I just got my first skid loader as I will be building a new home this summer. It's a 2001 Case 1845c w/ tracks, 7' bucket and forks. Is the Case dealer the best place for fluids and filters or should I be looking somewhere else? I don't mind paying a premium for premium products from the dealer, but I do mind paying a premium for rebranded products that I can buy for a lot less elsewhere. The machine is in good condition, but no maintenance records, so I'm inclined to just replace all the fluids so I know where I stand. I've checked them and it doesn't appear neglected, but it wasn't done last week either. I won't likely put more than a few hundred hours a year on the machine.
A few random thoughts in no particular order ........ 1. If there are no previous maintenance records you have to assume the worst case that it hasn't been maintained at all and a full change of all fluids/filters/breathers/adjustments (valve set maybe?), etc, etc, is in order. 2. I'd suggest getting hold of an operator/maintenance manual as a first step. I'm not sure if Case manuals include information regarding fluid specifications and/or filter change procedures/intervals, hopefully they do. 3. With the amount of fluids and parts you would likely have to buy to maintain every machine system it might well be worth your while to enquire from the Case dealer if they do any sort of special pricing for a "job lot". Certainly dealers for other manufacturers do that. 4. Regarding your question about fluid brands. So long as you buy good brands (not from Joe Blow's Gas & Groceries then) then paying for manufacturer's branded fluids is probably not necessary unless there is a special fluid requirement that only OEM-supplied fluid meets (no idea if this is the case here - back to the need for a manual again). However see above regarding special offers and I personally wouldn't hesitate to buy from a dealer if the price was competitive. 5. In trying to save money by NOT going to the dealer you can end up spending lots of $$ in fuel making circuits around town looking for all the materials you need, oil from one place, filters from another, etc, etc. If you class your time as money and don't like wasting fuel driving around consider the dealer as a "one stop shop" where you only have to make one trip and factor that into your cost calculations.
What engine does it have? The 390? Filters can be purchased online. I go Baldwin. Put your OEM filter number into this link http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/ and then search ebay for the filter you need. I've been doing it for years. Even the wifes daily driver has an industrial baldwin filter lol. Fluids cross over - tractor supply will likely have the hydraulic and chain box fluids you need (A LOT). Engine is likely any good 15w-40.
Thanks guys. Yup it has the Case/Cummins 4-390. I talked to the dealer last week about bringing it in and having them go through it and do all the work. They recommended a 2000 hour maintenance job - basically all fluids, filters, inspection, linkage adjustments, etc. Quoted cost for materials was $500 and labor was $900. Just got a manual in the mail yesterday. After reading it, it seems the maintenance on this machine is so damn simple, I just can't justify not doing it myself. I won't chase all over the place just to save $100 or something, but I might be able to save a few bucks buying the oil at Costco or Fleet farm. Manual calls for: Engine w/ filter:..................11 quarts Case IH #1 Engine Oil 10w-40 Hydraulic System w/filter:..8.5 gallons Case IH #1 Engine Oil 10w-30 (with 1.7 quarts of HTO additive) Chain Case:.......................10 gallons Case IH #1 Engine Oil 10w-30 Am I good with any name brand 10-30 and 10-40 oils or do I need to have a particular specification for this application. The only thing the manual makes note of, is the HTO additive in the hydraulic system. My manual specs capacities that are quite a bit different from what I found in this spec sheet here http://www.colemanequip.com/SpecSheets/1845C.pdf but the dealer should be able to clear that up for me. I'm guessing my manual is correct.
Fleet Farm will have the engine oil filter, engine oil, hydraulic oil. The tough one will be any hydraulic filters. You can probably look up on the FF website to see if they carry the filter, you'll need the filter number, it won't look up application. Then you won't be stuck searching for the one thing that you need to go to the dealer for anyway. Or just get it at the dealer if you need to go there for the HTO additive. Filterpros is a website I've ordered a lot of Donaldson and Baldwin filters from. Good selection and prices if you can wait a week or three. It's a diesel engine, so you want a diesel engine rated oil. Something like Rotella T, Mobil Delvac, FF branded oil is fine IMHO. 15w 40 is what I'd go with, unless you plan to start it in the winter without plugging it in. It does have a block heater right? If not, then put one in while you're draining and flushing the cooling system. Either use the exact original specification antifreeze, or one of the new OAT ones (Final Charge will be at FF). Save the coolant flush for spring so you can flush it as many times as needed with distilled/rain water until it comes clean after running a half hour.
I put a 4-390 (also known as a Cummins 4BT) in one of my trucks. I have built that engine and also have 2 6 cylinder versions of that engine with a lot of miles - can't hurt those things it seems. Cummins specs 15W-40 for almost all temperatures but 10W-40 is good too. Remember it just has to be diesel oil. I think Shell Rotella makes a 10W-40 if you want - if not just grab any diesel 15w-40 and you'll be good. Do you have the horizontal or vertical filter mount? I would follow the weight grade for the hydros plus the Case additive (critical). For the chain cases I just used SAE 40 because I wanted the thickest and least likely to leak. On your engine do a valve adjustment with the engine stone cold and you should be good for basically the life of the chassis. Coolant again just whatever is compatible. I am sure you will find the Rotella coolant to be compatible but check. Hydraulic filter I think Delmer is correct. That is not just any old filter. You can cross that to a baldwin or any other filter but make sure its crossed to a hydraulic filter and not just an oil filter because the hydraulic filters handle the extreme pressure - an engine oil filter cannot be used.
