I'm finding one new disappointment after another on this thing. My NH575E runs 5 minutes then shuts off. Has to sit 30 minutes or so before it will restart. The temperature gauge isn't working so I'm not sure how warm it's getting. No signs or smells of overheating though. I topped off the coolant this morning and it took about 1/2 gallon but that isn't that low for this system. I do need to figure out how the test the temperature gauge. It looks to have a two wire sensor at the thermostat housing. Haven't found the wiring diagram in the service manual yet to figure out how to test.
It sound like a fuel problem to me. I think you need to provide some more details to help figure out what's wrong.
If it has coolant in it, even if it had no fan belt, it isn't getting hot enough in 5 minutes to shut off. I'd be looking at the fuel system, too.
Loosen the fuel cap and see if it will stay running. If it does stay running, the vent in the cap or in the tank is plugged.
What does it sound like when it shuts off? And what does it do when you try to restart it? just crank, and how does it start if you wait half an hour? crank for a while then sputter then run right, or pop right off and run fine?
It does sound like a fuel issue. Have you checked the clear bowl that it is full and doesn't contain even a bit of air? When it does run can you rev it up and down and the turbo winds up too?
I agree that it is probably a fuel problem. Right before it shuts off it starts hunting like it's running out of fuel. After it shuts off it will just spin and not try to start. After it sits a while it seems to start and run pretty normal but may hunt a little. I really haven't run it through enough cycles to tell you a distinct pattern and I haven't checked anything yet. Will try the fuel cap and look at the bowl tomorrow. Thanks for all the ideas so far. I just got off on the temperature subject as a side note because I haven't seen the gauge move. It may not even have a thermostat in it for all I know. If I could locate a simple one wire temperature sending unit I would feel comfortable just grounding the wire and seeing if the gauge moves. The only sending unit I see at the thermostat housing is a two wire and does not match the type connector shown in the manual for it. It looks like a typical Bosch style injector type connector. The PDF wiring diagram is useless as **** on a boar hog.
HeavyEquipmentForums ) "theres a screen in the fuel pump keep it clean and you have power" And if there's not a screen there, then there should be, or there's something else that's completely plugged. I doubt it's sucking any air because it would be much harder to start if it sucked air, right? Start disconnecting lines when it dies, you'll lose the suction on the first one so start at the tank, that should have fuel there at least.
So I'm back after this problem. My tractor is apparently a newer 575E and has an electric pump mounted on top of the filter housing. I can't even find that setup in the online parts manual. It doesn't have the mechanical pump with the lift lever therefore it doesn't have the screen talked about in the thread linked above. The previous owner must have been chasing something because they installed a second electric pump in the hose but had left it disconnected. He told me they just used it to bleed the system after changing the filter since it doesn't have the manual lift pump. Today I pulled a sample from the tank and it had a very small amount of debris settle in the clear container I pumped it into. I removed the pump they added and blew through that. It creates a restriction when not powered up so I tried leaving it out and the same thing happens. Runs a while then starts to hunt and runs out of fuel. The electric pump on the tractor is still running when the engine dies. I pulled the sediment bowl and cleaned it out but it had next to nothing in it but clean fuel. I blew back through the hose going to it and it is free and you can hear it bubbling in the tank. I decided to try putting the add on electric pump back in the line and wired it to come on with the key. turned the key on and bled the line to the injection pump then started the tractor. It ran 8 to 10 minutes then shut off. I can let it sit a little while and it starts right back up. I guess tomorrow I will try to remove the factory electric pump to see if I find a screen in it. It would sure be nice to find a factory parts breakdown showing the pump it has before tearing into it though.
Man sorry to hear of your woes. Not wanting to sound like a parrot, but does the bowl stay full after it starves and dies? Basically the diagram in the manual is only for mechanical lift pump not emission type w electric pump. From tracing a issue after I had issues, the line went right from the right side of the bowl assy and then over to the filter/lift pump then onto inj pump. I found that there is no check valve in that line that runs back to the tank, and when I pulled it the pump is not strong enough to overcome the head and pull the fuel up there into it. Who knows what the previous owners were up to, or what plumbing they changed. Can it make full power for the 5-10minutes? Does it want to restart say after a minute with just the key on or does it take upto 30min in order to restart? The pump assy is 87802238 on ebay for like ~$85 the filters for our emission type should be 87801285 (5mic) but 86555246 should also work. I can feel your pain my stabilizer just started with good droop and looks like I'll be repacking them in the spring, so I'm interested to hear how you make out and if the kit worked out ok.
