iv got a 1999 3406e it has great fuel pressure on a gage gets 70 when turning over then drops to 0 when it stops jand primer is stiff and can hear the fuel regulator "whineing when pumping" it is acting like it wants to fire up but just wont fire up on either gas wd40 nothing any ideas
Has the tach been acting wonky? Does the tach work while cranking? Codes? How has it been running lately? Serial #? Check the ECM fuse? Try tapping on the cam sensor. But don’t break it. She’ll fire right up. Guaranteed, or your money back.
He want's his money back.
tac moves when cranking changes the speed sensor i believe its the one at the bottom of the motor at the driver side didnt change anything all fuses are good and problem is its been sitting for a few years we are just at a dead end on ideas
Cam sensor is on top of the front cover driver side. You are pounding on the wrong sensor.
Maybe spin new fuel filters on her and a shot of fresh fuel?
The fuel is crap I bet.
What's the serial # as Nige would ask. WD40 or gas is a bad substitute for diesel fuel. Change filters get a clean bucket of fuel and draw from that. It might build pressure but can't expect it to run on crap fuel. Hopefully no old bio fuel in it.
Check your ecm wires for live power and keyed power. I don’t have a schematic up for it but I think 70 is keyed power and 48, 52 are live to battery. There will likely be an ecm fuse in the battery box too.
3176B, C-10, C-12 and 3406E share engine and roughly same vehicle harness wiring tp to 6TS-1 3406. Check ECM power and ground connections with ignition key on. Battery voltage at ECM connector P1/J1 pin-6 + battery to pin-5 -battery should be 11.0 to 13.5 volts. Pin 4 is unswitched +battery. Make sure fuel injector connector J5/P5 at top of cylinder head is clean and connected. #6 pin is key switched and should have a breaker, #4 pin is unswitched off the battery and has a breaker.
Does this thing have Jakes? There should be a pair of 10 amp fuses off the starter iirc in nice little fuse holders. Make sure you have power at both ends, not just a fuse that looks good. As mentioned earlier check the connections at the ECM.
I had a truck, Pete, that had good fuses and all the wiring checked out. Got to fiddling with the fuse panel while cranking…..not sure why I did that….boom she busted right off. Evidently windshield had been leaking and there was corrosion on the backside of the fuse panel and my wiggling things around woke it up. Also, just because you have juice doesn’t mean you have a good ground. KW’s are notorious for ground issues, at least in my experience.
Good point, Junkyard. Especially if Beetle_spin had the batteries out of it and missed one of the very many wires hooked up all over the place.
ill have to check it out this afternoon been rainy the past few days here i drained all the old fuel and got new fuel started with 5 gallons in a can to no avail it has great pressure off a gage hooked to the fuel base get around 60 or 70 cranking but drops to zero when stoped ill have to check the ecm pins to see what has power and what dosent also check the fuse block id almost bet somthing is coroded idk what the part is at the bottom is than yall are saying the speed sensor is on top at the front iv got a idea of what sensor or plug is there but ill take a look this afternoon also the serial starts with 2ws id have to get the full serial later
I sent you the electrical schematic for a 3406E 2WS-prefix
The 2WS would have the cam/rotation sensor on the back side of front structure behind air compressor. The early 5EK had the cam/rotation sensor mounted to the upper outside edge of structure. IIRC 97 or 98 was the last years for that style. Nige--was the schematic SENRS5574-04 Jan 1999, that's what is printed on mine?
SENR5574-04 doesn't cover 2WS-prefix engines, at least they are not listed on the cover page. The schematic I found for 2WS was RENR2337-08 dated March 2021. Comparing the two schematics the ECM power pinouts are very different. On RENR2337 it shows unswitched power on Pins 48, 52, & 53, plus switched power from the key on Pin 70.
Thank you Nige. Would the OP-disregard my post #10.
Strange both SENR5574-04 and RENR2337-08 reference the same engines according to Nige.
