I purchased this cylinder new almost 2 years ago but I have only got about 300 hrs of backhoe use before oil started running out. After calling the supplier, they only offered to cell be a seal kit. There is a lot of play between the rod and the gland. I would say the gland has been bored out too large at the wear bushing section. I don't think any seal will stand up to this much play. Guys, Look at the movie and tell me what you think. http://www.youtube.com/results?sear....0.0.0.72453.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0...0.0...1ac . If this link doesn't work just go to youtube and type in Conequipment cylinder
After viewing that vid, confident in saying there ain't a seal out there that will fix that leak.
Yes I agree, this is the second cylinder. The first one leaked the first day but they replaced it at no charge. Now I know that this one has all of this slop I assume the first one leaked for the same reason. I had to replace the OEM one because rust destroyed it. I'm going to call them tomorrow and ask them to view the video.
Respectfully, I don't envy your situation, you do know they're gonna come up with every BS reason/excuse why it's somehow a fault with the machine. :Banghead
Pull the cylinder and break it down. Gland should have/had a guide bushing in it for wear vs wearing the gland. Bushing may have actually slipped out and being a spacer now. What ever you find, take it to a good machine shop and have him bore/true up the gland, then machine a press fit bronze bushing in it, then bore it to your rod size. Repack with OEM seal kit. Dlr might spring for the kit when you can show him the worn/loose fit pieces.
There is definately a problem with the cylinder and they should fix it for you, if this is your 2nd cylinder from them, not sure I would want a third. Let us know how it turns out.
Guys, You've all got good point here. TD24, if this cylinder is built like the others on this machine, the fiber wear bushing cannot slip from its place. I'm imagining the gland has been bored too large at that point. If thats what I find when I break it down. I may be able to fit some shim stock into the recess to fill the void. I'm hoping Conequip will at least supply a new seal kit and show this to the cylinder manufacturer. Obviouly quality control has something missing at the manufacturing level.
Just to let you all know that after viewing the Youtube video, Conequip gladly agreed to send me a new seal kit. Unfortunately, the cylinder manufacturer did not want to help because the unit was past the 1 year warranty. So, once I have broken it down and determined what is wrong, it's up to me to repair it. The Youtube video has been removed in respect of the supplier.
Hey, you have gotten a start by getting the packing... A little fame vs dlr cost of a seal kit does wonders for co operation Curiosity: Why did it take 300 hours of ops to blow out if the gland was bored oversize to the bushing?
Curiosity: Why did it take 300 hours of ops to blow out if the gland was bored oversize to the bushing?[/QUOTE] TD24, Your guess is as good as mine. I can clearly see a gap between the dust seal and the rod when I wiggle the cylinder like you saw in the video. But I need to say, I did not yet break it down and won't have time to do so for another little while so I really don't know the cause of the slack at the present time. From what I remember from repacking the other cylinders is that the actual oil seal has a longer and more flexible lip than the outer dust seal. I have no better explanation than that but it actually did not leak just a couple weeks ago, at least very little if so.
Update about my loose cylinder rod. My supplier did send me new seals at no charge although the cylinder manufacturer did not feel responsible for anything. I took the leaking cylinder off the hoe and attempted to remove all parts and compare dimensions with the old Deere cylinder that I still have. What I was most interested in was the ID of the gland wear ring seat as that was what I assumed was the issue. Unfortunately, with the help of a large fin thread puller, torch and a 10 lb. sledge hammer all working together, I was not able to remove the piston from the rod to do any measuring. WOW! I did though, salvage the rod, piston and repaired the gland from the old Deere cylinder and assemble it to the aftermarket cylinder bore along with the new seal kit. I now have what seems like a good assembly with very little slack at the rod entry point. I have also found the piston wear bushing to have oil grooves gouged into it as you can see in the photos. Can someone explain how these grooves got this way in only 300 hrs. of backhoe use? Perhaps the piston seal was letting oil through? I did notice the piston grooves were turned very rough. Not at all smooth like the Deere piston. Although the piston did measure the same diameter at that location, oil could of been squeezing buy between the seal and the rough piston surface. What are your thoughts?
Commonly called a wear ring, wear band, wear bushing, but that ring is actually a support bearing to do two things, 1) keep piston from scraping the cylinder bore, and 2) to keep the weight of the piston/rod from squashing the piston seals against the bore. I hope you inspected the inside of the cylinder bore real good, those grooves in that support bearing ring are most likely caused by some form of debris inside the cylinder. The debris may be long gone, shot back to the hyd reservoir, but their may be some scratches inside the cylinder bore.
Willie, Thanks for your reply. I did look in the bore with a flash light and didn't find anything but the cylinder is deep. No scratches were anywere near the opening where I could clearly see and feel with my fingers. But the grooves are all rounded smooth like errosion. Seems if the wear ring was dragging something up and down the bore there would be scratches near the open end. I posted 2 photos. The damages are about 50% on one side and the other half is on the opposite side. All seems quite strange to me.
Is very strange indeed, but then, so is that gland with all the slack in it, some questions just never result in answers. If the bore is good, new seals fit good, and old gland is a proper fit, just have to chalk it up to damn the bad luck. Just sucks that they wouldn't honor faults with the cylinder that you paid good bucks for.
Willie ??? Is the piston on the rod backwards? Pic shows nut to right, then piston, with wear ring then seals on to the left. I recall most fork lift cylinders as having the wear ring front, then u-cups, then nut on cyl rod.May be a difference in equipment, but strange to me.
That's pretty common for these type cylinders TD24, bearing on back side of piston, side farthest from gland. Forklift cylinders, especially vertical mast, are very different.
Thanks for the word. Thought my memory was failing or eyesight had gone in reverse.