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New owner – JD 310SJ Clutch Disconnect Button not working

vikingsven ยท 2021-12-20 19:22

New owner of a used JD 310SJ here and my first piece of heavy machinery. I'm still in the process of learning the machine and doing basic maintenance and noticed this past weekend the clutch disconnect on the loader control stick doesn't work. What are the troubleshooting steps I should take to fix this? Thanks!

Replies4
  1. #1Billrog2021-12-20 19:32

    Not sure about JD but the one on my case I took apart and cleaned up the switch redid the connections and it's been working for a few yrs. now since.

  2. #2mg23612021-12-21 05:22

    Welcome to HEF vikingsven ! Serial numbers are always important i the equipment world for accurate information. If the machine moves then the fuse for that circuit is good. First thing you should do is with the key on, press and hold the menu button until "service menu" pops up. Then scroll to diagnostics and press select. Scroll to switches and press select. Scroll to "clutch disc sw" and press select. Now press and release your clutch disconnect button. See if it changes in the monitor from on to off and back. If it does then your switch is good and your issue is most likely wiring or the solenoid. If it does not change state then you have a button/wiring issue on that end of the circuit.

  3. #3vikingsven2021-12-21 11:57

    Thanks for the replies and tips. The machine moves without issue, so the fuse should be good. I'll run the diagnostic check, and clean the switch if it fails, and report back.

  4. #4vikingsven2021-12-29 21:03

    Well, had a chance to run some diagnostics on the clutch disconnect switch and as MG2361 described and I get no function from the switch. Next I checked the connection and it looked fine - no corrosion on the pins. I also verified voltage at that point. All good. Then I stripped back a little insulation near the button itself and checked voltage there, and it was also good. I cut the switch out (couldn't figure out how to remove it from through the loader handle tube?, and I can solder it back on later if need be) and ran a continuity test on it. The switch appears to be dead. I messed with it a bit and actually got consistent continuity through it, but shortly after it was lost again and appears dead. So the switch is faulty. Local shop wants $162 for one. Does anyone know of another place to try that may be more affordable? Thanks again for the help.