I recently purchased a 1986 Mitsubishi BD2G wide-track dozer with between 2700 and 3000 hours (can't really tell because the hour counter is broken) and finally got around to trying it out today. This is the first dozer I've ever had any experience with and after driving it around all moving a bunch of dirt around, I have a few questions that are probably specific to the BD2G. First off, after I'd been running the dozer for several hours I started noticing a strange gurgling sound when I'd stop the engine to take a break. The first time I heard it, I sorta panicked because it sounded like water/coolant boiling in the radiator. I raised the hood and looked at the overflow tube, but it was pretty much dry. It didn't have any more moisture than you'd expect from condensation. Being as old as this dozer is, I'd been watching the temp gauge like a hawk all day, and it never got close to the red. (Assuming it is working properly) I checked all the fluid/coolant levels before I got started and everything was fine. There aren't any visible coolant leaks. Could this be a stuck thermostat or a partially clogged radiator? Possibly wrong coolant? Am I just being paranoid? Along with the boiling water sound, the front end of the hood over the radiator gets extremely hot. So hot you can hardly touch it. Is that normal? Since the muffler and everything is under the hood on the BD2G I'd expect it to get pretty hot, just not sur how hot it's supposed to get. Granted, I am working out in the hot Texas sun in temperatures over 100 degrees. Second thing that concerns me a bit is that the oil is BLACK. Really BLACK. And that was before I started it up this morning. The dealer we bought it from said the first thing he did to it when he got it on his lot was change the oil. Unfortunately his mechanic had a heart attack the day after we bought the dozer and we had to wait quite a while for him to find another mechanic to get it all prepped for sale, so maybe the oil change fell through the cracks. (I feel incredibly stupid for not checking the oil when it was on the lot before we bought it. I knew better, but it just slipped my mind at the time.) I know that the dealer was supposed to fix the non-functional hour counter, fuel gauge and lights, and those things all slipped through the cracks. He did replace 2 rollers and fix a hydraulic leak before it was delivered though. Third thing I noticed is that when I get to pushing a pretty heavy with it, if I cut a little too deep and get bogged down the left-right pivot cylinders will give a little bit and I'll have to straighten the blade back out when I'm done. (Not the blade rotation, but the pivot. You can tell I'm new at this. I don't know all the terms yet.) My general mechanical instinct tells me I may have a leaky seal in the valve. Is that possible or am I maybe just putting too much strain on the hydraulics? And one last thing, how tight should the tracks be? They give just the slightest bit when I stand on them to get on and off. (I weigh about 240 for reference) Other than my above questions, the dozer did great. Engine never bogged down once, even when I'd cut way too deep and have to back off. The tracks would start slipping in the sand before the engine bogged.
HI Brent Hi Brent, Those BD2G are a good little machine. The problem with under the hood sounds like a cooling issue...get any auto mechanic or a handy friend to check it out.Even in the hot sun,it should run cool enough to work properly.Is the radiator blocked? I assume it's a manual gearbox machine ,as opposed to direct Powershift,fitted with 6 way PAT blade. Maybe you have some blade pin wear or hydraulic seal wear in your blade. The problems with the fuel gauges is common to BD2G machines....Fuel & Hour meters are often found to be bad (typical electronic rubbish) & the gauge set costs hundreds to replace.I tend to add my own normal gauges ,as replacing the electro-crap will only fix the problem until it fails again ....which will happen. The lights are also a problem to fix ,as rust is often a problem.I tend to buy a set of 12V headlights from the auto shop & put 24Volt globes in them (if suitable)....or just buy 24V ,but they are expensive. Pyramid plates are made for swamp work,& these machines in Japan are used in snow & mud applications.They wear quickly on dirt work,as they are under more stress in non-soft conditions....plus they don't dig in well for excavating work. If you're going to keep the machine,try to put a small set of scarifiers on it,to rip the ground you need to dig....it will extend the life of your machine a lot,& make your job easier. Check & replace all oils ...for the sake of starting out fresh & keeping records. I can get parts & books....but Rhine Equipment in Tacoma is your nearby dealer.The Operator manual has the lube charts & maint. tips you need. Quote your Serial number to get the right books. Good luck & contact me if I can help further. Jim
Thanks for the reply. The cooling thing has me a bit baffled. It doesn't seem to be loosing any coolant, the radiator looks like it has been replaced, and there isn't really any sign of overheating, with the exception of that front 6-8 inches or so of hood area being really hot. (Hot like the top of a car that has been out in the sun all day.) And I can kind of see heat heat distortion in the air coming off the hood. I've got a request in with Rhine for Users manuals and service manuals, but haven't heard back yet. Their website lists them as being out of the manuals for the BD2G. On the gauges, do you think I can safely trust the temp gauge? It appears to work. Starts cool and works it's way to just past half scale. If I go with add-on gauges, particularly oil pressure and water temp, are there existing ports I can use or will I need to remove the stock sensors and use those ports? Is there a way to add an after-market fuel gauge? (Not that I'll really need one as little fuel as this thing uses.) On the tracks, this dozer is going to be used, probably exclusively on my parents farm that has some of the worst sand imaginable. There are areas where you have to trudge through coarse desert-like sand soft enough to sink ankle-deep when it's dry. From just the work I did today I think the pyramid tracks are all that kept me from getting stuck a few times.
Just a thought Just a thought BrentD, does the top of the engine seem abnormally hot when you stop it? We had a Cat 950E did the same thing and we could not track it down, but eventually we found that the impellar had come loose on the water pump shaft and of course it wasn't circulating the water. We were told later on that this had been a problem on that particular water pump. Regarding the black engine oil, it either means that the dealer did not change it or it is that in some diesel engines the oil does turn black fairly quickly. I was told once that this means the oil is doing it's job cleaning the engine. If in doubt, change the oil and filters. R'nR.
