Hi there Can any one help me with the list of error codes for a PC 120 excavator ???? Or a service / workshop repair manual - I can't find one online without having to purchase it ... Thanks
You are going to have to list a Dash series. It could be Dash 3 up to Dash 8 and they have many differences.
John C., Thanks for your many great Komatsu insights..really useful. My 120-5 is struggling and I am about to dive into the fray. She has started lugging down under load including just swing weight... I emptied the fuel tank, changed the fuel filter, engine oil and oil filter, and replaced the hydraulic filter and strainer... New fuel and now the motor runs smooth but she isn't bled properly and she still lugs down. I will bleed her carefully according to the shop manual procedure and am accepting I have to test the hydraulics to recover her to her former might. do you have a recommendation for a Hydraulic pressure test kit? I found the Xztn- 60n on Amazon and it has close what you recommended in one of your posts. I am in the boonies on the Ca Or border so local help is scarce. Found a GREAT guy in Tx that is sending me the correct shop manual for my serial# and model oil a
Behind the seat in the cab on the boom side there should be two tilt out mirrors. If you have a gray market machine there may only be one and a slot in the console panel on the boom side below the seat that has three diodes. The two outside ones are red and the inside diode should be green if the throttle control computer is working correctly. The pump control computer will show a letter and a number and be steady on when things are working correctly. If there is a fault in the system it will be flashing and showing a number. If there are more than one codes they will flash in sequence. Record those if any and post them here.
Will do
There are tilt out panels that have mirrors on the insides. Gray market machines may not have them.
Hi John, i am creeping towards a better day on my 120... First off, the plate on the cab says it is a pc 120-5 and the decals say it is an AVANCE. Is there such a machine as I understand AVANCE started with dash 6 machines. Second, I gratefully have a 120-6 shop manual but there is no 120-5 electronic shop manual. I gratefully have a 200-5 electronic shop manual. Attached are the screen captures from these of, for example, the swing motors, along with a photo of the swing motor from my machine. I cannot see a match in either. I also found a shop manual hard copy for a 120-5 but it is dumbed down and the illustrations are lame. It does not list a 120-5 AVANCE. . I want to have a matched trouble shoot guide before I wade in. Thoughts ? Thank you in advance.
John, Sorry , copied in wrong photo... Here is my swing motor photo. The other I sent is of my main Hyd pump. Notice anything about it that will help me locate the correct shop manual for it ? Thank you.
The Avance name is for the electronics package and doesn't mean anything as far as the tech manuals go. Any Dash 5 service manual will provide the basic information you need for a Dash 5 machine. A 120-5 model manual will show you the locations of components and there are large differences in the hydraulic valves but the electrical and hydraulic systems all work basically the same.
Thanks. So...I likely now have all the shop manuals written for my machine[ serial # comes up as gray market, am checking the engine model and serial # for future reference- it runs great right now]...And maybe the illustrations will match or maybe not but time to read it all and make a repair plan. Further, my machine may be a 120-5 with AVANCE electronics, it may have a later model engine and the hydraulics may not match the manuals closely. Constraints and situation: I am remote, the machine is at a pond more remote, I have just changed Hyd and fuel filters and Fuel. And have compounded the machine problems by incorrect bleeding i think. Three improvements by priority are: 1- Air in hyd lines ? -pump sounds like it is cavitating, nothing moves. 2- Machine lugs down on load or swing like it is fighting itself, 3: Machine has tracked poorly since I bought it. Preparation: -Carefully look for error codes per manual - Test charge on batteries [may need to pull and fully charge batteries] - Find panel/mirrors or diodes in cab [this IS a gray market machine] Problem 1: Air in hyd lines ? Step 1: Study Shop manuals; - Drain Hyd reservoir, Pull Hyd screen again and check for debris, solder gaps in screen, check old hyd cartridge for debris, reassemble tank components and refill. - Execute bleed procedures carefully for main pump and swing motor. - evaluate. Problem 2: 2- Machine lugs down on load or swing like it is fighting itself Study manual for each step and then Step 1: Check Diodes in cab Step 2: Check TV solenoid connections and voltage. Step 3: Stuck valve ? Problem 3: Machine has tracked poorly since I bought it. -hopefully I can walk her back to my shop to - test boom lift speed -measure hydraulic pressures at key test points. Maintenance to consider: -Swing swivel seals, - Add a water separator to fuel lines[ machine does not have one other than dent in fuel tank drain], replace fuel lines. Regular maintenance needed: -Per manual, carefully replace PTO fluid. -replace track drive fluids Thoughts are welcomed please.
