Hello, I bought a 2005 953C. First one I have ever owned and new to track loaders... Seems to be a good machine but have had a couple things happen. First.... after 2nd time using noticed it was overheating at WOT. When throttle is decrased temp comes down....I did find bottom of exhaust rusted out and leaking.... exhaust leak blowing out on engine. Hoping thats the only problem to the overheating? Second... will speed decreases a decent amount after a turn. If I put in park and go again speed it fine. Doesnt do it all the time but noticed it several times. (Have only ran it 4-5 hours) I want to do a full service to it as well. Does anyone have recommendations as to what to service change with a used machine purchase? Also what fluids are perferred for this machine. Thanks for the help!
Welcome to the Forums DG! Congrats on your 953C, I have one I bought new in 2004 and it's still producing. First off fix the exhaust leak, then check/wash the rad and hydraulic cooler. Remove the HD metal screen on the rear and really go get in there with a water hose. I don't recommend a pressure washer as it will damage the fins if you're not careful. Do those 2 things first and see if it helps on the temp. If it doesn't then we have several very knowledgeable members on here that can help you out. At minimum I would change: Engine oil and filter Air filter - outer and inner A/C filter if it has a cab. Both inside and outside Fuel filter and water separator Hydraulic filters Hydraulic filter in the tank Final drive oil - both I would highly recommend going back with all Cat filters and pull samples on engine oil, hydraulic oil, coolant and final drives. That's 5 oil samples. My dealer charges $25-30 a sample which is cheap insurance IMO. What color is the coolant? It should be red ELC. After getting the results of the coolant sample you might want to flush and re-fill with Cat ELC. I am a big believer in ELC. As far as fluids go be sure and use a Cat spec engine and hydraulic oil however I would highly recommend Cat ELC, it's not much more expensive than auto parts store stuff. Sometimes my Cat dealer runs specials on oils that are very close in price to what I can buy in the box stores. The speed issue could be a couple of things but I'll defer to a real wrench on here to answer.
To start with - everything wot he said above..... Sounds like the first thing you need is an Operation & Maintenance Manual, unless there is one in the pocket behind the seat and you haven't spotted it yet. Probably the best $50 you are ever likely to spend. It covers all the regular maintenance tasks, recommended fluids & refill quantities, service frequencies, basic "how-to", etc, etc. I'm sure that CM will confirm that you have to be very careful with certain fluids in the hydrostatic drive side. Use the wrong fluid and it can all go t1ts-up. Who knows, maybe with your description of the speed issue it could have the wrong fluid in the hydrostat right now.? To identify the correct O&M would require a Serial Number. I suspect it might be a BBX-prefix but please confirm. Model years don't mean much where Yellow Iron is concerned.
Nige is right on the money, pay specific attention to the hydro oil you put in to make sure it meets Cat 10W specs for your machine. Being a 2005 it's a BBX prefix, DG post a serial number and Nige can find all the info you need.
I own a 973c and a few maintenance items i did immediately were... Replace all the grease nipples, this may seem like a tedious task, but probably half of the grease zerks on the machine have never been changed and either are worn out of round or the spring is stuck and leaks the grease out when it gets pressure on it. Cheap and helps keep grease in the machine not on it. Then greased EVERYTHING, then moved and cycled the machine, then greased it again. Rebuild any leaking(not sweating) cylinders/fix any leaking hoses before you change out the hydraulic/hydrostatic oil/filters. Again cheap insurance vs cost of repairs. The 953 runs the hydraulic oil and the hydrostatic off the same reservoir, so any leaking cylinders can let contaminates in. All i use in my machine for my hydrostatic is CAT Hydro 10. That's all i'll ever use. Engine oil/filter that ones a given. Tighten any loose bolts/ guards/ lubricate and hinges/locks. Replace the wipers and make sure the washer fluid works, this can save you a ton of time and make your life a heck of a lot easier. Replace any blown speakers and make sure the radio works. Make sure the AC works if you have it, sitting on the engine and transmission in a track loader it gets pretty warm in the cab. As for your overheating issue, the exhaust could be a problem blowing hot exhaust gases into the engine compartment. as well as sucking it in the intake. Speaking of the intake, change out the air filters inner and outer. Putting a restriction on the intake may cause some overheating issues. Take off the grill by removing the 4 large bolts on the back, and then with an air compressor try to blow as much of the dirt out dry before you get it wet. The rads on these machines are more heavy duty then a car, but dont risk folding the fins and causing a leak. So don't get too close with the air. After that you can hose it down, spray on a cleaner and then hose it again. If that still doesn't work, replace the thermostat and the coolant.