$#!@!!! That thought hadn't even crossed my mind... Yes, the top of the engine does seem hotter than I would think it should be. I guess if the water pump is not circulating, the pressure change for the water in the engine approaching boiling could provide enough circulation to keep the temp gauge out of the red, but still generate a lot of heat. With the hood up, I'd say 60-75% of the heat feels like it is coming from the radiator, but the gurgling noises sounded like they were coming from the engine block. This begs the question where is the temp sending unit on the BD2G? Since all the other fluids were changed and topped off before we bought the machine I'm thinking that the dealer probably did change the oil, but that it just got black real quick. I'll probably change the oil and filter before I use the dozer again just to be sure. Need to get the cooling problem resolved first. I've never worked on a diesel engine before, but I've rebuilt the engine in a Pontiac Aztek and I'm not sure there is much that could be more complicated than that. At least the dozer has more room to work in under the hood.
Bd2g HI Brent, You'll need to get a guy who knows about mechanics to look at the cooling system after a short run.Guessing over the net is a waste & you need to be sure you're doing the right thing .Get him to advise on the fitting of gauges for your machine...yours is an earlier G model,& shouldn't be too hard to fit aftermarket gauges to.A fuel gauge is often not necessary,but I have fitted Temp & Hour meters to one unit. I often have trouble getting a hold of the Rhine guys,which is why I find my own parts for my customers now.I sent a request for a $250 order several weeks ago....no reply.Maybe a call is the way to go.I think their advice is good too. THe track set up seems to suit your needs.I have been in some amazing places with a BD2E dozer fitted with pyramid plates.
Thanks for all the info. I'll try to get a diesel mechanic out to look at the cooling situation before I run it again for any length of time. I can diagnose and fix gas engines but don't have enough experience running diesels to know what is normal and what is not. I just knew the sound I heard did not sound like anything I would peg as normal. As for the manuals... I may be flying over to India next month (for my non-dozer-related day job) depending on what the boss decides. Maybe I can convince him to stop over in Japan for a day or two and I can pick them up there. lol. Well, it's getting close to 1AM here. I'm heading to bed. Thanks again.
One more quick question before I go. This should probably be common sense, but is the water pump on the BD2G belt driven and if so, is it by a separate belt from the fan belt?
Bd2g Some Info...
Well, thought I'd add a couple of things to this thread. Went out to the farm this afternoon and ran a couple of checks. First thing I did was check the coolant in the radiator again. It was fine, so I started the machine up with the hood open and let the motor run for a a couple of minutes, not even enough to really warm up, then shut it down. When I shut it down, I heard a couple of quick gurgles similar to the sound I heard before, but not lasting as long. Taking a serious look under the hood I answered my own question about the location of the water pump. Water pump is attached to the fan. Duh. After the first short run, I started the engine up again and let it run until the temp gauge passed the black line between after the first short green section. I'm guessing that this is where the thermostat opens because once the temp crossed that line it dropped back down a bit. While the t-stat was open there was pressure on the upper coolant hose, so I'm guessing that tells me that the thermostat is opening correctly and that the water pump is working correctly. At this point I think I am going to go ahead and order a new thermostat. They're not that much and if the original hasn't been replaced it needs it anyway. I'm also going to grab an IR thermometer the next time I'm in Harbor Freight and actually check the engine and radiator temps to see what my perception of "hot" looks like numerically. At this point I'm beginning to wonder if I'm just paranoid about buying a 22year old dozer and the gurgling/boiling water sound I heard yesterday might just have been the pressure equalizing in the system. There is one other thing I forgot to ask about last night that I remembered this afternoon. There were a couple of times yesterday when I would shift to reverse and the dozer would sit there. I'd have to shift back to 1st, move the dozer a few inches then shift back to reverse. It only did this twice that I remember during the whole 6-7 hours that I ran it yesterday. When it does move, it has plenty of power in both directions and will break traction before the tracks stop or the engine bogs. This is a powershift transmission and I checked all of the oil levels and everything looks OK. Hydraulic reservoir is way overfilled but there i s minimal change in the level and does not appear to be cross-contaminated with transmission oil. (Looks like the dealer used standard hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic reservoir instead of regular engine oil.) I'll try to get some pics to post the next time I'm out there.
With the forward-reverse issue, that could be a linkage problem. My dad's 5h would do that until we adjusted the shifter linkage. You also could have a valve sticking. There was a post earlier about changing all the oils, I think that is a good idea, just because the tranny oil and hyd. oil looks fine it could be contaminated.
Well, got my manuals from Kent Baugh Equipment in Hughes Springs, Texas. I've learned a lot about this little dozer that I would have just taken for granted. The lack of a torque converter in the transmission surprised me. I was expecting it to be more like an automatic transmission on a car. That was actually a pleasant surprise. Anyway, I think I have most of the problems I was experiencing resolved, or at least know how to resolve them. My gurgling/boiling water sound looks like it's probably a bad radiator cap letting air into the system.
need manual Where could I find a manual for the BD2G. I just pruchased one "way to much money" but has 425 hours on it and I would guess one of the best little toys I have ever had. when it was new it had a clutch problem and was replaces and now needs adjusting. Break is holding before clutch releases. I have no idea where to start to look for anything on this unit. I have pulled wrenches for years "getting to old but still can do it" I just need to know where to start and I can take it from there. If you could give me a idea where the adjustments are I could take it from there. I have read your post on where the vital fluids are and what kind I have kept a old IH 500C going for last 14 years "farm & home use" but it has seen better days and you can not find parts for it here in the states. It has a 27 GPM pump that kills pump drives that I can't buy anymore & the 17 GPM pump I need can not be purchased or the drive got it. I have a son-in-law that owns a machine shop and he hates to see me pull up because he knows I have broken something. Thanks for any help you can give & thanks for the post you have on here on the DB2G.
