solenoid is bad?
solenoid The solenoids are porportional and get there signal from the cpu so they move different amounts to keep the pump stroked and not lug the engine down you could try switching them and see if the problem changes sides it could need the software reloaded in the computer or just reset.
Good idea, ill try that next. So the solenoids on pump 1 and pump 2 are the same?
What Now?? I swapped the two solenoids (pump 1 & 2) but the error readout still said there was a problem with pump # 2. So I guess replacing the solenoid thats acting up a new one won't solve the problem
pump problem No it won't you either have trouble in the wireing or with the controller need to have someone with a lap top and software plug into it and check to see what is going wrong
your machine does not require a laptop to access and troubleshoot. the servicemans diagnostic check screens are already made available in the cab display monitor. provide the ser# yq09-u or yq08-u or yq07-u? i can help isolate your problem. once i know ser# i can picture your cab. then i can explain which buttons you press to access. on the sk210 if you simply unplug the harness psv-1 or psv-2 the hyd pump will load up to 2,000 psi+ the fault code is telliong you the computer has sensed a problem. after 5-10 seconds after it sees by scanning the circuits the fault code pops up. if you switched the psv-1 & psv-2 wires only and the fault code remains saying pump 2 then the wiring is broken connection or grounding out enough to the frame of the machine to cause issue. look in the pump compartment at the harness as it goes over the frame under the bell hsng. it likes to rub into wires there. check bare spots and if wire is good electrical tape and protect. this should be fixed asap. if not you will burn out your hyd pump!
by the way left track is controlled by pump 2. the fault code you are getting is in direct relation to the mistracking of the machine. when i get you into the display i can make other checks to better your machine.
did you swap the solenoids or just simply the wiring to the solenoids? the solenoids are the same. if you swapped the proportional solenoids and the code stayed e2 then the solenoid is okay. if solenoid was bad the code should have changed to e1. note all wiring connections have what i call a pigeon tag remove paint and tag etched with letters that correspond with the electrical wiring diagram. pump 1 is closest to the engine, pump 2 is nearest you. small pump is for your pilot controls (p3). keep me posted.
diagonstic Yes there are checks you can do with the monitor but there also have been a lot of issues with the software programing on some of those machines and there is nothing you can do with that sometimes all it takes if a reprogram of the cpu. and maybe a upgrade to the newest software version and that will also make the machine preform better also
Mr. Kobelco, I switched the actual solenoids and the fault code stayed the same. I was afraid switching the wiring could screw something up worse than it already is. I will get the serial number for you asap as the machine is down until I get this fixed. Thanks.
I do know the serial number starts with "YQ07-u", Ill get the rest asap.
pump problem YQo7U is one of the early sn for the Dynamic Acera machines
Alright, the serial number is YQ07-U0506 I started looking for a problem with the wiring today and didnt get too far. It seems like following the wire from pump to controller could be quite a job.
hey, you should pay very close attention to the wiring where it travels over the frame from the pump comp and between the engine. i have had a few of your generation machine shafe into the frame causing just enough short changing the current/feedback to the computer. check that section of harness 1st. also, when in the cab, turn the key on, do not start the machine, press the buzzer stop button 10X. list all your error codes on the first page recorded by machine hours. press the buzzer stop button again list and again etc...you will know when all has been displayed for they will start over at the last recorded error. send me an e-mail of your list ps/ buzzer stop button is the yellow button just below your mode change button on the r/h console. an arrow with an "X" crossed thru it. [email protected] then, turn off the key, then press the buzzer stop button and hold, whilst holding down turn the key on do not start...this is your maintenance screens...no laptop necessary for right now....on the bottom of page 1 record vers # .##? then, still with the key off, press the blue screen change display button should bring you to page 2, then again, and again, when you get to the pressure sensors, check to ensure they are reading 0.4~0.5V & 0 (zero)k. 1 k = 14.223 psi theory = key on, engine not running, no pump flow = zero pressure if your sensors, especially the nega-con or c-1/c-2 sensors read higher than zero chances are they have failed and require replacement. they are not cheap but definitely need to be switched out. hp sensors are on pump outlets tagged se-22 & se-23 nega-con are se-27 & se-28. pump 1 and 2 respectively. keep pressing blue display button and watch for e-1 pump propovalve scrn# 25? and compare readings with the next screen for pump 2 (e2). they are supposed to be identical if not suspect wiring as i mentioned earlier. all checks are at your fingers and i will aid. by the way, if you start the engine when you're on scrn 14 -> c-1/c-2 hp sensors the readings in neutral not moving anythins should be also identical. if you unplug the one propo valve the hyd pump strokes up and you'll be around 2000 psi. 2000 divided by 14.223 = # k bring a calculator. e-mail findings or call me when you are in the cab. 905-888-9070 have me paged. by the way version 1 .10 ( version 11.00 ) i find is best if the machine is properly setup and adjusted. 99% of all our 210 of this model have 11.00. approx. 24 or so.
