New thread because the other became cluttered. The rails arrived Wednesday the 30th in at 4:00 pm. And so far the engine bay is cut in both rails and 98 holes drilled with a Hougen Mag drill. The rails were perfectly formed-right on the money each 30' long which will give me a 280" wheel base also right on the money. I should have them finished and painted by Thursday given the steering box mounting goes well. I pre-made all the crossmembers and those line up perfectly. So it should be a fairly quick bolt up with members, mounts, suspension and axles. I will post photos when frame is bolted together. Truck Shop
Some photos of the rails-not good photos though. I still have to manufacture a bracket for the steering box and finish the front radiator crossmember. Truck Shop
Look like a very interesting project. I must have missed the other thread. What year? what is it going to be? I look forward to following along. Steve Hey, I found it. Yep, that will be a cool one when finished. Carry on.
What kind of material are the rails formed up from?
Grade 80-80,000 lb tensile strength formed by HW Metals in Portland Or. Grade 80 is standard for truck rail. HW Metals can form rails up to 60' with tandem press brakes. Truck Shop
Looking good. Glad to see you’re keeping us in the loop!!
What are you going use to coat the frame?
Thats good looking work. Are you doing the layout for holes off by transfering off the old frame rails or from plans? I ask because i had shortened an 850 ford for a dump box last summer,i patterned the 4 saddles induvidually and measured the rest ,rather than wrestle the axle in twice . that was a bit of a challenge but came out well. Doing the whole frame looks daunting. Keep up the good work.
Looking Great TS!
I'm using some gloss black from Napa that's industrial paint. The layout for bolt holes is partly from old rails but some of it is new design. I changed out a right side rail on a 2001 Pete some years back total time was 16 hours start to finish using a blank PacCar rail. I like frame work I guess, I've lengthened 72 over the years. I made up and drilled all of the crossmembers before I ordered the rail, it all lines up. Truck Shop
I take my hat off to you ,i havent done a lot of frame work so there s a lot of head scratching time when im doing it. Making holes fit is precise work.
Building gliders and changing mid 70s Frt Lnr rails or the early KW Aluminum Rails were a definite job security back in the day.
All the bolt holes that can be pre-done are finished and rails painted. Built a power steering gear mount that incorporates the bolts for the left rear engine mount. Installed the front frame horns, rear spring hangers and front cab mounts. Should get the crossmembers in and rear suspension mounts this week. Then build the mounts to frame horns to support original radiator crossmember. Truck Shop
Going with a Ross or TRW Gear?
Steering gear I'm using came off one of our wrecked 2013 Freightliner Coronados. TRW Truck Shop
Boy, I feel stupid. I just caught this update. Looking good. Worst part is I'm going to be in Clyde this weekend, but wont have time to get down to WW and see you.
The frame is darn near complete now. All crossmembers and rear suspension mounts are in, the only thing I'm working on right now is the radiator support. As soon as the snow clears away I will drag the springs, font axle and rear axle housings in and install. I will post some photos tomorrow. Clyde is a happening place. Truck Shop
Yeah, going to look at a new to us motorhome, Those drylanders keep that kind of stuff stored indoors. It looks really nice in the email pics. Not far from the old school house site.
Ok crane operator you wanted some photos-assembled frame. Truck Shop
One more
You're the man. At least someone manages to get things done. It seems like I chase my tail half the time, the other half of the time, I can't even find it. Hoping to make a truck show this summer, or just see how the project goes?
Reyco rears?
Nice work sir. I have a 68 KW you can do next.
No truck shows this year, too many things going on at work also. Yeah that Freightliner had Reyco 102 and at a 280 wheel base it should ride alright. But my summer time might be very congested, looking like I will add a 35 ton hydraulic boom to the KW tow truck. Truck Shop
Since the rails showed up I've made it this far. Truck Shop
A few more
Quite coming along, looking great!!
So what do you do for the wiring harness when you do a total restoration project like this? You must make it all?
Can see a simple four or six wire(could add a drop hitch and plug) to the truck rear, if should happen to go with third member temp sensors can always add a two wire and split at the equalizer. Engine should be pretty straight forward as will the Mack Cab lighting/gauges packages added. Just have to remember a Aux power plug(charge Phone) and a Radio, MAJOR necessity is Tunes!!
I think I have a junk ECM from an old Cummins Pacer system that could make things look interesting.
The air lines and valves are installed along with three new air tanks, plus the tail lights are wired and installed. Just have to install the hoses from the R12 valve to air chambers. I installed two Q1-RC valves for anti-compounding. The dash valves will be MV3 with a TP-7 hand valve and a E-6 dual circuit foot valve. I will use the old coe frtlnr cab air manifold on the firewall. Wiring will be real simple-using a new harness for a 73 chevy pickup with breakers added and a junction block for major load. No radio, {No CB or wellfare radio}. Heated mirrors yes. Actually I'm not restoring anything but I'm custom building my version of a old truck. Reason for it is {nobody does those types of challenges these days. I want a one of a kind when I'm finished, no one else has one. I have never been a follower. After a while I will put it up for sale and never look back. Thanks for the coffee Farmerlund.
If you just donate it to me, I will fill out the proper tax forms so you can do a big write off.
PICK ME PICK ME!!!!
I'll trade you straight up for a slick White-GMC. I know how much you love those...
Go with LED lo profiles at the Rear?
That's me face down in the dirt... get in line buddy.
I saw that !! JY and I are holding up Moral Encouragement though!!!
For a good reference on how long the hood will be when finished, the end of it will be about where the center of the wing window is now in the above photo. No LED lights on rear, had a box of about 40 good used take out sealed beams. I really don't like LED's, in the winter time those lights become pretty worthless in a major snow/ice storm because they don't create any heat and freeze over, people can't see them. For every action there is a direct and opposite reaction. Truck Shop
Wow! Good stuff! I've got 4 years into an old W900 and all I have to show for it is a bare, rolling chassis, rebuilt transmission and a 3406A that's in about 250 pieces
Well then this might help!
You know… I have never been part of somebody's avatar before.
Everybody's famous for something. Momma says: "show your good side to the world".
I enjoyed that day. Truck Shop is one of the best to hang out with.
That was a good day the one that started my misery
That was a good day.
Fifthwheel is on, tail lights & electrical, air system finished at axles and air line stubs run to the front. Flaps and hangers are on just need to install outside tires/wheels. Picked up the fuel tanks and frame mounts today, clean and paint mounts and straps/polish the tanks which are 80 gallon. Plus mount the quarter fenders, photos coming.
Nice progress! Looking forward to the pics
Using stub mounts for the 1/4s instead of a cross tube I presume, cleaner look.
Photos of progress.
One more.
That looks really nice. Drives are a set of take off rubber from one of the over the road trucks? Mount engine and trans first, or put the cab on first?
Sweet, very clean layout and efficient use of space!! Nice Holland wheel. Four wheel Maxi's, handy.
Yeah those are all take offs including steer tires, just not going to put new rubber on a rig that will be lucky to see 2,500 miles while I own it. Yes the engine will set in first then the gear box and drive lines. Then the cab, I have to build clutch linkage and install steering column which I have to design once cab is on. There is a aluminum diamond plate cover the runs from the tail lights to fifthwheel that covers the rear frame and polished diamond plate will cover the rest of the frame from cab back to fifthwheel.
That looks sweet: frame rails and light turned out so nice! Beautiful work....as usual!!
Kinda curious as to the cut off sitting in the back row?
That's is what is left of one of our 2011 Coronado's that was wrecked over four years ago. The transmission is in the tow truck and the engine Series 60 14L is one I rebuilt and was installed in a glider.
Meant to ask earlier, old mind keeps getting distracted!! SQUIRREL!! Did the frame shop make up the Crossmembers and frame brackets as well? Excellent appearance.
No I just had the crossmembers formed along with a 12"x2" lip 90* for flanges. I cut, fitted and drilled all pieces myself, every part and piece was designed on paper before I ordered the frame rail and every part and piece fit. Measure three times then cut and drill. I have been making crossmembers like that for years.
One tank done one to finish, J-mounts painted and installed on frame-straps painted also. Before and after photos of tanks.
I don't have the patience to buff aluminum, I would have just acid washed it and called it good. But that's me.
I have patience-I have been know to go fishing in a pond that has no fish.
Have a tendency to drop a line in dead water myself!! Looking very nice.
Nice work as usual TS. When you are ready to retire I have a nice little farm with 4 trucks to keep you busy. .
That should be etched in marble over a building entrance somewhere.!
Where at in North Dakota? There's not very many trees in N.D. isn't the state tree a telephone pole? Just joking. When I quit I'm done with trucks and mechanics, If someone asks me a question about a truck I will tell them {Ask me tomorrow because it will always be tomorrow}.
I haven't quite burned the need out yet of it TS, working on it. Just bought a new Fly rod and a Ultra light rig to try my hand at Trout. We have some fine trout streams and fisheries in MO, brother lives CO, may go visit and go throw a line in some mountain waters. That will be when trucks, mechanic and wrench bender in general will be done.
Someone told me there's a beautiful woman behind every tree in North Dakota.
there really is, you just have to find a tree
Hey that's what we say about South Dakota. LOL. Yep, the eastern side has very few trees and no hills. Pretty flat and boring.