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums ellrod! :drinkup
Bd2g Hi Ellrod, If that is a genuine 425 Hour machine,it should serve you well. Watch for machines imported from Asia....a lot of them get a refurb before going to auction. Contact Rhine Equipment in Tacoma...they sell Operator (& other) manuals. I think they sell on eBay too.I think KTBaugh sells on eBay too. The adjustments are under the seat...but you'll need the Operator book for specs. I have a pump drive & pump from an old 500 Drott. Jim
Pump Thanks Jim I will do that as soon as I get back from playing with the new toy. The pump you have, is it a 27 GPM or 17 GPM with drive ? I have the 27 GPM and it's a drive killer. Even with the new part my sun-in-law made me I cant keep the setscrew (1/4 inch grade 8 bolt) tight. If it's the 17 GPM how much would you take for it and where do you think a fellow might find a radiator. I hate to hit you with all these questions but so far in my searches you have been the only source of parts I have found I took the BD2g apart this morning and found all kinds of little things I didn't like about the care of the unit but nothing I coulden't handle. I was wondering about the battery setup on this thing... I see 2 12V batteries in series ?? is this thing 24 V ? Thanks for all the info again ellrod AKA: Bubba
Bd2g Hi Bubba, Here's some adjustment scans for the BD2G. It is a 24V system,like a lot of Jap stuff. The BD2 are a good little machine,& are well made.The only thing I dislike are the rubbish bolts used...so I replace them with better bolts whenever I fix something.The hex heads are often a problem on older units. OEM parts are costly,& aftermarket parts are scarce. I think the 500 pump is a 17GPM.It was from an early loader.Will check it out today. There was a recent posting on the Redpower construction forum about 500 pump drives... was that your post ? Try tractorparts.com for the radiator.John wrecks a lot of machines,& is on the ball.
Thanks again for great info. I looked the clutch / break over this morning and I might have the brake bands just a little loose .. It's little easier than the old IHC to work on there but I can see some stuff that could be really mean. While you are looking around see if you can find a radiator that will fit the old 500 C 1976 model I think. When I saw the battery's I was scared it was a 24V system and on top of that the charge light is on ! never a good sign. Fellow I got it from said it had been on since he owned it. Also fuel guage didn't work but it was unhooked ? 1/2 the pins in the linkage had no cotter keys in them and I am wondering if all the work was done that way. It has rust in a few places and I will see if I can stop that but I need to find out of the charging system is really working. I had a clip-on guage back LONG TIME AGO and it is here somewhere if I can find it. Checked starter draw & charging system amprage from from 2 slots in the back. On the post for pump I dont remember posting there, dont think I have been there but it could have been. I set them up so I get notified if it get's a response. I will find the post and see if it looks like I did it. I just look for mispelled words & something that makes no sense at all THanks again for everything I will log back in tomorrow and see what you found. Bubba
Bd2g Hi Bubba, Sounds like the machine is a well used one. The fuel gauges & hour meter on the BD2G are a problem item....as usual it's the electronic crap that lets them down.Of course Mitsubishi charge a fortune for replacement parts...which are basically plastic & printed boards. I can get replacement Alternators & Starters. For the 500,I couldn't find the pump....maybe I sold it.I did find the drive shaft & will clean it up so I can get a number from it. As I'm in Australia,you'll need to find a local radiator.
?? I went braindead for a minute there. I knew where you were and still ask a stupid question about radiator I wish you could find the pump & drive, I would buy that from you. If I have to I can take the frame off the old radiator and add whatever I can find close to it and make something that will work but I was trying to get out of that much work. I readjusted the brakes & played a while today and the right side works real good but the left side is hard and I got a noise in it that sounds like break band but I can pull both brakes back and it will make the same noise with nothing moving ? I still got a problem somewhere. Thanks for all the info and if I can do anything from over here to help just let me know. Bubba
Bd2g Hi Bubba, You might have steering disc wear & will likely need to replace the discs. Some people think it's a pain to do...but after working on Massey & JD machines,I think Mitsubishi are easy to work on. I will get back to you with a Personal Message about the 500 parts. Jim
Thanks Jim I am going to order the book tonight from somewhere.. I will check outthe place you told me about but cheapest I have found them so far is apx.$90. They sure are proud of their books. I am afraid to try to order a part, If the books cost that much wonder what a real part would cost PS: I have decided that on this hillside & in the rocks these swamp track or what ever they are called is about as handy as a headlight on a hog. "4 legged kind"
Manuals Get a hold of [email protected] . He will get back to you fairly quick. He is highly knowledgable on parts for the mitsu dozers. It's alot easier for him to quote you a price once he has the part numbers. I have had nothing but exceptional service from Rhine.... If they don't have the part, it's because Japan will have to make it for you.... He has had all the parts I ever needed. The manuals may be a little on the expensive side, but it's for the same reason a divorce is expensive.....'cause it's worth it!!! :drinkup Hope this helps...
I did just that and they are some nice fellows and Dave answered every question I had. I have the book coming and thinking about more toys. I finally got the pirimid tracks in loose dirt and they are bad-to-the-bone I can take it where a goat cant walk and they work well. I pushed out a few stumps pointed up the hill ! and I have never been able to do that with normal tracks. I will have the cage finished this weekend with luck and then call a family reunion to help me put it on. I will put you a picture in your email when I finish but you can bet it won't be pretty but I hope not to be slapped clean out of the seat any more. Thank for info. Bubba
Noise ! I got the book for the BD2G II and it's loaded with info but I cant find where to check the grease on the final drive and don't know how much it takes. This thing is getting noiser every day I use it. So far I have about 15 hours on it and I can tell a big differance just since I got it. Can somebody shed a little light here. I read that you should take the drain plug out and check for water, sand, or what ever might be there but I can not find where to do that. It get's noiser every time I use it. I have replaced 4 rollers & all looks good below (I think) I have checked the gear oil in the remaining rollers and it leaks out when plug is removed so I guess it has some in it. I did find a tool (that I dont have) to put gear lube in the front idlers and would like to know where I might find it & the pump that you use with it If it is needed for normal maintenance. Fellows Thanks for the education on BD2G. Without advice from Jim I would be sitting here scratching my head :Banghead
Bubba You don't need that pump and stuff for the idlers, just use 90wt gear oil and remove th plug from the idler. Use any small type hose that will fit the oil bottle and hold it (push) it hard against the opening and squeeze the bottle. It is pretty easy when you get the hang of it. There is NO grease in the finals... it also uses 90 wt gear oil. Remove the big plug at the top of the final case with a 3/4 in breaker bar...remove the lower plug and when oil comes out the lower one that's it. I use lucas oil stabilizer in ALL of the oils in my BD2G and never had any wear signs or problems. It will also quieten it down if you haven't worn them out by running them dry. Ask Jay at Rhine equip or call Kent at Hughs Equip here in Tx.. 903-639-2765. The drain plugs are small plugs underneath the Hydraulic tank just below the clutch section. All those do is check for water etc. in the clutch housing, nothing to do with the finals. Hope this helps, Fred reddog848
reddog thanks to you, Jim & Dave St. Range rhineequipment.com I have had an education here on the forums on the BD2G II. I know some of the questions I have ask here on the forums had look real dumb to a veteran but I didn't know. Jim just told me today what it took to get the plugs out of the housing and when I looked at it I could see & boy did I feel dumb :Banghead After bending my 5 year old never been used 3/4 inch drive Harbour Freight power handle I got the top plug out and all looked real good. Really looked new ? I did notice when I got the plug ready to come out I could hear air come out of it ? does these things have any vents I should know about or in that natural. Unit was cool, I moved it apx 300 feet to where I checked it. anyway I would like to thank all you fellows for all the help especially Jim:notworthy I know he hates to open his mail up for fear of a stupid question from me and he is to nice of a fellow not to reply & Dave at Rhieequipment is a walking parts book with a really good attitude, if not he would have put a hit out on me by now. Anyway Thanks to all for the education Bubba AKA:ellrod
Hey Bubba, Glad it looks better for you. I'm not really sure about the air vent on the finals, my book doesn't seem to show any and I never heard air from mine but thats not to say you should have it or not. I hope you try the Lucas oil stuff, really saves those gears and your engine. Anyway back to dozin for fun!!
