Started the old girl today after sitting idle for past 5-6 months and started grading my road. Looked back to check on surface and saw a near continuous oil or hydraulic run following me Parked her up and looks like oil coming out of right under about the flywheel location. My question,as I cant find my w-shop manual to check. What type of seal is the rear main engine seal ? Is this major-major drama to replace or just MAJOR. Jim bob or ia would appreciate your thoughts. Garrie.:notworthy
Pretty sure 70CI is an oil Clutch,We have sold ours ,so can't just walk out to the shed and check on things . First thing is to check to see which compartment oil is escaping from . Engine oil low ,ok rear main seal.Clutch compartment , Check the starter motor is not loose . Try and work out what oil it is ,Hydraulic oil could be Spraying from a pipe or a hose and hiting the clutch area . Best i can think of at present .
The 70ci I drove all those years ago definitely was a dry master clutch as I can remember having to adjust it fairly regularly if you were raking or pushing dirt. As I recall oil master clutches werent standard till the Fiat at7c models came out the "c" standing for oil cluch obviously. Whether you could get them as an extra or whether somebody has put a oil clutch at a later date is always a possibility as they were a pain, the dry ones, if you were doing heavy pushing.
My dozer has a dry disc-section clutch. I am hoping that it is a build up of spilt hydraulic oil which I Know leak from the steering arm hydraulics valves which need seals,both leak. and building up and running out when facing down hill towards flywheel, Ill have to do some investigating. thanks for replys,hey Jimbawb you still around ?
Hard to comment unless you can identify what oil it is. Engine oil should be easy enough to identify. It could be from the front of the gearbox. I've certainly had to replace a seal there.
Still round - stop in from time to time to see if any action happening - also have had leaks from front of gearbox / reverser box - supposed to be common for the input flange to chew the woodruff key then wobble round on the shaft making a mess of the seal & all the gear oil coming out when doing steep downhill work (that's when I noticed my oil leak & the wobbly flange/boss on the shaft. Modified ones have a splined shaft as per the later model ones like nut woods would be I presume. Smell the oil though, you should get a clue from that Jimbob
That's makig some sense. Because when I started her up even though I had the clutch lever fully back which should have let her start without,she burred up backwards as a hit the starter button and started, then stopped moving after a foot or so until I engaged the clutch lever as normal. Thanks for the replies guys. Garrie.
Hey Jeembawb, Yourve had your disassembled a bit,my thought of the hydraulic oil building up from the back of the dozer from the leaking steer cylinders and then running forward, does that sound possible the cause, ? the guy I brought it from said he used to take those two small inspection plates off the back of the dozer below fuel tank and have a small tin cup he would scoop out the spilt hydraulic, I haven had them off in 3 years of mild low hour usage.
I'm shocked Garrie. Didn't your mummy ever tell you, never start machinery in gear, regardless of clutch position?! Teasing aside, the usual reason for what you describe is rust on the clutch plates and the usual reason for not starting in gear is, apart from safety issues, the additional friction, even from a disengaged clutch, makes the starter work harder and brings an aggressive frown to the face of any cocky you might be working for!!
Leaking steering cylinders produces oil out of each side. I have occasionally left oil trails after knocking out mud plugs that have allowed an oil build-up in the steering clutch chambers. The important difference is that these trails are off centre. In most cases it's gear oil, not hydraulic oil as these dozers have a fairly primitive arrangement for stopping oil finding it's way from the crown wheel area out to each side where it gradually destroys the steering clutch plates. There are plugs for the bottom of the clutch volumes but I leave mine out so any leaks just dribble straight out, however a lump of mud can block the hole and result in a surprise oil trail. I'm a bit baffled by the concept of taking off the inspection plates to bail out the oil. Those plates are a long way up! Just how much oil was he losing and why not just take the bung out of the bottom?
The steer cyliders must leak pretty bad as I have to top up the reservoir fairly often ( Another job to be done ), as for the plugs Im back in brisvegas at work presently and will look for these plugs when home in a few weeks, thanks for the replies.
I agree nutwood - leaving the bungs out of the bottom is the way to go - and on not starting in gear. I still reckon the oil needs to get sniffed to determine the possible origins
My third one was a bit like this when I got it - the bloke I got from seemed to think it was a wet clutch system and was unsure how to adjust it - when I got it home I dropped the front gear case bung and washed it out with petrol & brakeclean - the tide was quite high! That one you have to start in gear though because the clutch is still a little oily and drags - gear changes and reverser changes are only possible at drag racer gear change speed - I need a new clutch I guess but it got a bit better with use.