I was told it didn’t want to start after moving it to the field . I got there and it started I changed fuel filter and cleaned bad air filter. They used it 2 days next day no start. I checked fire at Fuel shut off it was close buy a grain dryer So I couldn’t hear but after making good contact test light was flashing then I heated shut off clicking. I messed with it some more And it started then I tested key switch it was the factory one 2 million miles it didn’t seem good so I replaced it but I don’t think found the problem.
Should have a manual screw on the front of the solenoid. Screw it in? to bypass all electrical need. It should start if it spins over. Have to back out the screw or chock it down in gear to shut it off. I have read some electronic models were made but never saw one. Those would be different.
It dosent have a screw. I took the fuel line lose at were it comes from the pump going to the head and put a hose on it running into a bucket it had a good stream. I wish i had a gauge to test it if it stops running agin.
Does it have electronic injectors? Say Pace or Celect on it anywhere.
It does i dont know what or if it says that on it.
If it does have electronic injectors-I would suspect crank sensor.
Both would have a computer box on the left side with that name on them. The Pace system used a computer over the PT fuel pump. A hybrid type system as best I recall. It has been a while. The Celect had electronic injectors. No box means a good old mechanical engine.
Your right Tenwheeler, Cummins used the Pace system on some 855-315's also IIRC.
It has a box with the fuel plate on the back of it with 2 big wireing plugs going into it but when i was looking at it i didnt see the big wireing loom going into the upper head under the valve cover.
Not having a scanner makes it difficult. Both systems should have computer power and ground wires off the batteries or starter. Check all connections and fuses. Some are buried up hard to find above the starter. If you search Cummins L10- M11- N14 Krom type things on YOU TUBE you will find some videos that might help. Make your pop corn and coffee first.
Is this what you have Doug?
Thats it.
Check the crank sensor and wiring to it,
I thank that is the blue thing under the A/C compressor in his picture. There are some ohm specs between wires. Just old metal fuss can build up on the tip and cause bad readings. That red cap is one of the fuses and there is another one. Check the connections.
They have been using the truck every day and it hasnt acted up once. I cringe every time i see it.
I was called to look at another truck that was just bought. They went to put a CB in it and found a fuse blown. The fuse was replaces and blow putting it in. I went and looked at it and found 4 other fuses blow. I replaced them all and it hasnt had a problem. Every time the phone rings i think its about one of these trucks.