I have been a Lucas fan for a long time I guess the next thing I will do is throw away the SWAMP PADS :bash I had it in a bind just a while ago and the noise it made was REAL BAD and it all came from the tracks. All looks good, I just checked the rollers again to make sure and all was well ? I was lodged on a hillside on a LARGE rock & against a little tree and I was worried I was going to leave a track there I got it back to the garage now and with any luck I might start on the brush cage tomorrow. Monday I start calling to see who has pads and where they are at. Dave at rhineequipment had a good price & in stock but shipping will kill you from NY to Tennessee but if I cant find something local I can drive to pick up I will be calling Dave again. Thanks again Have a good weekend Bubba
track noise :Banghead,Bubba, if the noise is from the tracks, stand about 10ft back from the side of dozer and look closley at the rails, you will most likely see one or more links at an elevated position. Reason is that sometimes one or more of the links are in a bind or stuck. Mine does that quite often and I use a 16lb and some spray lube to get it to release. sometimes it take heat to do it. I asked Kent about it and he said it is common with dozers that have sat for a while and it will usualy free up the more you use it. Mine takes spells and will be free for a while and then do it again. Most times it scares the crap out of you when it makes a load bang and sudden popping sound, you tend to think "I broke it" but no, it's OK, it just released the links back to normal. Call Kent in Hughs Spring, Tx and I bet he can get you pads a lot cheaper and closer to you. Most of the suppliers ship from their location straight to you and not the dealer. His # again is 903-639-2765. Hope some of this helps. Fred reddog848:bash:bash
More good info Thanks Fred, I will add this number to my list of parts people. I will give him a call tomorrow. The noise I heard was bad ! and right after I was slapped in the back of the head by a sapling and thought I was shot I look like I have been in a ax fight and didn't bring the ax. I took the cage on the old IH 500c fro granted and knew it protected me from many near killings but I didn't realize how many times it saved me from brush & junk you never see. ALSO I have a button on the right side of the BD2G II under rubber cover by the blade and I have no idea what it is I have had no luck finding a owners manual for this thing so I will just keep asking stupid questions till I get it all figured out i guess I love the little dozer the only problem I see is it has about a foot or more blade and 1900 lbs lighter than the 500C. Little harder to get around in a tight place in the mountians. Thanks again for guidance on this thing, without you'all and this forum I would be walking around scratching my head wondering what I was going to break next. Time to go see what my dog broke last night.. I was working on the dozer last night and locked my Airdale (60 lb dog) up when I left. Wife let her out this morning and I have been afraid to look but it's time to check for damage. Have a good day * thanks again Bubba
rubber covered button Bubba that is the horn button. The only stupid question is the one not asked!!! We've all been there,we just need to help each other as best we can. I got my books from Jay at Rhine equip. he had to order them from Mitsubishi and they sent them direct to me. If I did it over I would just get the service book, the operator manual is mostly duplicate and not near as comprehensive.
HA HA HA HA HA A HORN ?? Does yours work and where is it located. I would have never guess a horn. As soon as I get a chance I am going to add a manual oil & amp guage. The light stays on but I think it is charging, I have operated it for 3 or 4 hours with the lights on & most people have told me that is common for them and I never liked a oil light. I have not had the dash apart or even looked to see what it takes to get it apart but when I get all the other little bugs out I will get around to it. AFTER I build the cage. I was looking at the track adjustment again and is it just me or does that look a little tight :beatsme I thought they should have more slack that what the book says. Thanks again Fred Bubba
The horn is under the hood next to the fiewall.Mine works, and all the guages work, it only had 1200 hours when I got it. You can use a volt meter at the batteries to see if it IS charging...you should see about 26 to 28 volts when running..it is a 24 volt system. The tracks shouls have a min of 1 1/2 in of slack at the top and bet to run a little more at 2 in of drop. I like the 2in drop to save on rail wear and turning ability. To put slack in them just loosen the grease zerk until some air and grease starts to come ou.. you may have to move the dozer some but be sure to re-check them and if you have to.....put some more grease in till you get the right amount of slack. Bet that stops your noise. Good luck, Fred
After jim told me where the grease fittings were I had the rest under controll. On this hillside I keep them a little tight cause I get into some pretty bad places once in a while but if I was reading the book right they want them tighter than I do. The measurement you gave is that the dip from the top roller to front idler ? if so thats about what I have now. Thanks again for all the info I need to go to work :Banghead as bad as I hate to. Have a good day. Bubba
I look at the sag at any place before OR after the top carrier roller, it just depends whether you have tension from forward or reverse movement. Even on the hillsides,I would run them a little slack, it puts too much bind on the links if you don't. If your sprocket and rollers are good, you won't ever slip a track. If not.....you know what happens...no, no.. Fred
new pads Well I got the pads from Dave & Bolts & rollers from HeavyQuip here in knoxville & after a fire, some lost skin & and many words that I can't repeate I now have a BD2G II that looks somewhat like a dozer. Now you could slip up on a Indian before he knew you was there it's so quiet. All I need to do is cure the steering clutches and I should get some service out of this thing. The clutches will get me by for a while I hope but the cage is the next thing to get built. I love this little unit but by the time I get it right I will have 18K in a 12K machine but look at the education I have got from it ONLY thing I dred is trying to remove a blot ! every thing you try to turn breaks off. Do you know of anything that might help that. I twisted one of the bolts off the arm that holds the blade to the frame cause it looked loose ointhead I looked at the other side and they look the same way but I don't dare put a wrench on them. Did the same on roller bolts, but with time & care you can use a torch and clear the bolt & leave the track frame. Don't think that will work that good for the blade arm ( or whatever it's called). Anyway thanks for the education and I will post a pix. of a true Hillbilly BD2G II w/ homade brush cage as soon as I get it finished. Bubba
Anyone know where I can get some steel track shoes for my BD2G?
