More old junk still work good though wakashaw gas engine 4 wheel drive and every thing works needs overhaul smokes a little i use it to load topsoil
It's amazing how many of these are still alive. Ours has the Waukesha diesel.
Tough old machines. I've got an old 280 wheel dozer with an 8V71 that still runs great. There is a post on here about it with a video of it doing a little work. Just look up "Michigan wheel dozer".
I bought this 2 years ago i was looking for a wheel loader to load topsoil when my bachoe was busy and i found this and it works good and alot cheaper then what i was looking for it will get paint this winter and i will post a new pic .I bet that 8v71 sings haha
Thats a cool video you cant beat the soun of that detroit looks like its got plenty of power too
New guy here, Pbean I also have a Michigan 75A, it maybe old but I would not call it junk. It has always started even on the coldest days here in WI. but not today. I have been useing a 12 volt deep cycle battery for the last three year with no problems but today I had to pull it to put it on the charger. I do not care for the positive ground hook up to the battery this loader has. Question can this be change over some how to neg. ground without to much trouble, it dose still have the OEM generator on the engine. Northern
Deep cycle battery? Great to see you guys keeping the old Iron working! They were certainly designed for a long life. Northern, I suggest you use a battery designed for the job. Deep cycles are designed for low current constant loads, as well as to be discharged repeatedly during their life (RV type applications). Equipment and automotive batteries are designed for High current short term loads (starting) with immediate recharge. Either battery will have its life shortened if used in the wrong application. Bob
I did this to ours years ago. Very easy as these type of conversions go. All the gauges will work properly. The starter still turns in the same direction - they don't care about polarity. The generator can be polarized to work as negative ground with a new regulator, but you're far better off to change to an alternator. I used the basic GM car alternator with built in regulator of I think 60 amps or so. The original generator is very small, maybe 20 amps and will not keep up with lights and a heater. We were charging the battery every day after working all night on snow before I changed to an alternator. We ran that basic GM setup for 10 or fifteen years with very little trouble.
Thank you for the replies, I do have a GM alternator I can use so I just need a good battery and than I should be set to go. I do see I will have to change the pulley on the alternator, it has a narrower belt width then the one on the generator and maybe some work on the mounting brackets. What about the electric fuel pump that is on it, will I have to get a new pump or will the old one work?
Northern i have a one wire gm alternator on mine it works great and i put it on with out much trouble at all and it was about 60$ i couldnt have got the generator rebuilt for that and your regulator is inside alternator so its less connections to deal width.Your fuel pump should work with either polarity my mechanical pump is leaking thinking about switching to electric fuel pump also would like to see some pics of your loader if you have any
Ours is Waukesha diesel although it almost seems like Waukesha used the same block for both as ours has a blocked off mounting point for a gasoline engine style fuel pump. I believe any aftermarket fuel pump with two wires will work if wires are reversed.
The original regulator is VERY expensive. I remember paying something like $85.00 and that was many years ago. Positive ground regulators have been scarce for a long time.
The electric fuel I have has only one wire, I beleave this is a pos. ground pump. I replaced the pump a few years ago with a new one I found on ebay. I do see where a mechanical pump would go, it is covered with a small plate. This is a gasoline waukesha 190GLB and I will posts some pictures soon. I had some pictures on my old computer but none on this one yet. thanks for the help. Northern
fuel pump My Allis 715 TLB came with the mechanical lift pump bypassed, and an in line electric fuel pump. It seems to work well, and sure makes bleeding the fuel filters easy. Northern, I suspect you will have to observe polarity, and with a one wire pump that may be a concern. My pump has 2 wires, so I think the case is insulated from ground. At any rate, most auto parts stores stock a low pressure in line fuel pump for about $35. I'm not sure if this procedure is acceptable, so if anyone has any experience with using these pumps on Diesel engines.... please advise.
A lot of trucks came with electric lift pumps. We had a couple of IHs like that and it does make bleeding super easy, especially when a truck driver runs one dry.