x-ray, All input is welcome. I emailed you my cell phone if you want to call when you get into the stabilizer. I am going to make a final post in that thread to outline my thoughts on what the deal is with that. This fuel issue seems to be cured but I am not sure what action cured it. (Don't you hate it when that happens?) I pulled the inlet screen at the injection pump and found nothing there that should cause it. I pulled the pump and filter assembly off and took both apart. Didn't see anything there but decided to replace the filter while I had it off. With the filter stuck on and the pump removed I could blow through the filter. It took a little effort but I would expect that with it saturated with fuel. I blew through all the lines and they were free. Blowing through the return line back to the tank took more effort than the supply line at first so there may have been some restriction in it. I had wired the pump the previous owner installed so it would run with the key on but when I got ready to bleed the system I found it had died so I removed it altogether. I know it created a restriction when not running but I had taken it out before and the problem was still there. I had a transfer pump I tried to use to bleed the system out. I connected it to the supply line in front of the fuel bowl and when it pumped the fuel lines full I had a massive leak at the tractor's fuel pump. I guess I hadn't seated that o-ring good. When I re-seated the tractor fuel pump my new transfer pump weakened and would not pump the system back up. It had already filled the filter so I guess the system didn't need much priming. The electric lift pump on the tractor does not have the oomph to suck fuel from the tank to bleed things out. (Don't know why they even put it on) It sounded like it wasn't primed at all with the key on. As soon as I engaged the starter the electric pump tone changed and the engine started then died. I reckon the injection pump must have enough suction to pull the fuel in with the engine spinning over. A couple of more spins of the starter and it came to life and continued running. Sooooo at the end of the day I suppose replacing the fuel filter, possibly dislodging a restriction in the return line, and removing the pump the previous owner installed was all it needed. I ran it at high idle for an hour while I was grinding on the bucket and greasing things. I occasionally got inside and operated some hydraulic circuits to put a load on it. Then I took it out back and dug up 4 stumps in about 45 minutes. All in all I ran it a couple of hours without it missing a beat. Hopefully it will keep going.
Great to hear you got one licked. I might just take you up on that offer. Yea mine too recently died due to jelling/waxing, but took the easy win on that one too (warmed up). Busy 'round here getting ready for Sugaring...
A way to make fuel bleeding easy is to take an old inner tube and cut a hole out of it so you can clamp it on to the tank fill. Take and but 2 to 3 psi of air pressure in it expanding the tube a bit. Go about loosing the bleeders and the air will push the fuel thru. Works great on all diesels.
Well the POS shut off again. I've got 4 or 5 hours run time on it with no troubles. Went out this evening and dug a couple of stumps and it started to hunt then shut down. Sediment bowl is full of clean fuel. Electric lift pump sounded like it lost prime. Didn't feel like messing with it since it was getting dark so I just came in the house.
Check very carefully for cracks on your rubber fuel lines, with much attention around the aera of the little hose clamps. If any doubt cut end off of line and reinstall. I think you have air leak.
I think that could be possible. I will probably replace the supply and return hoses as well as the metal line seals. I blew out both lines again yesterday and they were open. I pressurized the tank to fill the supply line and reconnected it. The machine ran 5 minutes and shut off again. Next time I test it I will have the air tank handy and try to pressurize the tank to see if it recovers. If I let it sit a while it starts back up without doing anything. I also need to check the air filter. (Something I should have done first )
Air filter is dirty but not the problem. I bought new fuel lines and will replace when I go back together next time. On closer inspection the sediment bowl had more stuff in it than it did the first time I cleaned it. Pumped the fuel tank out using a hose on a tube with a cheap 12v transfer pump. Fished around on the bottom with the tube and kept getting slugs of rusty looking stuff. Finally locked up the pump with a big chunk. Stuck a small video camera and light in the tank to inspect and it looks like the bottom of the tank is rusted. I am wondering now if the new fuel filter I put on is restricted. The old one didn't look that bad when I cut it apart but it may not take much. Going to get expensive putting $45 filters on every week if it is. I could blow pressure in the tank and it would start back up and run another 5 minutes. I broke my socket adapter off in the 17mm allen trying to get the drain plug out. All I can think to do is put fuel back in and keep pumping off the bottom to get as much stuff out as I can. I am thinking about discarding the whole factory filter and pump assembly and retrofitting with a larger see through water separator/filter and universal pump. It would cost less to service and replace and have local availability.
NH575E i have been reading your thread i dont know anything about your model of tractor but i have a case 580ck and it was giving fits like yours and the fix for mine was to pull the tank remove all the fittings and i sprayed mine out with a water hose and after i got all the crap out of the tank i put a heat gun in the filler opening and dried it out before it could rust any and i havent had a problem sense ....and the tank on a ck is a real pita to remove......Have you thought of pulling yours and giving it a good flush or is there a reason that cant be done on your model....just sounds like your going to continue to fight this unless you can get all the crap out of the tank ???????
