Michigan 75A no forward travel. Waukesha 190 gasoline 75-AG - 1CA-3560 T75A3 transmission C272-2 torque converter Moves excellent in reverse. 140psi at the top cover. Forward clutch drum heats up real quick and it wont move in forward at all. Input shaft spinning fast all the while in forward. Input shaft slows to travel speed in reverse. Reverse works perfectly all the time. Does anyone know if you can service the forward drum (clutches) without dropping the transmission? Looks real tight up in there ? Doug Benedetto, Vienna NY
Trans needs to come out. If going to do clutches and seals on Forward Pack may as well do Reverse while out, save a return trip.
If this round thing is what you are calling the forward drum and it is getting hotter than other parts of the transmission I'd say there is a problem in there for sure. How long does it take for it to get hot? To get that cover off you need at least as much space in front of it as the thing is long. That is more or less a pan that just cover the actaul clutch in side and would have to come all the way off to be able to do any real work. Like DMiller says if the seals or clutch plate in there are bad the chance everything else is perfect is about zero. Kind of the "Pay me now or Pay me later" story! Who remembers that slogan?
It's the forward clutch cover to be precise. I agree rebuilding clutch packs on the bench will be a more controlled environment However, I'm going to explore doing it in the frame, as I mentioned in the initial post reverse is working perfect and strong in every speed and so replacing those clutches is not needed at this point. I just acquired this machine with no fwd, it has 7500 hrs on the clock, the fellow I bought it from purchased it in the late 70s in this same condition with little to no forward travel and never used it much or attempted to repair it. I bought my first Michigan 75A serial 9xxx in 1980, that machine is almost identical to the 1CA3560 above and it's still running strong and used almost daily, I've got 40 years of operating these loaders under my belt. I was also fortunate early on when I bought that first loader to meet a guy named DJ Smith Marcellus, NY who called himself "The Michigan Man" And rightfully so, I dont believe there was anyone who knew more about these loaders or had more of them stacked up on shelves and out on his property then Don Smith. Don taught me alot about maintaining my 75A loader but regrettably I never had transmission trouble and hes passed on now and too late to have that conversation with him. RIP DJ
I'm guessing that D.J. Smith you knew is related to the David Smith that lives just over the hill from me and has his own small trucking company and gravel bed. Like I said the first thing I would be looking into is if there was a chance you could remove hoses and such to have clearance to slid that cover off. To be honest never worked on a 75A but did rebuilt a transmission in a 475IIIA once, a bit bigger machine, you could probably park this 75A in the bucket of that machine! And that one was done in frame. It's all a case of if you can remove the covers to gain access to the clutches. Not sure where or how the control valve for this one is located and how it is connected to the clutch packs. There might be a problem in the connection from that valve to the clutch and not the clutch itself. Do you have any access to a service manual on the transmission? Is there a tag on the transmission giving a model number? That would be a very good place to start. Well a quick Google search on Michigan 75A found a manual that includes the rebuilding of the transmission: http://www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/MICHIGAN75AOperatorsManual.pdf It says "Operators Manual" but scroll down far enough and it goes step by step on rebuilding the transmission! Some good reading to get started! Start at page 39 and have fun, even gives some trouble shooting ideas!
Thanks KS, The control valve is under the top cover and could very well be stuck or leaking. I'll check that out first that's a great suggestion. If I remove the battery tray, master cylinder, brake pedal ,floor boards and the connecting pipe that goes across the frame feeding both boom lift cylinders. I'll have free access to the forward clutches from above and while standing on the right side plenty of room to get the cover off once those items have been removed. I've got her cleaned up, took the cab off and inside my shop now...let the fun begin!