Could you give a quick list of products and procedure you use for polishing. The guy that works for me would like to get some stuff to keep the trucks looking good. We don't have any tools for polishing. What are your favorite? Thanks
There are several videos on line of how to polish wheels and tanks, DC Shine has several good videos. I just bought the polishing compound and buffer wheels as a kit on Ebay. 3,500 rpm for a buffer works well, DC uses 6,000 rpm but he is a professional at it.
I was in Quincy Wa. today and saw a real nice Burgundy colored B-75, looked to have an older Peterbilt sleeper. I wasn't fast enough on the draw to get a pic or a name on the door.
Did it have a B cab or the L cab?
B cab.
Here,s one, pretty sure it’s a b61
Leaking a little P/S fluid there or engine has a little Ooze!!
Wonder if all matching s/n?(On axle). Has reduced spring load in front but should reconsider shocks on that set up, nice old 61 with a repurposed wrecker bed. Traveling wrench?
Talked to the daughter of the owner, they take it south in the winter . Would have liked to talk to the owner. I had a 56 b61 that I restored yrs ago was a wrecker converted into a tractor to haul my antique caterpillar,s, will dig out pics
Please post them on the {Memories for us old truckers} thread.
Added a tank and quarter fender, waiting for rubber sleeves for straps and rubbers for tank mount on other side.
Wow, that tank turned out nice. Do you have engine and trans ready to install?
So you are going step boxes under the cab? Obviously one will be the battery box.
Both have been ready for some time
Yeah I have two standard aluminum 4 battery-battery boxes that I'm going to convert into steps. I have access to a bunch of aluminum step material.
That is literally a truck built to spec. Kudos to you and your abilities. Also your knowledge of trucks is unsurpassed. Cheers
This is how it all started, me trying to keep up with Truck shop in the V10 Ford. He was on a mission. Got a lot more pics of the day he picked it up. The second pic is the Mack on it's way to it's new home.
Yep, that's going to be one nice truck when you are done. Looks like a 400 big cam? looks a lot like the one that is in the KW you did a drawing of for me. Did you totally rebuild it or is it a good used engine? My guess is you went through every thing. The black and silver detail looks great together.
Looking awesome. I’ve been so busy I haven’t had much time to catch up on HEF. Gives me a few ideas for the A-Car should I ever get a chance to get back to it!
Thanks, but there are a bunch of damn smart mechanics on this web site. Especially when it comes to Cat stuff Nige and C Mark are pretty sharp.
Correct, BC II 400 and a RTO12515 spd. The engine I disassembled and inspected, replaced liner O-rings, gaskets and seals, main and rod bearings. Cam and followers, heads, block, crank and pistons were in good shape. The gear box I disassembled and replaced a few bearings and resealed. Only had $1,150 in engine and $300 in the transmission.
If you look at the photo below and picture in your mind the hood cowl seam moved back to where the middle of the vent window is. That is about 16", which is what I'm adding to the length of the hood. The hood will be roughly 76" long. Which leaves plenty of room to lower the air cleaners like the drawing below
I know you want be your own dog... but with a hood like that, a set of big dual pipes would fit the proportions well.
Twin 6" x 8' stacks free mounted from the cab.
Yessss!
Have run into a snag with the guy doing the body work----He hasn't done any work in two months. So he is done and I will retrieve the cab and parts, and see if I can find someone else worth a **** to finish it. But I'm not surprised really, few bodymen are very reliable most are fairly shiftless or drunks. It will probably set me back a good year now and actually I'm ready to assemble the cab, install engine and transmission then set cab in-place.
That sucks. I do know a guy up this way that is good. He took the crumples out of a Peterbilt hood and nose and you cant tell it was ever touched. Last I heard he had some serious surgery but should be good to go soon.
Guess some of it could be from sniffing the fumes in a body shop! Just a quick walk through most body shops will have my head spinning. Can't imagine breathing that stuff for 8 to 10 hours everyday. Good luck!
For me that's not much of an excuse, with me you take a job you damn well finish it. But who known's I might just rat rod the rest of it to create a sharp contrast from frame to cab.
Don't do the rat rod thing... Please...
I knew I could elicit a cringe with a rat rod. Actually it will all probably go into storage because of medical problems I have going on at the moment. And finding someone who can do body work locally is not easy. And I'm not going to ship body parts all over hell's half acre to get it done. I want to get it done and move on.
Mike, I hope it not serious. You have the thoughts and prayers from me and Dawn.
Sorry to hear about the issues, both with the truck and the medical. Hopes and prayers for getting the medical straightened out.
Hope all is not too serious Mike, do not need health issues at any point in time, I have had my share of recent note. Hope you do manage to find a decent body man to get the cab done.
Agree! If someone is a contractor who installs septic tanks and takes the job of replacing an old one he can not use the excuse of a bad smell!
Sorry you’re dealing with health issues. Take care of yourself and the missus.
Don't over do it folks, i'm not dying. The medical issues will eat into my slush fund for the truck. My legs could rot off but the truck needs to be finished. And there is nothing wrong with my legs. But the real kicker is I showed up at the body shop to pick up my parts at 9:00 a.m.. And the body guy was fast at work on my truck cab, apologizing all over hell and that he would have the cab ready in a little less than two weeks, so after that about all I could say is {lets hope so and carry on}. It seems someone put a hex on him.
That’s great! Now, if we can just work on your legs....
This is good to know... If you need any help, just call.
This is just an amazing project! My son has one on a smaller scale. A VR 6 in a Rabbit pickup. Looking forward to the completion of them both!
Maybe Mr. P got a call from somebody?
Heck I would have called for you. I cant wait a year for more build pictures!! LOL Keep on trucking, Truck Shop. I have a similar story. While building my dump truck I had the box sandblasted and painted. wasn't getting done. Drove down with trailer to pick it up. Guy says its in the paint shop drying, painted it this am. He must have knew I was coming. He is lucky it was done, I was ready to blow. WARNING: If you rat rod it I will come out there and help RZ take it apart so you can do it right!! (but I know you will do an awesome job the first time)
Trust me, you would get a call...
You guys are pretty rabid over my Mack critter.-----On second thought I'm feeling kind of tired and it might take me four years to complete . But I did buy a nice boomerang antenna for the top of the cab and a fiberglass wing to go behind that .
JC Whitney???
Yep J.C. Wackovitch, only the best will do!
Custom grille I just finished
Slicker than snot on a doorknob
Sweet!
Finished off the front of radiator by using a emblem that's used on the side of the hood instead. The original style replacement emblem is $300.00, cost doing it this way was .34 cents for two stainless screws, already had the emblem and a scrap piece of aluminum for mount.
Nice improvisation with the grill and emblem Truck Shop. I just recently painted all my emblems black too!
Took a few minuets and installed the BCII 400 and 15 spd today.
Looks pretty clean without a bunch of extra holes in the rails.
No swiss cheese.
=no mistakes. Keep up the fine work Truck Shop.
Few more things done-compressor air system done, fuel lines done and power steering hydraulics hooked up. Built belly strap/brace under transmission and set radiator. Held a old fender up to it and the wheel opening is correct with axle placement.
QUITE impressive!
I'm in total agreement. Going to have a dead weekend next month, so a road trip may be in order.
As Bob Barker say's-Come on down.
RZ you may see if you can find an old piece of rebar to bring with you for Truck Shop... the shifter looks a little short )
I'll give you a call when I know which weekend. The other half is going to west NY state to visit family and I have a whole weekend to get out and do things.
I bet I have some old kinky cheater pipe that will fit.
Funny thing you talk about that shifter. I have custom built some parts for a RLC control shifter. Some I was still able to get. Below is the Eaton PFD on the RLC controls last pages 30-33. It will be needed to make the shifter come through the right spot in the floor. i have only seen two rigs with RLC control from factory. http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/group...roadranger/documents/content/rr_trip-0930.pdf
That would have been a nice addition to my old GMC with the forward lever vs that stupid bent forward lever they used in the 9500's. Trying to hit the rear gear positions put a crick in your shoulder.
Can relate to that S-hook set up shifter levers in the old 9500s, had a few oddball IHC tractors 2275s and I cannot remember if was a late Loadstar series had the wrap around bastardized shifters, half the engine(Small Cam Cummins or 6L Detroit was IN the cabs). Mack DM Side Saddles had a Oddball ignorant set up. I like the design of the u-jointed RLC, does the offset lever pivot cab mount or plate mount to trans? Not seen that before.
It bolts to the 5/8 studs using a fabricated plate where the rear torque spring sets-Dave.
Not to be a party crasher but, if you don’t mind a looky-loo (and if the wife will let me), I’d love to meet you guys and see your Mack. Darryl
Drive over- 910 E. st at the airport.
September 7 work? that's my weekend off.
Weekend of the 7th works!
Hmmm... Sparks a old memory, kind of makes me want to go out and find my little lady foot bar that came in handy when I rounded off a brownie shift.
You guy's are killin' me! I will be here, 3500 miles away just kickin' rocks and looking at the ground and of course admiring how much greener the grass is over the septic tank.
You are not the ONLY one killed here!!
Weekend of the 7th is fine, work starts petering out around noon on Saturday's at the shop. But if there is work I guess you guys can stand by for a short time while we finish up. You can show up at what ever time that works for you. It would be nice if You, Dave and others were closer and could come too.
Heck if any of those people show up early just hand them a wrench and point them at the next project!
Are you kidding? I want to watch somebody else work on trucks for a change.
There is a nominal fee charged for looky-loo by standers and people wanting to help. But the side show is free.