i ran into the same thing this week on a sk250. the wiring harnees exiting the pump compartment over the cross frame clipped unto a bolt of the bell housing shafed into the metal grounding out. taped up wire, re-loomed and tied up with rubber pad untop the frame and around the edges. machine fine now.
Mr. Kobelco, I tried what you said in the diagnostic screens and found the following: -First of all, I have version 1.2 -Everything seemed within your specs until I got to the C1 and C2 pressures. ---C1 Pump P1= .5v 1K--- With the machine off ---C2 Pump P2= .9V 62K--- With the machine off ---E1 P1 Pump Comp 500 mA 15K Meas 482 mA 14k Powershift 150 mA With the machine off ---E2 P2 Pump comp 501 mA 15k Meas 487 mA 14K Powershift 150 mA With the machine off I now suspect the c2 sensor has gone bad, what do you think?
go ahead and switch the and see if the problem moves to the other side you won't hurt a thing that should tell you
I switched the sensor wiring and thus plugged the wiring for c1 into the c2 sensor and the c2 wiring into the c1 sensor and the readings switched on the diagnostic screen (C1 read the high reading instead of C2)
The sensors should reading 0k with the m/c off. Bouncing from 0-1k is normal 62k is not right. 62k = 881.83 psi this is destroking that particualr pump earlier than it should for your sensor has malfunctioned. The pressure disc gets distorted. Yes this sensor should be replaced. C-2 = pump 2 high prs sensor = se-23 which is tagged on the wiring harness to this sensor. By the way all our customers with your generation of sk210lc, i have programmed with version 11.00 & have performed setups done in a structured and logical stepped method. A procedure that i have written up. All our customers are happy with the end result. Your version 1. 20 = version 12.00 we found that this version was not recieved well by the operators in our region. If you are content you are okay to leave this version. Kobelco recommends this as the latest version.
Read the vers once more. Make sure there is a space after the decimal point. 1. 20 the space is there to diferentiate number of version is a version higher than 10. Computer programmer did not have room to allow placement of 2 digits before the decimal point.
WOW !! Mr. Kobelco knows his stuff...this is a great forum!!
Mr. Kobelco, I will check the version again to make sure, I wasnt looking for a space the last time. Would switching to version 11.00 require a laptop, and what are the changes? Im always looking for better performance from the machine. Also, i tried to look up the part number for the pressure sensor on the Kobelco America website but could not locate the number, would you by chance have it? Your knowledge of the brand is very impressive, I would love to know more about the quirks of my machine (I didnt even know about the maintenance screens before your post) hopefully we can talk more in the future.
sensor the part # for the sensor is YN52S00016P1 you would have to have a lap top and cables to change the program in the cpu we have had guys try and rig there own but it never turns out good at least for them but it does make our dealer ship money also changing the program can and will change performance of the machine. All the information on the electrics is in the service manual but the software and cables are kobelco own and cost our dealership quite a bit of money every year to keep up to date
thanks for that part #... I checked the version and it is 1. 20.
