Hello All, I was hoping someone could help me figure out what is wrong with my bobcat 873. This all started after bringing the machine to the dealer to fix a safety sensor. They also ended up replacing the alternator much to my dismay. The bill ended up being over $1000 and when I went to pick it up the machine would not start. i would turn the key and it would just click. The mechanic came out and jumped the machine at the starter and it started right up. They took it into the shop and he looked at a few things and ended up saying he wouldn't be able to figure it out until the next day. The next day when I called they said they couldn't figure it out, but thought it might be the main control board (one of the most expensive parts there is). At this point I was fed up. They were suppose to have the machine done 3 weeks before this and I was getting the vibe that they were not the most honest people. I told them I was done spending money there and I was coming to pick the machine up. That caught them off guard and they said I could come get it until the afternoon, which got me even more suspicious. I got the feeling they did something simple to sabotage the machine so they could sell me a $2000 control board. The machine always started perfectly before they got their hands on it. The bottom line is the machine still will not start with the key, just a click. I have been using it by jumping the solenoid at the starter and it runs perfectly once I do. I have checked all the fuses and relays. I have taken all wire harnesses apart, cleaned them, di-electric greased them and put them back together. I have taken all the grounds that I can find off, scrubbed them, greased and tightened. I then thought it might be the solenoid on the starter, so I installed a new starter. Still no luck. If anyone has any ideas as to what the solutions could be, please let me know. Sorry for the long post. I appreciate any feedback.
Any access to a meter? Need to see if the battery is holding a charge overnight or if it's dropping too low when you turn the key (or can pull it out and have a local auto parts store test it). Also need to see if it's getting proper voltage to the relay/solenoid, make sure it is charging while running, or if any connections or contacts are dirty or corroded.
Thanks for the reply. The battery is good. 12.4 volts. I don't have anything to do a load test on it, but it's highly unlikely that it is bad. It is only a couple months old and when I jump the starter it turns over very vigorously before it start.
That battery voltage is a bit low, and I would be checking around the wiring for the alternator since they messed with that and who knows what else. You could rule out the battery by boosting it (not jumping at the solenoid) and seeing if anything changes. A good inspection of the starter circuit is in order to make sure you're getting voltage to the starter solenoid and or starter relay if there is one. Don't be hasty to change parts like the starter, after all you saw them demonstrate the starter working right in front of you. Check starter wiring, ignition to starter solenoid/relay, and go from there.
When you are hooking up the jumper cables, are you hooking them to the starter and using the key to start it? ....or are you jumping across the solenoid to start?
I will put the charger on it overnight and make sure it is fully charged. I knew the starter was working, but I assumed the solenoid was shot. Solenoid was 1/3 the price of a starter so I got a starter. Vetech63- when I start it I turn the key on, it clicks back by the starter and then I jump across the solenoid to start it.
If your jumping across the solenoid then your starter and solenoid should be ok. Check the ground cable connections at both ends, and check that you are getting a good connection and 12 volts to the solenoid start tab when the key is in the start position. You could also be losing the start signal (or weaking) anywhere from the ignition switch itself or the wiring between the switch and the solenoid..
I agree with MarshallPowerGen about checking basics, Battery must be able to support proper voltage when starter engaged. Do or get a battery load test done, battery must be fully charged., for accurate test. Next step would be to do voltage drop tests on both pos and neg cables. There should be less than .5 volt of drop along the length of cable. You need voltmeter. Utube has plenty of videos on how this is done. Its not difficult. Cables can look ok, but looks are deceiving. Testing is what counts. If that checks out. Then check voltage at starter solenoid, when key is in crank position. You would need helper. Check the small terminal, next to battery cable. A test lamp would work, but a volt meter is more accurate, its has to light up when you turn key to crank. If not, then you need to go to, either starter relay or ign switch. Typical relay has a ground terminal, 12v terminal, switched 12v terminal, from key, and an output terminal, which is what goes to starter solenoid. Use test light to check for all of the above. Or if your not sure how, you can swap out with another relay, just to check. As i am not totally familiar with your machine, you may also have some safety interlocks involved, which you mentioned earlier. These are what might be connected to main board, but you have to check all other options before you call a 2000.00 part. A wiring diagram is a helpful tool.
Thanks for all the suggestions, I will check into those items in the morning.
safety lock out switch under the seat also in the seat bar or whatever it has double check those
Start at relay down and dirty jump or ( test if you have too ) lol big wires Then check for little power site then check control / signal wire Report back
when you jump the solenoid at the starter, are you jumping big terminal to big terminal? or big battery cable terminal to little start switch terminal on the solenoid? If you're jumping big to big terminal, then you're bypassing the solenoid and you need to check if you're getting power to the little terminal when you try to start it. Easiest way is to jump from the big battery terminal to the little start switch terminal on the solenoid, safer way is to hook a test lead to the small terminal and touch it to the battery while standing out of the way to see if you get a click with no crank, or it cranks or what. BEST way is to hook a test lead to the small terminal and hook it to your multimeter while you sit in the cab and try to start it to see if you get 12V while you try to start it and hear the click. If you're jumping big terminal to little terminal, then the solenoid is working, and you need to figure out why you're not getting power from the start switch. To me this is the most logical place to start, it divides your potential problems in half and gives some reason to procede with. Won't hurt anything to charge the battery overnight, but you know the starter will start it already.
Thanks All for your reply's. The battery was charged all night and I was able to get my wife out to the shop to help me test the solenoid wires. I am not getting power to them. So now I have an idea of where to start looking. The one thing I noticed this morning with my wife helping, was the click I hear when she turned the key is coming from the alternator. Not sure what to think of that. I assumed the click was from a starter relay back there someplace. Could there be a relay built into the alternator? Delmer, when I start it by jumping the starter I do it by jumping the solenoid little post to the big positive post on the starter. Now that my wife helped me out in the shop, she informed me that I am going to take her last minute Christmas shopping now. So unfortunately I am not going to get back to the shop until after lunch. Thanks again for all your suggestions.
The click Id imagine u are hearing is to left of alternator and it's the fuel rack solenoid.
I think you are right. It is right below the alternator and it clicks a touch after I turn the key. So I am guessing the next area to look is the switch itself?
I'd be looking for a wiring diagram if you don't find anything looking at the components already mentioned. A 2001 is around the transition between simpler safety switches and more computer controlled start lockouts, unless you know what goes where, I'd be chasing my tail trying to track wires and voltages.
I am assuming it’s a g series I’ll get you a picture of the schematic. Should run to the starter relay in the cab. Any codes when you hold the light button
no codes
I know this is 5 years old but did you ever figure it out. I had the same exact issue my so 873 g currently. Touch big to small and it fires right up and will if you fire it right back up. If it sits then I beg to jump with screwdriver though
Buy a copy of the electrical schematic and post it here and we will tell you how to test with a decent multimeter and test light. Simon C