Looking at a D58P-1 Komatsu dozer, what do you guys think of this machine? What is fuel/GPH,engine,powershift,finals,etc. like? The machine has a 6-way with just a hitch and I think 34" pads. What is the horsepower and equilavent size to a Caterpillar dozer? Let it all out good and bad fellas!!! I don't know anything about Komatsu dozers!:beatsme roadrunner...
Company i work for has ran 58's and 68's they both decent dozers. they can be a bit down on power. I turned our 58's up to give them more power. You need to know wether they have the genuine Komatsu engine or the cummins. I havent builts a trans or final in any of the ones we have and they are fairly rough on them. I have one that does have a Steering clutch issue. I do feel that they are a good dozer for its size. I feel it would be somewhere in teh neighbor hood of a d5 or d6 in between.
How many horse are they running before being cranked up? What is the better engine Komatsu or Cummins? Is there such a thing as a gray market D58 that may be hard to get parts for?
I know I am a little late on this one, but from my underestanding a "P" model is not a "gray" market machine. I am currently working on an "S" model Komatsu track loader that is a "gray" machine. I rebuilt the UC and engine on a D41P last year and thought it was a good machine when I broke the engine in. It had the Cummins 5.9 liter engine like a 94 to 98 model Dodge truck. That is a great motor.
Thanks for clarifying the P model,and what do you think about the better engine Cummins or Komatsu?Is there a difference because I think they are both real good. roadrunner..
I'd go with the Cummins engine solely for the fact that you could get parts for it from pretty much any Cummins dealer whereas the Komatsu engine forces you to go to the dealer. Other than that, either engine will provide years of reliable service provided they see regular maintenance.
Thanks Partsdude, I will take your advice. roadrunner..
The "P" represents low ground pressure. A standard machine would be an "E". They were very good reliable machines. The only pain in the arse is bleeding the tilt cylinders with the block on the back of the blade. There is a procedure in the op's manual and you have to follow it exactly or it will not tilt correctly. In my humble opinion the Komatsu engine in that vintage tractor is far superior to Cummins. We rebuilt very few Komatsu engines, so do not be afraid of the engine very strong and relatively bullet proof.
I have a 91 D58PE (Not sure what the E means) with 4500 hrs. I believe it has the Cummins 130 hp engine and the 50 ton Carco winch. Had new undercarriage about 800 hrs ago. Any ideas at what it's worth? I'd really like to trade it for a full-size 4x4 backhoe. I'm in North Florida.
"E" represents standard machine. non-LGP. I would go to machinery trader and take a look to see it's value. You can see auction results as well as whats for sale.
Superwrench mentioned a clutch issue. My D58p-1 has developed an issue where after a couple of hours of running, it quits steering. Let it sit for thirty minutes and you get another couple of hours before it quits again. Anyone have a clue what that's all about? Mechanic here has no idea. I would rather not begin replacing parts until he figures it out!
Sounds to me like your brake bands need to be adjusted. Look at the rear of the machine under the fuel tank. They will be behind that sheetmetal on the rear. There should be two covers one on the left one on the right held in by two 17mm head bolts. Remove the bolts and cover and the brake adjusting screw will be exposed. You will have to consult the operators manual some were screw it all the way in and back it out 1 turn some were 1.5 turns.
I'll definitely try it. Just wondered why it would only start doing it after running for a couple of hours? Will definitely try adjustment before I begin buying parts!
What happens when you pull the steering lever? Do both side act equally?
Yes. Both sides quit at the same time although you can sometimes get a little more out of the left steering clutch/Brake than the right, but that doesn't last long. When you pull the steering lever, the clutch doesn't engage and then when you pull it all the way out, the brake doesn't engage either. If you throttle down and pull like hell, the brake will try to lock and you can throttle up a little and turn (without a load) a little, but if you let it rev up to much it overruns the weak amount of brake you have and it pushes straight ahead again. Let it sit a few minutes and it will run for 20-30 minutes - let it sit for 30 minutes and it will run for 2 hours, but 2 hours is the most you're going to get even if it sat a week.
When you first start operating it runs like it did the day I bought it. Its great. Just after a couple of hours does it start messing up.
Basically what happens as you probably all ready know is at about half way you disengage clutch and as you pull lever further it applies the brake, which is just a brake band around a drum. You sould be able to pull the levers to halfway and the tractor stop pulling, meaning both clutch's are released, and that is normal. If you were on an incline you would roll. If that is working correctly then I would go to brake adjustments. Have you checked the oil level?
clutches aren't working either because it will keep pulling with both tracks no matter which lever you pull (or both). oil level is good, but milky so going to change that and the filter and see if it helps. Didn't think a little water in the fluid would matter - can't see how that would cause this problem, but needs changing anyway. Have a John Deere backhoe that condenses water in the hydraulics all the time and doesn't seem to bother it any??
Make sure you pull the screen out of the bottom and let us know what you find. I am sure there are more people that will chime in here and the more info we have the better we will be able to help.
thanks a million.
You need to to have 17 kgs brake pressure and 22-24 kgs of steering...presure..the 58's thanks to komatsu's infinate wisdom.....have a serious brake band issue... if you would give me a few moments i can explain what you are dealing with....
do you have a mono lever or two pull levers very inportant bit of info for troubleshooting....
I have two pull levers directly in front. Its a 1991 d58P-1.
years ago komatsu could not sell any parts on there d58's...so they changed the design of there brake bands..Now they don't disapate the heat correctly and premature band wear is evident..resulting in band materail to get sucked up in the steering suction strainer....thus causing the steering pump to starve for oil and wearing thrust plates in pump and causing metal to enter system....then the debris gets in thye control valve causing brake piston to get sticky..now the fun part comes.....it only takes 3 kg's of pressure to apply the brake.....with the debris in system it causes the reaction time for brake release to slow resulting in no steering because the the brakes are still appling.
:usaso the brake pistons are in the brake valve that is bolted on the bottom of the steering control valve under your seat on top of the steering case....you can polish them only once...cause if u take to much off the will bypass....thats a quick fix after the system is cleaned and pump swapped.
is any of this making sense to your problem?...i can troubleshoot more if you want....
Great. So my little oil change with accompanying filter change may likely help the problem for awhile at least? Does the temperature of the oil play a part? Seems to work great for the first two hours and then quits steering really quickly thereafter. Thought it might be aeriating the oil because of semi-clogged filter. (plus there is some water in the clutch oil because its milky)
So need new steering pump too. That makes sense, but still don't understand delay in reaction. Why does it run good at the beginning?
yes the service may help ....but how did the water get in.....another problem all together......how does your final drive oil look?....and of course your transmission oil....the torque flow style tranny can allow water to enter in the steering case if the mounting bolts come loose....i have seen it many times....
the oil is cold and thicker .....by the way what type of oil are u running in the steering case?
I thought the water got there from being sunk in a tank. oops. Front end stayed out of the water, but back end was submerged for two days until I finally put enough rocks under it to get it out. final drive oil is dark - absolutely no water (probably needs changing, but no water issues)
the reaction time is being effected by the debris in oil and possiable piston damages...
i did not see that post about the water ..sorry disreguard the comment then...
you can call me if you wish...218-732-6719
it should have aS6d125E-1 Komatsu engine...
That is correct. That engine is like a cadillac. Starts before it even turns over all the way. When I bought it one battery was completely shot and it would turn over really sluggish and would still start on half a turn. The engine is awesome. Has been a really good tractor.