Ok, here are some pictures that I did NOT take at work, cause l would never break the rules. That much said, these following pictures are so similar to what I work with that you could practically call them one and the same.
View attachment 116174 Right side
These are not as rounded as usual, our trainer considers this to be 3 edges, as that little bit of angle in the centre is useable according to him.
Would you happen to have a photo showing how tall the edges are when new. The photo doesn't give much of an idea. Also how thick are they? Is this on a 16 or a 24?
these are the cutting edges on a cat 24 and are half worn, also, there seems to be nothing you can reference size to. I might be able to get a pic of the edges still sitting on pallets, so I will bring a tape measure and get the exact sizes, but "new on machine" might be impossible.
Well, i'll try to explain some of the things with this problem. Your grader uses steel cutting edges, they wear down as you use them.(preatty obvious..) If you need to make a cut into hard ground, you role the blade forward and use the sharp edge to get a good cut and a good penetration. When doing this the front edge will get worn down. If you continue this for some time, the edges will look like the ones pictured. The optimum angle of the blade is when the masses role good in front of the blade, and you transport a lot of masses with the blade. That angle was shown in another tread here. This is the angle you should use in 90% of the time. Keeping this angle when grading will give you max production out of the grader.(move masses with the grader, thats what its for!) But this blade angle, with the corresponding angle under the edges, will not give you a high down penetration.(because the whole thicknes of the blade needs to bee pushed down into earth) This angle will keep the angle under the blade, the same all the time.(wear down the underside evenly at front and back) So to keep and maintain the optimum angle "under" the blade u need to ride the grader with the optimum angle 90% of the time.(mark it with a paintstripe on the bladeframe, if u dont have some type of angle meater on the grader) This angle will work for most of the work u do with the grader.(sorry, it just have to..) Then u can angle it forward in 10% of the time when u need the extra "bite" or penetration. But if you angle it forward for a longer time, u loose the ability to get extra bite in 10% of the time.(pictured above) And u end up angling more and more forward to get extra bite.(and loosing productivity because masses dont role anymore) And u got to run a much longer time at "optimum" angle, before it gets worn "right".
so l asked the warehouse staff to let me see the blades we have in stock, "no problem" he says, "right out back in the first rack, help yourself"....... ya right. after 30 min of searching through a rack that is 100 ft long & 30 ft tall(crammed with blades, all by number) I simple gave up trying to find them in -20c, gonna have to ask for the number next time I guess. I talked to one of the other operators and the person last on the machine before photo is well known for "roll,float & go", so that might explain a bit.