Hello, Got a 583H ( essentially a D8H)leaking oil from the back. It seems like its coming from between the massive piece of plate that is essentially bolted to the back of the machine with a Tow hitch with a bunch of Very big bolts. Pretty sure this would be where the ripper would bolt on if you had one. My question is, If you took that off does it expose the inside of the machine, like where the oil is contained? Or is the compartments with oil in them solid cast Iron?
The rear plate should be held on by studs. The studs leak where they're threaded into the back of the bevel gear compartment. Why they leak is another story. If you remove the plate, you will not expose the inside of the bevel gear compartment.
Thanks. Thats what I needed to know!
normally on machines with a ripper will crack the rear housing causing the leak
Probably better to learn to live with it. Quite common
Yeah. That’s probably what will happen. Unfortunately though it works for an oil company on a pipeline job, and you can have zero uncontained leaks. Even a minor drip is a big deal. And its seen easily because every thing is done off Rig mats, so its not something overlooked easy. Oh well I suppose. Its also leaking from the bottom if transmission at the big suction elbow/tee, and the back of the engine between torque and oil pan. So also not easily fixed. Operator also casually mentioned its going thru coolant too. But don’t see much for external leaks, sooooo…..The ol girl needs some TLC
It’s a never ending cycle trying to cure all the leaks on 50 year machine. Providing your torque and tranny isn’t p##ing oil out,you could try dropping the rear belly pan and filling it up with sand or some big absorbent nappy etc.That should stop it from showing oil for a few months and is a cheap fix. As for you back plate thing,a pic of it would help,but you’re up against it. If it’s a true 583H (and never been fitted with a ripper),and not a D8H somehow converted to a pipe layer,then your bevel casing shouldn’t really be cracked anywhere that’s visible or been snotted up with weld.However,they can and do weap from the holes where all the studs fasten to hold your drawbar. If it’s just a drawbar,then you’ll also see a few holes that are unused and possibly still have the old cork seals in. You can get yourself a torque multiplier, remove your drawbar (your nuts will probably draw the stud out with it) and refit new studs and nuts using some sort of locktight or something. Be sure to use new studs and nuts though as simply refitting the old studs with the nuts stuck on them isn’t really good.If you manage to get the nuts off the studs though,I don’t see why you can’t reuse them. I’m wading out of my depth here a tad,but the other chaps will give better advice on how to fit those studs back in with some sort of thread sealant on them. If I recall,those studs are in the 3000lb of torque.They’ll need to be that right to stay dry.
Another red neck fix that would be ok for a pipe layer,would be to weld a tray thing under the back casing sticking out under part of the drawbar.Have it suspended on 4 chains or something with a 6” drop and slide an oil absorbent nappy into it as and when it builds up. I’d also make sure that front belly pan under the engine and radiator is well stuffed too.To be honest,belly plates choked with sand and soil can help things believe it or not on old leakers.Just make sure it’s not too full and air can get around the sump.
Thats a great idea with the sand in the pans! That would probably be the fix there looking for. Thanks
Like mentioned a D8H with hard ripper use, pulls the "Welded" plate at the rear for the steering clutch / brake compartment, cracks the welds and you get a leak. I forget about how the attachment bolt holes are sealed, that can be an issue too I'd think, though I never dealt with that. The only welder that would gouge and weld those cracked welds for that rear plate is a young and very ambitious kid. Even as a bare main frame the job would still be very nasty.