My n14 fuel pump probably gave it up today. Starts and runs fine but full throttle it will only hold for a few seconds then die. I put my primer pump (factory 6.0 lift pump) on it and it had enough gusto to hold full throttle for 30 seconds to a minute which was enough for me to work the day and make me think it's the fuel pump I'm going to replace it anyway as the engine makes money but I'd like to toss on one of my other pumps till I get one in so the unit doesn't have to be down, I'm only going to finish the job and not move the rig as is. My engine is a n14 celect 330 HP and I have a n14 celect plus 435 HP and a lta 330 HP to pick from if they are the same. I'll pull numbers tomorrow. Are the pumps the same? Thanks
Are you sure it’s not a fuel supply issue? Had an N14 Celect+ once that had a plugged check valve on the fuel cooler plate under the ECM
Not 100% no. I looked at the lines when I put them on in 2022, and there is no check valve I took it out. I could unscrew the first line and put in a bucket
I would definitely check ECM cooker and check valve, and primary filter if you have one. Those pumps usually don’t go bad in pressure issue. unless you did something to burn it or kill it with contaminants. They go bad by start leaking. Primary filters, depending on type are sneaky by cracking ( possibly with water in them), and bad rubber gasket, starting to suck air at higher rpm
Maybe it's a line issue. It was very strange when I was moving it it would only do 1/4 throttle but up a hill it would pull pretty good
Crack in the pickup tube. When you go up the hill - crack gets covered with fuel, because fuel moving backwards in the tank
I think the tube is at the front, I think it's cracked too as it has a few day priming problem. I'm sick today I'm going to look at it tomorrow
As mentioned, check your suction for air intrusion.
I've been sick with a flu type and still in bed, when I get to the rig I'll put the first suction line into a bucket of diesel, that should figure it out, the fuel line is very long as the engine is above the frame and the tank is below and something like 10' back. I have a brand used aluminum tank that needs to go on the rig pretty bad, the steel tank is from 1953
I just went through something like that on Grove RT755, but it has 3208 in it. That was multiple issues with that one. What made me chase my tail was leaking schrauder valve at the top of the primary fuel filter. But she’s starts and runs like a champ now. ATF Type F can do miracles sometimes. I’m beginning strap throat second go around myself.
My old Buddy Whiz thought those fuel coolers made a pretty good filter......
It’s not as much coolers themselves, as darned check valve at the end.
I really enjoyed the thread about Truck Shop's fix for the loss of prime. My municipality had 6 of these mosheeens, bought new. Cummins dealer first said 20 seconds normal, then 30, then higher. All I know for sure was they had some pretty good starters in 'em....
You mean about short filters? N14 was always “a cranker”. 3406-e would fire in what seems 1/8 of the turn of the crankshaft. The darned “dog” 3208 will do the same, if everything is fine. The glass/plastic bowl primary filter was always a problem with my N14s. Except the one Century I’ve got which was ex Gordon truck with electric heater. But that one was pain in the rear to replace cartridge.
Not all, only some and most that are worn out.
My n14 will fire right away even with this fuel issue
None of mine had 200k on em. Lots of idle time, and damn little full load. They were serviced religiously on the factory schedule. Crank times didn't seem to change regardless of ambient temp. Mechanics in the shop did not have the stroke to alter OEM filters or schedules. Even if I had known of TS's fix, I would have had to prostrate myself before the Fleet Manager to implement it. I am just simply glad to know that my suspicions were correct.
I'm finally better and I'm working on the truck now, it seems to run better from a bucket but certainly not how it should. Anything else to check before changing the pump
I don't recall 100% does the N14 have the pulse damper on the back of the pump. I know that was a problem on the old NH,NTC, models. That little disc would crack or get warped and that was it. Are you 100% sure your S/O solenoid is not part of your problem. Should still have the manual thumb screw.
I hooked a bucket to the filter right off the pump bypassing the ECU and bingo! I think the fuel cooler is plugged
My shut off solenoid is gutted for a few years now lol. Yes I think they do have the dampener I'm getting sure it's the ECU cooler now
Select plus does, not sure about others
I remember when $40 shut down solenoid cost me $800 dollars, on weekend, in PA. Because my driver was too lazy to pull disc and plunger out. Since then all my trucks always had shut down solenoids, air governors, air dryer bypass kits, long caging sockets and bunch of different plugs for airlines in them. Besides usual pigtails, filters, head and tail lights.
I'm not sure there is a reason to run one really, I haven't seen any reasons to yet
The cooler I stole was 1 part number away from mine. My cooler has a bunch of black bits in it so I took my primer pump and reverse circulated it for awhile and kept tapping till I didn't get black bits anymore. Only ran a short bit but it's at 100% right now
Well ran it all day Thursday and Friday so the fix is good to go for now, thanks guys!