[email protected] Just ordered a pump part month or so ago. They were getting out of the Mitsi parts business so you might want to hurry that part up. Anything he don't have he can get but it's a long way to China dave at rhineequipment is one of the more knowledge people I have dealed with and a killer sense of humor :-0 HeavyQuip can beat the price on bolts and if you have one close you don't pay shipping. Look up HeavyQuip.com and see where the nearest one is to you.
thanks ellrod. I'll check them out and let you know how it goes.
BD2G Tranny oil filter? Can anybody tell me the filter number of the powershift filter. The small spin-on filter under the floorboard under your right foot...I think. I think I have a 1988 model. Thanks, Tom W.
Hi everyone. I'm in Canada and I would like to know if someone know someone who could sell us part for BD2G? I found nothing on my side. Maybe one of you have some info for me. I'm ready to pay and work with USPS not UPS. If someone would like to help that could be really cool. Thanks everyone.
I got a manuel for the bd2f mizz. dozer and crawler. anyone needing it and i will help get you one contact me at [email protected] please put att. manual or i will deleate it for spam
Hello all, Don't want to hijack this thread, but it looks like just the folks I need to talk to. Mitsu dozer experts. I have a problem with my BD2H. There is a Sqealing coming from around the steering clutches. Mostly when I am in reverse, but also in forward. At times, if I let it continue The dozer will just bog down and stall out. I can kick it up in nuetral for a min. And continue running no prob. sometimes it won't do it at all, and sometimes it will drive me mad. The steering clutches pull fine. I can bury the blade and both tracks will spin until they break traction. I have the parts, service and owners manual, but no reference to any problem like this. could it be the steering clutches? or maybe the brake band binding and causing it to stall out? Sorry to be so long winded, but I wanted a second opinion before I tore into it. Any help is greatly needed and appreciated!!!
Pull the caps off and check the break bands. If you have any doubt just back them up 1 turn and see if that makes it better or worse. don't remember the proper settings, I think tight and back off 3.5 turns ? look in the book. I cant think of why they would be binding but I have had no need to go past the adjustment's so far but I will need to replace steering clutches soon. RIght side first. It pulls good but makes a hell-of-a noise when released and breaks tightens on right side. Other than that I can't picture what might be causing it to lock down. Will it stall the engine ? Do you have to pull something to hear this noise or will it just do it in a straight line ??
Thanks for the quick reply ellrod. I will give it a try tommorow. I hope it is something simple like that and not a major problem. I bought the dozer this winter for a really good price. I hope there was not a reason for such a good deal!!
Oh I forgot to answer your question ellrod. it will do at at different times sometimes under load and sometimes just moving really strange.
just moving "not using anything" straight line ??
Squeaking brake Hello, if the brakes are locking down, you have the brake bands too tight. You need to adjust the brake bands until you have 7-8 inches of travel on your steering levers. Thanks, kent baugh www.ktbaugh.com
I was wondering if he was using the steering levers when it made the noise. If so it's steering clutches if the brakes are not to tight. I have one steering clucth that makes a really bad noise once in a while and I have been putting off replacing it but I can see it happening this summer :-( Best I can remember the brake bands go from tight to backed off 3 and 1/2 turns and that will get you close. If somebody has been adjusting on all points of the linkage he will have to start from scratch to get the right distance the book calls for. I think everything on mine had been turned before I got it. I guess they were trying to get rid of the noise the steering clutches made.
Sounds like you need to lift the seat up and look at your brake levers. Make sure it is not stuck in the brake applied position or close. Take a big wrench and move it back and forth to see how she moves. Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks for all the input. Right now the squealing is on the back-burner. I threw a track yesterday evening and i have rubber tracks. The tensioner will not release. I have been woking on it all day. no luck. I am going to go throughthe whole adjustment procedure, by the book. But right now I have to get this tensioner to release. But to answer your question it will make the noise not moving anything just straight line. and if I let it keep going eventually the dozer will bog down and die. thanks everyone.
Well Darin, you were absolutly right. tyhe brakes were stuck in the brake applied position. I changed out the springs for stronger ones. I lubed up the linkage after I adjusted everything (which was badly out of adjustment)mmNow it works like a champ. I am really getting an education on theses little dozers. I ran it all day yesterday and no bogging down at all. Thanks for all the help with my problems ellrod and darin.
oh yeah forgot to thank KTBAUGH for his help too
well just wanted to say that I am very happy with the performance of my BD2J. After all the tinkering, I think the dozer is performing great. I would like to say that the rubber tracks can be a pain( after the experience of throwing as track) The tracks are brand new. i thought that the tensioner was not releasing enough to get it back on, but it was jus new and too tight. I had to use my tractor to pull it back in the idler. The manuals I got from Rhine were a big help. Very expensive though. I hope someone puts it in a pdf file and sells it. It would save alot of people some cash. I will be glad to help anyone out that has any questions on these dozers. Just shoot me an email. I have the operators, parts, and service manual.
Good deal. Glad to hear you got her going. You will have fun with the dozer I'm sure.
