Hi guys, New member, long time mechanic. Doing some work on a 1994(?) 3176 and wondering if anyone knows/has some specs and procedures. Replacing injector o-rings and need the torque specs for the injector hold down clamps, rocker shaft bolts. Valve clearances, injector rocker arm setting clearances and procedures. LOTS of experience with many different engines and equipment. Just never did one of these yet. Thanks in advance, Bruce
For ease of information lookup please post an engine Serial Number.
Thanks, I’m not at the shop now. I will post the serials numbere ASAP. Bruce
Numbers I have are: 9CK 08091 AR-6I-2641 275 hp @ 11800 rpm Build date 3-30-94 3176B 9CK17058 AR-122-0751 365 hp @1800 rpm Build date 12-13-94 Thanks Bruce
I think the attached is what you are looking for.
@Nige , Great info, thanks for finding this for me! I need these specs because I am swapping engines as per customers request. Customer supplied engine. The injectors, turbo and ECM are moving from his old engine to the new/used engine (purchased by customer). All the rockers from the old engine have been removed and injectors are loose but still in their holes. I've removed one injector from the replacement engine and placed the correct injector (with new o-rings) in that hole. All the rocker arms and push tubes will stay with this engine. My part in this project is strictly labor and incidental materials. A couple questions: Numbers 6 and 7 below from the "rocker arm" pdf: #6 "standard torque?? 135(Nm) 100(ft.lb.) is what I come up with from the web on bolt torque for M12 10.9, does that sound about right?? (kinda does to me, a little high but seems plausible). #7 was/is the "procedure" I really am not familiar with ("fuel injector timing dimension"). Is there another manual which explains this, or maybe someone/you could explain it to me. I really appreciate the help and advice. Bruce
Cat spec for standard torque for an M12 fastener is 100 ± 20 N·m (75 ± 15 lb ft). Those bolts are probably only 8.8 I would imagine. Attached the spec for the EUI injectors. I think the measurement you're looking for is 92.83mm but welcome to be corrected on that.
They are 10.8 I'm trying to figure out the adjustment on the injector rocker. I'd think it'd be 0.000" or perhaps something else?? I don't imagine a clearance in an injector, IDK Then also, which injector to adjust and when (timing). Thanks, Bruce
The torque is correct. For 8.8 bolts the spec is lower @ 60 lb ft. See SENR3130. Covered in SENR5561
Perhaps, I didn't read it correctly the first time through (sometimes I need to read a few times). Is there a special tool, like a Detroit uses, for setting injector height? Then I'll need to know which injector to set at what time (ie #1 inj when #6 TDC comp...). I'm also not quite understanding what they are asking/saying here: If I had a picture or diagram from a service manual, that'd help. Sorry, not trying to be difficult. I just need to understand what I'm doing before I do it. Bruce
Got it. Thanks! There's a lot of pages in this manual
Bruce the answer to one of your questions is on page 11 and 12 of the last PDF posted.
maybe both of your questions, from what I read they do nothing like a Detroit if I understood it right.
Found it! There's also the procedure for the valve adjustment, a few pages down. Going home now (back is sore from cutting up a tree yesterday). I know what I need to do tomorrow. If I get confused again, I'll come back and ask more. This forum is great! Thank you @Nige and @T-Bird Brue
Well, thanks to the help/manuals provided here, I got all the injectors swapped over and all the valves and injectors adjusted. New clutch installed. Engine is VERY close to being put in truck. Thanks again, Bruce
Here’s a quick question. I know you said you were swapping various parts, but with thee we difference in power between the two engines are there any internal parts such as camshaft or pistons that are also different.? If there are it’s probably going to run like a bag of bolts.
When Peterbilt ran the two serial numbers they compared the two engine's internals. The injectors and turbo were different. The ECM was the same number (but I imagine programing was/is different). I moved the three item from the old engine to the replacement engine. Cam, pistons, head, exhaust manifold were all the same between the two serial numbers. The replacement came from a Sterling, so there were other brackets and such that needed to be swapped too. Thanks for the question. Owner of the truck was/is glad that I am doing the job, as someone else may have just bolted it in and not checked EVERYTHING for compatibility.
At least the question was asked and answered.......... Indeed. The flash software files in the ECMs are very different. FWIW I also checked the BOM of the two engines after asking the question and it also appears to me that the internals such as pistons & camshaft are the same Part Numbers in both engines.
Thanks. You can never have too many eyes.
Well, it's been a few months since I actually put the engine in the truck (other stuff came up and they were not desperate for the truck). The problem I have now is the timing cover and housing are cracked and leaking. I did not see the crack(s) when swapping over parts. First I thought it was just the cover, but today I discovered the housing cracked too. I need to pull the cam to get the cover off. Has anyone tried removing the cam without pulling the head? I know some people have had success lifting the cam followers on some engines to remove the cam. I wired the followers up (as best I could) on the old engine to see what it takes to change the timing housing. Any help or knowledge is appreciated! Bruce
I worked on getting the cam out of the old engine before attempting it on the installed replacement one. With quite an elaborate set of “custom” made hooks I was able to raise the followers enough. First time working on one of these engines.