Found out on another forum there is another long hood B with the L cab.
Now that is a Stretttccched out Bulldog!! Nice custom job.
Dam that is a long truck! Have to wonder about the transmission linkage, seams if the engine is close to the radiator the shift tower would be in front of the cab. Or does he have a 16V-71/92 under the hood?
If you go back to page 7 post 133 you will see what I'm using, this rig above probably has the same.
Slight set back, completed hooking up the coolant hoses and filled the radiator and then drained the radiator one hour later. Sprung four leaks on four tubes about five inches down from top header. Removed and unbolted tanks and drove to Pasco with the core yesterday. Radiator shop called and quoted me a price from the radiator builder in B.C. Then I get a call back telling me it's only a 1/2 tube 4 row core, mine was 3/4 tube 4 row. A while later I got a call back, they can build me a 1/2 tube 5 row for the same price quoted the first go round. Plus the five row will cool better than the 3/4 tube 4 row. Apparently it will slightly slow the flow and with greater offset on the tubes the air flow will have a better effect on the surface area of the tubes according to the builder. Win some lose some, and then win some again.
Well... the radiator is about the only thing that isn't new.
At least have someone that will build the core. Closest here that would even consider LOOKING at my Allis crawler core was in KC, and no guarantee would build one, then got the donor. At least the small local shop confirmed is clean and flowed well no leakers, he could clean it but nothing more.
Photographed with no back lighting so it looks dark in color. But he wants to fine sand the clear coat and buff, done next week sometime. Interior is same color.
just WOW!!!! Slick as a New born's Butt!!!
So everything the same color Mike? A set of Black fenders would look good with that cab and hood color. JMO. My second new pickup was an '82 Chevy K20 4x4 with charcoal grey body and a black belly and cab roof from the box up. Sharp 2 tone in the day.
No Guinea green interior? Will a Mack even stay together without that on the inside? Looks awesome! When are you ready to head down here and help me get my A-car done?
The fenders will be black, this color above in the sunlight will have a slight bluish/purple tint and not quite as dark. If you saw the inside of this guys shop you would probably flip with the fact the lighting is very poor and the amount of dirt and sanding material on the floor.
I worked for an outfit that had the prettiest 2 tone Superliner lowboy tractor you ever saw... 450HP V8, plenty or gears, and that damn green all steel interior.
Like JY Noted, Guinea Green, I can still see that color in my head from working Macks!!! Good choice to NOT use it!
That barf green I just can't do. The only thing about this rig that will be Mack is some of the sheet metal, cab and radiator. And even that radiator if I had time would get a new look. The shell design was obviously designed by a blind quadriplegic, no offense to blind quadriplegics. But I definitely have a better design than that mess. Believe it or not it still had the original core in it. But the holes for the top tank are blind, and those holes were not squared to each other nothing was symmetrical. On center of the old core from end to center the holes in the front were off a 1/16 one way and the rear 1/8 the other way in order to fit the top tank. Who knows which was drilled first the core or the tank. But the aluminum side supports should have been built to bolt to the sides of the top and bottom tanks not slid in place between top and bottom tanks and core.
Sounds like my last three trailer rebuilds. Absolutely nothing square to work with. A 40 footer with one outside rail that's 1 inch longer than the other? I made a King pin clamp to get good diagonal measurements to square the suspension.
Like they had no Engannears!!!
We had Fruehauf vans delivered at Feld in 78, were dog tracking so bad had issues getting them INTO the shop bays. Spent weeks on the Emerson fleet so they would not destroy the tires by scrubbing, many of them were so far off square to be sent back to Fruehauf shop for repairs as we were not accepting them. The old Utility External Frame flats were notorious for being Off Square.
Glad to see you getting some progress done, every good body/paint mans shop I've been in has also looked like a mess. I see those spotless shops on the rebuilding tv shows, and I don't know how they get anything done. I like the color, what's the interior color going to be?
The same as the outside.
Fired it up and test ran it today for about an hour. Jakes tested ok set the rpm up to 575 at idle. Oil psi cold 42 lbs hot idle 20-22, that's all good. And power steering works. Typical BC 855 smokes like hell cold and stutters Mel Tillis for about 10 seconds after start up then smooths out.
Cooling system together or core still coming?
It's channelling a 903 LOL!
Now that's just down right mean!
That is mean Nothing worse than a 9 o nothin
I always liked to hear that lopey stumbling startup. My 7FB Cat would do it too.
I once bought a '76 Pete conventional with a grenaded 903 for nearly nothing, it wasn't a bad looking truck. Figured I could sell the hood and some other stuff and come out ahead, before I got it home I ran across a wrecked cornbinder with a silver 8V-92... Made a few bucks on that crossbreed.
I liked lopey Detroits.
Surge baby Surge, RAW Powa!!!!
Oh hell yeah me too!
Is this the type that the first compression stroke sounds like the starter is not going to make it, until it does, and then once you get it rolling over have to help it along with the starter until it catches enough cylinders to stay running? And smokes like a chimney until you start to drive it. Good ole days.
Sounds like you will be trucking soon TS
I j I just replaced the starter on my old IH yard truck with a Denso gear reduction starter, It doesn't do that ugga-ugga thing now. 400 HP BC 3 with STC. Starts... farts twice and runs smooth.
Actually it fires up pretty smooth. It was trying to clear the air from the system first time around. And the radiator core was changed out a week ago. Just waiting on some 9'X6" mitered stacks and chrome elbows plus Y pipe. Working on stack supports right now. I have a 39MT for starter.
Don't laugh Don Williams Contract Carriers had two 903's that ran over a million and slip seated every day.
And how many did Brader run? Story I heard was they had 903's stacked to the rafters to swap out at a moments notice.
I have known of three my own self that out lasted the machines mounted in. Were supplied in Stieger Tractors, fella near my cousin's farm bought all three in the late 70s were still rattling and banging up to three years ago then as other mechanisms failed they were sold off. Two of the engines survived and are in other Stiegers out by Vandalia IL. Old man in Moscow Mills MO still has the 1980 W900 he bought new with a 9 o Nothin in it, is sitting dead now but ran for a logging/sawmill company for years, was not very softly treated.
I remember helping my father inframe one in an ancient Western Star years ago. Had dropped a valve due to overspeeding. As I recollect there were a lot of head bolts to torque. He called the whole brand Cumaparts.
18 head bolts per head, 320 foot pounds each in steps to get proper gasket seat crush IF the block is not too deformed from age. Replaced a great deal of those in my days. Cummins lasted as well as any back in the day, knew a great deal of Detroit wannabe mechanics would drop in a set of Std sleeves in 318s or 238s only to end up having a explosive failure separation at the ports where did not fit them into the block or a failed replacement of the Zinc Pencils at the water pump and have the blocks disintegrate from the inside out. Only really bulletproof monster I ever saw was the 1693 until some turd decided the engine HAD to turn 2000rpm for 'Power' and found someone dumb enough to do it. Overspeed will tear them all up over time.
I should have added my dad bled Cat yellow and was a field service man for Crothers (Cat dealer in Ontario) for years before starting his own business. Anything treated properly will run for a long time. It was the ones that weren’t that provided the drama.
I was primarily Cumapart and Driptroit bloodied for decades. HE Cats in the old days ran and ran and ran with little issues, seen a number overhauled in the field in dust storms where still survived, did my share of Allis and a few Euc varieties but mainly DD and Cummins.
Started it again today, that's only after 60 seconds of running.
I worked for a guy that had a Acar with a 903 when i was in school. He pulled his lowboy with it. I lived 1/2 a mile from him up a small hill its strait pipe sounded great pulling that hill with one of his HD 11s on the trailer.
Labparamour and RZ--------------are you still coming this direction tomorrow? Work in the shop is looking a little thin for Saturday so if you come over arrive around 9:30 to 10:00 a.m.. There is also a rather large street rod/car show this Saturday so there will be extra entertainment with that if you want too.
That is still a plan, We were going to be there about noon, I can adjust my time a bit.
Noon is fine-work will be fairly dead by then-most of it will show up Sunday morning.
Looks like we will be there about 10ish.
Sounds good-{about 10ish} that sounds like Nige. I like reading his reply's.
I will be spending tomorrow at the Volkswagen place doing the afore mentioned wheels brakes and tires party, while having an acute desire to dodge a tumbleweed and fondle a combine...
I prefer the Noon thirtyish somewhere in the world time frame, Beer Thirtyish is another!!
OK so I am not in the Wally World neighborhood as much as I would like to caress the elbow mack... however I must have looked sad cause the VW Service Dept gave me this to take my mind off of things and fun trips missed.
Wooooo....that's fancy
They didn't get my ride done today so they told me to keep it and we will swap it back Monday or Tuesday... By then I will be all mushy about it and have to buy it!
Had a fun time today visiting with RZ and Darrell, they had a look see at most everything with the B75.
Nice meeting you both today. That Mack is gonna be a sharp rig. Certainly one of a kind! Thanks for the tour and lunch. Hope you’re not too swamped tomorrow. Hope to get back over again. Darryl
I had a great time, sorry I had to cut the visit short ,but I was playing hooky from my work. It was good to meet you Darryl, quite obviously we will have to meet up again when TS gets it finished. I'll get a pic or 2 up in a bit.
Those pipes sound as good as they look!
Well I finally brought the cab home to the shop after the body work, I'm almost afraid to start working on it because of scratching it.