I am a brand new member to this forum and am not able to start a new thread. But have a question we need answered. We just purchased a 1985 Kobelco K907C excavator and it will not swing all the way around. It stops in a certain spot while trying to swing from rear to front and begins to jerk violently. Any ideas? Thanks!
by the way the part number buddy gave earlier is incorrect - YN52S00016P1 that subs up to a YN52S00016P3. these are your nega-con sensors that fit into the teed fittings on the pump. that is not the one you have a bad reading for. the initial high pressure sensor is part# LC52S00002P1 which now subs to LC52S00013F2 ( has an adaptor harness w/ sensor to fit your machine harness ). if you purchased this one keep for a spare nega con. those sensors have the wiring tagged SE-27 & SE-28.
version 1. 20 is the latest version kobelco japan recommends. we have all our customers setup with version 1. 10 version 11.00. setup with my step by step procedure your machine would perform like night and day for the better. i can e-mail to your local dealer my procedure. my kobelco field rep refers all the dealers he supports for kobelco to me for this procedure. it works and is fairly easy to follow for an experienced kobelco mechanic.
yes you do require a laptop. if the machine was purchased by you direct from the dealer, you should be able to talk them into switching you over from 12 -> 11 with my procedure if they want to keep you as a long term kobelco cutomer they should probably not charge for this. with my procedure they will learn something more indepth on how the kobelcos function which is more than what the mechanics learn about in the factory schooling. i have been twice. dynamic acera training as well as the new mark 8 & sr-2 models ( current models )
Yes I did screw up and got the wrong sensor too many things on my desk but I would always check the older # for any part first all the parts systems will change a # up but not down someone could have the older # and not the new one. As far as installing any software on a machine that some one has cooked up on there own I don't believe Kobelco would think much of that!!
dear dirthog, hey mistakes can happen. just making sure this was brought to attention before the sensor was installed. on other point, i do not cook up anything on my own. i have worked with many dealers up here in canada after Kobelco themselves had referred for them to make contact with me on how to go about setting up their machine properly in order to make their customer happy. that is the end result of course - keep the customer happy. my setups ensure the machine is dialed in correctly. i do not think you realise, i am the Parts & Service Mgr. for a long time full-line Kobelco hydraulic excavator dealership. i have also been to the factory twice, and have taught hydraulics college levels 1 & 2. there is more, but this is not the point. i am enrolled in the est service tools subscription and have quite the extensive version library. many versions of which other dealers do not have. some versions were corrected by our dealership bringing to light problems within the software. so everyone out there knows, there is nothing that i would do that is not already known or approved by kobelco. For all that may read this, i am only here to help. I do this day in and day out. Kobelco is a good machine and has a proven to be also very reliable. like any equipment as long as you service the machine when it requires, it will take care of you. oils and filters are cheap compared to breakdowns.
Hey fellow's, I think you both (dirthog and Mr. Kolbelco) need to have a beer. You both have exibited your expertise with the Kobelco machine, and it's obvious to me Mr. Kobelco is a highly trained tech. I think both of you can be a great asset to this forum and the many Kobelco owners here. But you fella's seem to have got in a bit of a tussle here. :beatsme Calm down and work together and you both can be a great asset to us all.
I agree. In these times we all need to stick together. drinkup.
:iagree:drinkup
not saying that I to have been to a lot of kobelco schools some at the factory and more at our own dealership as kobelco does most of there training for our company right at our dealership now because of the number of mechanics we have and also the number of machines we have out and I will admit I have been away from the mechanic end for a year or so moved into more of the sales end of things as the body is getting tired after 30+ years or turning wrenches
Thanks guys, The parts are on order and I will keep all updated. Thanks again
Thanks for the part number again. The high pressure sensor finally came in and I just put it in. Everything looks good in the maintenance screens and the machines tracking well. One problem remains: The machine is still luggging and throwing black smoke when a lever or pedal is at full extent. It rolls coal like crazy while tracking and again... while any one control is fully pushed (even worse when two levers are pushed at once). Changed the air and fuel filters, cleaned the screen under banjo bolt, and now im at a loss. Theres one more thing to help diagnose the problem: All symptoms go away when the machine is in heavy lift mode. I suppose I could always run in heavy lift mode but I am not sure of any bad effects this would have. Any thoughts?