Looks good place to be working! One of the first things I would do if not already done would be to drain oil and see if there is anything on the suction strainer. Then maybe pull the cover off the top and see what the valves look like. There has to be some passages from the control valve to the clutch shafts. I'd be trying to see if you could get the clutches to actuate with air pressure. They should make noise like a thump when applied and build up back-pressure on the port you are blowing the air into. I'd try them all so as to get a feel how a good one works and sounds compare to the one that you think is not working. If while putting air in to the forward clutch you hear a lot of air escaping the next step would be to remove that cover and see if you can narrow down where it is leaking. Then take off whatever is needed to get access to that point. The pages I looked at in the online manual do not make it clear if the passages from the control valve to the shaft are tubing pressed into case or they are passages drilled in the case. Be sure to take pictures and post them here I know I'm interested in knowing what the problem is, hope it's something fixable with out too much effort or maney!
That IS a great strategy KS. I've used air plumbed with a regulator in the past to diagnose leaky intake/exhaust valves in heads and especially on 2cyl harley intakes for leaks to avoid a lean condition. But, It never crossed my mind to check the clutches this way, should work perfectly, thank you very much for reminding me of that little gem. with a 0-500psi gauge installed in the test port on the control valve cover, its at 140-145 in neutral, the spec is 150-200psi When you apply the brake the pressure drops and then rebounds right back to the initial reading properly like the manual states it should. Shift into reverse the pressure drops to 20psi that surprised me as I thought it would build pressure and be nearer the 140? And then shift in fwd it drops and stays at zero no surprise there. I'm planning to drop the fluid, pan & filter in the morning and see what it all looks like. Thanks again for your input! Much appreciated.
Trans fluid drained 18qrts was a reddish dextron type and dirty brown. Filter looks like an old original. screen in the pan very clean with the exception of 10-12 steel fragments that resemble a spring.
Took readings off my other almost identical 75A loader for comparison. That machine moves good in both directions and will fill the bucket with ease. Idling pressure at the control valve test port =120psi Shift forward it drops to 80psi Shift reverse drops to 60psi.
Those spring parts do not look good! As if you didn't know that already! A quick look at parts breakdown does not seem to show springs like that connected to the clutches themselves. So I would be looking close at the valves in the top of the transmission case or possible the converter and pump areas. All it would take is for one of those bits to get caught in the wrong area to hold a valve open or closed to block of vent pressure from getting to the clutches. As for the air pressure being used to test clutches it is a very common and good way to check clutches like this transmission. We used it on all the different transmissions, Allison, Cat, Rockford, Clark and others. Some work a bit sluggish or need a bit of oil squirted it to help the seal rings but if air even makes them work noticeably at 120 psi then you can be confident that oil at 120 psi or higher will work fine. If you manage to find and fix this transmission without major tear down I would suggest finding a large magnet, say something like they mount a CB antenna to the roof of a car and put it inside the transmission case to grab any bits you might miss while cleaning in there. Just make sure it's not going to damage the suction screen or get into the gears. Many transmissions have magnets in them for that purpose.
That's where I'm at. But you were here first! 3 out of the 4 clutch packs wont pressurize. After removing the top cover, I used shop air to load up each of the 4 clutch packs threw the ports that mate to the control valve cover. The fwd clutch pack pressure blew right threw. On the reverse clutch pack a majority of air is escaping at the clutches. 1st-3rd majority of air escaping. 2nd & 4th however I could hear the pack lock up and it will pressurize. I'm going to make a couple small steel plates that will bolt to the cover at the 2 o-rings to allow me to dead head the control valve and test it for leakage. I've got a beam slung across the boom with a hoist hung there to gently lower the transmission, it looks like it should angle out towards the front and slide out the side between the wheels once it's on the floor.
It sucks but key was heat up Fluid bypassing with clutches trying to engage but not. Good luck on rebuild, most hydraulic shops can match seals Clutch plates could lead many directions and pray no large hard parts destroyed.
These people supply SOME of the old oddball stuff I need, they also have parts manuals under OEM Manuals for Michigans. https://www.minnpar.com/
Almost have it ready to drop out. Looks like if I jack up the right front 2" , remove the parking brake cable and right front wheel the trans can be lowered onto the floor & then slide it out upright on the pan enough to where I can pick it with a rolling hoist.