Hello all! I joined here to get some help for my Father. He has a BD2G dozer with power shift that has been sitting up for a year unused. He lives in Missouri and I live in SC. He is not computer literate so I'm the go between. I have already helped him with information from here already. Anyway, he says after a few minutes or a couple hours use, depending on how hard its used, it will just stop moving. After a short sit, 20 minutes or so, it will run for a while longer and repeat. We both think there is a blockage in the transmission filter. He has found a cartridge filter attached to the transmission and wants to know if this is the only filter for the transmission or if there is one in the bottom like a car. I found out in here what oils to use yesterday and he then topped it off today to capacity. He said it did the same thing. I have found where to order the manuals for this dozer for him and he plans to do so in the next week or so. In the mean time, he wanted to find out where the filter was so he could change it out. If anyone has the location for an online version of the manuals or can lend any help there we would appreciate it. Thanks in advance for any help with this.
There is not one like a car filter on the bottom but under the driveshaft by the pump there is a suction strainer mounted on the back side. I would change the spin on filter and clean the strainer along with new oil to see if that fixes the problem. Keep the forum posted on what happens. Darin
Update. Thanks to information from here we found the problem. The spin on filter has been changed since the tractor was purchased. It will be replaced again, but the main fault was the strainer in the lower part of the transmission. It is located on the rear of the transmission below the spin on filter next to the pump. The line from the pump goes into it. Disconnect the line, remove two bolts and pull it out. This strainer is constructed of metal mesh and has several magnets inside it. After my father pulled it out yesterday he said it looks like the previous owner may not have known to clean it. He said it was about 90% stopped up. He has yet to put it all back together yet. He had to travel to town to get fresh oil and a filter. This fits the symptoms. It would run until all the oil was pumped up into the transmission and the loss of pressure due to the clogged strainer would cause the dozer to stop moving. We will know 100% when its all back together and tested. He said that would be this week. My Father asked that I thank all of you for him, so I would like thank all of you who responded with PM's and E-mails and posting here. I'll keep you all posted as to any further problems or solutions.
This was probably the cause. Thanks for the heads up!
Just got off the phone with my dad. He got it back together. He and his friend gave it the old test drive and were both shocked! He said when you make a hard turn either direction it will spin the other track! He said it will thump you in the seat of the pants now. It has plenty of power, much more than before. Steering is more precise and solid. He is very happy. His parts store there stocks all the filters for these tractors as there are a bunch of them in that area. He lives in Myrtle MO. Its near the Arkansas line. Thanks again for all the help.
After more talk with my Dad, he said that the first sign of the strainer or filter getting clogged is that the steering will get less precises and will require more effort. When the filters are fresh and clean the steering is strong and easy to work. They said the power of the tractor was increased a lot. It would push a great deal more dirt and push down much larger trees than before. He said to pass along that if your tractor seems weak or is getting harder to steer, the strainer is getting clogged. He also said that the belly pan is a royal pain to get back on if it has gotten tweaked. He said again to thank all of you for your assistance. Everyone in his circle of friends has came around and tried out the dozer since the oil change and have all been very surprised. People want to rent it now that has 'grown up' LoL. Thanks to all of you.
Glad to hear it is doing fine. They are good tough little machines. We used to live in the Farmington Arkansas area, almost the other side of the state. We really liked living there.
Hy, can anyone help me with a copy of a manufacturer's declaration of conformity as well as of a technical maintenance manual for this Mitsubishi bd2g type. Thank you
Contact Kev or Louise at www.cqdozer.com.au as they will have all your answers, manuals and parts redilly available. They send stuff overseas all the time.
Jake, can you get me a number for the supplier your dad uses. I have to get mine from the only mitsu supplier I know of. They are in washington. And they are not cheap at all, but they have what I need. Hoping I could save a few bucks on my filters. Thanks for the help
I also just got a BD2G and I might have to look in Tacoma for a manual unless someone know if there is a place to get one close to Lynnwood Wa. I was told there is a small fuel filter under the left floor board. I herd they clog a lot and it acts like it is time now. Dose anyone know the Part numbers for both fuel filters. The one in the engine compartment next to the primer pump is in Japanese??? I guess the other one is in that housing under the left floor pan with the wires going to it. It doesn't look big enough to be a fuel pump. Is it a fuel heater maybe??? I know there is a filter in it because there was a old one next to it. Any help would be gerat. Phil
Hello Phil, I don't think any one is closer to you for the manuals than Rhine in Tacoma. The small filter I buy from Rhine myself and do keep a couple on the shelf here. That is a fuel pump under the left floor board where the little filter is. You shoudl actually hear it pumping when you turn the key on OR it may be so dirty that it can pump so you may have to clean it. The fuel filter by the primer pump is a Napa 3394 or you can just get that from Rhine too. Let us know how you make out. Darin
Shell / Rotella heavy duty tractor fluid I am trying to find and use commonly available fluids for my BD2G and CASE 580-L. Has anyone used the Shell/Rotella Heavy Duty Universal tractor fluid available at Wallmart? If this will substitute where the 10w oil is called for in the manual that would be great. Thanks in advance for the thoughts and help!!
The BD2 machines are great looking little dozers and do an excellent job in some applications. I briefly owned one, but it was not heavy enough or powerful enough to do the work I planned for it. When I discovered that it would not push over a six inch tree, it was time to look for something bigger. One thing I noticed about my BD2 was that the cooling system appeared to have only straight water in it. In our climate we need antifreeze. The cooling system had a lot of rust in it, likely from running straight water.
Parts numbers parts book Hi, I was reading your post I just bought a BD2G in really nice shape. One cylinder lift was leaking cost 300 for a shop to repair it. Seals for my Case 580 are 20 bucks per cylinder. Any ideas on where to get seals , parts book ( have service book) parts numbers? Thanks Richie
Rhine Equipt is where I got all my manuals. They can get all the parts for you also. I need some advice on my dozer. I changed the steering clutches, drum and brake bands last year. Dozer steers great, but I have had an intermittent problem with it. While going forward, the nine will bog down. If I leave it. It will cut ally die out. If I go into neutral, the motor will rev back up o whatever RPM I was at. It does it pushing, and even just moving the dozer. But only going forward in all 3 gears. It never does it in reverse. At first I thought it was dirty fuel filter. Changed that, nd no difference. It doesn't do it constantly. But enough to have me aggravated. I cleaned the hydraulic screen under the belly pan. Same thing. Any guidance would be appreciated.