Hmmm, sounds like it's overstroking the pump in speed mode. Something's telling the pump to deliver more oil than is demanded. Dirthog and MrKobelco are going to have to noodle this one out, I'm curious as to what's causing it.
that is what i am thinking. with that generation kawasaki pump the end plate on each pump regulator block bolted to the side of each pump, one facing to you on the p2 regulator and the other reversed facing in towards the muffler/engine each contain 3 o-rings that should be changed. approx. $ 7.00 per set. when one of the two o-rings get hard the hyd oil leaks by and turns up the pump swashing delivering more than normal oil flow. when the hyd are loaded over relief the engine will smoke and load dropping the engine rpm down. the end plate has a screw and lock nut and just above it on the same plate is the one i am explaining which has a stepped affair of nuts large stepped to peak with one tiny square adjustment screw held by a 13mm nut. you can check if o-ring is bad by marking the orientation of the nut and then crack loose, allow the screw to turn with the nut, by hand you can remove it. inside the chamber should be dry (no oil) if oil leaks out you need these o-rings (ONE SET); 1 - ZD12P01600 1 - ZD12P01800 1 - ZD12G03500 TIMES 2 for other regulator. if you reseal one you also do other...best practice. if oil leaks out i need to inform you of some other info before you attempt this. i have had many owner/operators do themselves after explaining with no problem. **** also, likely could be that your air intake hose to the turbo has become soft. when under hyd load the air flow is enough that the air intake hose can suck in closing off causing thick black smoke...check this first have someone operate while you wacth the hose react. Adam.
by the way, you will not want to run in heavylift mode for the computer is destroking both your pumps as well as raising the main relief pressure from 5050 psi up to 5650 psi. heavy lift via the toggle button is to be used for what it means lifting of heavy loads and helping hold in the air. like a heavy man hole or large sewer pipe. the right hand joystick is your power boost used for momentary boosting of the hyd prs but cuts the pumps more - used for bucket digging added breakout forces. used momentarily not long term hence the push button. in the dynamic acera models tier 1 (-6) and newer models these two button/switch are now seperate inputs into the computer. in older kobelcos they were teed together. all purposes are for short term use...not meant to run always.
I will check it out today and see what up... Im not totally sure of where you are explaining but maybe it will clear up when i get in front of the machine. Thanks
I found the stepped nuts but when I removed the 13mm one, I couldnt get the square adjustment screw to turn at all not even with vice grips. I put it back together because I was tearing up the square end. Also, reaching the one facing me was easy but getting to the other one facing the motor seems almost impossible. Even if I can get the square adjuster to move how will I see into it to look for leaks??
Still havnt figured anything to move the adjuster...
Hi, My name is Bill. I hope someone could help. Kobelco SK 210 LC Sn# YQ07-U0937 It started with travel alarm not working. Now the problem is No throttle control with dial and it’s at full throttle. Here is what I did in order. No travel alarm when moving tracks Check fuses -- All good Un-plug alarm from wire harness Check alarm with power probe ( test light with a power switch ) Powered up alarm and it works ( plug alarm back in ) Remove cover from under cab look at foot controllers ( wires look good ) Un-plug RT sensor check for power ( can hear relay clicking ) Remove cover behind seat ( under electronic box maybe it’s the cpu ,found relay for alarm) Remove relay (bench test it, It works ,reinstall it, ) Start machine Engine is at full throttle ( turn key to off /engine shut down ) Turn key on and notice LCD screen flashing RT TRAVEL SENSOR UN-PLUG ( B-9 top left corner ) Turn key to off Reconnect wire to sensor , Turn key to on ( LCD screen read OK ) Start machine Engine runs like there is a huge load on it Black smoke from exhaust pipe Shut engine down Un-plug Rt sensor from foot controller. Start machine It’s at full throttle No Black smoke Disconnect electric throttle control rod from injection pump and connected the manual throttle cable THE FUNNY THING IS, THE TRAVEL ALARM IS NOW WORKING WITH THE LT FOOT CONTROLLER AND WITH THE RT ONE IF PLUGED IN Rt sensor pluged in still puts load on the engine ( like hydraulic pump kicking in but travel valve is not open ) I’m guessing. Please help ! Uncle Tony wants to kill me Thanks Bill
Welcome to the forum Bill45. :usa Make a few more posts and you'll be a junior member and have access to forum features. dirthog or MR. KOBELCO should be able to help you out, you can send them a message when your a junior member. I haven't seen MR. K around here for a while, but I saw dirthog here today.