I am considering all options including removing the tank. It doesn't look like this one would be that hard to remove. Not sure I can't clean it just as well on the machine if I get the drain plug to loosen but may have to remove tank to get the sending unit out of the way. Going to weld my broken 17mm socket to a bar of steel and heat the boss to try getting that drain plug out again. If I can get the drain plug to come out I am also think I might be able to get a sock filter on the pickup tube. I got a lot of loose stuff out with the transfer pump before I killed it. Wish I would have stopped as soon as I saw the dirty stuff coming out and put a filter on that. Going to try to rig a scraper or wire brush I can scrub the tank bottom with to break loose the rest of it. Any and all suggestions are welcome!
Take the tank off, strap it to a concrete mixer, add some broken glass or crushed rock, a gallon of water, tumble till the rust is loose, may have to tilt the mixer or reposition the tank. Rinse, dry and re install. Or get the drain plug loose and pressure wash what you can reach. Or add the broken glass/gravel and let a hose run in it to do the agitation, you'd need to get creative with an overflow out the bottom and a nozzle on the hose, but it might work. Look up the suck bucket to get the junk out of the tank like that. And/or put a filter base in the line coming right off the tank, even a $2 oil filter will catch most of the junk and save your expensive filter. OR, screw it. Put a 5 gallon plastic tank in somewhere and forget all about condensation, rust and gunk in your fuel.
Heck if yours aint that hard to remove you would probably be glad you did it as it would probably give you a few more options for getting that junk out of there....I watched some stuff on youtube about cleaning out fuel tanks and theres a lot of different ways people have come up with heck one guy even used muratic acid in a motorcycle tank and swore by it.That idea of delmers sounds like it would work great with the cement mixer i have also heard of using a bunch of nuts and washers in them to break the rust loose just count them so you know how many to dig back out of it when your done...Got any pics of your rig you can post????/
Hmmmmmmmm, maybe I could cut the top off and find a plastic tank to put inside.
This is pretty impressive and I think I'll try it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlcL_vHODkc
NH.....That looks like it would work and maybe throw something in the tank to shake around to loosen everything up with the vinegar ....They also sell some stuff i was considering that after you get your tank clean you mix up this stuff and pour it into the tank and you keep turning the tank and it makes a liner inside the tank i cant remember exactly what its called but there are videos an youtube about that stuff and theres more than one of it....I was gonna go there but after hoseing mine out it looked good so i just put it back together......I think if you get her cleaned out good you will be glad you did it if not i think it will just keep being a pita
Here is what I rigged up to get the rest of the fuel out. I stuck a tube that fit snug in the vent hole of an alcohol jug, used a piece of 3/8" tygon, and another tube on the end to fish around in the tank. I put my shop vac hose on the pour spout and put the jug under a vacuum. I was able to shine a light in the fill hole and get a picture through the sending unit hole after it was empty.
I had a VW rabbit with a rusted gas tank. Paper filters would clog in a couple of weeks. Got a glass globe filter off a Toyota pickup. I could see how much junk was in the globe and empty the globe. Why they got rid of those filters, I don't know....
I'm going to try and retrofit one of these with a universal pump. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/dutton-lainson-goldenrod-495-fuel-filter?cm_vc=IOPDP1 Also ordered a 5/16 sock filter to try and fish onto the pickup tube.
Made a little more headway on fixing this. Have decided to put it back together stock for now since I'm pretty sure I found the actual power robber. Should have checked this the first go round because it was noted in another 575E no power thread but the banjo fitting for the sediment bowl was clogged. I didn't remove it when I cleaned the bowl before but I blew through it and thought it was clear. NOT! Tank need cleaning anyway so I'm moving on with that. I need to dry the rest of the water out and try to get the drain plug loose. I still hope to put a sock filter on the pickup tube. I soaked it overnight with a 50% vinegar and water mix, blew it all out with the pressure washer, then rinsed and vacuumed till the water came out clear.
This went back together and ran fine. Best of all I have confidence it will continue to run. Couldn't get the sock filter on the pickup tube as I had hoped. So at the end of the day I cleaned out the tank, cleaned out all the lines and fittings, replaced the feed and return hoses, and added a small fuel filter at the inlet fitting. In the future that should clog before anything else and be easily discovered. For the benefit of future NH575E owners seeing this I used 6' each of 5/16" feed and 3/8" return hose. I couldn't get the old hoses to pull out easily so I ran the new hose through a less obstructed path and cut the old hoses off as far in as I could reach.
nh575e glad to hear you go her fixed sounds like you can get on with the real work now......
As for cleaning the tank, I had an old truck with rust and old fuel issue (turned to tar like) inside. I pulled it and took it to a radiator shop and they cut it open , cleaned it, and sealed and treated the inside with a rust inhibitor and welded it back together! Worked great!