Gentleman, I have a 2000 Thomas Protough 1700 that overfilled filled the chain case with about 15 gallons of oil. I bought it new and it has not seen much use over the past 10 years(no longer in the excavation business, just personal use). I'm guessing my old employee failed to mention it was consuming hydraulic oil or this may have happened suddenly. My hydraulic oil is low. The good news(hopefully) is that the machine seems to run and sound fine. Unfortunately the service manual doesn't represent my machine exactly. It has manual disk brakes, not hydraulic. I have not found a case drain filter. I have not pulled the motor yet. It only has 880 hours on it since new. I've read other posts on this subject and I don't know what I need to to do in terms of trouble shooting/repair. I've read that it probably has more problems than just a blown seal. Please advise as to how I should repair it. I'm pretty confident I can fix it, but just need some direction. The motor is a Char Lynn 112-1166-006. The hydrostatic drive is made by Eaton, but I could not find a serial number. Just the front pump says Eaton 25500 FC. Please see attached pictures. Thanks, Steve
Looks like the motor is about $1200 aftermarket might be only $6-800. Or you can put a shaft seal in if the shaft is not grooved to bad
Always worth seeing if a seal will fix it. or put a pump from the chain case back to the main resivoir
One gallon a year isn't that much in my book I'd fix the oil levels and keep an eye on it when you use it some more. That seal is barely broken in, maybe it just want's to work a little more?
When I pull down a hydraulic pump or motor and find the shaft seal grooved, I polish the shaft with some fine emery cloth, about 400 grit. Doesn't last quite as long as new, but usually lasts a good while. The spring and elasticity of the new seal conforms to the reduced diameter of the shaft most of the time.
It's due for an oil change, so how do I flush the hydrostatic syystem(closed loop with a case drain)? Since it's up on blocks and open I'll refill the hydraulic reservoir and see how much is leaking. Will it leak without any resistance compared to working it hard?
I got the torque motor out. The hardest part was getting the #100 roller chain master link apart. It is the cotter pin style link that is a press fit. Is there a special tool to put it back together or take it apart? I had to knock the link out with a pin punch. With such tight access I don't see an easy way to put it back together. Any suggestions? Steve
Hmm, yeah they are a snug fit, on motorcycles I usually use vice grips or good waterpump pliers to squeeze it back together. Maybe grind down a small c clamp.
How handy are you? Try doing a Google image search for "chain press" I made up one that looks something like this one for work on my motorcycle a couple years back.
Kshansen, I'm a machinist, so yes pretty hand making stuff. Sometimes it can be a fault. You see something and think I can make that, but these days I'm so busy I generally buy it instead. I think I finally figured it out when my wife said "You spent most of the day making it when you should have bought it for $20.00. Point well taken. I searched master link tool and didn't find much. Thanks for the tip. Steve
Yes, but sometimes one can get satisfaction out of making something like that. Also what would you have been doing during that time, sitting watching some dumb show on the tv? My wife thinks I crazy, well in many ways I am, for spending time and a little money fixing up an old snow blower or lawn mower. Then she can spend half a day playing some computer game, at least when I'm done I can clean out the snow in the driveway or mow the lawn. Bought one new walk behind mower back in I believe 1972. If not for hitting a rock with it and bending the crankshaft it might still be going. Right now I have three of them all ready to go to work and between the three might have spent $25.00 total on them.