That makes sense i was thinking your fuel pump was two wires but sounds like you might want to look in to a universal fuel pump i always keep an extra one laying around just in case have to rig something up to get something back going temporary
pbean, I like the idea of the one wire gm alternator, so I have this along with a new battery on my list. Also an extra universal low pressure fuel pump just in case my one wire pump won't pump. I have found out the waukesha 190 gas engine in this loader is the same engine in the oliver super 88 farm tractor.
that is good info to know my neighbor has a super 88 diesal
I took a few pictures today of my Michigan 75A, I removed the generator and I'm waiting for the little brown truck to bring the one wire alternator.
Just curious, what's the box on the hood?
Nice to see the old stuff working we like to make sure our iron has at least 30 years experience. On the alternator conversions if you run a fairly heavey wire from the alt out put post to the power post on the starter you save your wiring from the 60 amp load, the amp meter won't work this way but its much easier on the wiring:Banghead
The box on the hood, I guess I would call it a gang box, there is a grease gun in there, a BFH, a fire extinguisher and a few hand tools. The 100 amp one wire alternator showed up but now I'm worried that I will get to use the fire extinguisher for the first time when I smell the wires burning, thanks Oldiron. I was planning to run the one wire to the battery, (question) is this not the same as running it to the power post on the starter?
yes it is. and it will save on wire.
Thats pretty neat northern when i first got mine i was lookin for pics of the 75 to see how the doors work thats about the best pic of a good cab i have seen thanks i like the side panels on the engine compartment too are the a pain to work on the engine?Does yours have heat?
The side covers come off easy, they are just hung on a lip on the inside of the hood and two hold downs hold it from lifting up on the bottom, they are also part of the heater along with the puller fan on the engine. The heat comes in from behind the seat. I pull the side covers in the warmer months when in use but put them back on when I park it. Tomorrow I'll put the alternator on and the battery in and do a little testing.
Thats what mine must of had at one time i wonder if i could find a set of side panels for mine gota be a parts machine somewhere that makes sense about the heat too
Speaking of a parts machine, I thought I had found one this spring setting behind a building about 30 miles from here, it's been setting there so long that the tires are in the ground just about up to the wheel and when I found the owner, an older retired fellow, I offered to pay him whatever he wanted for it and he just would not let it go. He did tell me to check back with him later. I will
In 1982 I helped a friend retore yours big brother the 175.Atleast your hydralic pump is half the size and it doesn't take two people to move into position
I used to have one of those 75's. I bought it back in the early 80's and sold it (cheap)about 10 years ago. It had a 6cyl. Waukesha diesel in it but it wasn't the original engine. I believe these had 4-71 Detroit's in them, correct?
Mines a wakasha gas very quiet rather have the detroit
Really, I'll always have a soft spot in my heart for a screaming Detroit diesel.
Actually the original engines were either Waukesha gas or diesel. A lot of different Michigan models were repowered with Detroit. Our 75A still has the diesel. Our 175A was repowered before I bought it with a 4-71. I think the original engine in that may have been a Cummins just judging from where the hood was cut and patched. On edit: there is no way a 4-71 would fit in a 75A without major surgery, maybe they would have used a 4-53 in the old days.
you guys Have to check out the video from clawed baxter of the michigan wheel dozer earlier on this post that detroit sounds real good with the straight pipe if you havent already seen it
Well the 175b I helped my highschool metal shop teacher with had a factory cummins diesel with straight pipe.The trojan of same year had a 871 in it. I would rather run the Michigan over the trojan straight pipes.
Check out my michigan in the for sale ad with new paint
I was just wondering if you sold your loader ?
No I have not have it in front of my house for sale a couple people looking at but not more then that.
Loader painted Well i painted it and put it on its way was a good loader
I just bought a Michigan 75a, & cannot seem to find the Serial Number. I've been told it's inside the cab, to the right & behind of seat, but I can't even see the rivet holes where the plate may have once been attached. Am I looking in the right place? Thanks
From the top of my head I think it was inside on the right side behind the floor levers and kind of low down.
