My backhoe never really had great heat but I was always so busy and like the cold anyway so never looked into it. After finally messing with the menu options last week on my JD 310 I found out there a spot that shows the actual coolant temp. It only it's 140-150 when working. Changed the thermostat yesterday and didn't change a thing. I don't believe the fan on those things have a clutch it runs locked with the speed of the belt continuously I seen other backhoes like that so does anyone know what else would cause this? I know some engines run cool but i can't see it supposed to be running this cool. I thought about blocking half the radiator like on a semi in the winter but I thought maybe then the hydraulic cooler wouldn't get enough air to it? Any thoughts? I'd like to fix it I feel like it's accelerating wear? Luckily i havnt used it much but not I have a ton of work for it
A new closed thermostat should allow the engine to warm to the thermostat setting. You really need to shoot temps with an IR gun, the sensor could be bad itself.
I thought about that but considering the heat hardly works It's probably right even the fan blowing the air from the radiator is hardly warm. I may still do that but it's definitely not running hot enough I don't know what could be causing this
You have a machine serial number ? I suspect you’re not working the engine hard enough. In cool ambient temperatures you should be able to get away with blocking off some of the air flow to the rad ,the only things in front of the rad are the fuel cooler and the A/C condenser.
There's no hydraulic cooler? I mean a couple months ago during the cold I was digging with it for about 6 or 7 hours and it did have decent heat but that was before I found out how to check the coolant with the digital readout so I guess it does heat up somewhat working it hard but even jist bucketing material for an hour or 2 it doesn't get very warm I feel like something is wrong. Or is that just how these backhoes were made? I have an older kubota and that thing will only get warm if it's under at least 50% load continuously so idk. I'm jist concerned running it at 150 is causing damage to the cylinder walls and probably not lubricating the bearings as good either
I can get the serial number if it makes a difference but it's on a job right now won't be back there until later or tomorrow maybe
Cool operating temps lead to incomplete combustion. That will cause your rings to wear, valve seals will harden and weep. You'll eventually replace an unneeded turbo thinking that's where the "oil" is coming from. And it only gets worse with lower ambient temps. Coolant temps are more important than people think.
Yeah you're right and that's why I want to fix this now. If it's a new thermostat and the coolant is in a closed loop how is this even possible? Unless I'm wrong about the fan and there is a clutch but even then if it's in a closed loop I wouldn't think that would matter?
The aftercooler , transmission cooler and hydraulic cooler are all remote , meaning not in front of the rad.
Oh really? I didn't know that. How do they cool then without any wind? If that's true then I can just block some of the radiator
The transmission and hydraulic oil coolers are liquid to liquid oil coolers and are bolted to the inside of the frame on the right hand side. .
I can't speak for Deere specifically, but Volvo places restrictions in the radiator and cylinder head vent hoses. If someone changed the hoses without putting them back, it will cause an inability to reach temp.
Need to verify temp with the infared lazer blaster like Vetech suggested. Although the machine may not be working hard enough to get hot, could just be bad sender. Need to check. Also need to make sure that fan can free wheel and isn't locked up.
Did I miss something, or did the OP not mention which 310 model he has?
Sorry 310j 2008
I went there today and the fan was locking I couldn't spin it. I didn't see a clutch? Does anyone know if that's normal on this series
No factory fan clutch on a 310J.
Okay so fan is okay then. I'll order a temperature scanner but I'm at a loss for words here what else it can be then. I know diesels run cool when sitting but once they're up to temperature it really shouldn't come down at least when it's 70 out here
Well again, I can't speak to the nuances of Deere. What kind of thermostat does it have? Piston or disc? Unclear on what has actually been done. If it has a piston thermostat, and the inner seal is damaged or missing, you'll never reach temp.
I believe it's a piston style. I bought a brand new one from deere ready to drop in and didn't change a thing. I'm going to block half the grill tomorrow I have to use it for probably 4 or 5 hours and see how that works. Maybe there is supposed to be the inner seal like you say and it wasn't there? I can pull it back out and check it was very easy to change but I don't know. Kinda driving me nuts on something so simple.
Where you at in this? I mean. I'm talking generalities here, but have no real knowledge on what he's up against. What's yer thoughts?
Like Funwithfuel said--the outer seal on a piston type stat. It's common for those to be missed, just a little tear can flow allot of coolant.
Yeah the outer seal was on it and I was careful when putting it in and old one looked fine too. Looking at diagrams here and noticed there's a coolant bypass valve on top of the radiator. Any idea what that does exactly and can it cause my issue? Just a thought there's nothing else to the entire system it looks like except that bypass valve and thermostat
I would guess as exactly as it's noted-bypass. What hoses feed it? or does even have hoses going to it. I would expect Diesel Dave knows or MG2361.
It's hard to tell exactly but looks like it goes into the radiator and the other side I'm not sure the diagram isn't very clear. I can look more tomorrow and see. I'm wondering if that's stuck open but I'm not really sure but considering 2 thermostats didn't work and that's all that's left seems wierd
Which thermostat do you have? Is it vertical or horizontal? Does it have a bubbler it? Is your cylinder head air-locked? Do you have strong coolant flow through your heater hoses?
