I have a PC180LC-3 with the S6D95L engine. Is the crank bolt for the harmonic damper reverse threaded?
Righty tighty, lefty loosy.
Thanks.
Going from an old school manual straight outta '95.
My shop manual for the excavator doesn't give a torque spec for the bolt, I was thinking 200 ft/lbs. I'm only pulling it to replace the front seal, without pulling the engine. Ever tried using something like this, if I cant hit it hard enough with my big hammer? https://www.harborfreight.com/10-ton-3-jaw-hydraulic-gear-puller-64982.html
Steve - Here is a manual that may help, looks like the torque is a bit higher. - I would make sure the manual and what you are working on is correct if not its just reference material. https://drive.google.com/file/d/14NEWPBaXrAmDVRtsmMWui90dl1YOfyNT/view?usp=sharing H ere is a conversion chart that may help too; https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FLqDyW_EjtSlSJw7ixsXpglL7Vx87qCu/view?usp=sharing I am a big fan of H type pullers in these applications a hydraulic puller that is not directly fastened to something make my teeth hurt just thinking about it. Crank Pulley looks like a taper fit, I wouldn't imagine the pulley to be too incredibly hard to remove, but then again, its not my fat ass doing the work.
Chuck, Thanks a bunch for the engine manual. I'm trying to be lazy and pull the damper without taking the radiator out. I'll let you know how I make out.
Those hydraulic pullers excel at bending and deforming sheaves, balancers, flanges, and almost anything that puts up a fight to remove when pulling from the periphery indirectly of where the force is actually needed.
That was my fear of trying to use it. I'm going to try a regular puller, just doubtful that I have enough space to properly unseat it with the hammer, without removing the radiator/oil cooler assembly.
If you have enough room what I've done rather than use a puller is back the crank snout bolt out about three turns and use a large pry against the balancer backside to bring the crankshaft forward in the main bearings. While holding the crankshaft forward with the pry and with force against the back side of the balancer, use an air hammer on the retaining bolt driving the force into the crankshaft. The high frequency harmonics set up through the parts have a good removal success rate. Not always a bad idea to remove the bolt and warm the interior of the balancer hub a bit either if they are really stuck on there good, but not usually necessary.
I've never had to use a puller to remove a balancer on one of those engines. Once the bolt is out, everything just lifted out. I've changed a couple of dozen front seals on those engines.
I've not worked on one of these either but plenty of engines where the balancer was pressed onto the crank snout. Not having the correct puller, or fasteners for the puller is a real PIA so improvise ways of getting it done without destruction; which me with a hammer equals exactly that.
So I decided to postpone the oil seal. I was unable to fit an impact on the bolt without pulling the radiator and hydraulic oil cooler assembly. I'll save that for the next time I blow a house on the bottom end. I did put new belts, hoses, turbo oil return rubber tubing, water pump, valve cover gasket, and lash the valves. The joys of working on 40 year old Iron. Thanks to everyone for the help and input.
I've never had to use an impact, pull the radiator or had one pressed on. I do know that the oil that gets thrown out from that leaking seal will ruin all the rubber components on the front of the engine in pretty short order. I just hate seeing new parts get ruined because it looked a little difficult to fix the root cause of the problems.
Maybe I'll give it a second try before I button everything up. Any tips on keeping the crank from rotating when breaking it loose with a breaker bar, not fond of trying to spin the engine over with the breaker bar wedged against the chassis
What? Where's your sense of adventure??? I use a strap wrench around the sheave or balancer to keep the engine from rotating but usually will opt for the impact wrench. Of course there are times like you can't use, or don't have those tools. Kinda/sorta like a 13 year old kid out front of the house changing a timing chain on his grandpa's Cadillac during a 90 degree day with no shade.....
The manual has the damper removed from the crank pulley - this might give some extra clearance. When the space is tight and my impact isn't cutting the mustard I use the starter - understand the rotation of the engine , place a socket on the bolt and a breaker bar/pipe on the ground in the direction that it will react off the ground (not bounce back against the machine) - then simply bump the starter and let it do the heavy lifting.
I tried to hold the crank pulley with a strap with no luck. I didn't have the gusto to try the breaker bar wedged against the ground and the last thing I want to do is snap the bolt. When I started this project the idea was to dry up a few leaks and address a coolant loss issue. I figured why not put a new seal in anyway while I had everything taken apart. After re-assembling everything and firing it up it has become painfully obvious that I need to have some radiator work done. I'll put the seal in when I have the radiator out. I want to thank everyone again for all the helpful information that was shared.
I had to use a nut, bolt, and wrench to make a mockup of this. With the engine rotation being used to loosen the bolt you have to have the breaker bar setup to tighten it. I haven't attempted it yet but will consider it as a last resort if I can't get it loose with the 1,200 Ft/LB impact once I have the radiator out.
Good news is now I have plenty of room to get at the crank bolt and front seal. Bad news is I need radiator work. I first planned on doing the soldering myself but with the way the mounting brackets are affixed to the radiator, I feel this might be one for the pro's. I'll try a radiator shop next week, finding a replacement on the internet looks harder than finding a 4 sided triangle. 21k-03-21110
It looks like to me you can remove the balancer then use some flat plate( 1/4"). Cut a hole in the centre for the socket to fit through, then drill holes for the six balancer bolts. Weld a pipe handle to it and have at it. I would use other bolts so you don't damage the original ones. Then use a breaker bar to loosen the crank bolt. Just a variation of diff yoke holding tools
The new seal is installed, Radiator sorted and everything put back together. I used a puller for the pulley, it came off rather easy. I used the screw in the seal trick to remove the old seal, made removal super easy. Thanks again to everyone.
Happy to hear it.