The travel issue could be several different things and it may even require hooking up to the machine with ET. Usually the travel motor speed sensors will throw a code if faulty but have seen several that haven't. I have also seen the potentiometers on the foot pedals fall out of calibration or get packed full of dirt and not let them come back to neutral. As others have said get the exhaust sealed up and cooling package cleaned. If the flex pipe going from the turbo to the muffler is shot I suggest going with Cat as I have limited success with proper fitment on aftermarket. Also if your machine has AC make sure muffler and angled stack are in good shape. Have seen the exhaust blowing straight up melt the condenser fans completely into the condenser requiring a new condenser and fans. Good luck and post ser# when possible.
Wow thanks for all the feedback and info... Serial # is H2ZN05536 Im going to tally up and list with all these details and get started. Will include the hydro oil, good info. Strange how it random and only happpens here and there...will work fine but only slows down after a turn. I can't find anything stuck or suspect and no codes showing. Sounds like its maybe put under strain in a turn and machine power gets limited or something if that makes sense? Already ordered filters. The incab air filter was so clogged its barely was blowing air. (a/c works good fortunatlly. Its a hot summer here in TN) After a closer look at the exhaust its rusted out on the back side in about 3 places, blowing out at engine/cab/alternator. I called CAT for a replacement exhaust.. Said it was right at $1,000 and had to come from Australia. I have also looked at some exhaust repair kits. Anyone tried these with success? Hate to spend $1000 on exhaust but want to right also. Appreciate the specifics on fulids and ideas on what to do. Ready to get her working daily.
Water pump belt tension is often overlooked. Also, does it have later style hydraulic filter(s) system on it? The revision on my 953C involved separate filters for each side drive. Mine is 2ZN0177*. Each drive motor failure prior to the update scrambled the whole enchilada. I figure that between Cat and I, there's over $60k in drive repairs before 3k hours. It has 8k hours on it now. Oh, and the water separator update where the screen separator is swapped for a 117-4089, and an additional fuel filter is added.
take the exhaust off and go to a muffler/welding shop, get them to make you a new one for $200. I would not waste hay kind of money on exhaust. Heavy truck shops stock exhaust pieces big enough.
Try to type the part number into machinery trader. Also as long as both ends of the pipe are in good shape you can cut off the flex pipe and replace it by itself and just reattach with typical preformed exhaust clamps. The end that attaches at the turbo is a pretty standard part that most auto parts stores can get. I can't remember for sure on a 53 if you have to weld a short piece of pipe to in order to slip on the flex though. Either way it is not a big deal to come up with something. You can try a preformed aftermarket piece but the few I have gotten had to be cut apart and rewelded in different positions. Almost like their jig was off a few degrees when they were made at the factory
$390 for a muffler, and my Cat dealer has it in stock. 435-6035
You've been given a load of good information & excellent advice in the posts above. To start with your machine is not a 2005. It was originally manufactured in November 2002. However to get correct parts & service information for it all that you require is the Serial Number. It is a late 2nd-Generation 2ZN machine. The BBX-prefix machine like the one CM1995 owns started production in July 2003, which is why when you said your machine was a 2005 everyone assumed it was a BBX. There are differences between the two that it is important to differentiate between them. Someone plain forgot about it - or a sign of a general lack of care on the part of the previous owner.? It should make you even more careful to get the maintenance right going forward. Did you find the manual behind the seat.? If not you really need one. You can download a genuine one from the internet for $49. Go to - https://catpublications.com/ When the popup appears click on Continue as Guest. Type SEBU7115 in the box and click Search. The illustration below should appear. Oh, and if you want to get a Parts Manual the same way, put SEBP2794 in the Search box.
There is a big difference between 2ZN and BBX machines. Muffler part # for my BBX is 208-0421 which has the "replacement contact dealer" message. Replaced the muffler on our 953C several years ago and went with a Cat classic muffler and it's held up well. It was cheaper than standard Cat OEM. X2 on getting a local muffler shop to make up the exhaust connection or off the shelf parts however if you need a muffler it will need to be specific to the machine. Since the cab A/C filter was toast means you really need to be maintenance intensive as Nige said. If they were too lazy to keep the cab cool for themselves then they definitely didn't care about the rest of the machine.
208-0421 subs to a 360-9624, @ $390, and it is in stock at my dealer.
From the difference in prices between the $1000 that the OP mentioned and others posting around $3-400 it sounds like the OP either needs a Parts Manual or access to SIS to make sure he's getting quoted for what he really needs.
Also check the pump drive housing if it is over full it will heat