Machine died & won’t start back. We have pulled injection pump that was just a few months old. It had an issue which was fix under warranty. Put it back on in time. ( checked it several times) still nothing. Put new crank sensor & also replaced connection on the tractor side of injection pump. Have 10-11 volts to actuator on pump with key off. Turn key on & turn engine over shows 1.8-2 volts. Also has 2 brand new batteries. Anyone got any ideas. We’re at a loss.
Getting any smoke ?
Whats you email ? I send you the pdf books on it to help you . Like the operation and test manual .
Nothing
[email protected] Thank You!!
On the way to you .
Manuals on the way to you .Three emails sent .
I am also look at the book.
I was thinking the same thing. Have you checked the fuel is progressing through the system...tank- filter- lift pump-injection pump- injectors- return to tank?
Voltage cannot be checked at the injection pump for those DE10 injection pumps. They are "pulse width modulated" which is a varying the duty cycle (how long the voltage is applied). As mentioned by Aaron, check the fuel supply first. Might want to invest in gauges and check the fuel pressure on the low pressure circuit. Fuses F6 and F25 good? If you know someone with a heavy duty truck scan tool have them check for codes and post if any.
Yes we have. Have fuel to the injectors just won’t bust off.
I personally have not checked fuses. The mechanic that originally worked on it checked them & said all were good. What does the ECU box under the pump control. Is it anything to do with fue Supply?
Does it run on any starting aids? Starting fluid or similar product. Would rule out wiring problems.
Yes it will fire off with starting fluid. Runs till it’s gone.
You have a fuel problem then.
I’m at a loss then. We got fuel at the injectors. Got good fuel & pressure from both filters & lift pump. Blew air back through supply line out of tank. It had some sort of restriction but cleared it. Where else in the system should I look. Thanks.
Are you getting alot of flow from the injectors when you crack the lines? I know you said you maintained timing when reinstalling the pump, but im suspecting something is going on there. How did it act the first time it died... ? Who rebuilt the pump? and what was addressed when taken back out? Can you at least smell diesel from the exhaust? If the injectors are off time you should at least smell some raw fuel in the exhaust.
How did you know you had a restriction in the supply lines?
Heard it break loose & bubble back in tank. I don’t know about smell of fuel, I’ve been in the cab turning it over. I’ll have to ask. First mechanic took it off & didn’t time anything. He put it back on and wouldn’t run. He finally said it was an electrical issue sensor etc. Found another guy who to look at it and first guy never had it in time. New guy timed it but nothing. Took pump off & back to the rebuild shop. Certified fuel injection shop so I’m saying they know there stuff hopefully. Put it back on in time and still nothing. Fuel is not spraying out at high pressure but steady stream. Don’t know what would be normal for this system. I’ve got one manual printed off toolking sent me about the fuel system I’m looking at now.
Take a wif of the exhaust pipe after cranking and see if you can smell fuel. If the pump is out of time there will be alot of raw diesel being shot out of the exhaust.
Did you have the motor at tdc when you installed the pump? I belive the motor and pump both need to be set at tdc timing with the compression stroke of the motor.
Ill take a look at my 160lc tomorrow, as i have to try and diagnose a over heat issue is just developed on thurs. Hoping for a broke belt but im leaning toward thermstats.
Hi guys, I just ran across this thread.. The 1st guy that didn’t time it didn’t do u any favors.!! BECAUSE, the dimple in the fly wheel WILL come up TWICE..(special tool) The pump timing hole will come up ONCE.. So the smart money is to drop the timing tool in THE PUMP & CHECK the flywheel dimple.. If the second mechanic didn’t remove the valve cover to MAKE SURE the engine is definitely on #1, your just chasing your tail.. There is another way.. u can time the pump w the timing tool.. REMOVE THE PUMP and look for the dimple mark inside the gear where it sat originally.. before u let the dumb azz put his hands on it.. Or loosen the pump from the drive gear & with the pump timing tool installed, rotate the engine 360* and wait for the pin to drop in the dimple.. DEGREASE the shaft, gear and nut and TORQUE THE NUT..REMOVE all the timing pins & try to start the machine.. Good luck.. BTW>> if u don’t degrease the shaft, gear & nut AND TORQUE THE NUT.. THE SHAFT WILL spin in the gear, throwing the timing off..
Ok we checked timing several times. In time & still nothing. He noticed there’s 24 volts going into ECU. What should the voltage be coming out of it?
Look at post #10. Get someone with a heavy duty scan tool with a 9 pin connector (J1939 protocol) to scan and check for codes.
You can also check them manually without a scan tool, read that manual Tool_king sent you its in there how to do it. We did this on our 160 as well, the timing of injection pump was very precise. Just to run through things here. Correct if wrong, Machine dies, Mechanic guy #1 pulled off injection pump, then engine was moved from whatever this position was, New one installed, but wont fire. Will fire with starting fluid. This data points to incorrectly timed pump. But, what were the symptoms prior to the failure? Why did you start with the pump?
Had it scanned & it’s saying ECU fault. Where are my options on getting one. Dealer Only?
What was the specific code? Yes, dealer only. It will need to be programmed. You will need to take your old ECU in (there is a core) so they can plug into it to transfer information to the new ECU when they upload the newest software. Also have your machine serial number with you and the hours on your machine (in case they cannot communicate with your old ECU).
Seen a 793 Cat Haul truck come into shop years ago with no start after wheel end repair. Did lots of testing. all kept pointing to the ECU. Bolted in new one and fired up instantly. You don't always know. Simon
Put on new ECU & she fired right up. I really appreciate all the knowledge sharing from other members. Till the next time. Thanks again.
Glad the computer change out fixed your unit. Sometimes it is the last resort to change, if you have done all else correctly. Thanks for posting the solution.