Update: got the problem solved. It was actually 2 problems. The filter in the small electric fuel pump under the left floorboard was gunked up with trash. The majority of the problem was that my left brake band was sticking engaged. I guess with the power loss and the band stuck. It was killing the dozer. Had to use a torch and heat the linkage arm to free it up. Running like a champ now. Hope this helps anyone else that might run across the same trouble.
Guys I have tried to start a Facebook page for BD2 Series Dozers as well as don't get in here much https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mitsubishi-BD2-Series-Bulldozers/780115635363459
Hey All, Picked up a mid 90's BD2G in better than fair condition. Bushings are worn through to the pins and sprockets need changing but everything else is all there. The machine cranks right up (well it did....) and if pushed hard will overheat. Radiator has had straight water in it and has brown sludge in it so I need to flush it out. I put about half a gallon of antifreeze in but there is definitely not a lot of flow from what I can tell. When just taking it easy the machine does not get hot and I can put my hand on the top of the radiator and motor, but start pushing dirt and it warms up so I'll hold off on that. I cross referenced filters to Napa parts and was going to change the oil next time out. After pushing some brush and shutting the machine down, it did not crank up right away, it took about three long cranks before it fired. It fired and ran fine until I shut it back off. I went up today to warm it up to change the oil and it wouldn't start. I cleaned off the fuel filter and put the new Napa filter on. I pulled the side cover to use the fuel plunger to fill the new filter with fuel and it worked, but leaked diesel fuel. It also looked like the plunger housing might be leaking fuel a little. After priming the new filter I tried to start the dozer and it would not fire. Because the primer filled the fuel filter I am guessing the tank filter is ok? I loosened one of the injector lines to check for fuel and also check the 24v solenoid on the pump (fuel shut off? What ever it is it does not shut the machine down when de activated). I loosened one the front injector line and cranked the machine over and only got a minor amount of fuel from the line. I'll crack the lines at the injector pump and see if anything comes out of it tomorrow. maybe it got some air in it when I changed the filter or is sucking air from the worn plunger. I am guessing the pump is gear driven, correct? Any other suggestions? Thanks, H
Don't know if anyone is on this post but I found the starting problem. The fuel shut off solenoid started working again! The guy I got it from always put it in 3rd gear and stalled it out. I started hearing a "click" one day and it was the solenoid. The reason it started after the "long crank" is that it times out by itself. Now when I put the key in H mode for 30 seconds the solenoid with come on, release, and with a turn of the key it cranks right up. Got oil and fuel filters changed and not get a bit of smoke from the exhaust. Changed tans fluid and have been running the machine. The hydraulics work but I can hear fluid past the relief a lot and the blades moves slow. Other times the blade lifts fine. I've greased all the fittings with no change. I don't know why I didn't get hyd fluid and change that out. Ran the machine again since the first part of this post and the blade dug in and I couldn't lift it out of the dirt. Now I don't get any movement from the blade at all. I hope its not a pump issue but will start looking. Got 5gal of 10wt oil to change out the hyd and start looking at the movement issue I hope.
Weather warmed up a bit and went after the hydraulic fluid change. Started the machine and I could tell the blade wanted to lift so I gave it more throttle and the blade slowly lifted. I moved the blade to get the most fluid out of the cylinders and found that a 3/4 drive breaker bar would fit the drain plug on the hyd tank. Drained about the old fluid out, cracked the lines and drained them, and did a re-fill. Blade still moves slow and still had some of the residual fluid in there. I'll run this fluid for a bit and change it and the filter out again. Looking over the hydraulics the blade lift cylinder on the left side was bent over restricting flow. Must have caught a log or large branch on it. Will get it off and measured for replacement and hopefully that is the cause of my slow blade. Moved some dirt the other day getting spot for the new house leveled out. Sure was glad for all the rain to soften this clay up! Greased everything up and noticed the bottom blade mount is busted up pretty good and the right side blade arm bolts are "loose". I could see the washers weren't tight before and have tried to tighten these bolts but they are not moving. I haven't put heat on it yet. Now either the bolts have backed out some more or stretched. Either way I need to get them taken care off. I've seen on other posts the Mitsi bolts are not the best. Sprockets are wore, pins / bushings shot, right side idlers have some play, blade mounts need rebuild, and the finals plugs are stripped and can't get them out. Other than that, machine runs great. Been tracking down parts to do an under carriage rebuild and now I have to add the blade to it.
Get a hold of me sometime.. I do have a parts machine we could rob parts off of. Best thing to do is make a list and then email me it and I'll see what I can offer you. After reading your posts here just now it sounds like a project dozer for sure. Once you get her nailed down you will love the machine.
Will do, thanks. Yes, even "well used" it does a great job.
Can anyone tell me how to determine the age of a BD2F, 1B501281? It is said it is a 2012?
1985 model according to the Japanese Equipment Guide Books I have..
Darinray Thanks for the info. That is a huge difference in stated age but it makes sense when you look at the machine.
I will sometimes see people selling things and notice that the years are a bit off BUT wow not this bad.. Good luck with you searches
new dozer new troubles ha ha ha ( help ) Mitsubishi BD2G dozer Hey new to the forum here. Like most i'm looking for some help. I bought this dozer last week. started to use it, doing what i would think of as lite work and after about an hour of messing around the blade quit working . no warning at all. no 6 way blade movement period. I believe its an 1998 and has about 950 hrs on it. Any help would be awsome, thanx
Welcome aboard.. Make sure the oil level is good in the sightglass. Keep us posted.. If you have a serial number I can tell you what year it is IF YOU wanted. Take care..