Very cool Man... going to miss that lovely green dash though! LOL!
Love that Color!!
Thanks, but the one who deserves credit for the great body work and paint job is {Jose Palomino}. That cab had been wrecked two different times if figured by the types of body filler that was used through the years. The roof was really bad along with the lower right side of the bulk head where the fender extension would bolt on. He had to heat shrink both areas and hand hammered it. He worked off and on straightening the roof for a month, and it is straighter than when it was new more than likely. The body filler he used is paper thin. Also the A pillars were off so he had to push the cab straight to get the door gaps correct.
It looks great! You found a great body man. I’m happy to run over if you need a hand when it’s time to set it on the frame.
Just make sure to clip you finger nails or Truck Shop will kill you!
Edge of my seat, waiting for the next pics. LOL. Very interesting color. Should look super nice with the rest of the truck.
Well it's not going to go at a very fast pace from here on out. I will work on the cab this fall through the winter. I have several things that I have to custom build, one is the visor. But wiring and airline routing will go slow because it is not something to get in a hurry over. Everyone wants to know the name of the color but I just picked it out of a paint chip book at Napa. The boss wants to change the color of the fenders on his next order of trucks to that color with the white cab. But the tint is more purplish with the naked eye than in the photos. Plus it is heavy metal flake-retro.
Building a good fitting well functioning harness will take a lot of measuring and careful planning. Going with a Bulkhead block, basic grommet(Hard Wire) or a Cannon Plug transition thru the firewall? Will only be basic lighting simplistic engine electrical/instrumentation and rear lighting to attach?
Actually I'm using a GM 1972 pickup harness 12 circuit and adding two extra fuse blocks. Set it out in the sun to heat it up Palomino said it helps, so I do what Palomino says. Some extra bling I added today, deck cover.
That poor cab looks like an old Studebaker pickup cab without the rest of the truck.
It was poor when it looked like this.
98% finished with the wiring, just a few small things to finish. installed the cab lights using rivet-nuts. Checked the system with remote power, every circuit checked out perfect. Next will be installing air system then sound deaden-er.
So have you started on the custom body work for the hood and area between the rear of the fender and the cab? That's the area I'm interested to see the blend between the new and the old. In the picture you posted of the other long hood, it looks like he's just got some flat panels bolted in there. Got custom plans for that area? Will you use a second hood to split and add in to the factory hood, or just build all new from scratch?
I think he's going to use two of these at each end of hood and pull on them with a couple D9's till it fits!
HAHAHAHAHA!!!
Good job for an apprentice- " run over to the tool room and ask them for the panel stretcher"
In the photo below you will see the factory fender extensions used on the B75 and B73 models. There bolted to the cowl and bolted to the rear of the fenders, B61 models don't have these. On the B61 the fenders are bolted directly to the bulkhead at bottom of cab. The fender extensions on the one i'm building will be 14" inches longer, The hood will still be a butterfly and custom rolled out of 16 gauge material but the center hood hinge and support will be 2" wide instead of the 1" that Mack used. Plus it will be made of 10 gauge material. But everyone needs to keep their shirt on because it's a long process to get to the end from here. Plus after the hood is made and fits well it has to go to a shop to have louvers pressed down the sides. All of this has to be done in stages to make it work, when building custom vehicles it is a process from start to finish. Making mistakes costs time and money and at my age I can't afford either. I just want it to rival anything on the east coast.
One I did back in 2000, with daylight doors from a 1998 W900
That door [window] is certainly unusual to look at on that truck.
In the last of the three pictures, it still has the old doors? Cleaned up and painted first and then switched the doors?
There were several converted, but this rig was probably one of the first.
Yeah that's right CO, I bought a wrecked 98 379 Pete in Kendrick Idaho and the guy had the doors laying in his shop. I bought them both for $750 bucks, painted them and hung them on it six months after that photo. I also installed a BC 400, 13spd and SQ100's on AG100 air ride.
Some photos of work done so far. Windshields fit to tight so those were removed to shave them for fit. Had to move heater to the right as far as it would go because of the MV3 valve box I built, didn't want the valves in the dash. You can change the dash valves in under 15 minutes the way I installed them. The steering column is from a Kenworth and the floor mount is a clamp for a ATV and the cone is from a Stemco wheel bearing spacer. Anyway here's some photos.
A few more
And some more, probably repeats.
And some more repeats.
Ima liking what I see here.
double that
If any knows where I can find a left handed-manual hand valve for a retarder on Cat powered truck, please let me know. I need one to operate the air Horns. Those have become hard to find. Thanks, Truck Shop
What is that insulation material you are using and how is it attached?
Like the wiring. It's so easy to get in a hurry and ugly it up. You've got nice clean routing and bundling. My only concern regarding that would be the spade terminals at the fuse panel. I have had such bad luck with them. Of course I wasn't doing total restoration. You really made it look sharp, and the MV3 is a nice touch. Everything is so tidy.
Very inspirational!
BV-that is a fairly popular heat & sound suppressor that's a plastic foil film with foam backing and covered with adhesive. You better have it where you want because once down it's stuck.
I'm not necessarily a fan of the spade terminals but when new/these you had to put force on to connect. The problem with them is being removed and installed 20 times they will lose the tension.
I wouldn't worry too much until you hit 325K miles.
Beautiful, clean work!
While I own it, it will be lucky to see 2,500 miles. One truck show at Brooks and up for sale it goes.
Having to cut my own floor mat, so the floor will get 1/8" black rubber and the area under the pedals and up the bulk head will get this.
Nice work TS. Clean and professional as always.
Appears as a marine application insulation I have used on older boats for noise abatement, looks quite at home on the cab.
Had a great visit with RZ and Darryl this morning, By the way everyone today is RZ's birthday. So give him hell about his age.
Can’t wait to see her on the road. She’s gonna be quite the ride!
It was a great visit! I did survive the birthday too.
Hope you had a nice, scenic trip home.
That we did, Went out through Benge and ended up east of Ritzville in the dryland country. From there we meandered home parallel to I90 on some more backroads.
Benge, that was the scenic route!
It's not a bad route. Too bad the county took out the huge cactus that was growing around the stop sign on the road coming in from Ralston. It was kind of a landmark when I was hauling grain.
Should there be any interest in the stock restoration of the this green 1962 B673ST tractor/truck back to working status, I'll post some photos and history up. For now this is how the truck looked just before being placed on jack stands for mechanical teardown: Thanks,
Sure there's interest start a thread to document the process, As far as I'm concerned darn near any old truck being saved from scrap metal is interesting. It's easy to torch one up--- it's damn hard and a bunch of work to save one.
Route 261 and the mighty town of Ralston . That's a happening place.
Alright and thanks. I'll start a fresh thread concerning this tractor. Thanks,
Good for you 1693TA for saving one.
Stock restoration is what interests me most. Even better if it can do a day's work.
Now BV you needn't be so brash.
Will it be at Brooks in 2020? Our ACMOC National show will be in Brooks next July in conjunction with their show. I will be there for sure if I am still moving. I look forward to meeting you and seeing it.
I don't know if I or it will make it, but yes that's the show.
Right now I'm working on finishing the interior, the headliner is at a upholstery shop getting gray diamond tuck installed
The dash is completed, the rest is finishing the interior. Headliner and back of inside cab cover is at a upholstery shop having gray diamond tuck covering added. So It gives me time to work on loading the glass in the doors.
Finished assembling the doors and glass, what a pain staking job trying not to scratch them all to hell. But both doors open and close plus windows operate like new.
I have always fought with that inner when loaded. Needed at least 2 extra hands to get that little track clip on while juggling everything else and of course trying not to destroy/ damage stuff. Looking good. ( said In my best "Chico" impression)
Most all the weather stripping is just universal stuff I bought from Restoration Specialist and Vent window gaskets from Steele Rubber Products. Cost was less than half from the Mack Supplier back east. I used 1968 Ford pickup felts/window sweeps, some very small modifications and those fit perfect.
I completely assembled the register with glass, installed window and door handles with door latch. Held the inner door handle down to get latch through door opening. Slid it into place used two screws to support panel then installed the rest of the screws and only used two hands,lol.
Been years since I had to do that on a B model but think it's about the same on the R models. Trying to not gouge up paint could be tough. But then the trucks in the quarry had more to worry about than a scratch or two on a inner door panel! Just cleaning things up enough that the windows would go up and down could be a trick!
Tread plate matting gives a Good Look, Liking that quite a bit.
Show off
I agree. Where'd you get that stuff?
I went trough and completely cleaned and lubed all the parts to the registers and door latch components, Plus all new weather stripping for the glass tracks. But when I install the window panels in the doors I duct taped around the openings and smeared Napa brand Sil Glide on the tape witch allowed the panels to slide into place with no scratches. https://www.rubbercal.com/rubber-mat/?msclkid=81ab90535e511b5b340fcd8f2227f1f9
Heated mirror or power mirror? (the wire in the door) Looks really nice.
Adding heated mirrors, which was a somewhat tiring process trying to figure out how to run the wire through the door hinge. But Darryl and RZ were persistent that it could be done the last time they were here. So I gave it a second try and {gott'er done}. Thanks by the way.
Went back and looked, wiring damned near to invisible on that hinge, very cool!
Where there's a will, there's a way... But that is one tight hinge pocket.
Just curious Mr Truck Shop. Are you gonna wire those heated mirrors through a relay or just straight through the switch? How bout an indicator light?