It's vertical and looks more like the one on the right. How can I check if the cylinder head is airlock? Heater hoses appear to have good flow. I was reading if that thermal bypass valve is stuck open it can cause low Temps apparently
There's a seal in the bore that the tube body must fit tightly into it. If it "fell" right in, it's no good. You should feel resistance when pushing it in. See if coolant purges from hose nipples or coolant passages in the head.
What is the machine's complete serial number? There are 4 different engine models available for a 310J. What part number thermostat did you get? Is this something that just started happening or was it always an issue?
I'll get the number today when I'm there but I know the engine in it is a 4045ht054 series. When I put the thermostat in there was definitely some resistance. Not super hard but it was a good tight fit with the seal not sure on part number I can check later on the bag is in the cab. It was an issue since I got it around 3 or 4 years ago. The thing was I havnt used the machine much at all I was able to pay it off really fast with some jobs I got lucky on so I only put around 150-200 hours on it and most of those were in the summer and the gauge always came up some so I figured everything was okay never thought about it but I will be using it more nowadays again. I can try another thermostat and take out and inspect the one I put it but I highly doubt it's that I looked at the seal really good when I put it in and it wasn't loose. Old one wasn't stuck open or damaged at all either
For an HT054, this should be your configuration. Does this match what you have?
Yup that would be it!
Is the opening temperature stamped on it ?
I'm not offering anything else until an IR gun is used here.
I ordered one but it's still cold I felt all the hoses so the gun was probably a waste of my money. It's not possible that the engine engine running up to temp and the gauge is wrong. The gauge COULD be wrong but it's still not getting warm plus there's no heat
There could be no heat for multiple other reasons. Touching hoses is not a good gauge of temperature. The only way I know of for an engine to not create the needed heat with a new thermostat is either the coolant is bypassing through a bypass hose somewhere, no thermostat installed, the engine is incapable of creating the heat, or a mismatch of component parts.
I got the gun coming today so tomorrow or Monday whenever I'm back I'll take some shots and see what's going on but i think it's the bypass valve. John deere claims a stuck open bypass valve can cause low temperatures but I'll take shots first before I do that it's over 300 bucks for a little valve
Couldn't you just block it off to test? Take one hose off, plug it, put another short chunk with a plug on that fitting and see?? I've gotten faulty thermostats, if it's not hard to change I'd run to Napa and grab another, hopefully a 195° or even 210° if they have that option. Otherwise, like Ve says, get a gun to it when it's as warm as it can get and see what it says.
I see several different part numbers listed for 310J thermostats but none have any temperature details listed. You need to look at the temperature stamp on the thermostat or it's package to see what you installed and ask a parts department if there are any temperature alternatives or options. On an unrelated note my JD 4310 Compact Utility Tractor has a 160 degree thermostat with no option for a warmer one. It is open station so I have no reason to circumvent the factory design but I find it unusual. When I called a JD parts department they could tell me what temperature the thermostat was rated at even though it didn't list that info in the online parts listing.
There was a product improvement program to address cab heat on those machines depending on the machine serial number (which you never posted). Is your coolant bypass valve silver or black in color?
Sorry got busy yesterday. Serial number is T0310JX167489 Coolant bypass is silver. I did look on it when I got it I didn't see any temp on it only a part number. Maybe if I call they can tell me what it is
Just looking up the part number online it says it has a temp of 82 F unity
Your machine serial indicates that the cab heat PIP was a fix as fail PIP for your machine and that it was never performed. Unfortunately that PIP has expired. The bypass needs to be updated to the newer one. Also, make sure the AC/Heat switch is not in the AC position. Check your messages.
Does anyone know what the temperature 82 F Unity is in Fahrenheit or Celsius ??
Only logical answer is that 82 would have to be in Celsius, equal to 180 Fahrenheit. 82 Fahrenheit would be far too low a temperature for a theromostat to open.
Ding,Ding,Ding....Nige wins the cupie doll or anything off the 2nd shelf.
But, but, but - I wanted the teddy bear…..
The thermostat I pictured above for that machine is rated for 82*C (180*F).
I figured it was something with that bypass. I been meaning to post an update as I planned on using the machine a few weeks ago but ended up not needing it. Used it today coolant hit 157 was almost 90 where I'm at. I have the gun I bought to shoot the actual temp will do it once it's back to my yard. And to clarify you do mean the bypass I was talking about on top of the radiator? It's the only one I'm aware of
Yes, it is mounted directly over the fan just behind the radiator.
Okay yeah I called John deere about that when I posted this to see if they had it. 300 bucks but hopefully it'll fix it. I'll post an update might be a few weeks leaving for vacation next week. Thank you
What is the point of the bypass? Did previous or newer models have it? Could you eliminate it?
I was wondering that too. I'm sure someone else will chime in on what it does exactly but I'm going to say the older ones didn't? I ran a 310SE for some time and those hoods were so annoying but don't remember ever seeing one but I could be wrong.
The transmission and hydraulic oil cooler temperatures are controlled with engine coolant (fluid to fluid coolers), not an air to fluid transfer.The thermal bypass valve speeds hydraulic warm-up, maintains the oil at a more consistent set point, and makes for quicker stabilization of engine, transmission, and hydraulic temperatures. It works similarly to a thermostat but is not contained in the engine.