Hi john, Making progress !! Problem 1 solved---Pumps bled and hydraulics now work...want to tune further this winter. Problem 2 Lugging down still happening and seems to be fuel pressure related. Found mirrors and lights and error code. Was red on the engine side with error code 52... Now green with error code 52. Works fine for 5 min if I bleed fuel filer but then goes weak and will stall. Runs well again for 5 min if I bled the filter again and pump it full with the primer pump, then weakens again. Error code 52 is ? Or hole in fuel line? Or bad boost pump? Or bleeed injector pump ? ( this is how I fixed a swather that wouldn't run well.) Alan
Super so far. The 52 in red is actually an S2. That means the power light on the monitor panel is 2 and the mode Standard. If there were a code on the pump controller that would be flashing and giving you number codes. It sounds to be like you have a restriction in your fuel line causing you the grief. Swing the house of the machine so the fuel tank is between the track frames. Look underneath the tank and you should see a bulge with a valve on the bottom of it and a line going out somewhere around it. Grab a bucket and set it below the valve. Open the valve and see if anything comes out. The bulge is a settlement area and the valve generally gets plugged with junk from the fuel. Take a piece of welding rod and run it through the valve until it runs clear. When you have that cleared take the fuel line loose at the suction pump. Open the fuel tank cap and leave the cap just sitting over the neck. Now blow air back through the line from the fuel pump side and see what you get. Hopefully you get a bunch a pressure on your air line and then things let loose with a blast. It the line is plugged solid which is likely you may have to replace it or loop another line to the fuel pump somehow. Let us know what you find.
Hi John, Two replies..one from last night and one from tonight.. Thx John, I did some of your instructions today before seeing your response. Found the bulge in the tank, Drained all the fuel,including some rusty water collected in the bulge. Replaced the drain valve . Changed the fuel filter. Tried to put a fuel pressure gauge on the filter or near it... Have lots of fittings but not the correct one. Fail. The primer plunger leaks like heck if it faces back pressure. Tomorrow I will turn the plunger tight, fill the filter from the bleed port on top and see if it holds. I am charging both batteries tonight. Question.: what is the very soft whine that I hear inside the engine compartment..?. I thought it was a booster pump like my swather but don't find one. The manual says just.turning over the engine purges any air so there will be no vapor lock so what is the plunger for? I will back pressure the fuel line from the filter or from before the fuel pump as suggested . Wanted to do that today and your procedure gives me confidence . I have been thinking a squirrel bit the feed line so I had an air leak . Will see tomorrow if it is a line plug, a leaking seal, or a damaged line. Is the plunger a repairable part or replace. After she runs and finishes this pond job, I want to fine tune her. By the end of the day I had a green light and code S2. How do I clear the code or is it automatic? Thank you. Reply #2: You ROCK ! Up early with your guidance and; topped of hydraulic fluid to spec, loaded fully charged batteries, pulled suction side fuel pump and forced 100psi toward fuel tank...diesel spray shower and then 'plop' and the tank started gurgling!!!! Reconnected fuel line, cap on, greased boom and bucket waiting for fuel to settle, drained tank basin and after a few cranks she started and settled into a nice purr.. 5 min later running strong !! Thank you. Problem 2 fixed ! Still get red S2 ?? Reset or ? Forget about leaky plunger ? I am wanting to fine tune the hydraulic valves but don't want to ask for trouble.. Maybe I will run the machine performance test in the manual to see if she is in spec first ? Grateful, Alan
The red S2 is normal as long as it isn't flashing. The green light is also normal. The leaking hand pump has an O ring that can be changed but don't bother. It will start leaking again in short order, replace the whole hand pump. Only three nuts hold it onto the side of the fuel injection pump and with the vintage of your machine you should never have to worry about that again. If the machine operates good now, don't worry about the hydraulic tune up. It takes some training and experience to do the first time and there is some analysis that has to take place as you adjust things. It doesn't take much to really mess things up if you don't understand what is supposed to happen inside the system when you turn each adjusting screw.
John, Hummmm, as stubborn as I am and especially about wanting my tools running great, I will take your advice and use her as is....Hummmm, I must be getting smarter in my old age. "the enemy of good is better." Thank you for the really useful help !! What to do about the fade in tracking "( 3: Machine has tracked poorly since I bought it.)" ? Start with tests per the manual ?
When you say the machine tracts poorly do you mean it has no power but walks straight or does it veer off to one side all the time?
The travel power generally seems weak but is live-able and there is little difference between Hi and Lo speed. The real concern is that one track is clearly weaker in travel than the other and the machine veers of to one side all the time. In order to turn, I often have to alternate forward and back on the strong track if I have anything in the bucket. I use the bucket to lift and turn otherwise. Two pads are frozen in an inverted V and of course they clicks on each revolution. I tried to use weight to free it but will have to disassemble it to fix it. The "slack" in both tracks is the same and the veering is my real concern.
Is it the same track that is weak or does it change sides when you change direction? The frozen links in the track chains is called bridging and there is nothing you can do about it short of having the chains dismantled, cleaned and reassembled.
I will check next time i am on it. Bridging....interesting....Is it tough to do ? More soon and thank you.
It isn't something you want to fix if the machine isn't traveling all the time. The cost of dismantling the chains is likely about the cost of purchasing new ones.
Not the answer I imagined and will save me lots. I don't move it regularly, more like get it to a project spot and then small moves...so I will not fix it and will attribute it to the machine's personality. I will be running the machine all this week and will characterize the travel issues and get that info to you. Thank you.