Have had some leaks in the hydraulic tank for quite a while. Both valve lever shafts and the high pressure line from the pump were leaking so it requied splitting the tank to replace seals. Had to pull the valve body out to get one of the levers out which wasn't too much trouble. Found that the seals had cut grooves in the shafts so I priced new ones....no go...one was no longer available and the other was about $350 from cat. Now I'll either have to weld up the shafts and regrind them or cut the shafts loose from the levers and make new ones. Anyone have luck welding up a seal surface like that? Cat parts guy looked for thin sleeve but didn't come up with anything. The high pressure line that's leaking is a rigid line from the pump to the tank and I think that's most of the problem. If the tank & pump aren't aligned just right it won't let the 0-ring seal properly. I'm planning on modifying/making the end blocks for the line to use a hyd hose instead of a rigid line. Hopefully that will eliminate that problem. In the pic with the valve levers there is the "Plug" that is used to restrict the oil flow on the tilt cylinder valve (12 gpm). From what I read, when that valve is used for a ripper you replace it with a full-flow plug (35 gpm). Since the tilt speed seems a little slow I was thinking I migh try enlarging the v-groove in the plug a little to speed up the tilt action a bit. Could put in a full flow plug, but I'm guessing that would be WAY too fast. Since I had the tank off I pulled the decelerator linkage out. The bushings were worn completely through and the shaft was worn down and least 1/8" so it was very sloppy. New bushings and shaft and it's nice and tight again. I figure I'll add a couple of grease zerks so I can lube it once in a while. Is the housing on the end that has the roller brake supposed the be grease lubricated? Looked as if there was reamains of some grease and it has lip seals on both sides.
You can fix a worn shaft with Speedi Sleeves available at bearing supply dealers. Here's some info on them: http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/faq/1.html It's a lot cheaper than getting them built up and turned down, even if you can find a shop willing to do a small job.
Have you tried looking for after market seals? I am surprised Cat does not have them. Their support has always been excelent
The seals I can get.....it's the one lever that's not available, and the other is very expensive. d9gdon, I'll look into the Speedi Sleeves....much better than trusting my skill at welding a tiny groove in the shaft.
You're doing good fixing those small things, agree with d9don on the speedy sleve, should be available.
I don't know what part of iowa you are in, but I have gotten a lot of parts from machinery parts midwest, 888-286-8827, and have never found anything they couldn't come up with yet for my old 6D. I have had excellent delivery from them, one order was a wrong numbered part which was promptly replaced with the right one. speedy sleeves work for a while but they haven't had a long life on the iron I had them on.
The shaft is a easy fix, if you have a shop with a experienced Tig welder. Normally it would be turned down a little to clean the impuritys and etc from the shaft then welded back up. Depending on expected life of the machine tha speedy sleeves will work as well. You gonna feel like your on a New machine once these are all completed.
You might check under Cat classic parts.Those seals are hard to keep in just don't last long.Partly because of the heat of the hydraulic system.Speedy sleve would be my next choice.While you have them out if you go back with the same levels,build up the holes where the pins goes in the lever.Tightens up how far you have to move your dozer level. I know Cat thought the seal would last longer in the tank,but it would have been better on the outside of the tank.Cooler and easier then have to remove the tank and take them apart too replace. Think i work leave the tilt valve thing along,but your choice. As far as the declerator,there is a coupler littler rollers and springs that hold the throttle from criping off might replace them while you have that out.Might be able to just clean them up and reuse.Usually gets dirt and rust from moisture getting around the seal.Good luck
D6c10K - Nope, I don' believe any greasing is required for the roller brake, it operates dry, and uses hardened rollers that resist wear. The seals are there to keep dust and dirt out. You can repair the seal groove wear by grinding a little deeper than the wear, and then build up with silver solder and then machine back to correct original dimensions. By grinding a little out before building up, you get a decent thickness of silver solder on the shaft, which prevents the silver solder from peeling off in operation.
do you only repair d6 only or you sell some of the dozers