Back when we did a lot of work on the old Hough loaders like the 560's and H-400's we had a place out back of the shop were we had large 3 foot square blocks lined up to back the loaders on to sort of like an above ground pit. Drive or tow as needed the sick machine on to it drop trany out the bottom and drag it out the open end. Same thing in reverse to put them back in. At least the "little 75A" trany will be a bit easier to handle that the trany in an H-400! If you have access to a sheet of say 1/4 inch steel you could lower it on to that and have an eye welded to it to help it slid out. Be very interested when you figure out where the bits came from. could even be an oil injury that was not completely cleaned up. seen things like that over the years and can cause lots of head scratching! good luck and waiting on the next group of pictures!
Needed to drop the steering linkage out of the way and unbolt & raise the hydraulic pipe that connects the 2 lift arms for the boom across the frame. And then do a mess of juggling fwd,back side to side while lowering it. The rear driveshaft yoke was tough getting over the lower boom support. Got lucky the strap rigging couldnt have been balanced any better, the trans stayed perfectly upright on the way down. Smooth steel plate to slide it on is a great idea, thanks KS, I think the front wheel might need to come off for the trans to clear coming out the side.
Getting it out is easy, slinging it back IN is not!!
You want to talk about a fun transmission to remove and install get hold of a Mack off-highway M-30 with a direct mount CLBT 5640 Allison! I think I wrote that project a while back. If anyone is interested I could search for it or write it up here!
No Thanks!! Used to have to deal with Euc Dump trucks, no transmission jacks and dragging the old gearboxes out on plywood using come alongs to get them down and back up.
I'm sure there's much worse than this one to yank out, pretty sure with the hoist setup I've got, stuffing it back up in there will be the same juggling around i had to do to drop it, only in reverse. The weight is balanced real good on the hook. Planning to scrape, clean and degrease the housing thoroughly before I open it up over the weekend.
Gee the R30, R35's we had were easy to drop the transmissions on. Well as long as the truck was running enough to raise and pin the box! They were all remote mount transmissions. Basically pull input and output drive shafts, disconnect the retarder oil lines, the shift and parking brake linkages, link to retarder handle, front and rear mounts and attach lifting bracket to top and lower down with overhead crane. Dang it almost ripped the converter temp gauge capillary line off! Remove that then your good to go!
Eucs depended on size, some were married to engine others were remote, most were buried in something else, and you had bed supports!! What were those back in the day!! We worked bed down most times as the idiots would blow a trans or clutch and then no hydraulics to raise machine anyway.
Yea direct mount like the M-30 Mack's were "fun" did them box down with chain jacks in and out. But we are getting off topic for Burnt.finger job: Just noticed this loader has a Waukesha gas engine, do you know the model number? I have a couple old Waukesha manuals. One is probably way too big F-817-G! Yea that's the displacement! The other is for the 140-145 Series those run any where from 525 cubic inches up to a 817 version but even those might be a bit big for this loader, not sure! One other thought do you know of a place to get parts for this machine? Seems I heard some good things about this outfit: https://www.minnpar.com They have many manuals to read on line as far as parts, could not see one I was sure was for your 75A but might be worth a look. https://www.minnpar.com/manuals.aspx Also have an old Motors Manual, remember those, it has a few spec's on a bunch of Waukesha engines not a lot of details but the basics like valve settings and timing.
The black sheep of the family!!
Is it just the picture or is that upper clutch pack look very dark. If so I would be interested in seeing the parts inside that drum compared to the same ones in the lower drum.
Haha..oh its black alright!! like the color of blueing on a gun barrel.
There are 10 clutch disc release springs in each pack. This matches the source of the metal found in the pickup screen. The fwd drum black from heat has a few broken springs. Most of the bronze clutches in the fwd pack are torn up with pieces of release spring embedded in them. Inner and outer piston seals are chewed up in pieces.
Well guess that answers the question why it don't move forward! Have you checked any place on parts availability? With it sitting on the floor I'm hoping you are going to pull all the other clutches before committing to order parts. Would really suck to order all the parts for that clutch and then find out one of the others was close behind it ready to fail next month. I would also be putting all the broken bits of spring together to get an idea if you found all the bits.
