A guy on a definitely non-heavy equipment forum, actually a Vespa Scooter Forum, who is retired from working on the Cape in the Delta IV Rocket program spotted this on a boat the other day and felt it was worth sharing. I am giving the "engineer" of this method the benefit that this was to supply power to two separate accessories and not just one! Being it was used on a boat I'm sure it is an approved Coast Guard method. Also I will save any comments on other problems in picture for latter!
I don’t even know where to start.....
I'd make snide and rude comments, but I've got one crane that makes this look like a professional install. Its got wires that start and stop everywhere. Its been messed with by everyone and their dog since 1978. If something doesn't work, its just easier to run a new wire. Its a total mess and I would be embarrassed to show anyone it. Thank goodness when we repowered it is a manual 8.3, it doesn't need anything electrical to run.
That sure is some creative "engineering" for sure....zeeeesh. I'm sure salt or moisture will never have any adverse affects on those "connections"....
Yes but you know that it is not good I think this person feels he came up with a "brilliant" solution. Now if this wiring was done to get power to an emergency radio while dead in the water with a storm heading his way I might think different about the method.
I think the only solution for my crane is to just pull it all out and start over. And I never have time for that, so I just end up fixing whatever is wrong, and close the door. Its not right, and I don't like it, but its just such a mess and has been for so long, I pretend it isn't there. So I just try not to be snarky about other people's wiring fixes, because someday someone is going to come across a old grove 25 ton truck crane, and post up pictures of the wiring mess that it is......
Those taps on the cable are slick I'll have to remember that. A bit better than the tap on the black wire. The battery hold-down screw seems a bit light too.
Not impressed... I just spent 2.5 hours this afternoon trying to find the fault in the taillights on a Peterbilt tractor. Somebody stabbed the wire with a test probe and the deicer got the copper in the insulation. The copper was blue dust a 1/4" each side of the stab mark.
Was kinda thinking the same thing but at least coat the connection with liquid tape when done... Yep, seen that too... started around here a few years back when they started really using the liquid deicer a lot instead of sand. Also seen the little blue IDC taps everyone likes using to build trailers with turn into little plastic boxes full of blueish powder.
Yeah, you cant keep anything working unless it's in good shrink tube with the goo that oozes out. The liquid tape is good stuff too. I use plenty of grease to try to seal plugs on the lights but well... they still rot pins off eventually.
LOL! This reminds me of a T-shirt I saw 2 days ago that I wish I had taken a pic of to put here. It said "I am a Mechanic because your HONOR ROLL STUDENT that got a college degree in ENGINEERING didn't design things right the first time."
Best thing I've ever come across so far for keeping moisture out of electrical connections (and stab marks from test probes) is Senson Electroguard grease and their associated sealing tape. Here we get approximately 120" of rainfall a year or thereabouts and this stuff keeps our electrical system connections, for the most part anyway, dry. http://sensontek.com.au/greases-tapes/electroguard-dielectric-grease-250g-cartridge/ http://sensontek.com.au/amalgamating-tape/sat-19-self-amalgamating-tape-9metre-roll/
We do have a "how to" document about applying this stuff. If anyone is interested PM me with an email address and you're welcome to a copy.
I know a guy who owns a machine job shop. He has three 4/0 welding leads laid down along the wall, each a leg of 3ph 240V. When he gets a new machine or moves another, he kills the power, goes to where the machine will be, drives a steel deck screw into each of the leads, and wraps the stripped end of the machine cord around the screw. He's not a total heathen, so he wraps the mess with 7000ft of garbage freight electrical tape. I think he uses the copper compressed air plumbing as ground. I'm afraid to touch the door knob when I go there.
Are they 10 or 15 amp self tappers
Personally I like the #6 x 3/4 - 30 amp self tapper
I believe the amp ratings are equal to the screw size. #6 Screw for 6 amps, #10 Screw for 10 amps and so on! Once you get past the # size screws just take the screw diameter in decimal inch size and drop the decimal point. So a 1/4 inch lag bolt would be .25 inch so that would be good for 25 amps!
Maybe that's why my #6 - 30 amp is always getting warm....
Please assure us we are still talking about electrical wiring!
LOL!!! Yep , just trying to be funny
Good that was the reason I stated this post! Figured a little humor was a good thing especially at a time there was another thread going on that turned rather sour rather fast! I think that one should disappear without a ****!
Yeah that's the problem with a keyboard... it doesn't always transmit the subtle nuances the way I think it should sometimes ... or could be the person(me) typing it out ditto on the other thread, wasn't following it too close until I saw the lock on it this morning... wow!
Where's that one at?
Got to be Kidding!!
Sometimes I can be dumb.
took me a while to find t'other thread, but I traced it out... Good thing I didn't get involved... some keyboard commandos just can't keep from typing their egos...