hi all. recently purchased a kx91-3 ss2. machine works good.runs strong, no leaks and other than the bucket pin it’s pretty tight for a machine with 3000hrs. i have a couple questions i’m hopeful someone on here can help me with. should the machine still travel with both lock out levers raised ? the right one cuts all but the travel and blade ( lift and angle) the left ( raises joystick also) seems to do the same. kinda thought the left side lever would cut all hydraulics? next question is i cannot activate the auto idle. nothing happens if i push the buttons on the throttle control. the dial manually operates the throttle fine but neither of the buttons do anything. dealer wants 400 bucks for the new part so wanted to ask before i bought the new one if there’s anything i should check besides the obvious like fuses and wire condition ( all looks to be fine there ) also the function button on the main dash won’t work. the aux hyd button works and activates the aux and has all three settings. the light button has been disconnected and a toggle switch runs the work lights so it also likely doesn’t work. but the button on the far right of the three buttons does nothing. should switch displays from hours to rpm to a menu for changing hydraulic settings for diff attachments i though anyway? dealer wants like 3grand for an new dash panel so i’m wondering if there is anything i can do to confirm it’s the control panel. the light comes on when the machine is first turned on and the button feels like it clicks like the others when pressed. next question the sticker says “float angle blade” on the side of the machine. does it have a float ? i looked and couldn’t find a way to float it and didn’t see anything in the op manual online. last question does anyone know if a quick coupler ( k7870 ) will fit the kx91. local dealer can’t even find the part in their system and are no help whatsoever. it has a kubota tag and p/n but apparently it’s not something they can even tell me about. they would happily sell me a 1600 dollar wedge lock style. the coupler was purchased with the machine and i want to get it set up and be able to use it with diff attachments. i found the ears and plan to build a ripper and weld the ears to my current pin on digging bucket. as well as i want a smooth edge bucket for it. kubota can’t even find a bucket that isn’t a new style wedge lock. im fine with welding ears to a bucket but would like to get pins for it and start using the q/c system. it didn’t come with pins and im unsure if the pins in the machine now will work or if the coupler will actually fit. looks like it will fit the dipper end. google says it’s off a kx121. the bucket on the machine has a kubota tag that also says kx121 so i assume they share a common set up. ? thanks for reading and appreciate any help and advise.
Hey Funny farm: I have the Kubota U55-4 (2016 with angle blade and enclosed cab). I don't have the same configuration for dash and "Pilot Control Lock Levers". I have a single PCLL on the left side. When raised all hydraulics are locked including the tracks. I can only adjust engine speed, AC, etc... The electrical issues that you describe seem very suspicious to me. I would pull the service covers on the panel and look for evidence of mice chewing wires. I started a thread on this issue because these little critters have cost me thousands of dollars in damage on cars, AC for the house and my tractor. I've been trying to proactively keep them out of my excavator-knowing the damage they can cause. By pulling service covers you'd be able to check circuit boards for popped fused (many not replaceable...and thus the entire circuit board needs to be replaced), burn marks, obvious component failures, etc... It may be something worth tackling yourself. Circuit boards are usually not too tough to switch out. Also, you have an open cab so you could also be dealing with corrosion...and the fix might not be expensive. You might need to clean contacts an reseal with appropriate electrical goo. My angle blade float is engaged by quickly pushing the angle blade control lever forward (all the way) and as quickly releasing it. The blade then relaxes and settles its full weight on the ground. It's the same way I engage the bucket float function on my tractor. Good luck. Hope these thoughts help some. Allan
ahh. yes that should have come to me sooner for the float function . the old case backhoe has to held forward to float lol i will try that. thanks. the machine functions well enough and does what it’s supposed to do for the most part. im just a little ocd and like things to work. bugs me when something small like that don’t work right. kubota said the units are sealed and non serviceable. and they are. thanks for the reply. hopefully i can find something wrong that isn’t expensive computer parts lol adjusting the hydraulic flows for the aux isn’t that important to me. only going to use the thumb and possibly a tilt smooth edge bucket. so paying 3+grand for the main display isn’t happening but would be nice to have the auto idle working.
the safety disconnect is usually an electric switch, and someone may have jumpered it in the past.
but am i correct that it should cut all hydraulics including the drives and blade functions? it only cuts the forward hydraulics. with both levers locked out it will still travel and operate the blade.
you are correct and that is wrong. I'd be with you in wanting that right.
thanks. yes i agree and will be looking into why it will not fully lock the machine out. it does cut everything else and shuts off the aux but didn’t think it should travel or do anything when locked out.
Actually if you move my blade lever forward and hold it, it doesn't go into the float function. I need to quickly move the lever all the way forward and release it. Then the blade shifts to float mode and lowers to the ground with its full weight, not hydraulic push.
One last thought: If you've checked to make sure that wiring looks okay and you suspect a sealed control module has failed then start watching eBay and other sites like ConEquip ( https://www.conequip.com/parts/part...MIht-MqMu8-AIVZAp9Ch1ilQcXEAAYASAAEgIA5_D_BwE ) where you might find a used module for less than half the new price. While buying used electronics can be sketchy, if the vendor is reliable then you have a good chance of acquiring a good unit. I did this when I was restoring a sports car. The electronic control module new was $1800 plus change. I bought a used module on eBay for $450. It worked fine.
well i was working with the machine a little today and if i push the blade lever forward quick and let go it definitely floats. funny it wasn’t in the op manual ♂️.