Looking for the section about the injection pump and timing/installation section. I'd even buy a service manual if someone has to sell. Thanks
Welcome to HEF Messejme. Does it still have the 336BD engine in it ? You can most likely get all the information you need here on HEF. I would encourage you to purchase the service manual. It will be an absolute must have book if you are going to keep the machine very long. Here is a link to a couple of them. ➡️ http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...l.TRS5&_nkw=Case+680H+Service+Manual&_sacat=0 The timing for your pump is 31° BTDC.
Thanks tinkerer. I have a stuck sleeve in my pump. I'll pickup a service manual. Where can I buy injection pump parts? Anyone here sell this?
We have a member here with the user name thepumpguysc. He is a professional pump rebuilder and he can take care of anything you may need. I sent my own pump to him by UPS and it looked like he sent a new pump back to me. I will send him an email and ask him to take look at this thread.
Tinkerer, thanks for the warm welcome and help. I was able to pick up a seal kit locally but I would love to have a good pump guy in my Rolodex.
Glad to help. I sent the email. I am sure thepumpguysc will check in here when he has time. He has been having a lot of problems with his back after he had surgery on it. If you plan on working on it yourself here is wealth of information about it. ---> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeRm_95ETog
Welcome to the site.. I'm going to assume the plunger is stuck in the UP position.?? Not to hard of a fix IF its just from sitting and the fuel has varnished.. BUT if its "galded" and there is metal transfer, that's a whole other ball game.. BEFORE we start.. what kit # did you get.. DGK??? and what is the 10 digit P# on the pump.?? I just want to make sure you have the correct kit to replace the oring and gasket on "that" cylinder before we get started.. No sense in pulling it apart twice..
The pump is a 9 400 230 062 PES4A95D320LS2612 I purchased kits DGK201 DGK101 DGK301 and a new hand primer. I notice the shaft seal for front bearing assy is wrong
Yes thepumpguysc two pistons had varnished and siezed. Cleaned up and no galling or metal transfer.
DID YOU TAKE IT APART ALREADY?? You can remove the delivery valve holder on top.. carefully remove the spring and delivery valve and go down thru the center of the barrel and lightly tap the plunger down.. NOW spray some penetrating oil in the bore.. let it site for 10-15 minutes and try to move the rack w/ your fingers.. back and forth.. ofcourse the side cover must be removed to move the rack.. DO NOT rotate the camshaft w/ the delivery valve holders removed!!! The barrels are centered in the housing with a small pin and a slot in the barrel.. if you rotate the cam and the lifter/tappet tries to come up, it will force the barrel from centered position.. Then when you think you have the plunger free and try to tighten the holder [30-35ft lbs] the barrel will shear the pin in the housing.. and your screwed.. ALL this can be done w/ the pump ON THE ENGINE..
I cant tell you weather or not you have the correct pump kit.. I have that program at work and I'm not there.. If you have any other questions, feel free to email me direct..
I reassembled it today. I kept the components separate and reassembled then back in there specific locations and didn't release the geared clamps. Will I need to recalibrate each for proper flow? Should I have the pump bench tested at a local shop before installing?
bench tested.. Depends on how far you went.. IF you pulled out ALL the segments/gear clamps from the rack, are you sure you got them back in correctly.?? IF you just pulled 1 or 2.. just align them back up w/ the others.. Did you put the plungers back in w/ the notch/ helix faceing out toward you.?? IF you feel confident you answered the questions correctly.. and you didn't mess w/ the hi-idle screw or max fuel screw.. and you put the camshaft in correctly.. Put her back on and fire it up.. Just remember about the LOW IDLE screw.. The top 1 in the back of the gov. is speed.. the one below it is for surge.. and its called a "buffer screw".. More than likely, when you start it up its going to "roll/surge".. speed up and down.. screw in the buffer screw, to stop the surge.. IF the speed is to hi when the surge stops.. its a fine struggle between top screw and buffer screw.. Tinkerer can tell you ALL about it.. Lol The adjustments are VERY touchy.. 1/4 turn "in" here.. 1/4 turn "out" there.. What I do is.. use the top screw 1st.. take the surge out w/ the 2nd.. and back each 1 out till I get the required RPM.. Good luck..
You have a good memory pumpguy!! For me it was 1/8th in and 1/8 out LOL ! Thank goodness I had a new tachometer installed and was able to the idle at EXACTLY 850 rpms. That I believe helped me.
I did fully disassemble the unit. I feel confident that it is together right. I can see the vertical groove through the indeed port on all 4 valves and they appear identical to each other. I loosened most of the adjustment srews but counted turns or marked positions so I should be relatively close to original settings and I am familiar with the idle/ surge adjustments. I cannot imagine what a 12, 16 or 20 cylinder pump must be like to reassemble The next pump that needs work done is going down to you in SC. Thanks for all the info, most guys are all hush hush about pumps.
Tinkerer, did you do this on a 336BT?
added pages from service manual No. I have a 301BD. Same identical engine with the exception of the cubic inch displacement and if yours is a BT you have a turbo charger. I have the OEM service manual for them. Everything in it applies to both engines. I would recommend that you get one for your 680H. I have copied the entire engine section and converted it to a .pdf file. It took a huge amount of time. But, that has enabled me to make available to the members here anything they need from it.
sorry it is a A336DB, no turbo. I spent a few hours today and got her fired up. all is working well with the injection pump, Thanks guys hopefully I can return the favor. now on to the list of other maladies to repair on this thing. Tinkerer, Do you know if there are rebuild kits for the water pumps on these?
Rebuild kits for the 301 and 336 engines are not available as far as I know. I searched extensively for one a couple of years ago and none were found. I had my old leaky pump rebuilt by a repair shop not far from me at that time. The man that owns the shop said Case used an unusual tapered bearing in that pump and all his parts vendors said the supply of them was disappearing fast. He charged me $135.00 to rebuild it. I now have a spare one. There are rebuilt pumps available on the internet for about $140.00 the last time I looked.