kobelco sk120 i have a 1985 kobelco sk12 mark v i have done a service on it and i want to know how you reset the lcd display which tells you how many hours since last service not a big problem but since we have some people with good knowledge on kobelco excavators i thought i would ask
kobelco sk120v lcd display does anyone know how to reset the hrs after last eng oil change on the lcd display on a 1985 kobelco sk120 markv not a major problem just help full way of keeping on top of maintenance:cool2
Thanks ATCOEQUIP I'm glad i found this site. I just hope Mr Kobelco or Dirthog could help me. Maybe send me in the right direction.
SK-210-LC Well My time is up. Uncle Tony is picking up machine and dropping it off at the Kobelco dealer. Don't know what it's going to cost me. Still like to have a answer to my question. Thanks, Bill
hi, sorry got real busy. prdiesel, feel free to call me at work. 905-888-9070. call from your cell when you are at your machine. i helped a mechanic in ohio just yesterday this way and found his problem with the machine. he had two bad sensors. i am sure with a little of your patience i can do the same for you.
bill45. call me as well when you are at the machine. your problem seems weird to much to go over. easier having you in the cab seat accessing the display. you will be my eyes. sounds like you have a sensor acting up or a common problem with the auxiliary hyd sensors wiring. i found that even though there is no sensor and/or no aux hyd plumbing an induced voltage tricks the computer into thinking there is plumbing and turns the e/g throttle up and strokes on the pumps. this could be one of your problems. easily seen in the display screens and if you have elkectrical wire side cutters or better yet as not to butcher, an o-ring pick thin and pointy and electrical tap[e these wires for the sensors can be pulled fromn the connector at the computer and taped for use later if needed down the road. bring a philips screw driver to remove access cover behind the seat. Adam. ph: 905-888-9070 home: 905-697-9626
jonboy, if the code 23 - oil supply is displaying and beeping simply hold the buzzer stop switch one of two (without the clock symbol opposite ) for 5 seconds. the oil clock will reset to zero. after 500 hours it will alarm once again
jonboy, turn key on, do not start, if code 23 oil supply should display, if holding for 5 secs does not do it press buzzer stop sw 5 times. buzzer stop is an arrow with a " X " thru the arrow. this will rid code and clock is rest back to zero. the way the maintenace clock works is that it starts at zero and counts up to 500 hours to alarm. if you want to fool computer that say 250 hours has gone by,... put mode select switch into " D " mode and press buzzer stop button down then turn key on while holding depressed once screen comes up the adjust can be done for the clock. may be d mode, key on then press buzzer stop for 5 secs (or 5 times ) press button again and hold your finger will get sore, once you let go the hours when you let go are locked in. you cannot count up or down. if you do not get what you want you have to start all over again. the new machines are way easier.
bill45, simpler thinking, one i do not advise using a test light. a digital multitester is preferred as not to ruin computer. lift the rubber boots off the travel pedals and check for dirt build up keeping pedal shifted or if the chrome poppet under each side of the pedal presses down then springs back up. the little spool under the poppet maybe sticking. if so take pedal apart and clean out foreign material. the e/g throttle going up to high idle can still be caused by a few things. do call me. by the way by removing the throttle linkage you will need an " A " adjustment done to reprogram the steps of the governor to the computer. tricky but i can supply procedure. read and dot your " i's " and cross your " t's " before attempting. whatever you do never yank on the stepper motor with the key powered on you will burn out the computer.