Hmmm... I'm not seeing it there either, but between flakes of rust & a sloppy spray paint job, it might be there. When it stops raining, I'll wriggle my head down there. Thanks
Nope,,,Nothing there ( anymore ). I've contacted the following trying to get info on this machine, ( I have the S/N etc. from the Waukesha engine )...
That's odd... Reply posted itself as I was typing, anyways, I've contacted Waukesha / Dresser Volvo Minpar Sycamore Tractorparts I wonder if there's someone I missed that might have info? Thanks
I do have some information on the 75A, What are you looking for?
Great! Where is the Serial Number located? I understand that they came in Series I & II. Is there some characteristic that will tell me what I have? I'm going to have to get a Service Manual for this machine, if I knew the S/N, or even which Series I have, I should be able to get the right manual. Thanks
Most of the Michigan loaders have the serial number stamped somewhere in the frame and on plate, sounds like the plate is missing. Series I machines had the boom pivot behind the seat area, series II moved the pivot point forward of the seat area for safety reasons. Due to some lawsuits from operators injured by the boom removing some body parts. There is no service manual for these machines, only an expanded operators manual that contains a lot of information including repair instructions for the power train components and hydraulics. The Operators manual number is 1199, that is not a part number just a manual number. There is also a parts manual number 2726 covering 75A, 75B and R.
Thank you. Looks like I have a Series I. I didn't think too much about the safety issue beyond saying to myself "there's a good reason to keep your hands inside".
You should also be aware that there is no neutral safety switch in these machines. Generally doesn't matter as they wont move if the bucket is on the ground although a local mechanic was killed by a 175 years ago when he shorted the starter.
My Dad had a model 75. He bought it new in the 1950's several years before I came along. His had a gas Waukesha and teeth on the bucket. He dug crawl spaces and basements with it. He said a black Cadillac would show up every few days and the occupants would watch him. He'd ask if he could help them and they'd just say no, they just wanted to watch. This went on for several months. Dad was spread too thin trying to run two businesses so he got out of the excavating business so he could concentrate on his home building business. The guys in the black Caddy quickly offered him a job. He took it. Turns out they owned a big construction company and after seeing Dad's Michigan in action they bought one. It was a 75 with a Waukesha diesel. Seems the company operators were used to running tracked machines and couldn't (or more likely wouldn't) figure out how to operate a wheeled loader. The company sent him and the Michigan to projects all over the state. He did everything from clear land of trees to backfill and grade water main or sewer ditches, build and finish grade the greens for a new golf course, dig an occasional basement and of course load trucks. 25-30 years after he left that company I met some of his old co-workers. They said Dad was the best operator they'd ever seen (and these guys were operators and a foreman) and they never did figure out how he could dig with that danged Michigan wheel loader. I remember tagging along with Dad one Saturday morning to pick up his paycheck. His boss said he had a little project for him if he wanted to make a few bucks. I was maybe 3 and it was a big deal to me to get to ride along in the Michigan and even get to dump a few buckets of dirt. It's not in the budget right now but some day I'd like to get a Michigan 75.
Pops15 I got just the machine for you. I'm thinking about getting rid of ours as it's been in the shed too long. Ran when parked as the saying goes. Has the Waukesha diesel. By the way any body who could grade with one those machines was some operator. We used to have a guy that could do pretty well, way better than I ever could.
I think I may have finally located the serial # on my Michigan 75A, Series I. There is a 6 digit number cast into the underside of the pivot point where the upper main arm is fastened to the frame.
Hi guys, new to the site. I have a Michigan 75A that we used to use for dirtwork. It went years without running, but I got it started up and am in the process of converting it for snow removal. My issue is electrical. I was having battery drain, and overheating wires coming into the ignition I believe from the regulator. Also burned up my fuel pump. I am going to scrap the positive ground system. So am I to understand that I can run a GM alternator with the buit in regulator and run 1 wire to my positive post on the starter?? Is this all I need to do? Or is there multiple steps. I'm sort of a novice mechanic so any help appreciated. Thanks!
Not as easy as that. reversing polarity will affect any elecrical guages, the needle may try to move left instead of right, some of them you can rewire. The starter might be polarity specific and run backwards. You need to have it checked by an electrical shop .
