I just bought this D6C 69J (Mitsubishi built) at an auction over the weekend. It has a practically new undercarriage under it and is as straight of a machine for it's age as can be found. All hood enclosures and panels came with it. Problem is the injection pump had quit on it and the owner started taking it apart, then died. The machine sat for 7 years with an uncovered Cat cut exhaust pipe on it and the story was it had water down the manifold. The weep hole kept it drained and no rain got into the engine, but it is stuck. I poured diesel and oil down the turbo elbow until it stopped running in and after a day of setting I can now rock the crank a little bit. Any pointers on getting it unstuck? My father and I and have broke tractors loose before and hope this one will shake loose without having to go into it. I am not finding a lot of info so far on the injection pump. Are there any common problems with these pumps?
Will be a 69J2882 up s/n to have a sleeve metering fuel pump. Earlier ones than this all have compact scroll pump. SMFS pumps do,nt like any water whatsoever in the fuel. And are a very expensive pump to overhaul. They only came of a certain period of the Japanese built tractors. With the start of the 31X Japanese D6D in 78 they went back to the older more reliable scroll pump. Although afaik all the US built 4X D6D still had the SMFS pump. Others in the US will tell you options for local repair better than me
would have been better to pull the injectors and poured some lubricant directly into cylinders, than down the exhaust
Going to need to pull injectors anyway, motors don't like to turn over when the cyls are full of liquid Pj
Yeah, if it's rocking now, it might turn with the injectors out. Whatever you do, don't try the starter with oil in the engine. Btw, you do know the oil will only go into one cylinder that way? The exhaust valves are closed on the others.
As it will only slightly move, the starter is out of the question right now. Pouring it into manifold should get it into open cylinders which I figure are stuck from condensation. It's a long way from hydraulic lock. I am not familiar with these injectors and haven't got a manual yet so I don't see how to pull them or I would have poured it down injector holes.
Have had water in piston before. Take value pan cover off and open each exhaust valve 1/2 to 1 turn, just enough to know each valve is unseated by a 32nd to 16th of inch. If engine is free, will eliminate hydraulic lock. Roll it thru by hand. Bob ACHD21a
I'd side with Merv. Pull the injectors and drop some light oil down the holes, then after letting it sit for a day or so try rocking the engine back and forth. Any excess oil will be expelled out of the injector bores thus eliminating the possibility of hydraulic locking. Plus the advantage of pulling the injectors gives you the opportunity to get them tested and either replace or reinstall the old ones with new seals. For the time the machine has been stopped that would be money very well spent IMO. Lastly with the injectors out there would be no problems associated with giving it a tweak or two with the starter motor to help free it once you have it rocking back and forth a few degrees.