Perfect. Yes it has a block heater. I'll get the oil at Fleet Farm - one right by my house. I'll grab the filters and additive at the dealer, since I have some time tomorrow to work on all this. I've never done a valve adjustment, but I got a service manual. Looks pretty straight forward. Should I pick up valve cover gaskets when I'm at the dealer or are they reusable?
They are soft rubber gaskets and generally reusable if they are soft rubber when you take them off. On some engines they come off like potato chips. Just pop a valve cover before going to the dealer and you will know. Your engine will share a ton of parts, including valve cover gaskets, with 1989-1998 Dodge Ram Cummins diesel trucks. If your dealer is silly priced on anything - try a local parts store using a 1992 diesel Ram and you may find that its the same part. Usually Cummins guys go to Case to get parts because its cheaper than going to Cummins so you actually may not have price issues at the dealer.
I think the chain case calls for 10 quarts, not gallons. 5 quarts in each side. Just noticed your in St Paul. I'm over by Maple Grove. I've had my 1845c almost 20 years now. You got an awesome machine. They are simple machine and easy to work on. I do most of my own work.
If you can figure out a feeler gauge then adjusting the valves is fairly easy. It helps to understand that the two center pistons are at the same point, just 360 degrees from each other so one fires on the first revolution and the other fires next revolution. The front and back pistons are 180 from the center two, and alternate the same way. So if you find one cylinder with both valves tight, check the valve clearance on it's pair, then rotate the engine 180 until another pair of valves are tight ( it won't be the pair to the first one) and check it's pair. repeat, repeat and done.
Are there any substitutes for the HTO additive that doesn't cost $28 a quart from the Case dealer. Steve
Good call. Yup 10 quarts. I thought that seemed like quite a lot. My father in law has an 1840 and loves his too, so I decided to look for one or the other. Glad I'm done looking. Many folks sure are proud of these machines...and price them that way! There are fair deals to be had.
Early machines with planetary gears like mine don't require it (before JAF0067438). If you've got a later machines, its needed for the drive motors. Maybe someone else knows of a substitute.
What is the case spec for fluid requirements on the machine? The tractor fluid from Tractor Supply I used was 10W-30 and meets Case: Case HY-TRAN Ultra (MS-1209) Case HY-TRAN Plus (MS-1207) Case TCH Fluid MS-1210 (JIC 145) International Harvester HY-TRAN B-6 Case TFD Fluid (MS-1204, JIC 185, 144, 143, B-5) Case TFD II Fluid (MS-1205)Case PowerGard PTF Fluid (MS-1206). If your machine can use that requirement then you could run the same fluid I did ($32.99 per 5 gallon pail).
I don't know. My manual just says to use Case IH #1 Engine Oil 10w-30 in the gear box and hydro (with HTO additive). But I certainly like that price!
There's no way I'd put $30/pail oil in the hydrostatics of a skidsteer. I'm not familiar with the HTO additive, or if Hytran is recommended. I'd use Case IH #1 or leave it as is until an oil sample test shows otherwise. The chain case will be happy with anything that doesn't have mud in it.
For hydrostatic drives in my equipment at home I tend to run factory oil and filters. I run factory air filters in my Tractor cause the factory ones are reasonably priced and available at the dealer. For engine oil I run high quality synthetic and non factory filters.
Don't forget to buy an engine turning tool for that 4B.. It'll change your life.. & their only about 30 bucks.
I don't know of any HTO substitute. But if I remember correct, one quart does 5 gallons. I'm going off of memory on this so double-check..
Yes 1 quart does 5 gallons. Steve
HTO (Part# B17508) is only available from Case. We stock it because we service these models from time to time, We use a High Quality 10w30 Synthetic blend in the hydraulics and it works GREAT The engine oil Chevron Delo 15w40 has just been reformulated to comply with new EPA Emissions requirements WHAT? The OLD Delo kept the insides of the engines factory new up to 15,000 hours, The longest run one we have seen yet. (Don't know how much longer it would have gone if the operator had noticed the low oil pressure warning light was not lighting up at engine startup, wire separated from pressure sender, Pickup tube broke in two and fell down into oil pan, no oil pressure warning light so no-one knows anything until KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK)
Whats the best way to get all the hydraulic fluid out of these machines? I think draining the take only gets about half the oil out.
You can raise the loader arm and roll the bucket all the way back, then with engine off , lower the loader arm and tilt bucket forward and you'll get about 80% of the oil in the system. DON'T CRUSH YOURSELF IN THE PROCESS!!!!! If you have contamination you might have to do this 2 or 3 times until your oil is perfectly clean, changing filters each time. Hydrostatic drives LOVE clean oil. Bad oil KILLS em dead...