Right on Ken, I'll be pulling the other 3 packs apart to inspect the discs, drums and release springs and will need to replace those seals anyhow. The last group of photos you'll see the 10 release springs with the fragments out of the fwd drum, the remaining few tiny pieces are embedded in a few bronze discs, it's all there and accounted for, but I'm scouring everything everywhere, to be sure nothing's left behind that could tear a seal or wedge a valve once it's back together. All 4 packs are identical, I have a couple different original 75A parts books, those numbers for the individual clutch parts remained the same throughout and I was able to match up casting numbers and other stamped parts are matching my book so I'm confident I've got the right part numbers to order. Will likely call Minnpar this week and see what's available as well as work the phone to see what's out there. Although everything I need is right in your backyard over at Smith's and I'll likely head over there first and see if they're in a selling mood. Pull up Google satellite view and look in the pits off of stump rd & count loaders, I haven't done it recently but last time I did was over 30 not counting what's piled up inside buildings.
IF Minnpar cannot do any good is another alternate Type in tge p/n: Michigan xyz123 As a google search I have gotten lucky that way a time or two
You mean this image? A little hard to say what all those little yellow bits are but would not be surprised to find a few good parts! Not sure if there are still some old B-model Macks there but know back when the quarry I worked for had one they wanted to get rid of many found there way over there!
The loaders are all out in the pits, and the parts barn is by itself near the homestead. I dont recognize the pile you showed, that might be one of the boys places.
Pulled the other 3 clutch packs apart. Fwd as you know was toast. 2&4 all looks like new, with the seals intact. 1&3 had 3 failed release springs with minimal clutch damage & both seals intact. Reverse had several spring failures that took out all of the sintered bronze discs along with the inner drum seal. Hard to believe it was moving so well in reverse with that kind of damage. Looks like I'll need 10-12 bronze discs, 4-5 steel discs, inner and outer seals for all 4 pistons and of course 40 new release springs.
I'm cleaning and inspecting everything in the transmission system for any leftover debris. Went to blow out the external oil lines that lubricate the clutches with filtered oil from the cooler. Line to the forward and 2nd& 4th clutches no air will pass thru which means there was no oil to those clutches. Line to 1st & 3rd is open so 1&3 was getting oil But line from 1&3 to reverse clutches no air will pass thru so reverse wasn't getting oil. These hoses are not standard hydraulic hose, they have a very tiny ID I'm assuming to control the flow to the clutches. No debris will come out of the hoses when I try to clean them or rod them out, it appears they're not plugged but they've collapsed. Its definitely not what I expected to find when I checked these hoses.
Nothing special except Old, any 1/4" or close ID line will be fine on this., line size matched to fitting size is normal and swelling internally happens.
Okay on the lines, the fittings from the cover to the quill are not sealed there anyhow and will overflow and looks like any extra oil in the clutch drum can just dump out the center gear into the cover and drain into the sump like it's supposed to. Thanks, I'll replace those 4 old lines with new 1/4".
Not being familiar with the size of the lines I would just look at the best looking on of the bunch and see what the I.D. of it is and just find some generic hydraulic hose close to that size. Some of the real old hoses had very heavy sidewalls for low pressure hoses. Just off the top of my head if you have a hose shop near by that makes up hoses I'd be looking at maybe a #06 hose in what they call a medium pressure single wire hose. I can just about guarantee that would be the last time you or anyone else would need to replace one of them!
I've done it in the machine several times on ours. Not that hard. Usually if it works in reverse and not forward, it's the reverse clutch that's bad. pieces in between the plates. Been my experience anyway.
I gave it alot of thought, but when 3 out of 4 clutches failed the pressure test, I yanked it out and real happy I did. Forward, reverse & 1&3 clutch packs all have broken release springs that got loose & tore up bronze discs and torn up the inner and outer piston seals. Orings are leaking behind all 4 clutch bearing caps. I'll be able to do a much better rebuild out of the frame than I could have done leaving it in. The return lines from the cooler that lube the clutches were collapsed and not delivering oil. I'm not sure that caused the carnage but it sure didnt help. Now if I could just locate all the parts needed!!