Timed relay perhaps ?
There is a spare relay in the fuse box with the universal wiring harness I bought that's fused. But really all that's needed is it be fused. And no indicator light, with the switches mounted on the left side of the dash it's pretty easy to see when something is left on. But 50% of items will only operate if ignition switch is in the on position.
I just added heated mirrors to my truck and that's what I was thinking about using.
I did notice the toggle switches on the left side in one of your pictures. Very nice installation. Thanks!
Timed relay for what? Whenever it is raining or foggy I just leave them on all the time. Keeps water droplets down quite a bit.
So I don't forget.
Right now I'm in the process of two jobs at the same time while I wait on a few items I need. Installing the headliner and back of cab cover I had diamond tuck upholstered. I have to attach a stainless steel bow to the inside middle of one half of the upper portion of the headliner so both are attached and supported. PITA. but has to be done. The second item is making mirror brackets, The ones I can buy will not fit the holes in the top of the doors mine use arched brackets on top. So I'm building all new brackets out of 3/4" x 3/4" square tube instead of round tube, My machine shop friend has a die to bend 3/4" square tube for the end mirror supports. I'm adding material so the mirrors will work with a 102" wide trailer. Once done those will go to the chrome plating shop.
95% done with the headliner, just waiting on some wind lace for edging on the lower back cab cover. And cut a piece of 6061 with a jig saw and polished it to cover area above the windshield. Aimable dome light will go in the center.-----------------She looks as good as a casket inside she does. Actually I have some flaws here and there but all in all the headliner fit ok. And it was a total pain in the *** to install. The old guy who stitched and covered it did a fine job as far as I'm concerned.
What a pile it was.
I LIKE IT!!!!!
Isn’t it amazing what a little cosmetic surgery can do for an ol’ gal? She’s lookin’ great!
Dave Miller you are going to take a road trip on your Road King to take it for a drive aren't you? You might have to wrestle RZ and Darryl for who goes first I will let Jeff handle being the ref. I will just be a bystander drinking my coffee. lol.
No pics of the pick up day?
OK if you insist,
That's better.
Just remember... None of them had their face in the dirt.
And that's a fact Jack.
Thanks for the pics that is really sharp!
I really need to!!
I’m in! Just say when!
TS that is about an art piece... Will there be arm wrestling or winning a poker run for for the seat? After today I don't think I can go with my left but the right is still workin'.
MD are you hurting/ I read the thread one liner. Did you break some ribs? if so i'm real sorry for your pain-I know how uncomfortable that can be, been there.
I suppose drawing straws would be best. I also think we could have a hog calling contest too. But I will still be a bystander drinking coffee.
I appreciate kind thoughts. Yeah I did... I have been mucking out some material we had decked in a temporary yard I decide that I was going to move the dump truck. There is a couple of pieces of loose debris on the grade. I pick them up and tote them over to the debris pile and step on this patch of snow... which was actually a 2 foot deep hole. I did the on foot version of a ground loop. I am now doing my best John Wayne impression for awhile. LOL “ It will feel better when it stops hurting.” It always seems like it while it is snowing or iced up when I cleverly decide to pirouette right into the deck. As much as I hate 12 foot long snakes Florida is looking pretty good right now.
Very nice. Getting closer to rolling coal.
Ouch... I got stupid on a snowmobile once and partially separated my sternum. That was bad, slept in my recliner for 3 months. The doc said it was an easy fix if I wanted them to split me open and wire it back together. No I didn't laugh when he said that.
MD Been hurt a time or two and while yes it will quit hurting at some point just take it easy a bit Might be a hint to slow up some!! Best wishes and hope is a short term problem Dave
May hurt to laugh but have to tell. Buddy I worked with came to work hobbling aggravated & disgusted, had been on Vacation for a week and was coming back to work, one pant leg seemed 'Fuller' than the other and had this noticeable limp where the boss sent him home on Sick Leave until better able to walk. Seems he had a ATV accident, was rolling pretty good clip across a heavily grassed pasture forgot there was a substantial Ditch in the grass and hit it fast enough to become Airborne(He DID Get a Badge), ATV was following rolling up behind him performing its Own flips where it impaled him just aside the evil Brown Eye!!!. Was the Big joke FOR YEARS as to he having a ATV stuck where the Sun Don't Shine!!! That brought out the Artists in our little entourage IN FORCE! He was SERIOUSLY Lucky in that the handlebar missed his major leg artery by mere millimeters but had to pull the leg off the handlebar grip end to get back to the house. This same Fella was installing Roof Trusses on a shed with a Air Nailer, went to shoot a Toe set nail into the base of a truss, slipped, gun went off and then realized had a sore spot on his Chest, was a 16P nail sunk to an inch from full length in his LEFT Chest region, that one missed anything vital as well but he had to be anesthetized to remove it!! Was in that same construction process went to hit a block with a four pound to shift it a might, was a Shade TOO Close hammer bounced and hit him SQUARE in the Forehead knocking him out, there was CONSIDERABLE artwork with his name upon it after those too!!
That is the cruel part of getting older... you hardly notice till your mid fifty's. Then it adds something new to the party on a semi annual basis it seems. Going to retire in 6 years or so. Will take slowing up under advisement. Going to the dump now and a few more of the weekend necessities. I will be the one walking like the Duke, slowly.
Ouch. Hope your recovery goes well, MD. I didn't break mine, but I sure bruised them bad in a snowmobile incident. It hurt like hell to roll out of bed in the morning, get out of a chair, etc.
Almost done with the visor, it came off a Pete 379 and was fairly scratched up I polished out most of it. I had to cut 10" out of the middle to narrow it-used a skinny wheel. Plus build a center mount which was a total by eye affair and a bunch of time, I made a center cover for the splice area out of stainless also. Top and bottom mirror brackets are done just need to finish the mirror mount end hoops, then off to the plating shop. And the floor is finished. Just need seats, wheel and lap belts. thanks for looking
I’ve been waiting for an update... Visor and mirror arms look great!
That visor was a aftermarket and made out of 1/16 stainless, I don't know what grade of stainless it was made from but real tough to cut. Went through three large skinny wheels to remove 5" from the center of each side. Those floor sill plates are also stainless. I had to rebend the ends of the visor to fit the cab using a leaf break. I formed all those parts and pieces and fit them one at a time. Plus I had to make a new floor plate that's under the shift boot. That boot is a KW by the way.
That is a masterpiece. Did you look at using Aero-tube for the mirror mounts?
I had a bunch of 1/16 by 3/4 square tube in the shop so that's what it got, plus I wanted to use square tube for the mirror brackets because it's different.
All sliding together Nicely!! Must be close to swinging cab time by now.
One of a kind and badass.
Right side floor.
Will comfy barko lounger air seats fit in that cab or would you end up with a smiley face on your belly from the steering wheel?
Am thinking Violet Velour Seat covers!!
I don"t have much of a gut, But when I turn 68 I'm sure my belt buckle will be leaning towards the ground.
Mine does that now
No Ratrod. Plenty of homeless R-190s for that kind of stuff.
What you mean I can't weld a couple of saw blades to hood? How about two fake hood scoops?
Well... it is your truck.
If there’s anything done to that truck that even remotely resembles rat rod I’ll drive up and have you thrown in a rubber room!
I sure hope it's going to have a snifter that goes all the way to the headliner. Then it would be cooooool. Supertrucker.
I like joking about it it gets a laugh or two. And no pi$$ant 5' shifters, those are for people who think their Herman Munster.
See this 60's TV rod, note the skull shifter--long before this group of truck drivers of today thought they had something new.
Those things make me think of the old Rat Fink cartoons.
I can probably supply one of those white shop coats with REAL LONG sleeves.
Big Daddy-Ed Roth
Almost mentioned that as well!
Are you referring to my family's coat of arms?
Just a couple ideas , junkyard might like them.
I’m at a loss for words and that seldom happens.....
You could go whole hog arab look like this: But what I really want to see, is the little fringe tassels all around the interior at the top of the windshield
Those are called dingle balls, you guys came up with some dandy ideas
So that Munster car, I was looking at the picture, and the 10 intake tubes, and I read up on the car. 289 mustang engine, with 10 carbs. Must be quite a custom intake with the 10 feeding into it? I've read about trying to snycronize 3 and 4 carb set ups. What a job that would be to set up 10?
Those actually fed into a plenum intake manifold but I remember reading something on that years ago that only four of the ten carbs actually worked. In those days of wacky show cars there was a bunch of truly fake stuff done for the wow factor for lack of a better term. Although Edlebrock did build a 6-2 barrel cross ram intake for the small block chevy only the center two operated for normal street, at a little over half throttle the other 4 carbs opened. A 289 has a 4" bore with a 2 3/4 stroke and it will rev but that many carbs and cfm would drown it. IMO
For motorcycles with multi-carb I used one of these-a mercury stick, very accurate. I use to use a Uni-Syn for multi side draft carbs on foreign cars such as a 240 Z.
Had the water version for 2 and 3 cylinder snowmobiles back in the day.
The water type work well but the weight of the mercury gets it right down to level. Although I knew guys that wouldn't use anything but the water type so who knows, just a preference I guess.
