i have a 1995 l8000 the clutch pedal sits real high. I have had the clutch and pedal linkage adjusted and it doesn't change anything.the clutch feels fine just pedal real high anyone know if this can be fixed or changed. Thanks
Is there more than one hole in the throw arm that the linking rod can go in?
Welcome to HEF alvan. :drinkup I can't speak specifically to your truck, there's just too many variations. But generally speaking, the various clevis yokes on control rods are adjustable, and sometimes you change the position of the clutch control arm on the transmission. And the pedal should have a stop bumper when the pedal is up, you would need to adjust that bumper as well. Being an L8000, that unit should have a pull type twin disk clutch, and it should have a clutch brake on the tranny input shaft. Here's the important thing about those clutches. You should adjust the clutch adjusting ring on the pressure plate until the clutch release bearing contacts the clutch brake pad with pedal appx 1" from the floor board. Once you get that adjusted, adjust the clutch linkage to give you 1" of free play between pedal stop and pedal contacting the clutch release when pedal is up.
Along with what willie said, the adjustment to the pressure plate, the distance measured between the throwout bearing and the clutch brake should be 9/16 " in a relaxed state.
Ah? 1St adjustment: adjust linkage to get more or less clutch brake. I give company drivers 1/2" clutch brake off the floor. 2nd adjustment: adjust internal ring to change free play. Adjust to 1.5 - 2" free play or 9/16 between release bearing & clutch brake. On an L8000 there is a L shaped bracket bolted to the frame as a pivot for the linkage,(directly below firewall). There is an 1/8 hole in it. Stick a 1/8 rod thru the hole, it'll line up with a 1/8 hole on the frame mount, when the linkage is adjusted correctly, ( in a perfect world, without wornout motormounts, etc).
Dang, thanks for correcting me gkenworth, you're exactly right, adjust the linkage first to get the clutch brake adjusted properly, then adjust the internal ring to get the proper free play. Thanks again bro. :drinkup
It's all good, Willie
For sure! It's been a while since I've messed with big truck clutches, work on mostly machines of late, but I've always been bugged by clutches that are not adjusted properly, almost a peev, and one thing that drives me bat s&!t crazy is a truck driver that burns up his clutch and no longer has free play yet keeps driving it that way. I've gnawed the arse of more than one driver for burning up his free play and not letting the grease monkey know about it.
Willie, I know exactly how you feel. Worst experience I had: worked for a fertiilizer dealer for 5 seasons over 11 years. (Rural community, company had Ford automotive dealership, Ford/New Holland ag dealership, RV Dealership, and fertilizer plant). On one particular NH3 truck (an L9000) I drove in my 2nd & 4th season (4 years later). At the end of the season I reported to the auto shop that the clutch would need a clutch adj soon. And I went on my merry way. Fast forward 4 years. I climb into the same truck. Shocked to find it has less than zero free play. I try adjusting the ring, Can't. Yes the pedal was depressed, I was starting to turn the engine over cause it had so little free play. Talk to the lead hand, he tells me the auto shop was gonna fix it in the off season, but someone forgot. Talk to the HD tech (an ol boy with a milion years experience) at the auto shop, tell him my dillema. He tells me to take an air hammer and gently vibrate the pressure plate assembly, while I turn the ring with a pry bar. I head to the ag shop for an air hammer. Talk to the Ag lead hand. He's adamant that that shouldn't be done. His solution "replace the clutch". Not an option, just before the busy season cracks wide open. I grab an air hammer, get the clutch adjusted with 2.5 inches of free play. Good to go. Fast forward another 4 years. By this time I have both my auto & Hd journeyman tickets as well as my class 1 cdl. I'm driving tractor trailer now, as well has helping the semi retired fertilizer plant man do some of the maintenance. I end up hoping in this same L9000 to move it. NO FREE PLAY, AGAIN. AAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHH. I chew out the current driver (2nd season in that truck) AND the boss. Gather my tools, AND my air hammer, and adjust the clutch. With only 1/2" freeplay. Left there at the end of the season & have NEVER been back.
Sorry to get this off track. I don't think the pedal height or where the clutch releases in the pedal travel is adjustable.
Maybe something was worn out on mine, but on my 74 Peterbilt I was able to get 4" of free play, a half inch of clutch brake and engagement an inch above the clutch brake. You could run the clutch like a throttle pedal. Anybody that drove it told me my clutch was "really messed up". Ha, in ten years I never had to adjust it.
LoL, that's funny and awesome RZucker. :drinkup
Worked good for me. Like I said others thought it was strange.
This talk about clutches remined me of a couple things here. First, several years ago we had a guy driving a stocking truck, Mack DM600, in the quarry. It got to the point we had to adjust the clutch in his truck almost once a week! Finally after the other mechanic and I bitched to the boss enough the boss told him that if we needed to adjust it once more that season we were going to put the young lady who worked the scales in it and he would be handed a shovel to clean under conveyors. This was not completely out of the question as this young lady, who was maybe 100 lbs soaking wet, had driven Mack trucks over the road before coming to work for us! Guess what that clutch seemed to cure itself of the wearing out problem! Another guy we have working here has been driving the same 1993 Mack Superliner hauling heavy equipment since that dog was just a new born puppy, think it has somewhere around 1,000,000 miles on it if records are correct and I can't recall ever changing the clutch. Also maybe adjusting it once every year or so!
I think that the linkage and the way it works has alot to do with how long a clutch last. I have seen trucks with good drivers that the clutches didnt last as long as they should. My pickups clutch was on its 3rd engine every time i replaced the engine i was short on money and figured i would need to replace it later but it keep working but after over 400.000 miles this spring the starter went out while pulling a trailer and i was pull started in reverse which i think caused a clutch spring to break that fell into the presser plate and wouldnt let it release.
Did I understand that right? And that broke a spring at only 400,000?:notworthy
I think that reverse being 6.09:1 x 4.11 that would make the engine try to go from a died stop to maybe1500rpms was a harsh way to get a engine to turn.I would have liked to seen how long it would have gone.