Broadly speaking similar engine models between the two schematics but not 100% identical. Also the list of engine S/N prefixes listed in the two schematics are completely different.
iv got power on 45 key hot on 70 but power on 52 and no wire on 53 on that plug but the plug on the right has a wire in 53 but still no power to it
52 and 53 are unswitched constant power, did you check the breakers/fuses and connections at batteries, starter areas?
i dont see any fuses near the battery or starter area the only fuses for the batterys that i see are the mini ones inside and the big 100 amp ones under the hood that look like a junktion box
also what i found strange is one plug has 52 but no 53 and the other has 53 but no 52 wire but it was dark when i went to check them and im also dislexic so that dosent help me much i will check agin tomarow if the weather allows
also one more thing i noticed is when the tac "moves" it just drops down from zero to as low as it can go same as the speedo just realised its not actualy reading rpms if im thinking right yes its moveing but not in the right way
Crank/cam sensor I'm thinking-I ran through the same scenario before with a very early 5EK.
i swaped the crank sensor with a new one someone let me borrow it didnt change anything but from what i am reading it seems that the cam sensor is what allows it to crank up but please correct me if i am wrong im new to working on trucks drive em daily work on them rarely
i changed all 3 white wires out 2 were skinned real bad 1 was almost cut in half but the ground wire still has voltage on it can anyone explain why it would
Voltage going in or coming out?
If the ground wire has voltage it isn't ground. Check/clean the ground connections, all of them.
Way to spoil my fun.
A dirty old ground with juice is a good indicator there is a bad or missing ground.
Check starter area, make sure all grounds from starter to block to frame are clean and tight. In some cases depending on application ecm grounds are also attached in those spots. Sometimes those can be missed when a starter has been changed out in past.
Or the 10ga cables at the batteries and the weatherpack/deutsch connector in between the batteries and the ECM.
Physically tug on every connection as well. Had a C15 that suddenly shut off on the road. Short version was the computer power wire at the positive battery connection was broken. A quick look showed every thing looked. A tug test revealed the failed ring connector.
sorry been so long got discuraged at the truck and didnt do anything to it for a while but its sounding like its a ground from all the ground responces im almost certin the white wire that shows 10 volts is supost to be a ground becouse if i touch it to positive truck wont cycle or anything atm it will bust off on either for a split second im thinking it could be not primed but the primer pump is hard to push external gage hooked to the fuel filter base shows 60-70 pounds when cranking but drops to zero when i stop if this rain holds out i will check and clean all of the grounds fingers crossed this ole girl will wake up soon
how much of a voltage drop is normal at the starter i put a volt meter on the power wire and got someone to turn it over we had the batterys on a charger so was reading 13 volts when they turned it over the voltage droped to 8 volts
Isn't the electrical system 24v rather than 12v.? Certainly sounds like it when you mention "batteries" rather than "battery". Anything stamped on the starter to indicate voltage.? Are the batteries wired in series or in parallel.?
the 3 batterys are wired in paralell thats how they were before it got shut down i believe there is a stamp on the starter i will have to check if it says 12 or 24
the starter use to have a sticker on it but the writeing is long gone but i did some checking with a volt meter and found the frame is energized and that the culprite is one of the 3 smaller wires that run to a junktion box with 100 amp fuses at the top of the fire wall does anyone happen to know which wires in that setup is power and which is ground before i cut into the wire loom to trace wires out
Take a picture of the junction box. . It’s worth a thousand words. I feel your frustration. Trucks suck to work on. Nothing but pain and heartache. Tilt the hood, just to discover broken dreams, broken wires and broken promises. Big money pits, where all hope is lost. Lifestyle of truck stop food and **** jugs, tossed out the window just like my interpersonal relationships from being on the road full-time. Me personally, YMMV, I power through the agony by slamming my Johnson with the door of the truck, first thing in the morning. The rest of the day is bound to be better.
i feel your pain i can take a picture here soon when i get to the truck i think i made a dumb mistake and wired a hot wire onto the starter ground instead of the solenoid gona go check that out
for what its worth i hope your day is better than the last just gotta keep your head held high
this is the "junction box"
i rubbed the dust away and found out what it is but if anyone knows the name of what that is called id love to know also found out i didnt hook a power wire to the negative terminal of the starter and cant find any voltage on the ground or frame today this truck just loves playing games with me
For a 3.3MB file, I can’t see see anything in that picture except some blurry stuff. Maybe it’s me. I’ve been huffing diesel all day.
i didnt know how to make it a full image
i found another truck near me that i can test my computer out on my question is can you literaly just swap computers and it the other truck will recognise it and run or would it be a waste of my time to even test it that way
It will run with a swapped ecm as long as it’s a 3406e.