Both my brothers had Pontiacs with Tri Power sets. One TRIED to keep the Vacuum secondary set up , 1 to 2 to all 3, synchronizing that like to drove ALL of us nuts. Somewhere along the lines and days gone by mods to linkage, carbs swapped or modified internally, changes in springs, searches, talks with old Poncho freaks and FINALLY got it to work for a week. Started acting stupid so went BACK to mechanical set up 1 to 3. Managed to work on one odd '32 Bentley with twin Stromberg carbs, the old man could not see well enough to do his own tune ups so allowed me to perform. REBUILT the plugs(Reused the Steel base), he had all the parts shipped in special from Bentley from UK. Platinum spark plug electrodes, VERY pricey at $135 EACH for six. Had ALL his own tools even those built by a British company for Bentley in a Rosewood machinist looking toolbox. Special everything to set up JUST for a tune up and took a full day. Adjusting the two old Strombergs was easy with Mercury manometers. Coolest part was the Supercharger, crankshaft driven on the nose. He was in the US with Macair as a consultant for nearly eight years, had the car shipped here to be able to keep control of it, only drove it occasionally. I was allowed to drive the car ONCE, never asked to again as just awkward RH Drive, he was quite adept at it. That in the late 80s.
When worked a Jeep Dirt Dragster with a coworker in 84 was learning Hillborn Alcohol injection, eight stacks, high pressure, HIGHER Volume feed system on naturally aspirated GM 427, IIRC Displacement was closer to 460 on destroke overbore. Temp, humidity, engine heat, fuel hygrometer reading and temperature a LOT went into calcs for the 'Pills' to be swapped prior to a run. Only 300 feet drag on paddle tires, front axle mostly plowing air, used 3.5 to 4 Gallons of methanol fuel. Do not have any idea where the old jeep ended up.
Almost done with the mirror brackets, very time consuming. Everything has to bolt up just right because there can be no modifications once those are chrome plated. Will post a photo or two.
Photos of mirror brackets I whittled out.
That is a Unique look, great choice!!
Bet there's not another set like those
She’s looking great!
I have to tell the truth the last five months for me have been a real bad roller coaster ride, I'm not going explain it. But It came real close to never being finished, If not for my friend Steve and his son Bobby. It's now setting in Steve's shop I can do some small stuff to get it drive-able long before April. Everything lines up, all holes match.
Glad you were able to work out the trouble you faced! Looking good!!
Top pic- looking over the grill at the cab and stacks- looks great! Glad you’re able to keep fixing her up.
Sweet to see cab mated up!! Glad to hear worked thru trouble times!
Nice looking, clean build. I like the brackets for the stacks, clean and simple. Keep on trucking, TS
The hood length came out at 71.5", Very close I was figuring 71 to 72". The throttle linkage, clutch linkage and steering slip shaft from column to steering gear all came out as planned. Plus I made a miscalculation on position of shifter early on and thought I would need a RCL shift control. But I had to build a new floor cover panel over the transmission and discovered the shifter would come up through the floor without the RCL. And to my surprise with cab in-place the shift stub on the transmission lines up almost dead center of hole in shift boot.
I love when a Plan falls together better than expected!!
This is such an amazing build! A true labor of love. Not many with the time, talent, and money to pull something this great together!
Thanks for sharing your progress T.S.it is like a perfect storm of knowledge, talent and creative instinct. I want to share pics of the floor panel i am working on just like the one mentioned in your recent post. I made the floor panel from an old Bilco bulkhead door panel.
Thanks for the complements folks, the money end of it not so much. Several people have donated some very expensive parts to this job, and truthfully without those items it wouldn't be where it's at-at this stage of the process.
What is the story on the Allis engine in your icon?
AKA-The Purple People Eater. The Big Al as it was called was only on the market for a few years. Allis had trouble with piston issues mainly, The engine needed to be brought up to temp slowly or it ran the chance of sticking a piston. Plus parts availability was real poor. So the Big Al died a quick death. Although when it ran---it was a runner. I had seen several years ago, mostly you found them dead on a engine stand with a hole in the side out behind a shop. I knew a guy that had one in a Freightliner C.O.E., the first one didn't last long-the second engine made it 600,000. It was a engine that didn't like being hurried til full temp. I put it in the avatar because it's different.
25000 series Equipment engine was to Big Al as the 1693 was to a D343
I'll be danged, I didn't know Allis had truck engines. I'm assuming they were made in the '70s?
Chalmers was into Everything. HE, farm equipment, industrial equipment, multi use engines, Electricity generation generators and the systems that ran them, electric motors, huge pumps even built Nuclear Reactors. Is pretty well what did them in being too many irons in too many fires. https://public-blog.nrc-gateway.gov...e-of-decommissioning-a-one-of-a-kind-reactor/
And if I am remembering correctly they also made stone crushers! I believe there was one I spent a good amount of time shoveling the spillage underneath one summer in 1969! Did some digging and found a list of some of the stuff they were into back in 1932 in a Pit&Quarry Handbook from that year. The one I shoveled und looked like the top picture on the left side of the page:
Our local small power generating dam has A-C turbine generators in it. I think they went in in the 30's when they raised the height of the power building.
I know were there is a 80s model truck that has a small AC engine in it.
A lot of truck guys would love a AC powered truck I have only seen one.
Just caught this thread, nice work. Coming from major Bulldog teritory, a cummins and an eaton fuller is a rat rod. Should be a 711 and a 12 speed, and green interior of course, and spoke wheels. Something funny happened when Macks went to the west coast.
It did start out true Bulldog. With budd wheels
With Guinea Green interior
It's no more a rat rod than a B73 with a 335 and Spicer boxes. Which I have seen, factory built. And rat rods don't look like this B75. It's not the first time I've gotten flack for this conversion. You do something different and people think you cursed the bible. Actually after working on the cab and building a frame for it, It's become a better truck than it ever was.
Old Bulldog not seen such a soft well cared for life!!
I am not giving you a hard time, your work is fantastic, and your work ethic, and fabrication skills are second to none. I was going for being witty. For some reason West Coast Macks are built differently than east coast macks. Just visited a guy who has i would guess 30 b model macks, and of the 30 he pointed out the B75 or 73 that came factory with a cummins, as being a rare beast. Mack is the only Manufacturer that made there own engines, transmissions, and drive trains and manufactured items down to there own spokes and axles. Mack is the major manufacturer of trucks in New England, and a Mack without Dayton wheels until recent is rare. Guys around here think the Mack 12 speed is the best transmission ever made and why anyone would use any other is crazy, had one customer talk about removing his 18 speed to install a 12 speed. Carry on with the fantastic work, you are obviously at the top of your craft.
Interior photo of after and RZ's before photo above. Sometimes I look at this stuff and find it hard to remember just what a pile **** it was in the beginning.
I have to admit after seeing it in person, it is very hard to believe its the same sheetmetal.
I just realized it needs a compression release cable in that hole on the left of the dash.
That was a fuel primer pump mounted in that hole which now has a chrome button plug. When I fart that's going to be the compression release.
make sure all limiting valves are in working order
All limiting valves are in working order.
Done with clutch linkage-works perfect, the right amount free play and clutch brake combined with stroke. throttle linkage done, air system completely plumed, all wiring {except headlights and front signals} completed and all tested ok. Cab leveled and bolted inplace. Things left to do-finish steering slip shaft-1/2 hour, install shifter and air control, install battery boxes and batteries plus cables. Then I can drive it back to the shop.
YAY!!!
How engineering the rear front fender supports? Been bugging me a little.
What’s the anticipated date to christen it? Miller and I need to plan a trip!
Those will just be longer and cut by machine. Junkyard, that I won't know till I'm almost done. Sorry I just don't know.
Junkyard, that I won't know till I'm almost done. Sorry I just don't know.[/QUOTE] No worries. I know how those projects go.
No worries. I know how those projects go.[/QUOTE] I resemble that remark!!
I should be able to move it in about one and a half weeks or less.
Could be that some of us would like to see that.
Drove it back to the shop and have a few small bugs to work out. But after setting from August til now without running-it started running ruff and erratic idle. So I pulled the rockers boxes removed the injectors and pump-having those tested and repaired as needed. And installed old fender extensions plus will temporarily install fenders to figure the length of extensions.
Battery/step boxes look nice, a project I would love to do but not enough time or place.
Done with the bugs, when I left the shop yesterday air was at 115 lbs, this morning about 112 lbs. Only thing to wire is the head lights and signals. And as far as the guy who's looking at buying it, he knows it ain't going cheap and he is {A-OK} with that.
You're gonna have to give us a chance to see it before it goes.
Would love to see it, too, if it works with your plans. Would also be nice if you could show off your beautiful work at Brooks before she goes down the road.
Truth is I'm getting tired and starting to run out of steam, I just want to finish it and move on. Basically set on my *** and not do much of anything. After 46 years of being on the floor and around people whining and just people in general I want the last years to be as quiet as possible. I have had enough of the business. Don't worry RZ and Darryl it has a ways to go til finished. You will see it.
Your work is fantastic and she’ll make someone a nice ride and you a nice retirement check. Sucks to go from being a pleasure to a pain...sorry about that. Totally understand about people! Other than the grandkids and my dogs, well, and you guys....
