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Michigan 125A

sidb46 ยท 2007-08-16 09:54

I have a problem with the rt. side steering axle on a 125A. I keeps popping the balls in the knuckle out of the sockets. I am at odds to solve the reason as to why, have replaced axle and balls still have same results. Anyone have any ideas, experience with this problem.

Replies28
  1. #1Countryboy2007-08-16 19:08

    Welcome to HEF sidb46! :drinkup

  2. #2surfer-joe2007-08-16 22:53

    The only thing I can think of is that maybe the knuckles are traveling too far when turning. That was one of the limitations to that type of axle, that and being rather weak when operating at full power in a hard turn. You might check the stops to see how far out (or in) they are adjusted. Maybe adjusting them out a bit will help, but it will also further limit (widen) the turning radius. This is all assuming that there is no physical damage or excessive wear to the knuckle, and that all the parts are of correct dimension. Good Luck!

  3. #3rob125a2007-09-08 22:55

    I just got a 125A today The guy said he had the same trouble with his He just welded in plates to hold in the balls???? My problem is the C273 or T18 is slipping when cold all good when up to temp the gears take a long time to grab but they grab good will check for suction air leaks and of pressure tests any help??? on this

  4. #4Countryboy2007-09-09 18:58

    Welcome to HEF rob125a! :drinkup

  5. #5rob125a2007-09-22 22:49

    I need help to find what kind to transmissioni have? r400 converter is a c273 ( not original ) I need to now the pressures Changed the oil to a TO-4 30 and works for two hours then starts slipping and within minutes will do nothing. HELP. Nobody in northwestern Ontario Canada knows anything about the unit.

  6. #6rob125a2007-10-03 21:32

    The transmission is a r400 powershift and a newer c273 converter. Tested for clutch pressure at the regulator and had 0psi at 700rpm, and 50psi at 2000 rpm. tested charge pump and had over 600psi max on gauge. Pulled the regulator apart and cleand. Same psi???? Found pictures of unit on web site and plunger was backwards. Installed correctly and now have these readings nutral 240psi fwd 200psi rev 100psi low 180psi high 120 psi looks like I have to replace the clutchs and do more testing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  7. #7Tom Spivak2007-11-12 19:37

    Michigan 75 AC loader Hi guys, I'm new here and just bought a Michigan 75 AC straight frame wheel loader with Detroit diesel. Has'nt been delivered yet but just would like any insight into this machine. Hoping this post works as I can't figure all this out.

  8. #8Countryboy2007-11-12 23:10

    Welcome to HEF Tom Spivak! :drinkup

  9. #9Komatsu 1502007-11-13 07:15

    Just curious what an "AC" is. We've had a 75A for many years. I assume yours is a later model. If there is anything in common info with the "A" I worked on most of the machine although it's been some time. When did they quit making straight frames - 60's, 70's?

  10. #10Tom Spivak2007-11-13 17:47

    Michigan 75 AC Don't know what AC is either, I know the guys at tractorparts have a couple 75 A's but can't get them to answer any emails. I was hoping some of you more experienced fellows would know. Anyone have manuals?

  11. #11Komatsu 1502007-11-13 18:17

    I have parts and service manuals for the 75A. I don't remember if I have engine - don't think so but mine has Waukesha diesel anyway.

  12. #12Tom Spivak2007-11-13 20:01

    Michigan 75 AC Well, I suppose I'd be awfully greatfull if I could get copies of your manuals, but sure would'nt want to put anyone to the trouble without knowing if they are even close to right machine. I'll try making a few calls first then get back to you to see if you are willing to help out. I really appreciate your reply.

  13. #13Tom Spivak2007-11-14 17:30

    Michigan 75 AC I've been told by someone that claims to have turned a wrench on these things a few times that AC designates that it has a Cummins engine. As well the 75 A manuals should be good for this machine. How can I get copies from you Komatsu ?

  14. #14Komatsu 1502007-11-14 18:49

    If you have broadband, I would prefer to scan everything into a multi-page "tiff" and e-mail to you in one or more files. Should be a couple of hundred pages. If that's no good I could mail you a disc or paper if you want just to cover shipping. I can scan it this week end. My scanner has a document feeder, would not be that big a deal as its all loose leaf. Let me know if you want me to give it a try.

  15. #15Tom Spivak2007-11-14 19:12

    Michigan 75 AC Lets try a tiff file and if you back it up you send me the disc if there is a problem. How can I make this worth the trouble for you?

  16. #16Komatsu 1502007-11-15 07:12

    Happy to help. I like to see the old equipment still going. I'll do it either Sat. or Sun. morning and send it to the e-mail address in your profile. Normally this time of year we're swamped with work. This year we are dead slow, worst year since 1980 for residential work. Man, we really hijacked this thread. Sorry to the thread starter.