I did it on our 75A years ago. I used standard Delco alternator, 55 or 60 amp I think. The gauges all work. I think I might have had to change the wires on the amp gauge. From memory the other gauges were not polarity sensitive. The starter doesn't care, it will still run the same direction. Very easy on this machine. The wires burning up may have another cause. The original positive ground system will only supply something like 20 or 30 amps, nowhere near enough for night work with lights, heater, etc. We were overloading the original system and I was replacing regulators and generators every year or so. The alternator ran for at least a decade of active use and still works fine probably 20 years later.
Just thinking about it a little more, you might want to run a new main feed wire to the ign. switch anyway of bigger gauge. As I remember the main feed is on the starter terminal. The other gauges might need polarity reversal I just don't remember doing it. In any case they all work including fuel gauge.
Ok, where does the main feed from the old regulator go, is it to the ignition switch? I am thinking it does, but not sure. I am pretty sure this was the wire burning up. It has more to do with grounding issues than anything. I am thinking if in fact the regulator feed went to the ignition switch, I should be able to just run a new feed from the alternator to the switch? Appreciate the imput guys!
If you're running a one wire alternator all the regulator wiring is disconnected. The wire from the alternator goes to the ungrounded large terminal on the starter and there is another wire on this terminal that feed to the ignition switch. I'm assuming you still have the pedal starter so the battery lead goes to the same terminal on the starter. The only three wires on the starter terminal should be the battery (now positive used to be negative), the alternator, and the main fee to the ignition switch. The other starter terminal is grounded. If you don't have the pedal start attach your new wires to the solenoid terminal that the battery cable is attached. The original regulator wiring had a wire from the reg. batt terminal to the run side of the ignition switch to energize the generator field when the key was on. (I think that's right haven't worked on a generator in a long time)
Of course I goofed that up. If you hook it up like I said it will work but the ammeter will not. I need to look at my notes. I think the one wire needs to go from the alternator to the the wire that used to be hooked to the regulator batt terminal. Maybe somebody with a better memory will chime in.
That ammeter won't handle the higher amps from the alternator, it will just peg out. Need to replace it with a voltmeter connected to the on side of the switch and to ground. Be sure to not to hook it to the hot side of the switch or it will drain the batteries with the switch turned off.
Yea good point think it's only a 30 amp meter so the alternator wire can go right to the starter.
Thanks so much. I think I know what I need to do now. I do not have the pedal start, it has a solenoid. I hope to be back up to my cabin after Thanksgiving to hook this up. I will let you know how it goes. Might have a pic or 2 of the snowplow I modified to hook up to the hydrolics. Thanks!
Well everything worked out great. Had to do some tinkering to get the alternator to fit correctly. The biggest issue I had was finding a 2 belt pulley to put on the alternator. The generator pulley would not swap out because the balancing weight made the pulley to long to fit the shaft of the alternator. Once I had that on, I simply ran a wire from the alternator to the positive post on the battery. I also installed a new fuel pump as the old generator/regulator fried the old one, which wasn't that old. The machine fired right up in 25 deg weather (it does have a block heater for the real cold stuff). Attached my 9 foot plow and I'm ready to roll. I was unable to download any pics from my phone. Thanks!
keep this 1 out of the rain
I just found the site and registered. I have a 1959 75A which is being rebuilt. I guess I have to wait for permission to start a new topic or post pictures. I have lots of questions, right now I want to find the right paint. The place working on it wants to use Cat paint.
I ran one of the Clark Michigan 75C variants in the late 80's and I don't remember it being as yellow as CAT paint, more orange in it if I recall correctly. Man, that old machine was beast with its Detroit oil burner, had some umph but a lot of noise too.
When I painted both our Michigans years ago I used a Dupont equipment paint no. 250S which was very yellow, I just liked the color. I did buy the blue trim paint from the Michigan dealer. you got to have the Blue wheels and trim or the old ones don't look right
Used valspar cat yellow for mine worked well held up fairly well but i am a big fan of the cat yellow straight from cat it holds up well outside with not much fading!!!!Also the deere yellow paint from deere is a good paint