Found the new clutch discs at General Gear & Machine, Boise Idaho. at a good price. (steeringclutch.com) Minnpar.com had the topcover gasket, O-rings, clutch hub sealing rings but only 2 of the 4 outer clutch piston seals and none of the 4 inner seals or any of the release springs. I'm still searching for: 4- inner clutch piston seals - part# 208777 2- outer clutch piston seals - 208776 40- clutch release springs - 209709 Connected the brake line off the master cyl back onto the transmission top cover while I had the cover off and bled the brakes then checked the valve in the top cover for brake fluid leaking- the valve is holding pressure perfectly with no leaks anywhere, hydrovac and all 4 wheels no leaks..Amazing! looks like the brakes with trans clutching will be working.
Try a Google Search under Michigan p/n xxxxxx and see what pops up. May end up scrounging a yard as General Gear for the springs and seals rings. I got lucky and a Hydraulics shop matched up Trans piston seal rings by dimension.
Just curious what is the width of the seals and what is the bore of the housing they go inside? Also what material are they? Steel, rubber, or some kind of plastic? Just wondering if a piston ring out of an engine would work?
Ken, the inner drum hub sealing rings actually look like small hook style metal piston rings, minnpar had those. They seal the clutch drum to the bearing cap and allow pressurized oil into to the drum to move the piston, I'll have to check the bores to see if the rings wore into the caps when I get it all apart again. The clutch piston seals inner and outer are a typical lip style hydraulic seal that seals the piston to the drum. I'm sure as a last resort I can spec them out by dimensions, I'm trying to avoid that, why reinvent the wheel if someone has them out there under the Clark part#s The clutch release springs might be the same situation if I cant locate a source by the Clark part# or find used, I'll have to spec them out. So far overall it's going great, pretty near as expected working on a 60 year old machine. I've had plenty of time to clean and prepare while beating the bushes online for parts.
On those springs not sure what might be available but if you can fill in some of the spec's for the ones you need I could check to see if Cat might have something close enough to work. I'm thinking OD, length and wire diameter would be the most critical information. Below is the chart for attributes I can put in and do a search: I think if at least close would work as long as you either use a full set in one clutch or maybe alternated new and used ones in the clutch to keep things in balance.
There are spring suppliers that can spec out the compression style springs exactly how you described. OD, ID, wire size, free length, solid height and a few more fields with regard to rate and load at height. I'm not quite there yet as far as exhausting all possible sources to find the original springs but it very well might come to that. I was checking out Lee spring earlier in case I have to go that route. https://www.leespring.com/compression-springs One clutch pack was in excellent condition with all springs intact. I'll go measure one up!
Heres what I have for spring measurements. I'm going to keep beating the bushes for new original springs as I'd prefer to have the original parts and not chance an error in spring selection that may effect the clutches engaging or disengaging. The springs sit between the clutch drum piston and the end plate, 10 are spaced evenly around the steel clutch disc external teeth there's a check ball that bleeds off the drum pressure when the control valve shuts off that clutch, the springs assure that the discs are instantly no longer locked together and help immediately bleed off the fluid in the drum. When the clutch is engaged the pressure has to overcome the 10 springs to lock up the discs. OD- .250" ID- .141" Free height 1.5" Solid height 1" Wire size. 0525"
Standard Rockford design I would seriously look to a yard and grab a spare old trans Parts for these are getting harder to come by where a spare becomes a piggy bank of savings.
Have you seen what they're asking for a whole transmission? I can buy another complete loader for that. Which brings me to my next point...I actually bought this loader for parts! It's in such good shape other then the transmission that I decided to restore it and now dont want to part out my original loader either because it's still working fine..okay that settles it...I need one more!!
Lo and Behold the addiction lurches forward Welcome to the land of yellow iron affliction!!
Not sure if this one would work it's a little bigger on the OD, that 7.69mm would be 0.302 inch compared to the 0.250 inch you quoted. Other dimensions are pretty close! Cat price shows as $5.23 each. Just might have to buy a parts machine to fix that parts machine!
