Hi all, Anyone out there got some experience with this loader? Went out to start er up yesterday and got a bit of grinding (different sound that usual). Usually it starts right up. And now no start or even ACC power with key turned. At first i suspected dead battery due to something left on, but both batteries are charged right up. Batt. disconnect is also checked, and it's on. I'm thinking starter relay. But not having any power on the batt indicator in the cab when the key is turned has me a bit confused. Any advice?
Get a multi meter, set it to V for Voltage, get some test leads (piece of flexible wire with an alligator clip on each end). Start at the starter solenoid terminals, see where the voltage is and isn't, think about where it should be and shouldn't be, do those match? work back towards the battery if indicated, try the voltages while cranking if you get power back to the cab. Most likely a bad connection on one of the battery cables, you'll find it soon enough with a multimeter.
IIRC, left rear corner of cab, should be a ground cable from cab to frame. They have a tendency to break from vibrations. This is after following Delmers advice checking voltage drops.
Thank you both. Turns out it was the first thing I put my hand on. Next time i'll just pull the side panels off before posting! She's back to running perfectly. And since i got the side panels off i took another photo, just in case anything stand out to you guys. The AC and break line are pulled out at the bottom because i noticed the break line hose from the frame to the back axle was leaking, and i had to get down in there to replace it. Any advice on bleeding the breaks. I'm pretty sure the front and rear are on different circuits, so i just have to do the back, right?
I'm having the same issue (no power to ignition) when someone replaced batteries mid season 2 winters ago. Last winter we didn't have snow so we didn't use. Battery disconnect works. I checked all grounds and cleaned them up. My question is why do all posts on starter ohm out? Shouldn't there be a positive and a negative? No positive power there. I'm assuming ( I know ) that it wasn't messed with. I put 2 fresh batteries in and no power to the fuse box all fuses ohms to ground Shouldn't there be power on one side if I check to a ground? I'm very new on working on these but I can work my way through wiring issues on regular vehicles for some reason this isn't getting me to the problem but giving me questions. Thank you in advance.
Good to remember that an ohm meter test does not tell you if a battery cable is good or bad. If you take a cable made of 100 strands and cut 99 of them, you will still have perfect continuity from one end to the other. Try it if you don't believe. You need to do voltage drop testing to find out if a cable or connection is failing under load. You obviously have that as you said you have no power to fuse panel. If your not sure how to do about 6 voltage drop tests that will tell exactly what is the problem, let me know and I can tell you where to put the meter leads to find exact cause. Here to help, or start buying parts. Simon C
I will check a connection that someone put a new end on. Do you know if the starter is supposed to have 4 red wires on the positive post and only one on the negative?
On their connection they only had half the wires on the connection. Ugh
Almost never does a starter have the negative cable on one of the coil/contactor posts
Four positives and one on negative
I Can see in your picture, a large red cable going downwards off the solenoid positive post. It has some green showing going under the red heatshrink. If the green made it to the copper cable connection, that will be a dead cable. I have seen brand new cables burn't off internally. You need to start off figuring out 1 cable at a time. Test #1 Red meter lead on positive of battery red cable and black meter lead at battery negative. If its a 24 volt start system, your meter leads will be on 2 separate batteries. Turn start switch to start and hold for 5 seconds. What is the reading #2 test- Stab the center of positive post of battery with red lead of multimeter, Stab black lead into the center of the positive post of starter solenoid. Have someone hold the key on the start position for about 5 seconds. What does meter read. #3 test- Stab center of battery positive with red and stab fuse panel at positive terminal with black lead and try to start for 5 seconds. What is the meter reading. The yellow wire on your solenoid looks like it is the solenoid crank terminal. Does it have a "S" or a "C" beside it. A jumper from the 4 red wire solenoid terminal to the nut on the yellow wire should make the engine crank if the battery cables are okay, and starter is alright. Start with these tests and let me know what happens. Simon C