Recently bought a 200d deere 2008 model having overheating issues, had a new head gasket installed before i bought it, had a small leak in the radiator, radiator is now new, water pump replaced and thermostat today and is still heating, will run at half way mark for about 30 minutes then climb to redline, stop idle down and will return right back to halfway but will return to redline quickly after resuming work, like 5 min, checked radiator with heat gun approximately 190 at top 164ish at bottom, don’t know where to go from here
Check fan, make sure it is turning as fast as it should, blades are in good shape, and shroud is intact so airflow is as needed.
Ive been thinking that, curious as how to check fan speed?
You can run a garden hose on the radiator when it is getting too hot. If it cools down to good operating temp, you will have your answer.
On my JD135 excavator I ended up pulling the radiator and cleaning it. There was lot's of restriction from dirt that I couldn't see until I removed it. Temp has been good ever since.
I had one doing the exact same thing,make sure the fan is not on backwards also try running it with the hood open if the foam seals are bad it will draw hot air over/around the radiator and back through it.
You check fan speed by putting reflective tape on the fan, start machine and warm the hydraulic oil to 120*-140*F, shut engine off, unplug the proportional fan solenoid, start the engine , run engine at full throttle "P" mode, measure the fan speed. Spec is 1700-1880 rpm. Since the radiator was replaced, I would double check that the insulation all the way around the cooling package is intact.
Check for combustion gasses in the radiator.
Another thing I have seen is an exhaust leak blowing on the radiator.
On my 120C it started to run right at the red line all the time. Light never came on but would have if much hotter or worked harder. Ultimately we found that a piece of foam spacer came loose over the top of the radiator. It sealed the engine cover to the radiator. We figured with this missing, air was able to bypass the radiator. After we stuck it back in place our temperature returned to normal and has stayed there. FWIW
Those temps don't tell much. It would be more informative if you can get it to 200 or 210 and see what the temps are then. Also, is it now holding coolant and just getting to the redline and cooling off when you idle it? or are you adding coolant regularly? 50/50 concentration or what? did you flush before you replaced radiator etc. ?
The engine temp was 235 when i took those temps on the radiator, it’s holding coolant, and it will just keep climbing until idled down to let it cool off
Still running straight water till I figure out if I have to drain it again
if the engine was 235 with those radiator temps, I'd go back to the engine, when you get it hot, 210 is hot enough that the thermostat should be fully open, but maybe the fan control won't be full speed? that's above my paygrade. Certainly the fan should be full speed at 235. Anyway, with the engine 210 or hotter, check the thermostat outlet going to the radiator, and the water pump inlet from the radiator. And check the block and head a couple places to see that the temps seem somewhat consistent. At those temps, a water pump could start cavitating and drop cooling performance rapidly, especially with straight water and if the cap or system is not holding pressure. That could be what was happening with the engine 235, radiator 190 and 160. I'd be very careful that the system is holding pressure if running 210 with straight water, just do that for testing purposes. Old engine temp gauges would be graduated for the pressure of the radiator cap, red line was much lower if there was a lower pressure cap used. Straight water is less viscous, and has higher heat capacity than antifreeze, so it should cool better at operating temps, but overheat more suddenly at high temps.