Now that I see that picture many years ago I recall we had one at our quarry for a short time. Don't recall where it came from or where it went, good chance it ended up on Stump Road! One has to be smart enough to not reach out the side windows while moving the bucket arms on those. Have to wonder what the safety people would say about that thing!
The clutch discs I need showed up today! They look & fit perfect. I started on the bodywork seeing how I'm waiting for parts, there's plenty of sanding to do on it before it gets new paint. Have a nice holiday weekend everyone.
no leads on the rest of the transmission parts, Still hunting for clutch release springs and clutch piston seals. In the meantime, ive been sanding and doing bodywork, I'm almost ready to put a fresh coat of paint on.
The first 2 gallons disappeared quick. 1 more gallon will do the cab, side covers and trim it out nicely.
Still hunting for transmission parts, I cleaned out minnpar of everything they had that I needed. have sent off 100+ messages to various related heavy equip/transmission companies inquiring about the parts, most just give up quick and say not available. I did manage to find some more parts at JPC transmission service located in Aspropirgos, Greece they have the last 2 outer piston seals needed,2 inner seals, all 8 hub sealing rings and some good used clutch release springs, not sure how many at this point, they're still looking. pricing is excellent and even with the international shipping will be a good hit when it all shows up. In the meantime still cleaning, painting, wiring, etc
Making a little progress on the transmission. Have all the seals and o-rings from JPC transmission in Greece and minnpar. I'm ready to pull the trigger on clutch springs. Danny Smith in Marcellus Ny said he has them. I located 2 other sources for the springs, but it will cost considerably more. Imolaparts in Italy has the oem springs ready to ship. I spoke with Midstate spring in Syracuse. Ny they will manufacturer them, all I have to do is bring them a sample and cover the engineering and setup fees. In the meantime made all the new gaskets and I'm flushing out the case to be sure there's nothing in there that will tear up the new clutches & seals. Getting closer!
Transmission fully assembled and ready to paint, then re-install. New clutch discs,steel discs,seals,orings and gaskets. I'll know soon enough, but my gut feeling tells me this loader is going to have power to the wheels now like I've never seen before.
Almost there! ...jeez time flies when your having fun..been a few months rebuilding the transmission/ restoring the machine, mostly spent looking for transmission parts and buying paint to sling. I'm half way threw the 4th gallon. Few more things to connect up before I can fill up the transmission, bleed the brake valve, get it off the stands and back on rubber and she'll be ready to fire on all 6.
Dam! that is going to be looking better than it did when it left the factory? Are you actually going to let it touch dirt once it's done?
Thanks! All the help and advice is appreciated, It's coming out awesome! I had a choice, once I found out how scarce the transmission parts were, I could have towed it outdoors to wait for parts, my experience with doing that is I'll lose interest, out of sight -out of mind. Leaving it inside and starting the restoration work kept my pea brain focused on finding everything needed to finish it. Got the type F fluid today and after filling it up, I ran the high pressure line along with the low pressure return from the cooler into a pail and let it flush a few moments until it ran clean, about 2 gallons. Besides getting the old fluid flushed, I wanted to visually see that the low pressure running thru the cooler/filter was providing enough fluid for the clutches and it appears to be flowing nicely. I connected up to the freshly rebuilt transmission and preliminary running inside with the driveshafts off checked out good. Nice and quiet, shifts strong, nice direction/speed changes. Next I'll put the driveshafts on it and run it thru the paces outside and see how it moves under a load and if all is well get the cab back on it before the snow flies.
Have not checked the weather at your end of the lake but here west of Syr. the last I looked the ground was white! Yep still white I just ran up stairs basement office to check! Maybe only an inch but it's that white stuff!
Im in central NY, Snow doesn't bother me! And at this point you know it's likely to get much worse before it gets better!! I'm ready to start shoveling Finished assembling the driveshafts and got the cab on. Machine drives excellent now in every direction and range, smooth with full power. Cant wait for some accumulation!!
