I am hoping someone can advise me on removing the stabilizing foot from the end of the piston rod. As can be seen from the pictures there appears to be a plug, maybe screwed in but I cannot turn it. I don't have a manual yet to see how it goes together. Any help would be appreciated. Jim
That does appear to be a nut for sure. Looks like its rusted in there pretty good too. If it were me, I would use a small grinder, maybe the dremel type and grind around the rusted area flatly, ( not into the area) then apply wd40 etc, heat around the nut, not the nut itself and then try and remove it.
I'd scrape the rust out of the hole, use a torch with a neutral-carburizing/rich flame and heat that plug red hot, give it one good tap, and let it cool completely. It should shrink enough to turn right out at that point. I don't have the right manual, our outriggers are American style. ** would sometimes run a hydraulic line through the rod, but this doesn't look like a spot for a hydraulic fitting at all.
Thank you hookedondiesal and Delmer for your helpful comments. The picture of what seemed to be a screw in plug is just a machined recess that probably had something square forced into the hole. I drilled right through and removed what would have been a pin , maybe it was welded on each side, the piston rod pin was a good fit in the piston rod end and that was seized. I then heated the rod end and used this puller, and it did a good job. Now I have to remove the other cylinder pin which has been pounded, probably with a large hammer and swelled the pin and driven in hard. Jim
Good stuff,:thumbsup Thats quite the heavy duty puller you have.
Thanks for the update. Boy was I wrong, at least I didn't say to weld up the hole and then try to get it out. Could that have been the round pin hole that had a square punch pressed into to raise some burrs to keep that pin in place?
Yeah...What are the details etc on this pin pusher/portable press? Is that bottom part fixed, or does it rotate to stay with the pin?
Hi Bowen, Yes the bottom part is meant to stay stationery as the screwed spindle turns. Here are some pictures of the pair of pullers. One for inside and one for outside. The brand name is Licthfield, and old Australian company, not sure if they still exist but they used to make automotive tools of very good quality. These pullers use a inch and one eight diameter screw with a U.N.F. 12 tpi thread and has 8 inches of travel, they can grip something 12 inches in diameter and has a 5/8 inch barring hole for turning. Jim
Those are a damn nice pair of pullers. I must own one! Now the ebay hunt begins... Greyson
Good luck, buy me a set too.:tong
Hi, I am wondering if anybody can tell me what the three bolts down the outside of the fixed part of the stabilizer on each side. I am still trying to obtain the service manuals and parts manual. Jim
Maybe wear pads?
I don't think they are for wear pads (but I could be wrong). If they were, they would have lock nuts to enable them to be adjusted. If the 50H is like my 50HX it will have a welded-in cage at the bottom of the towers which holds eight rectangular nylon blocks which are replaced when worn. Likewise the sliding inner square tube will have eight pads secured by plates that are welded on. Also Jim, if your stab cylinders have the same weird gland nuts (wired in rather than threaded) as the 50HX you might like to view this thread HeavyEquipmentForums on how they come apart. I can also help with how to recover them if the wire is broken. Chris.
Hi Chris, I don't think the 3 bolts on each side are for adjustment of wear, but I don't know what they are for. I think the 50H and the 50HX would probably use the same stablizer legs. There are wear blocks in weld-on cages at the top of the sliding inner square tube but there is nothing like that at the bottom of the fixed towers. My problem was with the bottom of the sliding tube so I re-made the bottom end. My cylinders do have that wire type clip but that did not create a problem. Anyway, it's all back together now and all is good. Jim
One more picture Jim
My guess is the bosses were for reflective chevron plates for roading.
Could also be "plates" attached to those nuts , so the dipper would hit against them for locking when in transport.
Hi Jim, I have to say that's a real nice repair job on the inner legs and way better than how the machine came out of the factory. Are your legs still loose at the bottom? On my machine (which had a hard life before I got it), one of the lower cages was completely missing and the other was almost worn through. I know you have it back together now but for reference, the part number for that cage (retainer) is 3501681M92. The top cages (which you have) are 3501693M2. The wear pads are available in differing thicknesses. I can supply part numbers but I remember they were pretty expensive (you need a total of 32 pads) so I made my own out of industrial nylon. Also, I think I can clear up the mystery surrounding those threaded studs and it's pretty boring. They are simply mounts for the rear road lights (tail lights). While my 50HXS only has two studs on each side you can see how they work in this poor quality photo (and I know, my tail lights are not in perfect condition). My parts book suggests sometimes the mounts go the other way up so the lights can be either high or low mount (maybe for different countries) so may be that's why yours has three studs. Again, congrats on the nice repair job. Chris.
Does anyone know the difference between the ** 50H and ** 50HX? I have spent a lot of time researching to no avail. Thanks
Hi Mickos, Here is a page out of the operators manual about the difference in the engines. If you want a copy of this manual just let me know your email. Jim
Thanks so much for that Jim. I have a manual for this machine but it does not cover the hydraulics or the transmission. Does yours cover the hydraulics and transmission? I just noticed the compliance plate on the machine says Model 50H. I looked up tractor data and many other sites including Perkins website. The ** 50H had the 4.236 engine and the 50HX had the 4.248 engine. The 4.248 has more HP than the 4.236 engine. I looked at photos of the 50H and it looks just like mine. But the engine number starts with LF which by what I can find is a 4.248. So does this mean that someone changed out the 4.236 and put in the 4.248 engine in this 50H? ( or maybe I am reading the numbers wrong, but it does look like LF to me). I am needing to know as I need to buy parts to try and get this thing running. Or is it possible that they forgot to stamp the X after the H on the compliance plate? There was a lot of stuff missing, broken, bolts snapped etc and it did look like someone has messed around with the machine. There has to be something different with the MF50H and MF50HX that can help identify which machine I have. Thanks so much again for your help.
This is what mine says so which one is right?
Mikos, I have the manual with the hydraulics & tranny info. If you need it I can scan it and send if you give me a day or 2. Joe H Already scanned the trans, forgot about it. Send your email and I'll send it.