  17. #17Tom Spivak2007-11-15 08:22

    Hijackers Yeh, I realized that when I started, but the rules for newbies say I can't start a new thread myself. Sorry to all.

  18. #18Rickytree2010-02-23 20:14

    Do you have any manuals? I got the service. will grab it and look for info on pressures.

  19. #19oldseabee2010-02-24 09:43

    The original post was from 2007. Is the question still relevent?

  20. #20Rickytree2010-02-24 11:48

    That's what I was trying to find out!!:beatsme

  21. #21vev2010-02-24 19:18

    My 45A knuckle came apart also. I believe it to be wear in the pins or bearings that hold the ball and socket together as you can push the top of the tire inward with it jacked up.

  22. #22mourafetis2010-03-08 03:53

    Good day to all!!! I just found this forum and I am very glad to see that there are very interesting subjects. Just to introduce myself, I am a mechanical engineer from Greece and in our family business we had been rebuilding Michigan machines for many many years, so we can help with any question you may have. In the last few years we also are Clark service center so any powertrain question is also welcome!!!! As far as the steering problems are concerned, the problems starts from the wheels being pushed to turn more degrees than they should. Unfortunately I do not have the specification for the degrees but you should weld 2 iron bars together at let's say 30 degrees and then weld "stops" on the axle, so that the wheels cannot turn more. I do not know if it is clera enogh, but do not hesitate to ask again if you did not understand. As far as the 75AC is concerned, if you send me the serial number of the machine I can tell you what exactly machine it is.

  23. #23hayjayhorses2010-10-22 23:48

    michigan 125a weak powersteering Hello I am new to this forum. I bought an old 125a with Wakashaw 195 gasser, Is is a tight machine every thing works well, except the steering is weak. After i run it for a while (30 min.) it is a little better but still tough. I got the original Vickers steering power booster with it, it has some slightly different steering power booster on it. I also have the repair manual. From what i can tell the power steering works off the hydraulic pump mounted on the front of the engine, and draws hydraulic oil from the main hydraulic tank. how would i tell if the pump is bad, the booster is bad or if a line is collapsed? dose the power steering pump have an internal pressure by pass valve? any help would be great.

  24. #24oldseabee2010-10-23 09:23

    Last question first, the pressure relief is in the base of the booster (Vickers, don't know what is in there now). Block the steer stops so the wheels can't turn, should be a gauge port in the base of the booster, the adjustment is in the face of the booster base, uses and allan wrench. Max pressure should be no more then 1000 PSI as you rev the engine with the steering wheel pulled into the steer position. Typically, if there is a great difference in pressure from low idle to high idle with warm oil the pump is worn, but you say the steering get better as it warms up so pump is less suspect. More likely that the pressur relief is set to low or bypassing. The control valve in the booster is operated by the pitman arm and drag link, if ther is a lot of slop in the linkage, the spool in the control valve may not be opening far enough to operate the booster properly. In other words, check the linkage first, pressure next, block the wheels and steer stops, have someone that you trust rev it up and hold the steering wheel over, put a long socket extension or screwdriver agains the side of the booster and listen for the squeel of bypassing oil, may need the cylinder repacked. Look at the oil in the tank, see if it is foaming, might be sucking air through the suction line.

  25. #25hayjayhorses2010-10-23 22:55

    thanks for the info, oldseebee. the other night i cleaned off the steering booster that is on the machine now and I could not find a pressure port or an allen head. As for the Vickers that came off it I found the port and the allen screw I will mess with it tomorrow

  26. #26oldseabee2010-10-24 08:14

    It's hard to believe that there is no pressure relief in the steer system. It is possible that the booster on the machine has a built in relief that is non adjustable from the outside, perhaps built in to the piston as a bypass, or is there any sort of a plug on the base that could hold in a spring and poppet as a relief? Structurally the steer linkage is designed around a 1000 PSI pressure with some redundancy built in. There should be some place in the circuit to install a guage, if not you could put a "T" fitting in the line to accept a guage. You really need to know what pressures you are dealing with in order to troubleshoot the system.

  27. #27Komatsu 1502010-10-26 06:28

    The test plug is pretty small and flush. I had a broken spring in the bypass at one time, just a coil or two broken off the end. A pressure test like described showed a problem.

  28. #28hayjayhorses2010-10-26 22:51

    need more power out of Waukasha 195 I have not found the pressure adjustment yet, but I have not looked to hard either. On the other hand, I run the loader for 3-4 hours a few days ago, and after a half hour of pushing rocks, the steering started working fine. then I used yesterday and today and the steering was OK at first and after 2-3 minuets it was like it should be. Before I got the machine it sat for 2 years, so maybe it needed to be worked. I would like it to have more power. I got it stuck the other day and if it would pull it self better in HI gear (shifter in work position) I could have got out of the hole. In low it would almost get out then spin. Locking diffs would be nice. Anyone know how to get more power out of a Waukasha 195 with an updraft card? My bother suggested nitrous?