Well Syracuse weather tonight said we should be seeing 40's tomorrow and maybe 50's on Friday! So don't think you will be pushing the white stuff right away. Might have to settle for some dirt to work it!
Put about 25 hours on the clock since rebuilding the transmission. Running and working excellent. Heard back from the NYDEC, they bought this loader new in 1961, Brownsville, NY
She’s a beauty. Nice work on getting her back to operational.
Burnt.fingers, Other than missing decals and such from factory that looks as good as it probably did when it left the factory! Sounds good too. I recall one that was at the quarry probably back in the mid`70's for a short time. You don't want to even think about getting out of that with bucket in air!
I'm getting ready to letter the hood and arms this week! with this cab arrangement its impossible to get out with the arms up. initially I assumed I would be pulling this engine and swapping it with my old 75A because that one was rebuilt and runs excellent, this engine ran poorly, was full of sludge and had crankcase pressure like I've never seen before, blowing out everywhere. I pulled the valve cover and found there were a few valves adjusted so tight they couldn't close, after several adjustments they settled in and ALL of the blow-by disappeared and the engine ran much better, I made new gaskets and changed every gasket except the head, in the process discovered there was no thermostat, and installed a 180...there's the reason it was making sludge it was running too cold...rebuilt the carb, pump and fuel lines. did 3- oil & filter changes about 2-5 running hours apart with 30w detergent and worked the hell out of it between oil changes and the engine really started to come alive, the oil changes flushed it out pretty good. I have 15w40 in it now and its staying very clean with about 15 hrs on it so far. Also did a complete brake job, including the parking brake lever and cables, R&R the foundation at the wheels, new wheel seals and wheel cylinders, R&R master cylinder & hydrovac. 4 wheel power brakes are amazing, just breath on that pedal now and it shifts to neutral and stops now with no effort. I may have finally run out of things that need fixing on it. There's a start to finish photo album here with large images: https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/6MCnWo1RRseTfjHv8AkCgw.WIynGaZ5qQ74CIvNH4go-z
Wagner Cast Shoes!! Not seen those in awhile.
They were well built. Brakes on all 4 corners were solid caked on grease, from the wheel seals leaking. Sandblasted just the shoes and then the linings I alternately soaked and washed with brake cleaner several times until they came out clean. And just surfaced them on a belt sander. The brakes work really well now, and the feature to have neutral when you hit the brakes is real handy too. there's a brake line that runs from the master to a valve in the transmission control cover that shuts off pressure to the clutches when the brakes are applied, you just breath on it and you're in neutral, Will be handy for loading trucks.
Nice detail and a good boy !
Finished up the decals and lettering. Shes running excellent and worked great for piling snow.
Great looking restoration !
That's a great story and I'm starting down the same road. I bought a parts machine that wouldn't reverse and when I got it home found that it was better than the one I originally thought I was getting going. I'd used it as a twenties something kid around the farm and it was still around sitting in an old barnyard though sitting outside for twenty years. Leaving a 75A outside without a cab for 20 years means the steering box is pretty much rusty toast, so after a few attempts to clean the box up I realized that along with new tires and rims, a new bucket cylinder and brake master cylinder that I should be looking for a parts machine, which led me to finding the other one. I started out to find out why the new parts machine wouldn't reverse and after the simple explanations were exhausted, started digging deeper. The reverse shaft in the transmission was twisted off just where it passes through the clutch drum. As those who have done this know, it takes some digging to get to that shaft with removal of hydraulic pumps from the back of the converter etc. At this point what was a "lets just get it going" turned into "hey I might as well pull the engine and converter, the transmission and do a full cleanup, paint job etcetera". I would like to know what the paint spec is for an original match and because I hate to take the reverse shaft from the parts machine, a spare reverse shaft. So if anyone has a complete transmission or some parts, I'm interested. What I need is a T-75A-3 transmission or the shaft part number 220541. Somebody in Akron OH is selling a T-76-B3 which looks about right, but I can't tell what model it would have come from or if there's any hope that parts might fit. Does anyone have any thoughts on that question?