Wasn't quite done with the bugs, trans had to much gear lash and had a terrible growl at idle. So removed the 15 and installed a RTO12513 ,plus the PT pump I had rebuilt-the governor promptly took a dump-so back to the pump shop with that for the second time. Seats are installed and mirror brackets showed back up from the chrome shop. They did a nice job on the plating except they bent two of the mounting surfaces that bolt to the doors. I was able to straighten them without messing up the chrome. The new oil sending unit was junk had to replace that plus the tack has been a source of problems. Just waiting for the second shoe to drop. There are always problems when building things like this but it is trying my patients. But it does have good oil pressure 42 on throttle and idles at 22 hot. I have to install a resonator on the exhaust though { with the 6" straight pipes the jake so raspy/ratty sounding it will hurt your ears} You have to cover your ears in the shop-it would shake the peas off some old fellers dinner plate three miles away.
Always something on projects, get one piece working well another decides time to throw up, kind of like running a day care center where never know which one will show the next tantrum Knowing one is coming!!!
That's how my last week went. Started on a brake job and finished rebuilding my entire front end with multiple headaches along the way. Keep up the great work @Truck Shop , your build is quite impressive and I look forward to your updates
Some photos of finished interior, Those are mid back seats that I disassembled the lower part of the seat and was able to drop the seat another 2 1/2", with air I have about 3 1/2" head room and I'm 6' 2" tall or I was before back surgery. And some photos from the side so everyone can get an idea how long a 6' hood on a B model would look like.
A few more
I'm anxious to see the hood and fenders now!! I didn't realize until these pictures how long the nose was!
My resonator just showed up, to remove some snap crackle pop from the jakes.
Sure would love to know how to do all that stuff. Nice work.
Looks pretty special to Truck Shop as well: Looks to be at the foot of the bed.
I didn't come by it over night, it took years of work to get to this level. But I'm still just a #3 grease monkey. Thanks for the compliment.
Finished the last piece before I move on to the filler panels between cab and fenders. I built this low cab guard {mainly a exhaust stack support} and added some grab bars to the stack mounts.
Very nice! Thanks for sharing.
That is looking pretty sharp TS !!!
I let one of our best drivers {been there 20 years} take it for a couple of spins around the block today to see what problems might be lurking that I'm not seeing. All I got out of him was a big grin.
Fenders should be completed Friday or Monday. Then he has to repair some slight accidental damage that happened to the drip rails above the doors, happened when moved to the other shop in January. Friends were going to surprise me by setting the cab on and well the rails got bent, couldn't get upset at them they were just trying to help-mistakes happen. but Jose can repair them. That's why I haven't installed the mirror brackets/mirrors. Installed the Luber Finer behind the cab between stack and tank-mounted to frame. So the Drivers side will be blank and only one air cleaner on the right side. I didn't like the weight of the luber finer hanging on the fender extension. You can see the bent drip rails below.
Awesome pics.... all of them. Gotta love a 2 stack Mack with a window in the back.
Here's an 86 that I had . First and last new truck I had the misfortune of making payments on. This pic was taken just outside of Kent by the Boeing plant. With an E9 @ 500hp, Mack 12 sp, camel back suspension on Mack bogies, 1200 rpm's got you 65 mph. But this E9 would run 2100 if I saw the need. I dont miss the payments but I sure miss the truck.
Always liked a Superliner. Never owned one, owned an R and a pile of CHs, and a bunch of various IHs, and 1 WhiteGMC, but no SuperDog.
Speaking of E9s, I was coming along in one of 2375s with an L10-300, on the governor at 72 mph. A Mack with wet logs piled above the bolsters pulled out in front of me from a dead stop. I decided since I already had my speed up, I'd pass instead of braking hard. I got up beside the tractor just enough to see E9-500 on the hood before he left!
Really like the last pictures in this post! The first pictures remind me on how big a job it was just to replace a window regulator and weather stripping. Rusted up parts and seized screws were normal 20 years ago. There is also a trick to work all that through the door. That is on of the least struggles you have had. Looks great! Thanks for sharing!
Those regulators are fairly easy really, main thing is use a bunch of duct tape around the opening in the door to keep from beating it all to hell. Thanks
I was lucky as 98% of the Macks I worked on, DM and the older B Models were stocking trucks in stone quarries or gravel beds so a scratch or two were not a problem. But yes if you did a few of them in a short period of time you could do it without too much trouble. Real problem was when they were bound up with stone dust and you could hardly get the window up or down. Then they could be a real bitch to work on. A little funny story about one quarry where they got their first new DM model. About a year latter I was up there working on some other machine and the driver of the new truck came over to me with a problem. He said he really liked the windshield washers for cleaning off the stone dust but when they ran out of fluid they could not find the reservoir to refill it! Talk about the "deer in the headlights" look when I opened the right side door!
Got to remember this old girl spent her life hauling logs, I saw this same rig around 1972 rolling down Main st Cle Elum with a six log load. There were some rusted bolts but most of the screws in the doors and cab weren't that tight, shaken loose on logging roads. But I have a small fortune in polished stainless and stainless fasteners. The cab and doors are full of them. The frame is all grade 8 flange bolts and stover nuts. My best guess for dollars spent on fasteners----$500.
Opps! Sorry I drooled on s few of your pics TS.
I've drooled on the truck. And left a little hide on the original chassis.
https://westslope.craigslist.org/hvo/d/mc-coy-1960-b77-mack/7095594684.html Ran across this 1960 B77 $6000.00
For 13,000 you could fix the cab and sheet metal.
Fenders will be finished this Wednesday afternoon late. I have already done most of the design and math to make the fender extensions/filler panels so those will go fairly fast. Then a coulple of days to paint them. Been building a new center support out of 1/8 x 2" stainless with stainless hinge both sides for the hood, with a sliding joint at the radiator end. A ton of sanding and polishing on the stainless support which is 71" long, Hinges and hood will be fastened with 3/16 polished stainless huck rivets, a mere .55 cents a piece for 48 of them. So it shouldn't be too long and I can post some photos of fenders installed maybe.
Finally picked up the fenders on Monday, will work next week building the cab to fender extensions. And finished up building a new center hood support and hinge bar. It's all made from 1/8" x 2" stainless with stainless hinge and polished stainless rivets plus stainless button head mounting bolts, I built a sliding expansion joint into it where it mounts to radiator top tank. Five hours sanding and polishing that stainless.
Fender extensions-I hand cut the pieces for the extensions using a die-grinder and skinny wheels then hand formed/rolled the skin over a 1/4 drum, one to finish. Those two pieces will fit between fender and filler panel from cab to fender. I cut the panel with plasma and creased it with a break to point it toward the radiator cowl. Each panel will get two horizontal re-leafed braces the entire length of the panel which will be riveted in place. The top of the panels will be cut a ta slight angle for hood-might be able to see the marks. The extensions were made from 14 gauge and are custom cut/fit both fenders for perfect radius.
Extension pieces.
Beautiful work!
Beautiful work!
You are an artist.....with a damn big canvas to work on!! This truck is awesome and you are a talented man...a mechanic, a fabricator, and a designer.
I drew this in 2006, at the time I had no intention of building one but if I did it would look some what like this. And thank you for your compliments JWeir.
Sooo- how about a '59- because you'll need something to do when this one is done? https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/hvo/d/north-bend-1959-mack-b75/7130158360.html I'm expecting you got a lot done, with your holiday weekend, because I didn't get anything done.
Photos
I think we have a winner
Looking pretty SHARP!!
Man, that thing shines like a diamond in a goat's @$$. Incredible work. So much attention to detail, so much patience.
Thanks, but I will be glad when I turn the last bolt or screw. I'm getting real tired.
just the hood yet ? looks like that should do it
The hood, filler panels over top of fenders and bumper. I'm having a bumper formed out of stainless that's 88" wide, most are 93" to 94" wide and look like a snow plow. I have to sand and finish polish the stainless bumper.
Finally took it for a short spin to get it up to full temp, run it up to 70 mph. No vibrations, fairly quite for what it is, hard to make a Lexus out of a wheel barrow.
Yea but for the most part the wheel barrow is probably more useful and causing fewer headaches!
Looks a little better with the custom stainless bumper I made. Lots of 400, 800 and 1200 grit sand discs and a small amount of buffing. It isn't perfect but nothing is on this rig.
If that ain't perfect it sure is better looking than anything that left a Mack factory in the last 40 years! Edited the post because I know Macks are built in more than one place!
The only thing that has left Allentown is..... a crap, never mind. There's no way to say it without being political.
Slicker than snot on a doorknob. Its almost a shame to run through bugs with her.
It picked up a few bugs on the drive, The engine runs up good, holds good oil pressure hot, {has a slightly funky idle and a little accessory drive noise --typical 855}. The gear box has the typical slight gear whine but fairly quite on the high side. But it will probably never be used and runs plenty fine for what it is----------{A hanger queen}.
When I see this truck I think of song I heard the other day Phantom 309
Any updates? Saw your weekend pic from the shop of harvest next door. I figured you’re either slammed with work or putting the filler panels on the Mack.... Any more road time? Would love to see more pics!
Because of the virus issues the shop that was going to roll the radius in both pieces to the hood let the older guys go and one of them was the one with expertise on rolling the material. The radius is different from front to back. So I spent a month trying to find another shop that had a slip roller with 3" rollers that was 8' long, They did it but the radius is not really correct, so the guy who did the body work on cab and fenders is hand hammering the hood to fit as best as possible. I have the top fender panels cut but waiting on another shop to run two edges on each through a bead roller, been waiting a month on those. I don't think it will be finished this year, just because of the hold ups. Hard to get anything done. And it's got about a 100 miles on it and ran it up to 75. Other than that nothing really going on.
