I Broke the threaded portion of the rod off of a swing cylinder rod on a 310G while replacing the seals. Anyone know anywhere you can just buy a replacement rod? All I see on the internet are entire cylinders for sale. or could it be welded back on?
Take it to a machinist and see if they can drill and tap it for a bolt. Welding would be a last resort. Look up the part number with your serial number on partsjd or whatever it is, then look up that number on machinery trader parts search to find a used one, always a possibility.
A hydraulic shop can make you a new rod. Question is cost vs a new / used cylinder.
I don’t think that’s repairable. A cylinder repair shop can make a new rod.
I'm with Delmer, most if not all Case rods are drilled for a bolt, I would think having it drilled and tapped would be cheaper than having one made.
Yikes ! $1000.00 for an John Deere OEM replacement. I'm not familiar with that cylinder, but wouldn't drilling and tapping it shorten the stroke ? Or, cause the eye to bottom out when retracted ? It does work in unison with the opposite side cylinder. I had a rod made a while ago for a swing cylinder and it cost me $400.00.
Id go with a new rod . Induction hardened chrome cyl rod is easily available to most machine shops . It will be the cheapest and best fix ,unless you come across used parts somewhere. But a used rod might be ready to fail the same way if this is common on these machines.
I've had two made in hydraulic shops over the yrs. may be a little more now but I paid $280 each time.
Tinkerer, I think we are looking at the piston, not the gland. I would probably drill and tap, but check prices on all these options.
I had the bolt pull out of the stick cylinder on my Cat backhoe. Shop was going to make a new rod. I suggested drilling and tapping for the next size bolt and drilling the piston larger to fit. They said that could work and was about $300 cheaper.
I'm not looking at the gland. It just seems that shortening the rod will cause the rod eye to be pulled closer to the gland. It may / could decrease the boom swing when it is retracted.
The nature of that break, looks like it was pulled apart. I think I would investigate the root cause first. Is that a factory rod? Is there excessive slop in the hitch? Are the can anchorage points worn out? Is there a solid bushing or spherical bearing at the rod end? I don't see evidence of side loading. That doesn't mean it isn't being hyper-extended. I would want to see the breakdown of a known factory component before I start tryin to fabricobble some garbage together.
The OP said it broke while taking it part to put new seals in it.
Being an older machine metal fatigue is not uncommon. A new rod is a simple fix . Keep a copy of the shop drawing in case the other side goes.
Yeah, but failure doesn't look torqued. There's no swirling. I think he just stumbled on an ongoing failure.
If you look at the nub on top, the diameter appears to reduce towards the failure point indicating it's been flexed or stretched.
Maybe he no comprende Righty Tighty? Joe H
If that's the case, how does he walk with those things? Cuz Ima tell ya, I ain't never twisted the end off a rod, not even a little skidder rod. So. No.
Looks likke he did it, although it doesn't look twisted. As he's not been back I guess he gave up or figured something out. Joe H
If the nut was installed with red Loctite and the largest tool to remove it was used could explain why it pulled apart. Also possible it was turned the wrong way as there are no threads showing at all. Not very common a nut has no threads left when tightening. It's a clean break and appears to be a high strength steel. That's why there isn't any twisting or deflection. Similar to a grade 8 bolt or higher breaking.
Tinkerer, I'm not trying to argue, I'm just trying to understand why that would shorten the rod. Chuck it in the lathe, cut the broken nub off, bore a hole , thread it, put piston back against same shoulder, put bolt in.
If you look at the broken piece, it's broken beyond the rod end. No bueno!
I agree. That rod was stressed and he averted a disaster. It could have sheared on it's own and destroyed the barrel. I wonder if the piston was loose on the rod seeing that the nut is bottomed out on the rod. Mitch; In the photo it appears that close to an inch is already broken off. I would guess another 1/4 inch of more would need to be cut off to get into undamaged material. I firmly believe a new rod is needed. If I am wrong it won't be the first time.
The big hammer in the photo with the broken rod, is likely to have recently had a suspiciously close relationship with said broken rod. You must be very careful about leaving evidence lying around a crime site.
Any damage would be in the necked down part that goes through the piston, it's not going to pull steel out of the thick section of the rod by breaking off. I don't see how a bolt would change the dimensions? All this is a good argument for checking the other side. Hammering the boom side to side could be a cause of the stretch. The lack of threads behind the nut is strange also.
Wonder if maybe there is/was something wrong with the end of stroke cushioning? Most backhoes have something to cushion or slow down the end of swing.
I wonder if Justin will come back and update us on the repair.
This is what I was about to say, thanks for saving me the typing, Delmer.