Hi Mr Kobelco Thanks for your advice. the buzzer is not sounding and no code is showing i have tried everything you said and all i get is accross the top of the screen is the hrs then below that is a letter then a number followed by things like bucket, swing ,pump1 pump 2 etc as i scroll thru with the clock buttons i think i neglected to say is it is the itcs control on this machine any other things i can try
jonboy sorry i just spotted you have a mark v (five) ? does it have a helicopter cab? if you do have a mark five please e-mail me complete model and serial number as well as digital pictures of the buttons/switches in the cab and of your display. once i see them i can direct you better. e-mail: [email protected]
jonboy, you can try, on the display there should be a blue screen change button. turn key on, depress blue button one at a time until the hours after engine oil change shows, then press blue button and hold down not releasing for at least 10 seconds, you should spot the display screen change then when releasing change back to the hours after oil change. at this point use either the mode select button or buzzer stop to count the hours up or down. usually the maintenance clock starts at zero and counts to 500 before throwing the alarm. you can override by fooling computer the machine has already had 250 hours clocked this way. I recommend reseting back to zero. 500 hour intervals is best. when you have counted to zero press the blue button to save it into the computer. you might also try once you are able to change hours on the screen to push both the mode button and buzzer stop at the same time holding until the computer sets zero, then push the blue button to save.
Hi everyone. I am a brand new member and awaiting full member status to start my own threads at the moment. I have a question which probably doesnt belong on this thread but hope one of you guys could help me. I have just started exporting heavy machines out of Europe and have already ancountered a big problem! I recently shipped a Kobelco SK210LC-6 (year 2000) Serial Y007-03595. Basically the guy i bought it from told me that the computer was gone and he replaced it with abrand new unit. Well now i have shipped it to my customer, the machine doesnt have any revs......just idles...............and cant turn on the hydraulics. I would be very grateful for any help or if you have any ideas on troubleshooting the issue. Thanks!
What did you find out & how bad was it? I bought a 1984 K907C and the swing drive motor is loose at the base but the undercarriage is like 98%. I have parts manual need Ops. & shop manuals.
Hi Mr Kobelco I sent you email to your [email protected] acount .please let me know. thanks ED
Do not know why I received this ? I am OldStuff and do not know why I received this in my Email's . I am looking for a shop manual for a Kobelco K907c . Could this be why ? call 319-759-1280 Joe
OldStuff you may have you settings set to rceive email posts that get posted here.
I have a kobelco 135 SR. The #2 pump is staying engaged, it does not track well, the swing and some other functions do not work well at times, when I use another funtion the swing seems to work. While at an idle not being operated pump 1 shows 0 psi and pump 2 shows 4500 psi. When moving the thumb the psi goes to 0 but it is working fine. Any idea what is wrong with it?
jack.denison hi, when you're at your machine give me a ring. work# 905-888-9070 home# 905-697-9626 i'll see what i can do. adam
Ok thanks, my self or Gene Jones will give you a call when one of us is with it next.
Hi Adam, I have an SK80CS LF01-000540. I have a strange hydraulic problem. Left track is slow and will stop, Right side normal, Arm in is slow, Arm out normal, bucket close is slow, bucket open is normal. left boom swing is slow, right boom swing is normal. Slew appears normal, dozer appears normal, boom appears normal. If you engage the right track while using any of the slow functions, they speed up. We swapped the two main pressure lines on the pump and nothing changed. Any ideas what could be happening ??? Arm out will also stall the engine, but I believe that's a different problem ... Best regards, Mick
Hi I have Mazkhh Derl Denso Komen Reel Ali digger Hino always facing us because of faults such as sensors code P 26350 & p0088 is a work to repair the holiday