Sorry to hear the work has slowed down. I know you’ve got a great body man. Keep on truckin’
Did get the alignment done this morning. She was pretty straight-both rear axles were off equally by 1/16", I had toe in set at zero, reset at just under 1/16, caster was dead on at 4*.
Pretty awesome eye and tape measure reading TS To get it that close on the initial build
The guy who did the alignment I have dealt with for years, told the two Snap On sales guys {Mike has a bionic eye, every rig that I have aligned that he has done major frame work on and it's a bunch. Is straighter than 90% of trucks I have aligned that only have 25,000 miles.
It really moves on it's own power, video provided by my wife.
Very cool.
Nicely done!
Man..... That Mack looks sharp. You can tell the detail you put into it by how the door closes!!! It will be a winner with the hood on it for sure.
I agree with all the above, just Sweet!!
Watching you exit the cab reminded me of Unwinding myself from the old Bs when worked at Mack and at the Independent garage.
First class job Truckshop !
Well there probably won't be anymore posts on any progress for several months, at least til the hood is completed and installed. Jose the body guy is pretty independent and pretty slow' can't push him he just gets slower. I figure sometime next March or April, besides I think most on here are tired of it anyway.
Tired of waiting, yeah! That thing is beautiful. Wish I had the patience to turn out that level of sharp.
Definitely not tired of it have loved seeing you build it
That , to me , is a work of art
Thanks, It's a work of something not sure what though.
Thanks for sharing it with use.
Old-iron-habit, Roger was passing through the area yesterday and stopped by to see the mack. Had a nice visit and took him for a ride in the mack. Nice guy interesting to talk to.
I have to tell that I had a blast helping my friend in SE Washington harvest wheat but my visit with Truck Shop put it over the top. Cruising in the Mack put me back 50 years to my uncle's old B Model. But the only thing comparable was the cab size. I was in one sweet ride. No rattles, no sticks flopping around, no windows flopping, no mirrors shaking so bad you could only see headlights. Truck Shop built one sweet truck. I looked up, down, all around, and even under. Pictures just don't do this truck justice. It is impeccable, every hidden line and wire is still secured in such a neat orderly way. No new factory truck has this kind of detail. Thank you Truck Shop for the nice visit and many thanks for the "cruise". And to boot, with the peonies pods you sent for my wife, she says she can't wait for me to get home. Now she wants me back for sure! Many thanks Mike. I really enjoyed your hospitality.
Drive careful and safe trip home OIH.
I picked the wagon up this afternoon from Jose the body guy, been there six days. He worked fitting the hood halves to radiator and cowl curves, lot of work. From where it's at now it looks like the hood will be four pieces, two painted tops {the color of cab} and two polished lower pieces riveted the length to the tops. Be glad when this S.O.B. is done.
Went for a drive this afternoon to see this guy about pressing louvers in the hood panels. https://www.holtonsecretlab.com/portfolio
Can not just cut them out of the locker doors at school anymore can you. That will be a great addition. Look forward to seeing that.
Here are the top hood halves, left side in place on truck with bows installed and the right side on horses ready to install bows. The very front and rear bows are originals and three new hand formed from 12 gauge 3" wide. Where the bottom panels with louvers fit it will take 29- 3/16 huck rivets holding upper halves and lower panels plus the 3/4" x 1/8" strip the bows are welded to. There will be a very thin layer of insulating foam between hood skin and bows.
AWESOME!!!! Thanks for the updates!
Made a great deal today-bought a RTLO18913A-13spd for real cheap, only a minor repair. And just happen to have the odd ball 2.750/54 spline 1710 yoke already. So some time in the next two weeks I will drop the RTO12513 that's in it now for the 18913. It's a way quieter and smoother shifting gear box.
So now you're doing upgrades to truck while it's still in the build stage! Are you sure you don't want to swap in a 6-71T Detroit?
There is room for a 12V but that's the only 2 stroke, if I were to do a engine change out it would get a Series 60 12.7 500 hp. The trans came along as a accident and I had zero money in the other gear box and it is slightly noisy worked ok but noisy. I bought the 189 for 1,000 it's worth 2,500 because it's a halo box. So it was worth it-it's only issue was the slave valve. it came out of a wreck. Plus with one of these projects there's always things to change when it lands in your lap..
Have to change Shift Covers?
No everything is the same except length 1/2" difference but there is plenty of room on the slip yoke.
That's about the cleanest used transmission I've ever seen.
400,000 miles on it. Steamed it off, removed shift bar housing inspected inside and found it in nice shape. cleaned the air shift system tested it and painted it Eaton gray.
I be lucky to change out the air valves, old air lines and gaskets out before I "need" to slap mine on that I acquired. Retired and still haven't made it to point in my life to have wants to be addressed, it's all about needs on a deadline. Still would like to say, thank you for the transmission you gave me and I feel bad for not putting it in instead. Hope it goes in something as it means a lot. Keep up the pictures and work, I aspire to get to that point one day and learn from them.
Just spent 1.5 hrs farting around removing the 12513, nice when everything is clean and bolts are not rusted.
These front fenders laying in the pile of junk are the fenders that are on it now.
Got to work this morning and had weekend paper work done by 7:15 started installing the 18913 gear box and was finished by 9:00. Quiet as a church mouse it is.
Loved days like that but working Chargeable hours kinda sucked.
I'm salaried so no difference to me.
Had a very low constant weep from the bottom radiator tank. Got tired of it and dumped the red coolant last Thursday and filled with green and a pint of additive. It would usually have droplets forming on the lower tank bolts in three days, hasn't weep-ed or leaked anything since. I remember when the red coolant came out the Chevron rep said prepare for seeps and leaks.
Well the shop I took the side panels to F5$ked up the louvers and he realized he didn't have the die for rolling a 90* on bottom edge. I think after he ruined the panels trying to punch louvers {crooked} he decided not to try running them through the bead roller to create a 90. So get more sheet steel and layout and cut two more panels and do something different because I can't find anyone with enough TALENT to operate the equipment/machines they own. These people must just look at those tools wishing they could operate them. I think I will make short stack type lovers out of 90* bent tubing.
Dang that sucks, really didn't want to click on the "LIKE" button!
Oh that's ok-a standard day when dealing with projects like this-rain must happen.
Two new panels cut out using the die grinder and skinny wheels, plus a die I had to make from 3/8"x6" flat bar to hand hammer a 7/16" wide 90* lip on the lower hood panels. The 90* lip came out real good on both panels. Hated cutting up the flat bar for a one time use for a die but had to be done. I will post photos when riveted to upper hood halves.
What is the reinforcing rib for TS? Back side of these panels?
Correct, installed those this morning with 3/16" huck rivets. Just have to drill the top edge and mount to top hood panels then to the paint shop.
Found a used Huck gun for myself Nothing special but they called it a cab kit for the two nose pieces 3/16 &1/4” and gun. Just at a grand shipped. Will need it for the tool box rebuild and several (over a dozen) sleeper wall corroded 1/4” Huck bolts. Will be handy to have around.
That was a good buy, Two types of huck guns early non Magna Grip and the Magna Grip. Magna Grip 3/8 hucks, either way new the gun is $3,500 plus nose pieces.
Magna Grip type. Air over hydraulic, uses ATF for hydraulic side according to the literature I read up.
We got one of those for cab work and for the chip trailers. It seems like it was close to 6,000 bucks for the whole setup but what a great tool to have around.
Will know how good it is as start on rebuild of the Tool Box, be able to get used to how it functions and what to expect of it. MAY end up with buyer's remorse but will find out.
There pretty easy. trick is finding a good source for rivets and collars. The polished stainless are pretty spendy.
Little bit of bourbon, maybe more than usual, few keystrokes on the world wide web and I have went down a rabbit hole. Looks like a rivet gun device on steroids, might have to grab me one of these with starting small.
Found a Huck supplier that has some inventory of where I will start with Blind Rivet Supply.com Flagstaff AZ Will await the tool to make first order
http://www.deanlewisassociates.com/ This is who we use, great outfit.
We use the same company been buying from them for years.
Have a small amount of tweaking to do but------------that's what it will look like plus paint when done. Hood has a few irregularities and might have a few small waves when done but it's the best I can do.
Looks amazing TS, someday hope to get to see it up close. I have an idea what it takes to fix up an old truck but not to do what you have to that thing.
Thanks.
Can only imagine the Runway look thru the W/S!!
It's a long ways out to the dogs ***.
What a terrific job. Again, I'm in awe at your work.
Well I got the the two hood halves back today and one installed. A few small discrepancies where I riveted the upper piece to the bottom on the left hood, but as Gayle would say it goes with the territory when riveting sheet metal. a real slight pucker between two rivets. Other than that it looks Ok, after all it's not factory built. A bunch of headaches in building the hoods. When both are on and everything is done I will post final photos in the thread Showtime. until then this is it.
This photo didn't turn out, but post it anyway.
Who else would like to see a TS and RZ trailer to match? Very nice!
No trailer that fifthwheel will never see grease at least for the short time I own it. After all these years of working around greasy fifthwheels this one can stay dry.
Is it for sale or already sold?
In progress.
It’s beautiful TS !
There's always that dry lube 5th wheel plate. Just saying
I gotta say, that truck is slicker than snot on a doorknob. Just awesome.
I understand TS.
Just Sweet!!!
It took less time to finish, Both hoods are installed, only thing left is the name on the top front of hood {My Last-One}. It's all Done folks---------------end of thread.