Hi, I'm not a pro-- so lets get that out in the open! I'm clearing 15 acres of brush/small trees, and running into stands of 1-6" saplings/small trees and bushes. It takes forever to pull out each one with my bucket and thumb-- so I'm thinking a root/brush rake might help a lot--. I know a dozer would be much faster, but I have a lot of time-- so I would prefer to do this with the excavator since I own it and I don't have a dozer. Questions: Is it bad for the planetaries on the tracks of an excavator to use a root rake a lot? Are they built strong enough for this? I am guessing that there are lots of used root rakes out there-- can you guys tell me the best places to look on the internet? - What should I expect to pay for a used one-- or a new one for that matter-- my blade is 8" 5" wide and about 18-24" high. --Should I get one with a brush guard that extends above the blade because the blade isn't very tall? Any advice on this whole subject appreciated-- Bob --
I'm sure you'll get more experienced opinions. I'll say, yes it's bad to use the planetaries and tracks in a way they weren't designed for, and they're not designed to be a tractor. You'd probably get away with it, but I don't think the risk is worth it. Stick to bucket attachments, that's what the machine does well. Look at some of the mesquite threads for ideas of what you can do with an excavator.
I would think that much tracking trying to push a root rake around will spell nothing but trouble for your finals and possibly your blade, they call it a "knockdown blade" for a reason, its intention is to knockdown loose material, not to be used as a dozer, I'm sure that many of us with a blade on an excavator have used it beyond its intended purpose though.... I would be more inclined to buy a stick mounted root rake that goes in place of your bucket that way you're only scooping roots and trees, not dirt.
Depends on the soil and terrain conditions, environmental rules etc. If there was a big budget you might slowly excavator mulch everything to slightly below ground level, if you are not allowed to burn. If the roots sprout new plants you might use a narrow as possible root rake on the excavator stick with a rake thumb to load everything for burn piles if allowed. A tilt ram on the main stick rake will follow a sloping ground contour better (if you don't have a wide angle hydraulic swivel quick hitch) Another thing to do (if the safety rules allow) is to go through with a chainsaw and chop the bigger trees off a few feet above the ground so the top of the tree is quickly moved away so the excavator can get on the roots/ high stump quickly. You will have to see which rake works best in your condtions - rake design- double or single curve, curve angle, number of teeth, tooth design. etc
Tags, Thanks, I'll start looking for a root rake attachment to use instead of the bucket on the end of the stick--much appreciated. I usually end up with very loose topsoil after ripping out all the brush, saplings and trees, so maybe I can use the blade for light grading later. Bob
Hi Plebeian, Soil is clay- so fairly heavy. I can burn year-round since I'm a farmer. No idea how to choose rake design-- any help in this area appreciated.'
Question: Can you mount most stick root rakes "backwards" so you push away from the cab when clearing these saplings? They are too long to pull toward the cab.
One of these may work: http://www.trkattachments.com/excavatorrakes
A stick mounted rake is the only way to go and so much handier on a hoe than a blade mounted rake would be. Hit up YouTube for some videos of excavators clearing brush. In little stuff you can rake in and add a little swing and lay the debris right over to the side. You don't mention if you have a thumb or not. Your hoe will have much more power pulling in than pushing out when it comes to clearing brush. John