jfp2001 Thanks for the welcome Darinray. It's appreciated and good to meet you. The ID# i believe is 2B600807 and yes i would like to know what yr it was made. I was told it was a 98, with only 925 hrs on it. It's in fairly decent shape. a little rust of course and it could use some paint, but none of the cylinders are leaking. The Hyd oil was filled to the bullseye. I checked it before i tried to use it. Then after i had used it for about an hour or so, after the blade controls quit working the oil level had increased almost to the top of the glass. I went back to check again and still about the same as far as movement goes. The right and left angle controls are working, but very very slow. up and down, and left and right tilt seem to want to work but they don't at all. The dozer does move fwd and rev no problem, brakes work and release as well and the steering works. It seems like there is some sort of blockage. but i'm lost. i've found the fuel filter, eng oil filter and the little screw on filter under the center floor board ( the hyd oil filter for the tranny ???? ). I'm guessing, but is the hyd oil filter for the system built into the side for the oil tank? I could sure use some help. I'm an engine mech but never worked hydrualics or diesels. thanks Jim
1989 model according to the Japanese Equipment Guide Books.. The hydraulic oil filter is on the hyd tank behind the plate in the rear that has a bolt in the middle. Right next to the filler port. Good luck and let us know what you find. I do have a used Hydraulic pump off one of my parts machines so whatever you find I've got you covered.
lol figures i had the year wrong, odds are its got more than 900 hrs on too i would imagine. Thanks for verifying that filter for me and the yr. Would the tractor still steer if the pump was't working???
Shoot most of the dozers I sell I can never guarantee hours meters because they come here with non working meters or the meter reading it shows doing go with the condition. As long as she works is what counts. Yes it will steer fine IF pump is not working because they are 2 separate systems and have their own pumps.. The implement pump could be going but maybe make sure it has the right oil in it before changing pump. The dozer don't use hydraulic fluid but actually 10W engine oil.. Its worth a shot..
Well ok now the tornadoes have all passed. It's that time of yr again. So there is two seperate pumps huh. The one i found was on the lower right front of the engine. I have no idea where the other one is. I also didn't know it used 10 wt oil either. Do both systems use reg oil?
yes that is the implement pump and the steering clutches work off the tranny pump on the powershift models and off the clutch pump on the direct drive models... Yes both use 10w engine oil
great i'll have a look at things as soon as i can get to it. i let you know what i find or don't find lol. I've got a lot to learn about this lil dozer.
ok Here's what ive done with my BD2G since the blade quit moving in any direction. I have changed the oil in all 6 places possible, changed the fuel filter, changed the eng oil filter, changed the tranny oil filter, changed the filter in the oil tank for the blade. cleaned out the filter on the bottom of the tranny "the one with the magnets". checked for water in all the appropriate places. Blade still didn't work. I pulled the utility pump off the eng, it's not broke works as advertised the gearbox that drives it checks out ok, ive redone all the linkeges for everything front to back lol, Blade still don't work. So now i've pulled off the hyd control for the blade. pulled it apart everthing looks good, no broke O rings or seals. So i'm gonna put it back on. Is it possible that the system pressure relief valve spring ( on the control valve ) is getting old and weak? can i adjust it? I'm pullin my hair out here lol. any idea's other than just shoot the damned thing lol. thanks Jim
hello? are you still around lol
I don't always get notifications when there are new posts and it's best to email me for my immediate attention. In this case I am stumped and it just doesn't seem logical what has happen... I have a used pump that I know works... Keep in touch...
Questions? Hey Darin, I got some questions for you but open to all on this thread.
So in no particular order I am an owner of the BD2G as well and I am enjoying a small rebuild of the machine but have some questions to resolve. First off, I have spoke to Darin and for all on here he is a very knowledgeable person on these dozers on top of a nice guy. Ok, What size is the torx to remove plugs? IE hydro. tank, primaries, pump plug. I pulled the stick on the pump under floorboard and nothing on stick no I need to drain ( whats left) and refill to level. Where is the fill and the filter or screen that I read about here that the guy posting for his dad found? Anyone have a wix or napa number for the spin on filter for the pump under floor? How about wix or napa number for the hydro. tank filter or does it just get cleaned? Seems that the fluid in the tank seems milky but I havent got a chance to remove and investigate, Possible water mix? This machine sat for 2 years im told and has 1900 on meter. After changing all engine vitals and filter along with 2 new batteries the machine came to life the other day and purred like a kitten. Unreal actually but awesome. All blade options worked fine with no skipping. I have the brake issue that has been beat to death on this thread but will get that apart as soon as possible as I run a company and time is an issue for me. I will order brakes for both sides and possibly clutches. I need to resolve the hydro fluid issue and get it lifted up to test tracks. Wondering if I can remove brakes and run once off the ground to test clutches? Under the battery tray atop the hydro tank, I have a hole. Seems the tank is part of the machine and not easily replaced so I plugged for now but might have to revisit with a welder later. The sight glass is screwed, I need a new one.... Machine serial is BD2G 2B600977 93199 Anyone know the actual year? Off to work, talk to you all later. I am willing to help manswer questions as well on things I know being as I am learning quickly about this machine. JAY
Anybody Here?
Hey Jd did you e-mail Darin ( www.dmmsales .com ) he's helped a lot of folks with finding what year there rig is,he'll need the serial # for shure hope this helps ,foozzer
Any luck determining what the issue was? I have the same issue with the blade controls not working. Was using it as I normally had doing grooming of lose dirt, the blade operations stop working. Changed the hydraulic fluid and hydraulic filter with out any difference. There is no pick up screen for the hydraulic pump….. hoping someone has been able to resolve the issue and is willing to share. Thank you
Not sure on other people's fixes... BUT I'd check to be sure your relief valve is not stuck open and after cleaning out put a pressure gauge on it to see if pressure is adequate... The only other thing would be the pump itself I'd suspect... Good luck...
Is this thread still active I have a question about my mits b2d2 dozer. Im in Baton Rouge la Tanks in advance
I had the same issue with my 1990. I drained the radiator then flushed it 2 time with radiator flush drained rinsed well and topped of with coolant. No more issues
Also a new 15 psi cap helped
I am in desperate search of an alternator for my BD2G. Can anyone give me any kind of guidance?!!
If you have the old one and the ID #s are still readable I wouldn't think it would be a hard find. My 307 Cat excavator has a 4 cylinder Mitsubishi engine and that has a Bosch brand alternator if I remember correctly. I'm not near it now or I'd check.