Good morning I have found several metal debris in the magnetic canister of a JCB 3CX gray cab (1990) during oil drain. The yellow paint particles are due for the inside gear box coloration (no bronze!), The debris area is only one you can see, the rest of canister is clean. I do not know when the precedent owner did last oil change and the interval hours. The machine has about 5-6k hours, no bad sound from converter, very good conditions backhoe! do I need to worry? Thank you very much! Sorry for my bad english...
I would do some pressure and engine stall checks. There is no way to know for sure if your contamination is current or from a previous failure. If your tests check out good, I would clean the screen and change the oil. Run the machine another 10-20 hours and recheck the screen for contaminants again.
I would go with what Vetech63 said does the oil smell burnt at all they look a bit like bearing or the shinny flakes and grey looking iron is normally the bearing housing in trans casing being destroyed . Check for lift in the hand brake disc on the rear for lift as this is often a cause also the 4wd output flange . Trans pressure should be in neutral at 1000 rpm 9.00 - 10 bar and at 2000 rpm 9.7 -11.00 bar at 50 deg c When you pressure testing you should notice say 9.7 bar on the main line pressure or the test port on the top of the box and when selecting either forward or reverse the pressure will drop off and then come straight back to what the original pressure was this is filling the clutch pack with oil. Torque converter break up is normally more aluminium looking debris.
The other thing would be this is a JCB or International transmissions gearbox and not a Borg Warner unit as those are a forward / reverse unit with a 4 speed gear box bolted to it.
Thank you guys! Jeff please can you explain to me this sentence? "Check for lift in the hand brake disc on the rear for lift as this is often a cause also the 4wd output flange" Sorry I don't understand! What do I have to do? So it's a bad news... I very little use this backhoe, it is in my farm. In two years a few hours. I would avoid the open gear box and spending money. If situation get worse in which way I can realize? Another thing, I read on manual that oil quantity is 21 liters, is it correct to check oil level with engine in idle mode? Otherwise with 12 liters dip stick is already at full level Thank you very very much!
Another JCB mechanic told me that probably is the shaft bearing where is splined the hand brake disk due to a spacer worn, may be is the your same idea or not? Is it an expensive fixing?
Hi Lift machine up with the rear legs, Release handbrake lever then go under the machine and go to the handbrake disc which is on the rear of the gearbox and grab the disc and see if you have any movement up and down as the nut in the middle often comes loose causing excess end float allowing bearing to spin and chew gearbox casing away. If you got these bits in the strainer i guess its either a previous repair and they did not clean the oil cooler lines / cooler out when rebuild or you have got a problem starting so do a few checks and clean the strainer and refill and give it some work and see what you got back on the strainer. Would you machine have a gear lever to right with 4 gears and a stalk / lever for forward / reverse if so these boxes are simple to repair if you catch it soon enough before it takes out the entire gearbox as to speak. To check the level with the engine stopped and it cold the level should be on the top mark dont over fill these, if you top them up the dipstick is always difficult to get the level afterwards till the oil goes down. The qty of oil sounds too much it is about 15 liters you will be filling as a wet fill not as a strip down so a dry fill if that makes sense as the torque converter will be filled and the trans cooler as well Please confirm the machine serial number
Ok I let you know! Sn 358470 Thanks a lot! Really!
The S/No has a capacity of 2wd 17.25 ltrs and 4wd version 18.25 ltrs
Many thanks Jeff Unfortunately it's like you said, the bearing clearance is about 1 mm, but for a better accuracy I have to dismount caliper. How many risks there are to work in this condition? I have found repair kit, how many difficult is fix it? (the backhoe is the same you said above!) There is a little inspection door near shaft, is it useful for something? Thank you a lot!!!
The caliper just un bolts but make sure you are safe in respect to rolling away put machine up on its rear jack legs first also gives you more room to work. The inspection hatch i think you are referring to is a plate with 4 bolts in this is a bearing cap end plate you wont see inside the box from there.
Ok, but I were speaking about gear box fixing... I also have work shop manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_UnMSfLf21bU0ZsWEhwUDJScUE/view?usp=sharing
It is a simple box to repair if you have the manual it will give you step by step guide to rebuild if you have to.
Jeff is it possible open the gearbox without separate it from backhoe to change the shaft bearing? So operate under the backhoe with horizontal gearbox... I studied the manual, seems possible I think Thank you!
Some have tried but i would not do it this way for the effort drop the box out as you are half way there as you need to take gearbox support off any way. The thing is you have selector shafts for gear change to align and the 3 shafts in side with seals on and if you find more than you thought you can deal with easily . To remove box we used to put a jack under the sump and a transmission jack or a cradle which fits the transmission housing strip off the props ,,,,gear linkage ,wiring ,oil hoses for the cooler x2,remove bung under neath on the bell housing and mark the flexi plate to flywheel position and remove the 6 bolts and move the flexi plate towards the gearbox as this will then come out with the gearbox saves a mess and damage ,support gearbox with trans jack and remove cross member,remove bell housing bolts and pull off box and you are free When you put it back in same way but change the charge pump seal whilst you can also if you find 2 bolts same thread and size as bell housing bolts cut the heads off and make one half the size of the other and then where the head was grind to a point so as to make a a threaded dowl but put a slot in the pointed end so as a screw driver can remove them. fit the to threaded dowls to the top corners one either side so you have say long left and short right , when you offer up the gearbox so on the left you would aim to put that trough the corresponding hole first this the allows you to swing the box up or down onto the short one and then just push together it is the quickest way trust me. I used to pull out and put gearbox back in on site to change the charge pump seals or torque or box in about 4 hrs on my own.
Under the backhoe I paid attention to the radial clearance of rear axle flange, the nut has loosed (it can be moved by fingers). If I change shims and tight the nut is it ok as procedures? Pinion and crown may be worn for the above issue? Can I check it? Anyway also the gearbox nut (hand brake disc side) has loosed. Thank you and sorry for so many questions
And the bearing obviously
You can secure the nut on the axle a bit but there is a collapsible spacer in there so best way use the correct tool to hold the flange or a pair of Stiltons and buy a new nut and just nip it up making sure not to overdo it . Then pean over the staked part that secures it to the pinion shaft by using a blunt large chisel. As far as the gear box you still need to determine the cause of the metal.